Drive belt 'creep' on a SBC
Discussion
So just sanity checking my thoughts here.... amongst the myriad of problems I've had with the car - the alternator has been a major issue. I've now got a new 120 amp single wire alternator (and wire to the battery), bracket, and new belts and pulleys for the water pump, alternator and crank having binned the old gilmer belts.
I've taken the car out to day to test this (and a few other bits and pieces) and when I got home to inspect the new belts and saw that they are creeping 'back':
So given that the water pump and the crank are fixed reference points - this surely can only be a problem caused by alignment or tension of the alternator? Any thoughts?
I've taken the car out to day to test this (and a few other bits and pieces) and when I got home to inspect the new belts and saw that they are creeping 'back':
So given that the water pump and the crank are fixed reference points - this surely can only be a problem caused by alignment or tension of the alternator? Any thoughts?
Max_Torque said:
Beats me why you'd want to drive an alternator, or any other FEAD device that doesn't absorb lots of power with a toothed belt? Fit a multirib polyV belt and it's job jobbed.....
Toothed belts will ALWAYS walk, unless they are tightly constrained on their pulleys, because unless the centre of pressure is perfectly in the middle, even in dynamic load conditions, the belt with shuffle along the pulley.
Hindsight and all that! I was advised to go with this configuration by the guys who supplied the alternator and bracket, principally as it is lots stronger than the old Gilmer belts.... Having ponied up another $250 for the pulleys and belts I'd prefer NOT to scrap the lot for Poly V Toothed belts will ALWAYS walk, unless they are tightly constrained on their pulleys, because unless the centre of pressure is perfectly in the middle, even in dynamic load conditions, the belt with shuffle along the pulley.
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