Why is my boiler on...when it should be off?
Discussion
My boiler programmer has hot water on for 2 hrs in the morning and heating the same...right now, it is all off.
However, every now and then the boiler kicks in for a few minutes....also, related??? the hot water tank is ALWAYS too hot to touch (nice for warm towels in the airing cupboard...but is that right???)
Should the boiler fire up when the programmer says its off??
However, every now and then the boiler kicks in for a few minutes....also, related??? the hot water tank is ALWAYS too hot to touch (nice for warm towels in the airing cupboard...but is that right???)
Should the boiler fire up when the programmer says its off??
lol...not sure what it would look like!
so if the valve is stuck open....and the tank is SUPER hot....the boiler will keep flicking off and on to keep it that way while the valve stays open 24/7? Hence a hot tank that never gets less than HOT and a boiler that fires up all hours of the day for a few mins at a time?
that sounds like me.
whats the cost of a plumber to swap a new valve in?
so if the valve is stuck open....and the tank is SUPER hot....the boiler will keep flicking off and on to keep it that way while the valve stays open 24/7? Hence a hot tank that never gets less than HOT and a boiler that fires up all hours of the day for a few mins at a time?
that sounds like me.
whats the cost of a plumber to swap a new valve in?
NPI said:
That's correct, but it might also easier to think of them on separate lines:
Time-Clock -> Cylinder 'Stat -> Zone Valve Motor -> Zone valve switch
Zone valve switch -> Boiler
So if the zone valve sticks open the boiler will run all the time, controlled only by its own thermostat. The cylinder will get as hot as the setting on the boiler 'stat, which might be 80C.
ahhhh......is that why the tank stat is 60 but the tank is BOILING hot? All the time!!!!Time-Clock -> Cylinder 'Stat -> Zone Valve Motor -> Zone valve switch
Zone valve switch -> Boiler
So if the zone valve sticks open the boiler will run all the time, controlled only by its own thermostat. The cylinder will get as hot as the setting on the boiler 'stat, which might be 80C.
more clues.....the boiler is not on right now.....and the timer is OFF for heat and water.
If I turn the boiler stat up from 5 to 6....the boiler comes on!!!
So that tells me that the boiler is sending hot water to the tank 24/7 controlled only by the BOILER stat and ignoring the tank stat....right???
So - new valve needed. No gate valves either side of it - sods law.
Now...dumb question.....why is there only one valve? what about the radiators? where does that water come from???? I assumed one for water, one for rads???
If I turn the boiler stat up from 5 to 6....the boiler comes on!!!
So that tells me that the boiler is sending hot water to the tank 24/7 controlled only by the BOILER stat and ignoring the tank stat....right???
So - new valve needed. No gate valves either side of it - sods law.
Now...dumb question.....why is there only one valve? what about the radiators? where does that water come from???? I assumed one for water, one for rads???
Rickyy said:
Depends how handy you are with electrickery.
Usually just a case of removing a few screws and changing a few (like for like) wires. Be warned, not all models of zone/three port valves have removable actuators.
If its a Honeywell with an orange section between the actuator and brass body, its not removable and you will get wet if you try!
well my dad is a (retired) spark so might have to drag him over!Usually just a case of removing a few screws and changing a few (like for like) wires. Be warned, not all models of zone/three port valves have removable actuators.
If its a Honeywell with an orange section between the actuator and brass body, its not removable and you will get wet if you try!
How would I know if its that or the whole valve thats buggered?
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