Any 'shoestring' sailors?
Discussion
We all know the annecdotes; that owning a boat is like standing in a shower and ripping up £20 notes, that the best days in boat ownership are the day you buy and the day you sell and of course if it flies, f***s or floats rent it by the hour...
But I grew up boating on a budget sailing small cruisers with my dad which used a small outboard to get in and out of the harbour, were kept on trot moorings and maintained through your own hard graft (often on a beach between tides).
Having moved to Roker, Sunderland last summer I've been increasingly keen to get back on the water and to introduce my step kids and partner to sailing. We've all enjoyed paddle boarding but I think a small sailing cruiser is what we need.
So yesterday we bought this Hurley 22. It's a little neglected and wants quite a bit of work; though I think I can prioritise and have her back on the water for the start of the season. Pushed along by a small outboard in a well, the sails look it great nick, the interior is cramped but 'charming' and the deck looks a right mess - but that's just cosmetic with previous coats of paint flaking.
Plan is to get her cleaned up, antifouled and the rigging thoroughly checked/replaced as needed, service the engine then get her the 35 miles or so down the coast to home. Mooring yet to be arranged!!!
Anyone else boating on a shoestring?
But I grew up boating on a budget sailing small cruisers with my dad which used a small outboard to get in and out of the harbour, were kept on trot moorings and maintained through your own hard graft (often on a beach between tides).
Having moved to Roker, Sunderland last summer I've been increasingly keen to get back on the water and to introduce my step kids and partner to sailing. We've all enjoyed paddle boarding but I think a small sailing cruiser is what we need.
So yesterday we bought this Hurley 22. It's a little neglected and wants quite a bit of work; though I think I can prioritise and have her back on the water for the start of the season. Pushed along by a small outboard in a well, the sails look it great nick, the interior is cramped but 'charming' and the deck looks a right mess - but that's just cosmetic with previous coats of paint flaking.
Plan is to get her cleaned up, antifouled and the rigging thoroughly checked/replaced as needed, service the engine then get her the 35 miles or so down the coast to home. Mooring yet to be arranged!!!
Anyone else boating on a shoestring?
Krikkit said:
Would love to see some more pics and updates as you go along, sounds like a great project.
Yes I will do that. Only really took a fairly brief look if I'm honest and bought her 'as is'. I know there's work needed but the first thing will be get up next weekend and clear her out and also try and take a look at the rudder tube which is a known point of failure on these boats - my concern is how I'd get to it if it needs doing as access is via the crawl space under the cockpit and I'm a bit on the large side for that!Arnold Cunningham said:
I've always really liked the Hurley 22 - I think they're really pretty for a small yacht.
Me too! My first sailing experiences that I really remember were on a Hurley 20 which I loved. The 22 is just that little bigger though to be practical and has a much better displacement ratio
J3JCV said:
Beautiful example! Spurs me on with ours!
Thankyou all for the replies and advise, I've pondered the rudder tube issue and I think a nicely installed access hatch might be the way forward - will make future inspections easy too.
I've been looking for a bargain do-er-upper the past few months; tentatively looked at a Hurley 24/70 but the one I looked at was very rough and the inboard engine a little questionable. I also think that on a shoestring an outboard is probably the right answer - worst case it's a few hundred for a decent replacement.
I then decided I wanted something a little more performance orientated and started looking at Sonata's, which lead to viewing this very boat:
https://julianeveritt.com/2016/08/02/natural-magic...
Which is sadly in need of too much TLC for me and also probably a bit too exciting/hard work with a family
So I returned to Hurley, but ultimately I think I prefer the 22 to the (admittedly far more capacious and comfortable down below) 24/70.
I'd fully accept that an inboard is ultimately better, but at this boat size and on a budget the outboard definitely makes sense - but having used outboards on my Dads boats growing up I know that they are not great for passage making under engine or manoeuvrability.
JS - the hurley does indeed have a well, it's in what might otherwise be considered a lazerette and while conveniently out of the way of the cockpit is unfortunately also aft of the rudder.
The boat has come equipped with a 4hp 4T, which might prove to be a little optimistic, though my dad sailed a Leisure 22 with a 4hp for many years and while it's a lighter boat it's considerable superstructure meant it suffered in windy conditions under motor.
JS - the hurley does indeed have a well, it's in what might otherwise be considered a lazerette and while conveniently out of the way of the cockpit is unfortunately also aft of the rudder.
The boat has come equipped with a 4hp 4T, which might prove to be a little optimistic, though my dad sailed a Leisure 22 with a 4hp for many years and while it's a lighter boat it's considerable superstructure meant it suffered in windy conditions under motor.
Agree Centaurs are a decent boat, more of a floating caravan type but they don't sail badly all considered in my experience. I had them on my radar too, as you can get a decent one these days for £5-6k (still far more than I paid for the Hurley) but I decided I didn't want anything quite that big as firstly running costs are step up from a 22(ish) foot boat and secondly if the family don't take to it I'll be sailing single handed. Though hopefully they will love it!
As there's a bit of interest I thought I'd add a bit more detail and keep a running tally of what it takes to get on the water cost wise for this first season.
We don't really have a fixed budget in mind, but we certainly don't have deep pockets... we're getting married in October so it will be an expensive year!
Firstly, I paid £1400 for the boat - this included the suzuki 4hp outboard and a nearly new inflatable with 2.5hp outboard (both so far unseen) as well as everything in the boat. There's a lot of junk, including out of date packets of rice and copies of Viz... but there's also a Standard Horizon Chart Plotter, Simrad Autohelm, ancient depth sounder and VHF, Roller headsail, good main and other as yet to be uncovered sails. Basically we're not sure what have but there's plenty to sort out.
Then came my bill from the marina yard it's currently at - £160 for the next month. This is where I believe you need to be canny on a budget; nice marina's and yards are a luxury and can be extremely expensive! A launch from there will be £135.
We joined our local Yacht Club, £250 for a family membership. I think this is good value as the club offers moorings, storage etc at a reasonable cost along with all the other usual benefits; dinghy sailing with courses for the kids, social, advice etc... Fingers crossed we can get a mooring there this year (allocated on a points system, of which we have 0!) as otherwise it will be the marina for us this year which will be great but blow our budget.
The guy I bought from has loads of paint he bought with good intentions, so I will see what I end up with before buying any. One job we do want to look at urgently though is the rudder tube which is one of a few known weak spots on these boats - it's accessible just about via the void beneath the cockpit floor but I'm not exactly slight and I'm not sure taking an angle grinder and other tools into such a confined space is a great idea, so I will be cutting an inspection hatch into the back of the cockpit sole and in anticipation have bought a suitable marine hatch for £25.
Insurance will be £80ish, but I have yet to arrange cover as I need the sail number which I need to get back to the boat to look up.
So total so far, including the insurance is £2,050
Here are few more picture from Sunday, the deck looks awful! but it's just flaking paint it's very solid even with my 18stone crashing about. The tabernacle should clean up fine too
As there's a bit of interest I thought I'd add a bit more detail and keep a running tally of what it takes to get on the water cost wise for this first season.
We don't really have a fixed budget in mind, but we certainly don't have deep pockets... we're getting married in October so it will be an expensive year!
Firstly, I paid £1400 for the boat - this included the suzuki 4hp outboard and a nearly new inflatable with 2.5hp outboard (both so far unseen) as well as everything in the boat. There's a lot of junk, including out of date packets of rice and copies of Viz... but there's also a Standard Horizon Chart Plotter, Simrad Autohelm, ancient depth sounder and VHF, Roller headsail, good main and other as yet to be uncovered sails. Basically we're not sure what have but there's plenty to sort out.
Then came my bill from the marina yard it's currently at - £160 for the next month. This is where I believe you need to be canny on a budget; nice marina's and yards are a luxury and can be extremely expensive! A launch from there will be £135.
We joined our local Yacht Club, £250 for a family membership. I think this is good value as the club offers moorings, storage etc at a reasonable cost along with all the other usual benefits; dinghy sailing with courses for the kids, social, advice etc... Fingers crossed we can get a mooring there this year (allocated on a points system, of which we have 0!) as otherwise it will be the marina for us this year which will be great but blow our budget.
The guy I bought from has loads of paint he bought with good intentions, so I will see what I end up with before buying any. One job we do want to look at urgently though is the rudder tube which is one of a few known weak spots on these boats - it's accessible just about via the void beneath the cockpit floor but I'm not exactly slight and I'm not sure taking an angle grinder and other tools into such a confined space is a great idea, so I will be cutting an inspection hatch into the back of the cockpit sole and in anticipation have bought a suitable marine hatch for £25.
Insurance will be £80ish, but I have yet to arrange cover as I need the sail number which I need to get back to the boat to look up.
So total so far, including the insurance is £2,050
Here are few more picture from Sunday, the deck looks awful! but it's just flaking paint it's very solid even with my 18stone crashing about. The tabernacle should clean up fine too
Lovely looking Centaur JC3V, what Westerly replaced her? I'm a fan of the Westerly brand.
Small update, we spent last Sunday afternoon just clearing and assessing; binned absolutely loads of junk and got the cabin looking better already. Dropped the roller headsail which was a challenge as the halyard was wrapped around the forestay - will replace the halyards anyway.
Low point was discovering that the 'good' mainsail is actually ripped badly along the foot and part way up the luff. Fortunately there is a spare though it is a bit baggy, another item on the longer term list.
Also got under the cockpit and confirmed the rudder tube is the mild steel original - to be replaced!
A few general pictures from that day
Junk!
More junk!
Tidied forecabin
Knackered mainsail...
First chance of a beer on board!
Small update, we spent last Sunday afternoon just clearing and assessing; binned absolutely loads of junk and got the cabin looking better already. Dropped the roller headsail which was a challenge as the halyard was wrapped around the forestay - will replace the halyards anyway.
Low point was discovering that the 'good' mainsail is actually ripped badly along the foot and part way up the luff. Fortunately there is a spare though it is a bit baggy, another item on the longer term list.
Also got under the cockpit and confirmed the rudder tube is the mild steel original - to be replaced!
A few general pictures from that day
Junk!
More junk!
Tidied forecabin
Knackered mainsail...
First chance of a beer on board!
Grabbed an early finish last night so headed up with my brother. Set him to work sanding the bottom while I started looking at the seacocks...
Seacocks are something of a necessary evil in my view, holes in a hull are far from ideal but sometimes unavoidable so making sure that seacocks are sound and serviceable is a priority.
I'd given a bit of thought to this and had in mind replacing them all with Trudesign composite type. Plastic might seem counterintuitive but these are just as strong as metal and without the corrosion or electrolytic concerns.
First hit was the sink drain, I knew it was pretty rough so go it ground out (managed to nip the gelgoat but I can fix that easily) and it pulled straight out along with the backing plate...
Somehow it still closes though!
Moving to the heads, I started grinding away the paint and realised this one was different...
Yep, both heads valves are the blakes type, very solid and not needing replacement as they can be reground and greased
Cockpit is the ball valve type but, they're in good condition so I'll leave them for this year. Undecided whether to replace the sink drain or simply glass it up and do away with a sink (put a work top in and then just use a washing up bowl).
Finally, had a play with the chart/galley table; slides out to the galley, then another section slides out from underneath. I love stuff like this about the boat;
Seacocks are something of a necessary evil in my view, holes in a hull are far from ideal but sometimes unavoidable so making sure that seacocks are sound and serviceable is a priority.
I'd given a bit of thought to this and had in mind replacing them all with Trudesign composite type. Plastic might seem counterintuitive but these are just as strong as metal and without the corrosion or electrolytic concerns.
First hit was the sink drain, I knew it was pretty rough so go it ground out (managed to nip the gelgoat but I can fix that easily) and it pulled straight out along with the backing plate...
Somehow it still closes though!
Moving to the heads, I started grinding away the paint and realised this one was different...
Yep, both heads valves are the blakes type, very solid and not needing replacement as they can be reground and greased
Cockpit is the ball valve type but, they're in good condition so I'll leave them for this year. Undecided whether to replace the sink drain or simply glass it up and do away with a sink (put a work top in and then just use a washing up bowl).
Finally, had a play with the chart/galley table; slides out to the galley, then another section slides out from underneath. I love stuff like this about the boat;
hidetheelephants said:
pequod said:
Well done, don't forget to drop the keels and check/replace the bolts. Many folk ignore this as it's a PITA (and potentially expensive) but necessary IMHO on old bilge keel yachts.
Old kit left behind by PO's are sometimes quite useful/interesting/valuable but is usually just a lot of junk that you have to dispose of!
Keep us up to date with progress?
His is a fin keel if the pictures are right?Old kit left behind by PO's are sometimes quite useful/interesting/valuable but is usually just a lot of junk that you have to dispose of!
Keep us up to date with progress?
J3JCV said:
I bought a Westerly Conway, last of the Laurent Giles Westerly models. 36' but still bilge keels.
issues you have with bigger boats are things like having 10 seacocks to service /change... I'm a huge fan of Trudesign, I fitted some 10 years ago to a boat and they are still 100% fine now, maintenance free!
Have fun with the 22, such a fantastic boat as its 100% a large yacht shrunk to a manageable size.
Conway is a fantastic boat!!issues you have with bigger boats are things like having 10 seacocks to service /change... I'm a huge fan of Trudesign, I fitted some 10 years ago to a boat and they are still 100% fine now, maintenance free!
Have fun with the 22, such a fantastic boat as its 100% a large yacht shrunk to a manageable size.
Good to hear the positives about trudesign, if I put any new seacocks or skin fittings in that’s definitely the way I’ll go.
And you’re right about the h22, they just feel right. Nice and deep, incredibly heavily ballasted.
We spent last Saturday at the boat, stayed over and had an hour or so Sunday morning before we had to be home for the kids. What became clear is how much I have under estimated how long everything is going to take!
I looked at dropping the rudder - got stumped as I simply couldn't get it the pintle out of the gudgeon...
Rather than waste time I decided to research later and crack on with sanding the bottom.... hard, relentless graft!
I got her rubbed down enough below the waterline I reckon, revealing more osmosis than I'd like but still not to concerned and it's a job for the six months out of the water next winter. Also managed to have a first pass down the port topside.
Meanwhile, my partner cracked on inside painting lockers and bilges. Obviously they look a million times better now, but sleeping onboard was aromatic! Luckily after working until it was dark and then sinking a few pints we slept well.
I had Monday booked off work, so headed back up with a plan to properly tackle the rudder this time. The whole point of dropping the rudder is to replace the galvanised rudder tube which passes through the void at the back of the cockpit and typically rots just above where it meets the hull, so instead of wasting time unnecessarily I started by properly checking it's condition.
Many owners have successfully cut out and replaced the tube utilising the crawl space beneath the cockpit. But I didn't think it a particularly great idea to work with a grinder under there and more to the point I'm not sure I would fit anyway - so instead I put my big boy pants on and started cutting a hole at the rear of my cockpit....
No going back now!
And the tube in question, no doubt it needs replacing.
Equipped with the freshly researched knowledge that it was likely someone had glassed over a pair of bolts for the gudgeon on my skeg, I tentatively took to it with my grinder.
Bolts located they came undo surprisingly easy and I soon had the rudder down, confirming I would need to dig a hole to release it fully.
At this point the weather was coming in just as forecast so the priority was getting the hatch in place to make good the hole in my cockpit sole.
With all my 18V batteries dead, my hands aching and the wind howling I called it a day - cutting out the tube is a job for next time.
I have tomorrow (Friday) off so will spend a long weekend up there, I also have the benefit of my brother helping out Saturday and Sunday, but even then there's a lot still to do and taking into account times between planned coats of paint I have accepted we won't be in the water this month and have revised our deadline to the end of April. Most importantly this is supposed to be enjoyable, so no need for too much pressure.
Costs incurred so far are stacking up too, but as proposed I will be open and honest as to what this 'cheap' boat ends up costing. I have had a quick reckon up and I think we are looking as follows;
Costs particular to the boat;
- Purchase prices (incl. dinghy and outboards) - £1400
- Storage at Amble Marina (1month) - £160
- Cockpit hatch - £25
- Paint
- International One Up Undercoat/Primer - £55
- International Toplac Plus (x3) - £75
- International Interdeck (x2) - £50
- Hempel Bilge paint - £21
- Hempel Underwater Primer - £46
- Hempel Antifouling - £39
- Replacement sink seacock (decided to keep it after all) - £70 (including marine ply backer)
- Halyards, 21m x4 - 8mm, Roller line, 18m - 6mm - £150
- Boat hook - £20
- Flag pole - £31
- Replacement of rudder tube (316 Stainless tube, washers, nuts and bushes) - £100
- GRP Repair materials/gel coat filler - £50
- New curtain material - £20
- Sundries; sandpaper, small tools, nuts, bolts, screws, glue etc... - £200
Running Total - £2493
I'm happy with that, hopefully not too many huge costs to come - I'll have another month at £160, a launch at £150 and my summer mooring will be around £150. I think once finished the boat will be worth what we've put into her all day long.
Other costs to get on the water at the moment...
- Yacht club membership - £250
- Life jackets for the family (auto harness crewsavers with lights) - £375
- Sailing suit for me - £130
- Sailing kit for kids - £200
- Sailing jacket for mrs (she has also inherited a decent suit which came with the boat) - £100
I looked at dropping the rudder - got stumped as I simply couldn't get it the pintle out of the gudgeon...
Rather than waste time I decided to research later and crack on with sanding the bottom.... hard, relentless graft!
I got her rubbed down enough below the waterline I reckon, revealing more osmosis than I'd like but still not to concerned and it's a job for the six months out of the water next winter. Also managed to have a first pass down the port topside.
Meanwhile, my partner cracked on inside painting lockers and bilges. Obviously they look a million times better now, but sleeping onboard was aromatic! Luckily after working until it was dark and then sinking a few pints we slept well.
I had Monday booked off work, so headed back up with a plan to properly tackle the rudder this time. The whole point of dropping the rudder is to replace the galvanised rudder tube which passes through the void at the back of the cockpit and typically rots just above where it meets the hull, so instead of wasting time unnecessarily I started by properly checking it's condition.
Many owners have successfully cut out and replaced the tube utilising the crawl space beneath the cockpit. But I didn't think it a particularly great idea to work with a grinder under there and more to the point I'm not sure I would fit anyway - so instead I put my big boy pants on and started cutting a hole at the rear of my cockpit....
No going back now!
And the tube in question, no doubt it needs replacing.
Equipped with the freshly researched knowledge that it was likely someone had glassed over a pair of bolts for the gudgeon on my skeg, I tentatively took to it with my grinder.
Bolts located they came undo surprisingly easy and I soon had the rudder down, confirming I would need to dig a hole to release it fully.
At this point the weather was coming in just as forecast so the priority was getting the hatch in place to make good the hole in my cockpit sole.
With all my 18V batteries dead, my hands aching and the wind howling I called it a day - cutting out the tube is a job for next time.
I have tomorrow (Friday) off so will spend a long weekend up there, I also have the benefit of my brother helping out Saturday and Sunday, but even then there's a lot still to do and taking into account times between planned coats of paint I have accepted we won't be in the water this month and have revised our deadline to the end of April. Most importantly this is supposed to be enjoyable, so no need for too much pressure.
Costs incurred so far are stacking up too, but as proposed I will be open and honest as to what this 'cheap' boat ends up costing. I have had a quick reckon up and I think we are looking as follows;
Costs particular to the boat;
- Purchase prices (incl. dinghy and outboards) - £1400
- Storage at Amble Marina (1month) - £160
- Cockpit hatch - £25
- Paint
- International One Up Undercoat/Primer - £55
- International Toplac Plus (x3) - £75
- International Interdeck (x2) - £50
- Hempel Bilge paint - £21
- Hempel Underwater Primer - £46
- Hempel Antifouling - £39
- Replacement sink seacock (decided to keep it after all) - £70 (including marine ply backer)
- Halyards, 21m x4 - 8mm, Roller line, 18m - 6mm - £150
- Boat hook - £20
- Flag pole - £31
- Replacement of rudder tube (316 Stainless tube, washers, nuts and bushes) - £100
- GRP Repair materials/gel coat filler - £50
- New curtain material - £20
- Sundries; sandpaper, small tools, nuts, bolts, screws, glue etc... - £200
Running Total - £2493
I'm happy with that, hopefully not too many huge costs to come - I'll have another month at £160, a launch at £150 and my summer mooring will be around £150. I think once finished the boat will be worth what we've put into her all day long.
Other costs to get on the water at the moment...
- Yacht club membership - £250
- Life jackets for the family (auto harness crewsavers with lights) - £375
- Sailing suit for me - £130
- Sailing kit for kids - £200
- Sailing jacket for mrs (she has also inherited a decent suit which came with the boat) - £100
Edited by D1bram on Thursday 17th March 13:04
Edited by D1bram on Thursday 17th March 13:05
pequod said:
Jaguar steve said:
D1bram said:
What became clear is how much I have under estimated how long everything is going to take!
You can absolutely guarantee that the particular tool you need to do a job with will either be left at home or disappear over the side with a splash just when you need it more than once as well.
It's the law.
The process of restoring a boat/car/property which is worth the effort is not to be taken lightly but, when completed, is something to be proud of and, despite the cost in time and materials, will always be a part of one's life and to be enjoyed.
Went to B&Q earlier for some screws and bought a cheap orbital sander which I think will speed things up a little.
Edited by D1bram on Thursday 17th March 18:53
Apologies for the lack of updates, but happily this has been partly down to spending much of my free time on the bost.
Since I last updated I spent one long weekend and one short working on her.
Firstly, the orbital sander was a revelation! The hull is now sanded properly, which still took some time. Below the water line has been primed and had a couple of coats of antifouling. Logic would usually say work top to bottom, but it’s partly down to timing around paint and also partly thinking that prioritising anything below the water line means she can at least go in!
The eagle eyed will probably note the rudder is still off… progress has been made though. Firstly, the old tube is out; this was no mean feat. I’d equate it to every awkward nut I’ve ever had on a car added together and multiplied by 15.
I angle ground, junior hacksawed, hammered and swore until all that was left was a small section where it passed through the hull.
So my brother and I went off for a sandwich, a beer and to peruse the very old school but incredibly useful local hardware store. Ending up with a really simple hacksaw (basically a blade with a plastic handle which clamped around it) for about £3 which enabled me to cut a slither out and then pull it clear with a set of molegrips
Since I last updated I spent one long weekend and one short working on her.
Firstly, the orbital sander was a revelation! The hull is now sanded properly, which still took some time. Below the water line has been primed and had a couple of coats of antifouling. Logic would usually say work top to bottom, but it’s partly down to timing around paint and also partly thinking that prioritising anything below the water line means she can at least go in!
The eagle eyed will probably note the rudder is still off… progress has been made though. Firstly, the old tube is out; this was no mean feat. I’d equate it to every awkward nut I’ve ever had on a car added together and multiplied by 15.
I angle ground, junior hacksawed, hammered and swore until all that was left was a small section where it passed through the hull.
So my brother and I went off for a sandwich, a beer and to peruse the very old school but incredibly useful local hardware store. Ending up with a really simple hacksaw (basically a blade with a plastic handle which clamped around it) for about £3 which enabled me to cut a slither out and then pull it clear with a set of molegrips
Meanwhile my stainless tube, nuts, washers and nylon bushes (not completely convinced by these yet) arrived.
There was an issue though… I had forgotten to spec a length on the threads and it only came with about 20mm at each end, fine for the top but not sufficient to fix each side of the hull at the bottom.
I decided though to have a test fit (after shaping the gel coat a touch with a flap disc) before I invested any time in modifying this tube.
Fit looks good to me!
So I’ve had a local engineering workshop extend the thread, and also cut a flat into one of the washers so it fits the recess in the hull behind the skeg.
In preparation I cleaned out the inside of the hull and laminated a pad of fibre glass to overlay and flatten up the profile so the inner washer will lay nice and flat.
It’s my first time working with fibreglass, I watched plenty of how to videos and read around the subject. Settling on woven roving and polyester resin I built my patch up by overlaying alternately cut layers of cloth, with a half piece every other layer to give it a wedge shape (compensating for the shape on the inside of the hull). I quite enjoyed it.
Aside from this, there’s been an ongoing process of sanding, cleaning and more sanding. She is definitely emerging nicely.
Bec, my other half is progressively painting out lockers and sections of red cabin, I’m leaving her to that but it’s certainly feeling better down below.
A mate who live local to the boat popped over for a coffee and remembering he used to be a joiner I got him busy fixing the loose section of toenail :-)
A quick rub down and the rubbing strake / toe rail is showing some real promise
We’re really enjoying the process though and making the most of our weekends away, eating well and enjoying our new ‘local’ of an evening
Plan at the moment is for a 22nd April launch.
There was an issue though… I had forgotten to spec a length on the threads and it only came with about 20mm at each end, fine for the top but not sufficient to fix each side of the hull at the bottom.
I decided though to have a test fit (after shaping the gel coat a touch with a flap disc) before I invested any time in modifying this tube.
Fit looks good to me!
So I’ve had a local engineering workshop extend the thread, and also cut a flat into one of the washers so it fits the recess in the hull behind the skeg.
In preparation I cleaned out the inside of the hull and laminated a pad of fibre glass to overlay and flatten up the profile so the inner washer will lay nice and flat.
It’s my first time working with fibreglass, I watched plenty of how to videos and read around the subject. Settling on woven roving and polyester resin I built my patch up by overlaying alternately cut layers of cloth, with a half piece every other layer to give it a wedge shape (compensating for the shape on the inside of the hull). I quite enjoyed it.
Aside from this, there’s been an ongoing process of sanding, cleaning and more sanding. She is definitely emerging nicely.
Bec, my other half is progressively painting out lockers and sections of red cabin, I’m leaving her to that but it’s certainly feeling better down below.
A mate who live local to the boat popped over for a coffee and remembering he used to be a joiner I got him busy fixing the loose section of toenail :-)
A quick rub down and the rubbing strake / toe rail is showing some real promise
We’re really enjoying the process though and making the most of our weekends away, eating well and enjoying our new ‘local’ of an evening
Plan at the moment is for a 22nd April launch.
Bill said:
+1 Looks great, wish I had the time (and courage TBH! )
I honestly don't have the time... I am busy at work, with the family and have stacks of jobs needed around the house. However I've decided for a short while I will prioritise this (not over the family of course and I still need to go to work!) and I'm putting a lot of things on hold. )As for the courage, I find I procrastinate, plan and research for ages, often going in circles. If in doubt, just make a start; most jobs can be tackled in more than a couple of ways I find
Arnold Cunningham said:
D1bram said:
Meanwhile my ... nuts...
It’s my first time working with fibreglass, I watched plenty of how to videos and read around the subject. Settling on woven roving and polyester resin I
Don't underestimate chopped strand. It's great under compression, better than woven, and will mould to fit almost any shape.It’s my first time working with fibreglass, I watched plenty of how to videos and read around the subject. Settling on woven roving and polyester resin I
It's my "go to" for general repair work like this. Whereas woven doesn't always want to conform to a shape very well - which then means you start looking at biaxial instead, which is great, but also not what you want on a surface that flexes.
So in your repair, I'd have chopped standed it on the bottom layers to fill all the gaps and level things out. And then "maybe" a bit of woven on top - with potentially a chopped border just to keep all the edges tidy.
Not a criticism of your work - just saying don't over think it.
Arnold Cunningham said:
D1bram - what's your plan for the topsides (which to the uninitiated is not the top, it's the sides, the red bit)?
If you can be bothered with all the effort - International Perfection is excellent. Very hard wearing and will last a long time. But a bit more effort to get a perfect mirror finish at the beginning because the paint is so damn hard.
I'm going with a couple of coats of International One Up, followed by International Toplac Plus. I did originally intend to use Toplac, but it seems to be difficult to get a hold of now... the main advantage of the 'plus' seems to be no requirement for tipping (following a roller application with a second roller to smooth it out for those who might not know).If you can be bothered with all the effort - International Perfection is excellent. Very hard wearing and will last a long time. But a bit more effort to get a perfect mirror finish at the beginning because the paint is so damn hard.
As a system it seems about the right compromise of cost/difficulty/finish for me. I did consider the perfection briefly though.
Decks will be a coat of One Up follow by Interdeck.
That's a pretty cool boat!
to be completely honest, if she looks good from the harbourside when on the mooring then I will be happy! Obviously I will be doing the best I can, but I wouldn't be dissatisfied if I end up with results similar to your red boat.
I've already bought the toplac plus, and as this is still a shoestring project there's definitely no budget to change now.
Any tips on painting at lower temperatures? As it looks like I'll have around 10degC
to be completely honest, if she looks good from the harbourside when on the mooring then I will be happy! Obviously I will be doing the best I can, but I wouldn't be dissatisfied if I end up with results similar to your red boat.
I've already bought the toplac plus, and as this is still a shoestring project there's definitely no budget to change now.
Any tips on painting at lower temperatures? As it looks like I'll have around 10degC
Gassing Station | Boats, Planes & Trains | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff