NAD C298 Class D power amplifier impressions
Discussion
So I have been on a bit of a journey with my hifi system over the past year. For many years, I have used a Musical Fidelity A3.2 integrated power amp, with matching CD player, running PMC TB2+ speakers and XB1 subwoofer.
I should say that I am not an Audiophile, as such. I love music, and much of the time listen on a Sonos. But I do have a hifi system in the living room (not a dedicated space), and spend time listening there. Especially in winter, with a fire going etc.
The amp did not really have what it took to drive the sub, so that was removed. It also never really sounded amazing with the PMCs, which are very clean and neutral, and always sounded thin (they are monitors, to be fair). The PMCs are now my AV front speakers with a matching centre speaker, and they are excellent at this task.
Last year, I bought a pair of Sonus Faber Cremona M floorstanders, and they were a huge and mostly welcome change (and gorgeous to look at!). But the sound with the MF amp was now very warm, over-correcting the effect from the PMCs - and too warm for electronic music, to which I listen a lot (but far from exclusively - I'm pretty omnivorous with music).
A NAD C658 streaming DAC was added, and there was a definite improvement when streaming Tidal in hifi quality. It also has DIRAC room correction, which went a long way towards sorting out some issues.
However, the system sounded a little flat, with little attack, and was not great at lower volumes - lacking body, finesse and some airiness. It was very good at acoustic music and classical, but quite poor at electronic, rock or anything that seems to require a lot of dynamic range coupled with fast paced changes in electronic instruments. And the bass was poor. To the point that it had to be boosted through DIRAC.
I investigated re-capping my amp, and auditioned a few other decent class AB amplifiers. New amps improved the situation, but still gave a warm sound that was lovey on occasion, but not for me much of the time. I also tried a friend's Class D amp (NAD M22), but lost too much warmth from the music, and acoustic/classical seemed thin and soulless.
Last week, I took possession of a NAD C298 power amplifier. This is the lowest priced of NADs amps that uses a module by some people called Purifi, designed to, well, bring class D technology on. I listened to it, and initial impressions were "oh my God". I have since run it in for a few days, and had a proper listen last night. And for comparison, has a friend and neighbour come over with his McIntosh MC 152 integrated amplifier. We ran the Mac both with my preamp in DAC only mode, and the amp in bypass mode i.e. two different preamp stages.
It didn't matter. Apart from some rare acoustic tracks, where "woodiness" of instruments really comes through better on the McIntosh, the NAD absolutely walked it. I think that this thing is a complete game-changer.
Now, this may be because my speakers are naturally quite warm sounding, and not studio monitors, so could probably use some toning down. But apart from this, the C298 just dealt with almost everything better than the McIntosh. And an order of magnitude better than my Musical Fidelity.
It's bass power is astonishing, meaning that music at low volumes is full, rich and fun. The bass is of high quality though - nuanced and textured and all that other stuff that hifi articles like to discuss.
The mid-range was where things really came through though. It has attack, speed and a "forward" sound that makes electronic music an absolute joy. One of my test tracks, Above and Beyond's "Counting Down the Days" was tight, fun, yet low bass was there and fast. Another test track, "Gratitude" by the same people, recorded live, saw the amp deliver the background chatter of the crowd to a degree not heard on the other amps, yet with all of the tight, bouncy musicality that the track needs.
And the treble is similarly accomplished. It is airy, wide and nuanced, without any sibilance or harshness.
The story was much the same on other genres. The Mac was a bit better on real, live acoustic stuff - like Eric Clapton's "Old Love", where Chuck Lavelle's amazing piano solo was just a bit more "in the room" on the class AB amp. But that was pretty much it. The rest of the track was simply better separated and staged by the NAD.
The MC152 also initially had a better sound stage, making the music more "3D". But then I ran DIRAC on the DAC, and it just evened that up on the C298, completely, without losing any of the good stuff. I shall play with this more, to set up the different listening points I use in the room. Interestingly, DIRAC is much more effective with the Class D amp than it was with my AB Musical Fidelity.
Long story short, this is not a cheap amplifier. But in my mind, for what it does, it is extraordinary value. Yes, it's ugly, looks cheap and should probably be hidden away. The build quality is fine, but compared to the beautiful McIntosh, or even my old MF, it feels a little flimsy, especially at the back with it's cheapish speaker terminals. But that's it. I don't go in for ridiculously priced cabling, so this was all on standard RCA cables and old, lower budget QED speaker cable.
If anyone is looking for a new power amplifier, I highly, highly recommend you try this thing out. In my humble, non-expert estimation, it is a complete revelation.
As an interesting footnote, I have had a NAD M33 here, which is their version of the electronics in my setup, but beautifully packaged in a one box solution (I oredered them together for comparison, thiking I would likely keep the M33 and return the C298 and sell my streamer). It is very pretty. But for some reason, it sounds more sterile, and the cost is just too much for a lovely piece of design, versus that manufacturer's own C658/C298 combination which, whilst ugly as sin, is cheaper, and sounds better (with my speakers, anyway). It has this morning been returned.
Pics, as who doesn't like photos?
NAD gear looking ugly, especially above the pretty CD player. Don't be fooled - it is highly effective.
Luckily, these are pretty, especially compared to the utilitarian PMCs they replaced.
Love the "lute string" grilles. Useless for protection, but they seem to shimmer when you play music. Drivers are visible even with them on. And who doesn't like leather front panels? You have to hand it to the Italians on this one...
I should say that I am not an Audiophile, as such. I love music, and much of the time listen on a Sonos. But I do have a hifi system in the living room (not a dedicated space), and spend time listening there. Especially in winter, with a fire going etc.
The amp did not really have what it took to drive the sub, so that was removed. It also never really sounded amazing with the PMCs, which are very clean and neutral, and always sounded thin (they are monitors, to be fair). The PMCs are now my AV front speakers with a matching centre speaker, and they are excellent at this task.
Last year, I bought a pair of Sonus Faber Cremona M floorstanders, and they were a huge and mostly welcome change (and gorgeous to look at!). But the sound with the MF amp was now very warm, over-correcting the effect from the PMCs - and too warm for electronic music, to which I listen a lot (but far from exclusively - I'm pretty omnivorous with music).
A NAD C658 streaming DAC was added, and there was a definite improvement when streaming Tidal in hifi quality. It also has DIRAC room correction, which went a long way towards sorting out some issues.
However, the system sounded a little flat, with little attack, and was not great at lower volumes - lacking body, finesse and some airiness. It was very good at acoustic music and classical, but quite poor at electronic, rock or anything that seems to require a lot of dynamic range coupled with fast paced changes in electronic instruments. And the bass was poor. To the point that it had to be boosted through DIRAC.
I investigated re-capping my amp, and auditioned a few other decent class AB amplifiers. New amps improved the situation, but still gave a warm sound that was lovey on occasion, but not for me much of the time. I also tried a friend's Class D amp (NAD M22), but lost too much warmth from the music, and acoustic/classical seemed thin and soulless.
Last week, I took possession of a NAD C298 power amplifier. This is the lowest priced of NADs amps that uses a module by some people called Purifi, designed to, well, bring class D technology on. I listened to it, and initial impressions were "oh my God". I have since run it in for a few days, and had a proper listen last night. And for comparison, has a friend and neighbour come over with his McIntosh MC 152 integrated amplifier. We ran the Mac both with my preamp in DAC only mode, and the amp in bypass mode i.e. two different preamp stages.
It didn't matter. Apart from some rare acoustic tracks, where "woodiness" of instruments really comes through better on the McIntosh, the NAD absolutely walked it. I think that this thing is a complete game-changer.
Now, this may be because my speakers are naturally quite warm sounding, and not studio monitors, so could probably use some toning down. But apart from this, the C298 just dealt with almost everything better than the McIntosh. And an order of magnitude better than my Musical Fidelity.
It's bass power is astonishing, meaning that music at low volumes is full, rich and fun. The bass is of high quality though - nuanced and textured and all that other stuff that hifi articles like to discuss.
The mid-range was where things really came through though. It has attack, speed and a "forward" sound that makes electronic music an absolute joy. One of my test tracks, Above and Beyond's "Counting Down the Days" was tight, fun, yet low bass was there and fast. Another test track, "Gratitude" by the same people, recorded live, saw the amp deliver the background chatter of the crowd to a degree not heard on the other amps, yet with all of the tight, bouncy musicality that the track needs.
And the treble is similarly accomplished. It is airy, wide and nuanced, without any sibilance or harshness.
The story was much the same on other genres. The Mac was a bit better on real, live acoustic stuff - like Eric Clapton's "Old Love", where Chuck Lavelle's amazing piano solo was just a bit more "in the room" on the class AB amp. But that was pretty much it. The rest of the track was simply better separated and staged by the NAD.
The MC152 also initially had a better sound stage, making the music more "3D". But then I ran DIRAC on the DAC, and it just evened that up on the C298, completely, without losing any of the good stuff. I shall play with this more, to set up the different listening points I use in the room. Interestingly, DIRAC is much more effective with the Class D amp than it was with my AB Musical Fidelity.
Long story short, this is not a cheap amplifier. But in my mind, for what it does, it is extraordinary value. Yes, it's ugly, looks cheap and should probably be hidden away. The build quality is fine, but compared to the beautiful McIntosh, or even my old MF, it feels a little flimsy, especially at the back with it's cheapish speaker terminals. But that's it. I don't go in for ridiculously priced cabling, so this was all on standard RCA cables and old, lower budget QED speaker cable.
If anyone is looking for a new power amplifier, I highly, highly recommend you try this thing out. In my humble, non-expert estimation, it is a complete revelation.
As an interesting footnote, I have had a NAD M33 here, which is their version of the electronics in my setup, but beautifully packaged in a one box solution (I oredered them together for comparison, thiking I would likely keep the M33 and return the C298 and sell my streamer). It is very pretty. But for some reason, it sounds more sterile, and the cost is just too much for a lovely piece of design, versus that manufacturer's own C658/C298 combination which, whilst ugly as sin, is cheaper, and sounds better (with my speakers, anyway). It has this morning been returned.
Pics, as who doesn't like photos?
NAD gear looking ugly, especially above the pretty CD player. Don't be fooled - it is highly effective.
Luckily, these are pretty, especially compared to the utilitarian PMCs they replaced.
Love the "lute string" grilles. Useless for protection, but they seem to shimmer when you play music. Drivers are visible even with them on. And who doesn't like leather front panels? You have to hand it to the Italians on this one...
Edited by Harry Flashman on Friday 3rd March 09:56
Thanks. Lady Flash is a big fan of the way the speakers look, regarding them as ornaments. Which works well for me!
I think speakers are generally getting better looking, but there are some challenging looking ones out there. These days I'm noticing a return to the glittery metal trim of the 1980s, which doesn't suit our housem this is a living room, not a dedicated room.
I was looking for a set of Naim Ovator S600s, when I found the Sonus Fabers. It's been an expensive choice though, as "required" an amp change to get them singing the way I like...
One thing about the NAD gear is that it's not so much ugly to me now, as barely there. It sort of fades into the background in the rack, which on reflection is no bad thing.
Been playing a lot of music over that last week! Best use of system? Playing musical statues with the kids to the theme song to Ghostbusters and Madonna's "La Isla Bonita"
Pretty sure this isn't what NAD and Sonus Faber envisaged.
I think speakers are generally getting better looking, but there are some challenging looking ones out there. These days I'm noticing a return to the glittery metal trim of the 1980s, which doesn't suit our housem this is a living room, not a dedicated room.
I was looking for a set of Naim Ovator S600s, when I found the Sonus Fabers. It's been an expensive choice though, as "required" an amp change to get them singing the way I like...
One thing about the NAD gear is that it's not so much ugly to me now, as barely there. It sort of fades into the background in the rack, which on reflection is no bad thing.
Been playing a lot of music over that last week! Best use of system? Playing musical statues with the kids to the theme song to Ghostbusters and Madonna's "La Isla Bonita"
Pretty sure this isn't what NAD and Sonus Faber envisaged.Glad you liked my mini review! And the C658 streaming DAC is superb. So easy to use, and so good. It does have a bug, refusing to drive a sub from its outputs, a known issue.
As I listen to quite a lot of electronic music, and am a bit of a basshead, I've been trialling one of my SVS SB1000Pro subs with the system. Using the amplifier's line out, and the sub's own, very comprehensive, features for settings and integration.
It's great. Drum n Bass never sounded so good. Trance music comes alive. And on other stuff, the sub fills out the bottom end nicely, noticeable on stuff like Dire Straits, for example. The effect is most noticeable on electronic music and hip hop, which is exactly where I wanted more bass.
The big difference is proper bass at low volumes. This is how I listen to most music in the evenings, as kids are asleep upstairs. At high volumes, it gets overwhelming - but SVS' incredible subwoofer app allows you to simply turn the sub down, or off, easily from your chair. And setup was a breeze with the app also doing crossover, room gain correction, EQ, rolloff and all that jazz.
So I have an SVS 3000 Micro on its way, to make sure I get my low frequency fix. Goes deep enough for an proper effect, but should be faster and tighter than the 1000, which is better suited to AV duties.
Here's my wife's patience being tried, but this will all be tidied up when the new sub arrives, which will sit against the high white skirting boards, blend a bit better and look prettier than this one!
As I listen to quite a lot of electronic music, and am a bit of a basshead, I've been trialling one of my SVS SB1000Pro subs with the system. Using the amplifier's line out, and the sub's own, very comprehensive, features for settings and integration.
It's great. Drum n Bass never sounded so good. Trance music comes alive. And on other stuff, the sub fills out the bottom end nicely, noticeable on stuff like Dire Straits, for example. The effect is most noticeable on electronic music and hip hop, which is exactly where I wanted more bass.
The big difference is proper bass at low volumes. This is how I listen to most music in the evenings, as kids are asleep upstairs. At high volumes, it gets overwhelming - but SVS' incredible subwoofer app allows you to simply turn the sub down, or off, easily from your chair. And setup was a breeze with the app also doing crossover, room gain correction, EQ, rolloff and all that jazz.
So I have an SVS 3000 Micro on its way, to make sure I get my low frequency fix. Goes deep enough for an proper effect, but should be faster and tighter than the 1000, which is better suited to AV duties.
Here's my wife's patience being tried, but this will all be tidied up when the new sub arrives, which will sit against the high white skirting boards, blend a bit better and look prettier than this one!
Edited by Harry Flashman on Wednesday 22 March 20:45
I have twin subs in the AV room.
Not really necessary for the hifi, as it's set up for a defined listening position so I have set the sub up to optimise that position. Lots of crawling around on the floor was happening last night...
Wife uses our Sonos, so only I use the hifi, from my favourite chair! So one sub works fine as the best sound quality doesn't have to operate over a large area. If I do use it for general background music, can just switch the sub off from SVS' (utterly fantastic) app.
It's an SVS 3000 Micro. Half the price of a KEF KC62, and with the app, made this a great buy for what I needed. It's not cheap, but it is very, very good. Way better for music than the 12 inch SB1000 Pros I use with the TV. And much more powerful - I have had to dial it down quite a bit.
What I wanted was proper bass at low volumes - the C298 and Sonus Fabers can deliver big bass, but only really when you get the volume up. The sub's own 800W amp means you can dial in great, unstressed bass at a low volumes, and simply attenuate it when playing music louder.
Not really necessary for the hifi, as it's set up for a defined listening position so I have set the sub up to optimise that position. Lots of crawling around on the floor was happening last night...
Wife uses our Sonos, so only I use the hifi, from my favourite chair! So one sub works fine as the best sound quality doesn't have to operate over a large area. If I do use it for general background music, can just switch the sub off from SVS' (utterly fantastic) app.
It's an SVS 3000 Micro. Half the price of a KEF KC62, and with the app, made this a great buy for what I needed. It's not cheap, but it is very, very good. Way better for music than the 12 inch SB1000 Pros I use with the TV. And much more powerful - I have had to dial it down quite a bit.
What I wanted was proper bass at low volumes - the C298 and Sonus Fabers can deliver big bass, but only really when you get the volume up. The sub's own 800W amp means you can dial in great, unstressed bass at a low volumes, and simply attenuate it when playing music louder.
Edited by Harry Flashman on Friday 24th March 10:01
NDA said:
Hmmm, maybe one day. My speakers go down to 30Hz as they are, but I should try one at some point.
I've found it's a power thing. My speakers also go down to 30ahz, but bass takes a lot of power, so effectively outsourcing it to a separate amp has improved the volume and control a great deal.Your speakers can control a KEF KC62 sub from the app. Time to go shopping!!
So would I. But I think the range is the key here. Apparently the KC62 goes down to 17 Hz (according to What Hi-fi's tests, which is slightly mental, as my SVS only goes down to 23, and that feels deep).
The LS60 goes down to 26hz. My Sonus Fabers only get down to 32Hz, so your system will already do sub bass a lot better than mine - I needed a sub, you may not...
Try it, return if it isn't transformative!
The LS60 goes down to 26hz. My Sonus Fabers only get down to 32Hz, so your system will already do sub bass a lot better than mine - I needed a sub, you may not...
Try it, return if it isn't transformative!
I have spent hours moving and setting this sub up and am finally there - seamless integration. But SVS' app helps with this enormously as you can tweak, and frankly mess with the sub on each track from the listening chair. For some music, I just have it switched off.
But I love electronic music, and on this, the sub has been transformative.
The best is that it isn't overpowering. It allows the rest of the system to do its thing.
But I love electronic music, and on this, the sub has been transformative.
The best is that it isn't overpowering. It allows the rest of the system to do its thing.
Hi Adam, the toe in was for correct imaging at my listening point, but I have since toed them out a bit. No change to bass. That said, I will try anything possible that helpful folks advise!
Part of the reason for the sub is, being a living room, I have little choice over where they have to go, and even using DIRAC couldn't really give me the clean bass I desired. Sub was an easy fix. And, I'm a basshead
The sub is nice, but honestly, the amp, and subject of this thread, was the game changer.
Part of the reason for the sub is, being a living room, I have little choice over where they have to go, and even using DIRAC couldn't really give me the clean bass I desired. Sub was an easy fix. And, I'm a basshead
The sub is nice, but honestly, the amp, and subject of this thread, was the game changer.
I tend to agree on the headroom point, as I don't listen at very high volumes. My problem is not volume, nor "filling the room". It's a 6m x 6m living room, with 3.7m ceilings, dominated by a big bay window.
The issue was meaningful bass at low volumes - I listen low in the evenings as despite being in the third floor, noise gets funnelled up the main staircase. At high volumes, the bass that the NAD C298 delivers is more than adequate. And on the rare occasions that I play music at high volumes, the sub can simply be dialled down in the app.
So whilst bi-amping sounds like fun, it probably isn't necessary now that I have integrated the sub so well into the system. But I shall be buying another amp on the 14 day return window and trying it out ,as, well, why not? Good to see which solution (bi-amping or sub) works better.
What I think is clear from everyone's posts is that hifi is a personal thing, and one person's solution may not work or be suitable for someone else. I am an electronic music person mostly, although I tend to listen to most main genres everything apart from jazz. When listening to electronic music, with its frequently low and fast bass, the little sub does great work (it doesn't sound as if any bass is coming from it, you focus on the soundstage and the main speakers completely). It plays to my preferences for that sort of music.
Yet on much "classic" classical music (as opposed to, say, a Hans Zimmer score) the system sounds a little heavy handed unless I switch off the sub, and I bet bi-amping would be better. Yet on this setup, you can switch off the sub in BluOs, which immediately switches off the crossover and directs all of the amp's output to the full range of the floorstanders as if the sub weren't there.
Technology has come a long way, and I like it! The journey continues.
I am a music person, rather than a hifi person. What this has all meant is that I am back to spending hours exploring new music, something I had largely ceased doing when we Sonos'd the whole house and I put my old system into the loft/repurposed the PMC speakers for AV. I am loving a return to hifi, for the sake of the music, rather than for the sake of the system.
I am really appreciating the advice and opinions on this thread, by the way. Thank you!
The issue was meaningful bass at low volumes - I listen low in the evenings as despite being in the third floor, noise gets funnelled up the main staircase. At high volumes, the bass that the NAD C298 delivers is more than adequate. And on the rare occasions that I play music at high volumes, the sub can simply be dialled down in the app.
So whilst bi-amping sounds like fun, it probably isn't necessary now that I have integrated the sub so well into the system. But I shall be buying another amp on the 14 day return window and trying it out ,as, well, why not? Good to see which solution (bi-amping or sub) works better.
What I think is clear from everyone's posts is that hifi is a personal thing, and one person's solution may not work or be suitable for someone else. I am an electronic music person mostly, although I tend to listen to most main genres everything apart from jazz. When listening to electronic music, with its frequently low and fast bass, the little sub does great work (it doesn't sound as if any bass is coming from it, you focus on the soundstage and the main speakers completely). It plays to my preferences for that sort of music.
Yet on much "classic" classical music (as opposed to, say, a Hans Zimmer score) the system sounds a little heavy handed unless I switch off the sub, and I bet bi-amping would be better. Yet on this setup, you can switch off the sub in BluOs, which immediately switches off the crossover and directs all of the amp's output to the full range of the floorstanders as if the sub weren't there.
Technology has come a long way, and I like it! The journey continues.
I am a music person, rather than a hifi person. What this has all meant is that I am back to spending hours exploring new music, something I had largely ceased doing when we Sonos'd the whole house and I put my old system into the loft/repurposed the PMC speakers for AV. I am loving a return to hifi, for the sake of the music, rather than for the sake of the system.
I am really appreciating the advice and opinions on this thread, by the way. Thank you!
Edited by Harry Flashman on Thursday 6th April 09:14
Some great posts, chaps.
For me, the low volume bass problem has been solved by the little sub. It simply has more capability at sub bass frequencies than the speakers do, no matter how hard they are driven. Thes specs of each reveal this - no matter how driven, my speakers can't get down to 23Hz. And I like sub bass, a lot! I have set the sub's crossover at 50Hz with a nice, shallow curve to roll off from there. Floorstanders' crossover starts at 50Hz, also on a nice roll in curve - so they are doing slightly different things with a tiny bit of overlap.
You can absolutely boost the bass on DIRAC with the speakers. Doing so did not deliver the sub bass I wanted at lower volumes from the speakers, likely for the reasons above. So it will be a combination of the speakers' frequency floor, room/positioning, and power to drive bass frequencies. Lots of ways to skin that cat, but a small, fast sub seemed easiest, especially as a combination of BluOs, DIRAC and SVS' own sub app make integration an absolute doddle.
For me, the low volume bass problem has been solved by the little sub. It simply has more capability at sub bass frequencies than the speakers do, no matter how hard they are driven. Thes specs of each reveal this - no matter how driven, my speakers can't get down to 23Hz. And I like sub bass, a lot! I have set the sub's crossover at 50Hz with a nice, shallow curve to roll off from there. Floorstanders' crossover starts at 50Hz, also on a nice roll in curve - so they are doing slightly different things with a tiny bit of overlap.
You can absolutely boost the bass on DIRAC with the speakers. Doing so did not deliver the sub bass I wanted at lower volumes from the speakers, likely for the reasons above. So it will be a combination of the speakers' frequency floor, room/positioning, and power to drive bass frequencies. Lots of ways to skin that cat, but a small, fast sub seemed easiest, especially as a combination of BluOs, DIRAC and SVS' own sub app make integration an absolute doddle.
RSTurboPaul said:
I will repeat my earlier post 
and ask if there is any empirical evidence as to benefits (or not) of different cabling - other than obvious things like having a wire with a cross-section of conductive material large enough to cope with the power being put through it, so it does not melt or glow like a light bulb 
.
And, likewise, is there any empirical evidence as to length of cables making any actual difference, given that the speed of an electrical signal in a wire approaches the speed of light in a vacuum?
https://www.wtamu.edu/~cbaird/sq/2014/02/19/what-i...
I tend to agree. I have (the basic, not insane) Chord interconnects and QED cable, all at equal lengths. and ask if there is any empirical evidence as to benefits (or not) of different cabling - other than obvious things like having a wire with a cross-section of conductive material large enough to cope with the power being put through it, so it does not melt or glow like a light bulb .And, likewise, is there any empirical evidence as to length of cables making any actual difference, given that the speed of an electrical signal in a wire approaches the speed of light in a vacuum?
https://www.wtamu.edu/~cbaird/sq/2014/02/19/what-i...
legzr1 said:
paralla said:
The NAD C298 can output 25A max, regardless of the impedance of the speakers connected to it when it’s in stereo mode, cross sectional area of the speaker cables should be selected with this in mind.
When it’s bridged to mono, the impedance of the single speaker (nominally 4 Ohms) connected across both channels effectively means each channel of the amp only sees half that impedance (nominally 2 Ohms) of the speaker, this drastically increases the current in the Amp and speaker voice coils which is what improves the bass authority of the speakers, even at low volumes.
Harry, a single 4 Ohm speaker powered by a bridged stereo amp is asking a lot of the amp. It would be a monster system connected to your SF’s so I very much doubt clipping would be an issue (there’s protection in the amp against it anyway) but the amps might run pretty warm if you run them bridged so make sure they have plenty of ventilation. Don’t stack one on top of the other without a shelf in between them.
Having read the Amp manual, scratch all advice above to bridge two C298’s and run as monoblocks into a 4 Ohm speaker.
“ 11 BRIDGE MODE
The C 298 amplifier can be configured to be MONO (Bridge Mode), more than doubling its output power. This way, the C 298 can be used as part of a high power stereo or home-theatre system, by connecting additional power amplifiers.
• In BRIDGED MODE (switch at ON (MONO) setting), the C 298 will
produce approximately 620W into an 8 ohm loudspeaker. In this mode, the amplifier sections will react as though the speaker impedance
has been halved. Low impedance speakers (under 8 ohms) are not recommended when using Bridge Mode as these may cause the amplifier’s thermal cut-out to operate if played at high levels.”
It might (probably would) work great but I don’t want to recommend going against the manufacturer’s recommendation.
If you get another one, bi-amp the speakers rather than power one speaker from one amp.
Good post and the reason I suggested caution with bridged amp,offers into a 4 ohm load.When it’s bridged to mono, the impedance of the single speaker (nominally 4 Ohms) connected across both channels effectively means each channel of the amp only sees half that impedance (nominally 2 Ohms) of the speaker, this drastically increases the current in the Amp and speaker voice coils which is what improves the bass authority of the speakers, even at low volumes.
Harry, a single 4 Ohm speaker powered by a bridged stereo amp is asking a lot of the amp. It would be a monster system connected to your SF’s so I very much doubt clipping would be an issue (there’s protection in the amp against it anyway) but the amps might run pretty warm if you run them bridged so make sure they have plenty of ventilation. Don’t stack one on top of the other without a shelf in between them.
Having read the Amp manual, scratch all advice above to bridge two C298’s and run as monoblocks into a 4 Ohm speaker.
“ 11 BRIDGE MODE
The C 298 amplifier can be configured to be MONO (Bridge Mode), more than doubling its output power. This way, the C 298 can be used as part of a high power stereo or home-theatre system, by connecting additional power amplifiers.
• In BRIDGED MODE (switch at ON (MONO) setting), the C 298 will
produce approximately 620W into an 8 ohm loudspeaker. In this mode, the amplifier sections will react as though the speaker impedance
has been halved. Low impedance speakers (under 8 ohms) are not recommended when using Bridge Mode as these may cause the amplifier’s thermal cut-out to operate if played at high levels.”
It might (probably would) work great but I don’t want to recommend going against the manufacturer’s recommendation.
If you get another one, bi-amp the speakers rather than power one speaker from one amp.
Edited by paralla on Friday 7th April 11:18
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