Tips/critique for a new rider
Discussion
Hi all. Thought I'd start a thread as there are a few tips/answers I'm seeking with my riding and I'll also use this as a place to chronicle my rides for my own motivation/progress and to seek some friendly critique!
I bought a road bike a few years ago, went out a couple of times, never really took to it, and it has been in the garage since. However, with wanting to lose a bit of weight and improve fitness I thought I'd give it another go and, to my surprise, I'm actually quite enjoying it! Have quite a few nice routes around me which helps.
So, I have some questions if anyone is able to chip in with some advice:
- I notice in the bike photo thread a lot of you have your seat quite a bit higher than the handlebars. Is this an "advanced" thing or should I be doing this? For reference I am 5'11" and riding a bike with a 54cm frame. I can just about tiptoe when on the seat - should I be able to?
- Linked to the above, when I am pedalling, when my foot is in the lowest position my knee is still a bit bent - should my leg be pretty much straight?
- Is a 54cm frame about right for me? I am certain I would have researched before buying but looking now I think it may be a bit small? I bought second-hand as I didn't know if I would take to it (I didn't!) so perhaps I compromised a bit due to lack of choice...
- Should I stand up out of the saddle more often? On a hill I rarely stand up for the extra push, I go down the gears and stay seated. Is this the right thing to do as a beginner? In my head I think stood up = mountain biking.
- I use all my back gears (9 or so I think) but not my front one. It is on the larger cog and I've never been able to get it to change to the smaller one. This doesn't seem to affect me but of course I don't know what I'm missing here...
- Ummm, how do I stop my a**e from hurting so much? First few rides I suffered with my hands and a**e. I have bought better gloves (problem fixed) and better shorts (problem better but still far from ideal). The far and away limiting factor for my riding is my a**e! I actually look at fresh tarmac with as much joy as a downhill section! Is this normal? I've ordered a gel seat cover but think this might compromise my pedalling...
Think that will do for now. Apologies for the lack of correct language but I'm sure you all get my drift.
I'll post some photos/screenshots. Please feel free to comment with constructive criticism!
I bought a road bike a few years ago, went out a couple of times, never really took to it, and it has been in the garage since. However, with wanting to lose a bit of weight and improve fitness I thought I'd give it another go and, to my surprise, I'm actually quite enjoying it! Have quite a few nice routes around me which helps.
So, I have some questions if anyone is able to chip in with some advice:
- I notice in the bike photo thread a lot of you have your seat quite a bit higher than the handlebars. Is this an "advanced" thing or should I be doing this? For reference I am 5'11" and riding a bike with a 54cm frame. I can just about tiptoe when on the seat - should I be able to?
- Linked to the above, when I am pedalling, when my foot is in the lowest position my knee is still a bit bent - should my leg be pretty much straight?
- Is a 54cm frame about right for me? I am certain I would have researched before buying but looking now I think it may be a bit small? I bought second-hand as I didn't know if I would take to it (I didn't!) so perhaps I compromised a bit due to lack of choice...
- Should I stand up out of the saddle more often? On a hill I rarely stand up for the extra push, I go down the gears and stay seated. Is this the right thing to do as a beginner? In my head I think stood up = mountain biking.
- I use all my back gears (9 or so I think) but not my front one. It is on the larger cog and I've never been able to get it to change to the smaller one. This doesn't seem to affect me but of course I don't know what I'm missing here...
- Ummm, how do I stop my a**e from hurting so much? First few rides I suffered with my hands and a**e. I have bought better gloves (problem fixed) and better shorts (problem better but still far from ideal). The far and away limiting factor for my riding is my a**e! I actually look at fresh tarmac with as much joy as a downhill section! Is this normal? I've ordered a gel seat cover but think this might compromise my pedalling...
Think that will do for now. Apologies for the lack of correct language but I'm sure you all get my drift.
I'll post some photos/screenshots. Please feel free to comment with constructive criticism!
Thanks Mark.
I can go down Pulloxhill! I stay lightly on the brakes though. Couldn't bear the thought of going up it any time soon! Haven't ventured out Hexton/Pirton way though knowing the roads I bet there are some nice rides to be had.
When you say 54cm is on the extreme end I take it you mean the extreme small end?
I'll have a look into saddles. Are they universal fitment?
Cheers.
I can go down Pulloxhill! I stay lightly on the brakes though. Couldn't bear the thought of going up it any time soon! Haven't ventured out Hexton/Pirton way though knowing the roads I bet there are some nice rides to be had.
When you say 54cm is on the extreme end I take it you mean the extreme small end?
I'll have a look into saddles. Are they universal fitment?
Cheers.
defblade said:
WhisperingWasp said:
WhisperingWasp said:
- I notice in the bike photo thread a lot of you have your seat quite a bit higher than the handlebars. Is this an "advanced" thing or should I be doing this? For reference I am 5'11" and riding a bike with a 54cm frame. I can just about tiptoe when on the seat - should I be able to?
- Linked to the above, when I am pedalling, when my foot is in the lowest position my knee is still a bit bent - should my leg be pretty much straight?
A good starting point for saddle height is to put the ball of your foot across the pedal axle (where it should be when riding, generally), with the pedal at the bottom of it's stroke, your knee should be slightly bent. Then if you drop your heel downwards, your knee should lock. But it's only a starting point - have a play.
- Should I stand up out of the saddle more often? On a hill I rarely stand up for the extra push, I go down the gears and stay seated. Is this the right thing to do as a beginner? In my head I think stood up = mountain biking.
I like to spin up hills, I rarely get out of the saddle except for the very shortest steep bumps. Probably ought to do it a bit more, really... ...but then I'm not particularly worried about my average speed. It's up to you!
- I use all my back gears (9 or so I think) but not my front one. It is on the larger cog and I've never been able to get it to change to the smaller one. This doesn't seem to affect me but of course I don't know what I'm missing here...
That spinning up hills I mentioned is going to be a lot harder if you're only using the big ring. (And if that's the case, and given that other people have said some of the roads would be quite impressive in the big ring, you may be in danger here of pushing too hard through your knees to make it work... can lead to damage in the longer term).
Here's a vid about sorting front derailleurs.
- Ummm, how do I stop my a**e from hurting so much? First few rides I suffered with my hands and a**e. I have bought better gloves (problem fixed) and better shorts (problem better but still far from ideal). The far and away limiting factor for my riding is my a**e! I actually look at fresh tarmac with as much joy as a downhill section! Is this normal? I've ordered a gel seat cover but think this might compromise my pedalling...
As others have said, time/miles will help you get used to it. You can also spend forever looking for the "right" saddle if you want to try that game - I got quite lucky by finding one on the 3rd go that suits me! However, looking at your photo, your bike is pointing downwards, yet your saddle looks fairly level, which means it's probably a bit nose-up. Most people prefer to ride a little nose-down.. but not so much that you slip forward and have to brace against your hands. Again, not set in stone, but have a play. You'll find this can shift the pressure areas about quite a lot. Gel seat covers feel good to start with, but 10 minutes down the road, the wrong places are now taking the pressure, so I'd say only for very casual riding.
Gloves kinda mask too much weight going onto your hands - first get your saddle position sorted properly, then if you find you still need gloves, you might want to consider a shorter stem - it looks like your current stem is already as high up the steerer as it will go, so no room to raise it to reduce pressure. If the frame is only just small enough for you, it may well have a stem that's a little too long as it will (well, should) have been aimed at the middle of the size range.
Oh, and all those times and distances look pretty respectable for a noob, so just keep tweaking and riding, it'll all come together
- Linked to the above, when I am pedalling, when my foot is in the lowest position my knee is still a bit bent - should my leg be pretty much straight?
A good starting point for saddle height is to put the ball of your foot across the pedal axle (where it should be when riding, generally), with the pedal at the bottom of it's stroke, your knee should be slightly bent. Then if you drop your heel downwards, your knee should lock. But it's only a starting point - have a play.
- Should I stand up out of the saddle more often? On a hill I rarely stand up for the extra push, I go down the gears and stay seated. Is this the right thing to do as a beginner? In my head I think stood up = mountain biking.
I like to spin up hills, I rarely get out of the saddle except for the very shortest steep bumps. Probably ought to do it a bit more, really... ...but then I'm not particularly worried about my average speed. It's up to you!
- I use all my back gears (9 or so I think) but not my front one. It is on the larger cog and I've never been able to get it to change to the smaller one. This doesn't seem to affect me but of course I don't know what I'm missing here...
That spinning up hills I mentioned is going to be a lot harder if you're only using the big ring. (And if that's the case, and given that other people have said some of the roads would be quite impressive in the big ring, you may be in danger here of pushing too hard through your knees to make it work... can lead to damage in the longer term).
Here's a vid about sorting front derailleurs.
- Ummm, how do I stop my a**e from hurting so much? First few rides I suffered with my hands and a**e. I have bought better gloves (problem fixed) and better shorts (problem better but still far from ideal). The far and away limiting factor for my riding is my a**e! I actually look at fresh tarmac with as much joy as a downhill section! Is this normal? I've ordered a gel seat cover but think this might compromise my pedalling...
As others have said, time/miles will help you get used to it. You can also spend forever looking for the "right" saddle if you want to try that game - I got quite lucky by finding one on the 3rd go that suits me! However, looking at your photo, your bike is pointing downwards, yet your saddle looks fairly level, which means it's probably a bit nose-up. Most people prefer to ride a little nose-down.. but not so much that you slip forward and have to brace against your hands. Again, not set in stone, but have a play. You'll find this can shift the pressure areas about quite a lot. Gel seat covers feel good to start with, but 10 minutes down the road, the wrong places are now taking the pressure, so I'd say only for very casual riding.
Gloves kinda mask too much weight going onto your hands - first get your saddle position sorted properly, then if you find you still need gloves, you might want to consider a shorter stem - it looks like your current stem is already as high up the steerer as it will go, so no room to raise it to reduce pressure. If the frame is only just small enough for you, it may well have a stem that's a little too long as it will (well, should) have been aimed at the middle of the size range.
Oh, and all those times and distances look pretty respectable for a noob, so just keep tweaking and riding, it'll all come together
- I'll do that thing with the pedals, sounds straightforward.
- What does it mean to "spin" up hills?
- That video is very informative, I'll definitely have a play about one evening this week as the chain is definitely rubbing in some gears too. Didn't realise I started in "hard" mode with my gearing
- Thanks for the comment on the saddle position; didn't realise it was adjustable in that way so will have a play with that too.
- Not 100% followed the advice around the "stem" but I'll have a read again and get my head around it.
Cheers.
frisbee said:
54cm is fine. I'm 5'10", my road bike is a 56cm and my gravel bike is a 55cm. Bar drop will also depend on the bike, a race bike will have a larger bar drop, endurance and touring bikes may have none.
It takes a while for your sit bones to get used to cycling, padded cycling shorts and the right saddle help but ultimately it takes a while before your sit bones aren't tender for a few days after. Don't bother with a gel cover.
When you are starting out, ride more often and keep the rides shorter.
Thanks. I'll have a play with the set up of my bike (didn't realise they were so adjustable). Good to hear I'll get used to it. It certainly was better today, despite my longest ride, but I put that down to the new shorts.It takes a while for your sit bones to get used to cycling, padded cycling shorts and the right saddle help but ultimately it takes a while before your sit bones aren't tender for a few days after. Don't bother with a gel cover.
When you are starting out, ride more often and keep the rides shorter.
defblade said:
The stem is the bit that holds the handle bars onto the bike ... you can get longer and shorter ones, and so your bars get nearer or further away.
They also come at different angles, which moves the bars up and down, too, but don't go there yet
Understood now. The horizontal bit that is in line with the bike. Not the vertical bit that runs to the forks (which is what I was thinking it was). Thank you.They also come at different angles, which moves the bars up and down, too, but don't go there yet
Mark83 said:
54cm is fine but probably be a 56cm speaking generically. All frames are different. You can vary stem length and angle to make it fit better. Maybe invest in a bike fit?
Saddles are definitely not universal. It can be challenging to find the perfect fit. I like a Fizik Antares, out of their three main types, then you have different widths and materials.
I know your ride one loop very well, I got the local legend this week
It's a nice route around there isn't it. I'll have to knock you off your perch Saddles are definitely not universal. It can be challenging to find the perfect fit. I like a Fizik Antares, out of their three main types, then you have different widths and materials.
I know your ride one loop very well, I got the local legend this week
So I've tilted my seat forward a touch and raised it a bit ahead of a ride this evening. Will see if I notice a difference.
With regards to defblade's video on how to adjust the front derailleur I cannot move the mechanism at all. I presume it should move if I press on it? It seems completely seized. Seems I'm stuck on the "big ring" for the time being!
With regards to defblade's video on how to adjust the front derailleur I cannot move the mechanism at all. I presume it should move if I press on it? It seems completely seized. Seems I'm stuck on the "big ring" for the time being!
Thanks for all the comments re the front derailleur. I've not digested everything yet but will take my laptop out to the garage tomorrow and try some of the things mentioned 
Went out for a ride this evening...
...wow! The wind!
Genuinely taken aback by just how hard it was cycling into the wind. I take it this is a thing?! I was going along flat surfaces in first gear! It felt as hard as going up hills at times.
On a positive note my a**e hurt a bit less. Hands seemed worse though; quite a bit of pins n needles but I guess that is a consequence of raising the seat height.
I also replicated my first ride and did it ~4 minutes quicker which I was surprised with given my struggles into the wind. I must have had an equal benefit in different directions I guess.
Felt good to get out for a long ride on work night as I do struggle with motivation a bit so I am pleased with myself.
Went out for a ride this evening...
...wow! The wind!
Genuinely taken aback by just how hard it was cycling into the wind. I take it this is a thing?! I was going along flat surfaces in first gear! It felt as hard as going up hills at times.
On a positive note my a**e hurt a bit less. Hands seemed worse though; quite a bit of pins n needles but I guess that is a consequence of raising the seat height.
I also replicated my first ride and did it ~4 minutes quicker which I was surprised with given my struggles into the wind. I must have had an equal benefit in different directions I guess.
Felt good to get out for a long ride on work night as I do struggle with motivation a bit so I am pleased with myself.
Edited by WhisperingWasp on Tuesday 10th May 21:09
Julietbravo said:
You are both correct, I think it is better described as 'unweighting on the upstroke' and you will never deliver massive amounts of power on the upstroke.
Not caught up on everything (still at a work thing) but just to clarify I cycle with normal pedals and trainers on, not the clip-in shoes. So guess I definitely only benefit from the downstroke. defblade said:
It's a thing. Wait until you're having to pedal just to keep moving downhill
And also yes - the relative positions of all your bike parts do play off each other, so raising your saddle means you have slightly more forward lean to get the bars, so more weight on your hands. It is best to get your saddle position relative to the pedals right first, then sort out where you want your bars to be after that.
In the meantime, there are 3 or 4 or 5 positions available for your hands:
On the drops (which splits into right down on the last bit parallel-ish to the ground, or a bit more up on the curve, behind the brake levers) - mainly for down hill... or reducing your profile to the headwind
On the hoods - standard riding position, holding around the "horns" of the brake levers, often a finger or two curled around the brake lever.
On the tops/flats - mainly for going uphill - poor access to brakes, slightly twitchier steering, opens your chest out for breathing and gets hips/legs at a better angle for hard work.
And, slightly controversially, on the shoulders of the bars - the curve as they come from the hoods to the tops. Not really the done thing, but I do find it's good for a change, especially for my dodgy wrist.
Change between them preferably before you start to feel tingles in each position, but bear in mind the ability to safely control and brake - so the extreme positions on the tops or very bottoms may not be suitable all the time.
As a note on the downhill/headwind, a lot of people prefer to get their body low by carrying on holding the hoods, but then lower their forearms until they are level with the road so creating a tuck.
Handlebar width and shape also play a part in comfort (I've got narrow shoulders for my height, and like a much narrower bar than XL frames come with, for example), as does the exact position and angle of the brake levers because you spend so much time on the hoods... but that then gets into messing with the bar tape to change and is getting on for intermediate level set-up
Cheers for this.And also yes - the relative positions of all your bike parts do play off each other, so raising your saddle means you have slightly more forward lean to get the bars, so more weight on your hands. It is best to get your saddle position relative to the pedals right first, then sort out where you want your bars to be after that.
In the meantime, there are 3 or 4 or 5 positions available for your hands:
On the drops (which splits into right down on the last bit parallel-ish to the ground, or a bit more up on the curve, behind the brake levers) - mainly for down hill... or reducing your profile to the headwind
On the hoods - standard riding position, holding around the "horns" of the brake levers, often a finger or two curled around the brake lever.
On the tops/flats - mainly for going uphill - poor access to brakes, slightly twitchier steering, opens your chest out for breathing and gets hips/legs at a better angle for hard work.
And, slightly controversially, on the shoulders of the bars - the curve as they come from the hoods to the tops. Not really the done thing, but I do find it's good for a change, especially for my dodgy wrist.
Change between them preferably before you start to feel tingles in each position, but bear in mind the ability to safely control and brake - so the extreme positions on the tops or very bottoms may not be suitable all the time.
As a note on the downhill/headwind, a lot of people prefer to get their body low by carrying on holding the hoods, but then lower their forearms until they are level with the road so creating a tuck.
Handlebar width and shape also play a part in comfort (I've got narrow shoulders for my height, and like a much narrower bar than XL frames come with, for example), as does the exact position and angle of the brake levers because you spend so much time on the hoods... but that then gets into messing with the bar tape to change and is getting on for intermediate level set-up
I use all of them hand positions at various times. I find the drops probably most comfortable but only really associate using them when going at higher speed - is this right?
Julietbravo said:
Just to add to the bit about spinning up hills. In the 1970's, bikes all had big rings - the front ones - and cyclists tended to cycle with a slower cadence pushing harder for the same forward speed. Then a couple of things happened at the same time; Lance Armstrong recovered from cancer and didn't have the strength to push a big gear and so instead upped his cadence to 100-110 rpm and use his aerobic capacity when everyone else was cycling at 70 rpm. Manufacturers also developed smaller cranksets. In the 1980s you couldn't get smaller than 42 with Campag, and 52-42 was the traditional size for the chain rings. Now 53-39 or 34 is normal allowing cyclists to rely on aerobic function and spin at a higher cadence.
Each pedal stroke should be push down, pull back, pull up and push forward using all the muscles in the leg. You can practice this using only one leg at a time and try and keep it as smooth as possible to try and get way from just stomping down.
If you spin up a hill until you 'blow' - reach your limit aerobically - then change down a couple of gears and stand on the pedals with a reduced cadence until you get your breath back you will find you speed up hills increases.
The main thing is you are getting out and about which is brilliant; set yourself a mini timed section (via Strava?) with an incline and see what works for you. We are all built differently.
Thanks for this - very interesting.Each pedal stroke should be push down, pull back, pull up and push forward using all the muscles in the leg. You can practice this using only one leg at a time and try and keep it as smooth as possible to try and get way from just stomping down.
If you spin up a hill until you 'blow' - reach your limit aerobically - then change down a couple of gears and stand on the pedals with a reduced cadence until you get your breath back you will find you speed up hills increases.
The main thing is you are getting out and about which is brilliant; set yourself a mini timed section (via Strava?) with an incline and see what works for you. We are all built differently.
I have no idea what my rpm is to be honest (don't think I really need to at this stage?). But I do tend to find that I cycle at a fairly steady rate with the gears then influencing my speed. This feels to me like the right way of doing things.
tertius said:
I think the real purpose of clipless pedals is to keep your foot on the pedal its not to actually pull up on it. But they are way better, so definitely consider a set as you keep riding.
Gotcha. Definitely on my mind as something to progress to down the line.Had a load of gear delivered today so I'm already starting to spend money!
I find holding the drops to be quite a comfortable pedalling position actually, it seems to work for me. I went the length of one of the villages today in a single gear (few off the smallest I think) on the drops and let like I had a really good flow.
Agree though that given I spend most the time on the hoods they are most important to get right. Today I had zero pins n needles and no real hand ache so perhaps my body is just getting used to the positioning/pressures. A**e continues to bug me less but still room for improvement in that, er, department!
Agree though that given I spend most the time on the hoods they are most important to get right. Today I had zero pins n needles and no real hand ache so perhaps my body is just getting used to the positioning/pressures. A**e continues to bug me less but still room for improvement in that, er, department!
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