Dual mass or solid flywheel
Discussion
I have a 2005 R53 and the clutch has started slipping. Seems mad not to change the flywheel while the box is off, what’s the general consensus on dual mass vs solid flywheels? It would be a valeo style conversion, not a high spec lightweight racing special. Any further clutch/flywheel advice would be appreciated, not particularly clued up on mini specific tech! The car is completely standard so no need to handle any more torque than the standard clutch
If just after saving some money on a DMF maybe use the Valeo, or just leave the OE in if no excess play? I fitted a GTT alloy SMF which still uses a standard pressure plate, it causes a touch more gear chatter but at least the engine doesn't have to drag that useless weight around. I'd do it again.
Gary C said:
If it's designed with a dual mass then it probably won't have a crankshaft damper and fitting a solid runs the risk of snapping the crank.
Pardon my ignorance, but just thought I would ask for more info, as it is something I would be considering if/when mine needs changing.Is there REALLY any significant danger to engine/drivetrain when going to a solid F/W.
I believe the crank pulley is damped, as I'm sure I read a few years ago of someone putting a bigger crank pulley on (to spin the supercharger faster), and that the new pulley wasn't damped and therefore a risk of crank/bearing failure. Note a risk, not actually heard of a failure I know of.
Loads of people have put on lightened flywheels, and I've not heard of an engine go pop. These are tough little units, the bottom end can easily take nearly 400bhp. When my clutch eventually goes, I'll be putting on a lighter, single-mass flywheel
Loads of people have put on lightened flywheels, and I've not heard of an engine go pop. These are tough little units, the bottom end can easily take nearly 400bhp. When my clutch eventually goes, I'll be putting on a lighter, single-mass flywheel
Gary C said:
If it's designed with a dual mass then it probably won't have a crankshaft damper and fitting a solid runs the risk of snapping the crank.
Not really the caseAll standard R53's have crank dampers, but they can fail. There are a couple of fluid/gel damper manufacturers for upgrades to this. The stories are not about solid flywheels causing issues, unless a sprung disc wasn't used, just the non-damped alternative crank pulleys. I think it was affecting the oil pumps which are immediately behind the pulley but not 100% sure as it was ages ago. I have an alloy flywheel, it adds a touch of gear noise but is lot lighter & ok.
The W10 Mini (n/a) engine has a solid flywheel and non damped crank pulley, basically the same bottom end just not a forged crank and no piston oilers iirc.
mon the fish said:
Loads of people have put on lightened flywheels, and I've not heard of an engine go pop. These are tough little units, the bottom end can easily take nearly 400bhp. When my clutch eventually goes, I'll be putting on a lighter, single-mass flywheel
Interesting news, I had heard that the bottom end is good for lots more and the move from DMF to L/weight solid F/W would certainly be potentially on the cards for me when the time comes.CarsOrBikes said:
Gary C said:
If it's designed with a dual mass then it probably won't have a crankshaft damper and fitting a solid runs the risk of snapping the crank.
Not really the caseAll standard R53's have crank dampers, but they can fail. There are a couple of fluid/gel damper manufacturers for upgrades to this. The stories are not about solid flywheels causing issues, unless a sprung disc wasn't used, just the non-damped alternative crank pulleys. I think it was affecting the oil pumps which are immediately behind the pulley but not 100% sure as it was ages ago. I have an alloy flywheel, it adds a touch of gear noise but is lot lighter & ok.
The W10 Mini (n/a) engine has a solid flywheel and non damped crank pulley, basically the same bottom end just not a forged crank and no piston oilers iirc.
NotBenny said:
just gone over 70k miles. Last couple times I have driven the car the clutch didn't slip, so maybe there is some life in it still!
Is the car leaking any oil? In my R53, I had the main seal and gearbox input shaft seal leaking, covering the clutch in oil. It would slip if you really loaded the car up (high gear, low revs or anywhere above 4krpm). Once you had it slip a couple of times it would stop for a few weeks and then start again...Worth a look under the car, if there's oil coming out of the little semi circle hole between the engine and the gearbox, likely you have a leak.
definitely worth an inspection for the oil leak.....mine has done 114k on first clutch, being used by learners, so more use than most cars, and still loads of life left in it.
BMW/Mini gave me a "quote" on what they thought mine would be worth on a "trade in" (£3.5k !!!!!!) owing to it's miles, and were very surprised on how good the clutch was seeing that it is a learner car.......I just told them I don't let them torture it.....still i am woried at the cost of a new one, cause one day it will need one.
good luck with yours OP
BMW/Mini gave me a "quote" on what they thought mine would be worth on a "trade in" (£3.5k !!!!!!) owing to it's miles, and were very surprised on how good the clutch was seeing that it is a learner car.......I just told them I don't let them torture it.....still i am woried at the cost of a new one, cause one day it will need one.
good luck with yours OP
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