Question on capping plastic plumbing pipes

Question on capping plastic plumbing pipes

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scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
quotequote all
So I have a 15mm plastic pipe I need to cut and terminate. I’ve found this pack of stop ends, but all of the reveiws say “ great temporary solution", what should I use to permanently cap it? It will be outside, so I’ll need to protect it from the frost, but that’s ok.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-stop-end-15m...


scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
quotequote all
blueg33 said:
Not a plumber but I would be looking for a solvent weld cap. The cap you show works on water pressure and can loosen if the pressure varies.
Yeah that looks more like what I need. However, I can't find those for 15mm, all for bigger 40mm waste pipes etc.

Either way, I assume I would need a connector to join the end cap with the pipe, not a case of just tapping it on like with copper piping



Edited by scz4 on Thursday 31st March 10:29

scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
quotequote all
moustachebandit said:
Wrong. These caps are permanent (as are all plastic fittings) and don't require water pressure to work. Solvent weld is used for waste pipes.

OP - before you use one of these caps check the make of pipe you have. HEP/Speedfit etc then make sure you buy the right cap for the brand of pipe, the required pipe insert and a plastic pipe cutter (if you don't already have those things). Cut the pipe where you need it, add the insert and then push the end cap on and you are done.

The advantage to plastic over compression / solder is that it can be quickly popped off if needed.
Thanks for that.

Excuse my ignorance, but would a hacksaw and file t smooth off not do the job for plastic

So I need to insert a sleeve like this and put the end cap on that right?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-sts15p-super...



scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the advise today. I just took some pictures to show you guys hat I'm trying to do. I need to cut it just after the 90 degree bend. It might be a bit tight to get a pipe cutter in between the wall, but appreciate it's the best option so will try it, the other end goes under ground.

I also can't see a particular brand on the pipe lettering, any thoughts on this?











scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
quotequote all
I finally moved all the crap inside the garage to get a peak. Not much room to do anything in there, other than remove the T piece and put a straight pipe in, will the copper be welded? All that said, if it's going to leak I'd rather it leaked outside smilesmile

As you can see, there is a shutoff valve, so easy to work on!







scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
quotequote all
Spudler said:
Tidy it up with copper and pushfit.
Get rid of T piece and replace with straight connector onto new copper.
New PF elbow onto copper.
Look neater.
I'd suggest 'Polyplumb'.
Yeap that's what I'm going to do. Couple of pushpipe couplers and a short bit of copper pipe from Screwfix. Job done hopefully. Will report back smile

scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Friday 1st April 2016
quotequote all
dirkgently said:
Use one of these and you dont have to remove the Tee
Good shout, although not sure I'd have enough room, will buy one though and try it as the first option.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-blanking-nut...



Edited by scz4 on Friday 1st April 08:22

scz4

Original Poster:

2,504 posts

242 months

Friday 1st April 2016
quotequote all
All sorted now, took 5 minutes and I'm pretty much embarrassed to have asked the question now! Everyone has to start somewhere I guess smile