Is a Stage 1 Remap safe for Track Days? Golf R to M135i
Discussion
Hi Everyone,
Once the crisis is over I am looking to swap my 2015 Mk7 Golf R for a 2014ish M135i. The Golf R just isn’t for me, It’s a manual which aren’t as tuneable as the DSG’s unless you upgrade the clutch, I've also heard the turbos are a bit of weak point. Looking to do a straight swap with a dealer for an Auto M135i.
I tend to track the car 3/4 times a year. The last time I did this in the Golf R it dropped a whole load of oil under the engine which the garage could never find the source of where it came from, so I’ve kind of lost confidence in it.
Would ideally like a M140i but just can’t stretch to £20k at the moment, the Golf is worth about £15k. Found a few nice M135i’s Pre LCI in budget. A stage 1 map is around 390BHP which brings it above the M140i level.
Is Stage 1 Generally safe for track days? I do drive the car hard on track and wondering if there’s any other precautions I should take?
Thanks
cj1
Once the crisis is over I am looking to swap my 2015 Mk7 Golf R for a 2014ish M135i. The Golf R just isn’t for me, It’s a manual which aren’t as tuneable as the DSG’s unless you upgrade the clutch, I've also heard the turbos are a bit of weak point. Looking to do a straight swap with a dealer for an Auto M135i.
I tend to track the car 3/4 times a year. The last time I did this in the Golf R it dropped a whole load of oil under the engine which the garage could never find the source of where it came from, so I’ve kind of lost confidence in it.
Would ideally like a M140i but just can’t stretch to £20k at the moment, the Golf is worth about £15k. Found a few nice M135i’s Pre LCI in budget. A stage 1 map is around 390BHP which brings it above the M140i level.
Is Stage 1 Generally safe for track days? I do drive the car hard on track and wondering if there’s any other precautions I should take?
Thanks
cj1
nickfrog said:
I agree with the comments. A remap is the last thing you want. I tracked my LCI and the list looks like this for occasional track use:
Pads, RS29 or XP8
Fluid, RBF600
Tyres (the Supersports will chew their front outside shoulders). AD08 if you're happy to slightly change from OE size.
Front M3 LCAs or top mounts to give you front neg camber or it will understeer a lot.
Thanks, Will take a note of those. Pads, RS29 or XP8
Fluid, RBF600
Tyres (the Supersports will chew their front outside shoulders). AD08 if you're happy to slightly change from OE size.
Front M3 LCAs or top mounts to give you front neg camber or it will understeer a lot.
The car I am looking at is a Pre LCI 63 Plate.
https://www.inchcape.co.uk/cars/used-cars/used-car...
Appears to have Bridgestone Run-flats so will be chainring those as soon as possible.
Want to keep its drivability on road, as I do about 15000 miles a year. I had a Cooper S before which I went OTT with track modifications and completely ruined it on the road. Performance Engine mount would literally rattle the sun visors on idle, screeching brakes etc...
Would probably look at getting some Eibach Springs as Ive heard the 135/140 are a pit prone to rolling about.
PGNSagaris said:
Forget a map for now.
Good pads and racing fluid.
But, most importantly...Get a baffled sump and make sure the oil is topped up to max.
Friend of mine took his 135i on track in late Jan and this happened.
Bloody hell... you’re scaring me now! .... what does the baffled sump do? How much do they cost?Good pads and racing fluid.
But, most importantly...Get a baffled sump and make sure the oil is topped up to max.
Friend of mine took his 135i on track in late Jan and this happened.
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