Removing window motor - any advice 'blackspider'?
Discussion
I'm hoping that 'blackspider' may be able to give some advice here...
I am about to replace both fron door locks and the n/s electric window motor (unless it turns out to be a window regulator fault).
In order to get the locks out the door glass needs to be removed, and my Haynes manual says to adjust the window so that it is 20cm above the door thereby enabling access to the allen screws which hold the glass in place.
Unfortunately, because the electric window does not work I cannot lower it to get access to the allen screw. Is it possible to remove the window motor without removing the glass, so that I can either manually lower the window or fit the new motor and lower it electrically?
Car is a 2001 Mini One.
I am about to replace both fron door locks and the n/s electric window motor (unless it turns out to be a window regulator fault).
In order to get the locks out the door glass needs to be removed, and my Haynes manual says to adjust the window so that it is 20cm above the door thereby enabling access to the allen screws which hold the glass in place.
Unfortunately, because the electric window does not work I cannot lower it to get access to the allen screw. Is it possible to remove the window motor without removing the glass, so that I can either manually lower the window or fit the new motor and lower it electrically?
Car is a 2001 Mini One.
Thank you 'blackspider' for your full and detailed reply, it's made me much more confident in tackling the job.
I have now replaced both of the door locks, so the central locking is working fine. As you said, the 'Haynes' manual could be better, but at least the pictures are helpful. The 'Haynes' book says that to change the drivers door lock you need to remove the door handle, which I did after much struggling to reach the pesky Allen screws. During the re-fitting procedure I realised there was no need to take off the door handle at all!
Now,the window. Without your advice I would have been worried about using a hammer and screwdriver to undo the knurled wheels, but it worked fine. Having removed the regulator assembly I then wanted to remove the motor. This was tricky because the slider was stuck and I couldn't get to the single torx screw securing it to regulator bar. I had to use a little force to release the four torx screws securing the motor. I gently withdrew the motor and, just as you had warned, the capstan wheen came out with the motor and all the window wires spewed out! Doh!
I reconnected the motor to the power supply and found that it still works ok. I have concluded that for some reason the regulator was seized. Once the capstan and wires had spewed out I found that the sliders could be moved up and down. After much fiddling I've managed to refit the capstan and wires, and the regulator appears to be working ok, though I have yet to refit/connect the motor to see if it works properly. If it does work I'll try refitting it to the car.
I'll post the next installment when I've tested the motor/regulator.
Thanks again for your advice - and for taking the time to write such a detailed reply.
Andrew.
I have now replaced both of the door locks, so the central locking is working fine. As you said, the 'Haynes' manual could be better, but at least the pictures are helpful. The 'Haynes' book says that to change the drivers door lock you need to remove the door handle, which I did after much struggling to reach the pesky Allen screws. During the re-fitting procedure I realised there was no need to take off the door handle at all!
Now,the window. Without your advice I would have been worried about using a hammer and screwdriver to undo the knurled wheels, but it worked fine. Having removed the regulator assembly I then wanted to remove the motor. This was tricky because the slider was stuck and I couldn't get to the single torx screw securing it to regulator bar. I had to use a little force to release the four torx screws securing the motor. I gently withdrew the motor and, just as you had warned, the capstan wheen came out with the motor and all the window wires spewed out! Doh!
I reconnected the motor to the power supply and found that it still works ok. I have concluded that for some reason the regulator was seized. Once the capstan and wires had spewed out I found that the sliders could be moved up and down. After much fiddling I've managed to refit the capstan and wires, and the regulator appears to be working ok, though I have yet to refit/connect the motor to see if it works properly. If it does work I'll try refitting it to the car.
I'll post the next installment when I've tested the motor/regulator.
Thanks again for your advice - and for taking the time to write such a detailed reply.
Andrew.
Job done! 
. I have refitted the window regulator & motor which works fine, so now have all door locks and windows fully functioning.
It appears that there was no fault with the window after all - I think that it stopped working as a result of the fault in the door lock, possibly something to do with the fact that the window should drop a few mm when the door is opened.
Thanks once again for your advice 'blackspider', you are a top PH'er
. I have refitted the window regulator & motor which works fine, so now have all door locks and windows fully functioning. It appears that there was no fault with the window after all - I think that it stopped working as a result of the fault in the door lock, possibly something to do with the fact that the window should drop a few mm when the door is opened.
Thanks once again for your advice 'blackspider', you are a top PH'er
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