Moved from 110-100 stem safety advice please
Discussion
Hi All,
I was finding the reach a bit long on my B’Twin. Especially after riding my Trek with a shorter stem and slightly smaller frame.
I purchase a pack of spacers and they have the same diameter but are slightly thinner edge to edge.
I’ve tightened everything back up and left 5mm gap between the top of the tube and the top of the stem. The photos on the beige fabric show the same diameter but width difference. All seems line up nicely on the bike.
Thanks in advance.
P.S just a changed the chain as well and that was interesting using the quick links. Didn’t need the tool in the end but held the back brake and pedalled to get them to click. Bike rides much better now.
I was finding the reach a bit long on my B’Twin. Especially after riding my Trek with a shorter stem and slightly smaller frame.
I purchase a pack of spacers and they have the same diameter but are slightly thinner edge to edge.
I’ve tightened everything back up and left 5mm gap between the top of the tube and the top of the stem. The photos on the beige fabric show the same diameter but width difference. All seems line up nicely on the bike.
Thanks in advance.
P.S just a changed the chain as well and that was interesting using the quick links. Didn’t need the tool in the end but held the back brake and pedalled to get them to click. Bike rides much better now.
option click said:
er, the 5mm should be steerer above the top of the stem, not below it
...and what's that clamp immediately above the top bearing cover?
Thanks for the reply. ...and what's that clamp immediately above the top bearing cover?
Edited by option click on Wednesday 19th February 14:32
The third clamp from the top? I never touched it as wasn’t sure but looks like you’d use it when removing the fork/steerer tire
Thanks all. It’s appreciated and want to be sure. This is the photo from the original stem. I was aiming to get as close to this. Assume it wasn’t built text book by the supplier of these bikes?
As I was putting it back together I did wonder if it was correct from looking at the Trek (supplied by LBS)
I’ve now dropped it by removing a spacer and it sits so there is a 2-3mm gap between top of steerer and the top bolt of the stem lines up with the top of the steerer.
Safe to ride tomorrow?
As I was putting it back together I did wonder if it was correct from looking at the Trek (supplied by LBS)
I’ve now dropped it by removing a spacer and it sits so there is a 2-3mm gap between top of steerer and the top bolt of the stem lines up with the top of the steerer.
Safe to ride tomorrow?
Hi All,
Really do appreciate all the replies and can see split opinions. I’ve not ridden it since apart from down the road after fitting. I tried to find more information and see that it’s like this on a press bike if you go through the photos. I can’t seem to upload a photo at the moment.
https://road.cc/content/review/116333-btwin-triban...
Really do appreciate all the replies and can see split opinions. I’ve not ridden it since apart from down the road after fitting. I tried to find more information and see that it’s like this on a press bike if you go through the photos. I can’t seem to upload a photo at the moment.
https://road.cc/content/review/116333-btwin-triban...
Edited by Birdster on Monday 24th February 10:42
GOATever said:
Your Dad said:
It's designed and sold like that, see my previous post.
It’s a Triban 500, I’ve never seen one set up like that, it certainly isn’t “designed” like that. I have worked out what’s happened there though. The top cap that sits above the top headset bearing is not the correct one, it should be a 20 mm, that’s a 9 mm you have there. The seat post clamp ( which is what that clamp actually is ) is there in place of the proper top cap. It’s a bad bodge, but not ‘unsafe’. Personally I would either get a 20mm top cap, or cut the steerer down a bit.If you look closely the correct top cap is conical.
Edited by GOATever on Friday 21st February 16:57
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