What’s the Borkage potential on a Turbo R?
Discussion
I was on my way home today, when I rode past a car dealer, practically right on my doorstep. He had a lot of the usual sort of bread and butter stuff on display, Fords / Vauxhalls / Renaults / the odd beemer and Merc. However this stuck out a bit.
A Turbo R. It made me look twice, I’ve had a look on their site and it shows up as a 6.8ltr Turbo R with 121 odd thousand on the clock. I’m not overly familiar with the borkage potential of one of these, would it be worth a punt? I think it was up for about 12500.
A Turbo R. It made me look twice, I’ve had a look on their site and it shows up as a 6.8ltr Turbo R with 121 odd thousand on the clock. I’m not overly familiar with the borkage potential of one of these, would it be worth a punt? I think it was up for about 12500.
JeffreyD said:
To answer the question "What's the borkage potential on a Turbo R"
It's immense.
It can surely be the only reason they are so cheap as they are incredible cars for the money if you can psycologically handle the potential for borkage!
That’s what I thought, however I think it’s worth a punt. Nothing ventured nothing gained. It will have to be a video viewing and no test drive, but that’s all part of the game at the moment I guess.It's immense.
It can surely be the only reason they are so cheap as they are incredible cars for the money if you can psycologically handle the potential for borkage!
snapper seven said:
I would check if the head gaskets have been replaced on this car. Late year Turbo Rs are prone to it and the cost will be £4-5k to fix.
Other things to look at:
Rust - wheel arches, around the windscreen/rear window, around the door handles, boot badge and the top of the door jambs below the window are the typical places.
Ride height - if the front looks low it is probably because the front springs have sagged over time.
Don't forget the suspension (active ride based on Citroen tech) and the brakes are hydraulic. If the car has been standing for a while (i.e. more than a week or two) then the rear suspension will sit low. This should rise and auto level once the hydraulic fluid has been pumped into the accumulators
After you have started it up (from cold) see how long it takes for the brake pressure light to extinguish - if more than 30 seconds then it may need attention. Obviously if the car has been recently started/moved then it probably won't take as long.
When checking underneath, don't be alarmed if there is some wetness - power steering racks are almost like a service item plus if the engine/gearbox sumps haven't been re-torqued at service then they can leak a little too. I've been told it is all about 'degrees of leakage'.
Also check that the electric seats work - the ECUs are known to fail. Few hundred quid to repair normally.
Oh and check it has the right tyres - can't see what wheels it has but make sure they are either the correct Avons or in some cases some people put Michelins on.
Some people say you need a couple of grand a year to keep on top of them. Seems like a lot of money but not when you compare how much people spend on new car depreciation.
Good luck!
Cheers
SS
That’s all very useful info. Thanks for that. A couple of grand a year, with the odd pop in the nuts isn’t a massive problem, given what you get. I don’t do many miles driving nowadays, so it will very much be a high days and holidays type of thing, with the odd few hundred mile round trip. Although tonight’s lockdown announcement might have just put the kibosh on it for now. But I’ve really got the idea in my head, and I love Bentleys, so I will have one, I’ve made up my mind.Other things to look at:
Rust - wheel arches, around the windscreen/rear window, around the door handles, boot badge and the top of the door jambs below the window are the typical places.
Ride height - if the front looks low it is probably because the front springs have sagged over time.
Don't forget the suspension (active ride based on Citroen tech) and the brakes are hydraulic. If the car has been standing for a while (i.e. more than a week or two) then the rear suspension will sit low. This should rise and auto level once the hydraulic fluid has been pumped into the accumulators
After you have started it up (from cold) see how long it takes for the brake pressure light to extinguish - if more than 30 seconds then it may need attention. Obviously if the car has been recently started/moved then it probably won't take as long.
When checking underneath, don't be alarmed if there is some wetness - power steering racks are almost like a service item plus if the engine/gearbox sumps haven't been re-torqued at service then they can leak a little too. I've been told it is all about 'degrees of leakage'.
Also check that the electric seats work - the ECUs are known to fail. Few hundred quid to repair normally.
Oh and check it has the right tyres - can't see what wheels it has but make sure they are either the correct Avons or in some cases some people put Michelins on.
Some people say you need a couple of grand a year to keep on top of them. Seems like a lot of money but not when you compare how much people spend on new car depreciation.
Good luck!
Cheers
SS
That’s it from the side showing how it appears to be sitting, and the wheels.
Edited by BrundanBianchi on Monday 4th January 20:49
fatbutt said:
Do you ever watch Hoovies videos on YouTube? He's had a turbo R in many. Also watch his mechanics videos on the same car which go into more detail, 'car wizard'.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4-iXtHp6BvQ
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9ab9OkgDex8
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4-iXtHp6BvQ
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9ab9OkgDex8
that’s pretty much what being into stupidly complicated and ( originally expensive ) super barges is all about though. It’s financially extremely stupid, but meh.snapper seven said:
Just to add that the car in the photo is a long wheelbase model. You can tell by the length of the rear window (if you are familiar enough with them).
Some people love LWB, others don't.
Since mine is for me to drive and not to chauffeur, I stick with SWB. At 5.3m it is already plenty long enough.
Cheers
SS
Oh and the ride height at the front doesn't look too bad. Certainly not hunched over the front wheels. When the springs sag, it completely changes the steering geometry and so they don't drive particularly nicely.
One other thing to mention are the spring cups. These are what the rear wheel springs sit in and are notorious for rusting. Paul Yorke of Everything Rolls-Royce does a good replacement for these.
There are are a couple of flies in the proverbial ointment about it at the moment, one of which is actually related to the dimensions of the car. I live in a large city apartment block, with allocated parking in a secure pen, to cut a long story short, having done some measurements there’s no way it will fit in one space, length wise or width wise. That kind of rules it out, on its own unfortunately. I’m not moving, because of a car, that’s going above and too far beyond.Some people love LWB, others don't.
Since mine is for me to drive and not to chauffeur, I stick with SWB. At 5.3m it is already plenty long enough.
Cheers
SS
Oh and the ride height at the front doesn't look too bad. Certainly not hunched over the front wheels. When the springs sag, it completely changes the steering geometry and so they don't drive particularly nicely.
One other thing to mention are the spring cups. These are what the rear wheel springs sit in and are notorious for rusting. Paul Yorke of Everything Rolls-Royce does a good replacement for these.
Gassing Station | Bentley & Rolls Royce | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff