A piece of stainless steel needed
Discussion
l have a little project which needs a rectangular piece of stainless steel (it will be outdoors).
It needs to be 350 long x 65mm wide x 3mm thick, with 10 holes for screws.
If any PHer with the suitable skills/kit could field this please let me know, and likely cost
(PS It is not part of a garden watering scheme!)
It needs to be 350 long x 65mm wide x 3mm thick, with 10 holes for screws.
If any PHer with the suitable skills/kit could field this please let me know, and likely cost
(PS It is not part of a garden watering scheme!)
wilksy61 said:
You would be surprised how rigid 2mm stainless steel is unless of course the hole sizes are large.
4.5mm, enough for size 8 screws.It's to reinforce the front slat of a garden bench that's split diagonally - so people will be sitting on the join. What do you think?
(PS no I can't replace the wood)
227bhp said:
Oh god please no, the bodged up bench reaches episode 39
I wasn't going to mention the B word but he made me...We'll call this bench Barry Sheene
wilksy61 said:
If I were making this type of fix I would use two pieces of stainless and bolt through the bench rather than rely on a single piece held on with wood screws...
Sound, but s/s on top would look silly.Reckon 1.9mm underneath is up to it?
jeremyc said:
Are you not able to use your woodworking skillz to cut and join the slat (with a dovetail joint or similar), reinforcing it with a dowel through it?
An interesting idea but I don't want a new section of wood in there as it will look obvious, and more joints will make it weaker. The split is long and diagonal; another way would be long screws in from the front, but they would show.Nope, I'm holding out for 3mm s/s plate unless wilksy thinks 1.9mm will do it
Edited by Simpo Two on Friday 21st September 16:45
21TonyK said:
All I can add is keep looking for someone to cut and drill it for you. Cost me £60 in countersinks to drill and countersink 20 holes in 3mm stainless.
Glad it's not just me, metal wrecks everything I try!Mr Pointy said:
Do the holes have to be countersunk? If the stainless was on the underside of the wood then pan heads screws might be ok.
I guess so, if countersinking is so difficult. I just want it to be a neat as possible.In fact mild steel with some kind of anti-rust finish would do, and be much easier.
Thank you all for your ideas, all good thoughts. But I don't want a pack of 10 things a different size, or an angle iron (because it will show), or bits of something else. I know the problem, I've worked out what it need and I'd like to source it.
I realise now that s/s is too difficult to work to be feasible, but would still like a piece of mild steel 350mm x 65mm x 3mm with 10 csk holes in it as per a template I have ready. If any PHer can do this I'd be happy to support them. Otherwise it will have to be entrusted to some random monkey at a local industrial estate which I'd rather avoid. Thanks
I realise now that s/s is too difficult to work to be feasible, but would still like a piece of mild steel 350mm x 65mm x 3mm with 10 csk holes in it as per a template I have ready. If any PHer can do this I'd be happy to support them. Otherwise it will have to be entrusted to some random monkey at a local industrial estate which I'd rather avoid. Thanks
samdale said:
How strong are the other slats on this bench? Surely you want something thin and flexible that holds to 2 ends of the slat together but bends along with it? Without this similar flex, the screws at the ends of the piece of metal will pull out as the metal stays straight and the wood bows.
It'll be OK. Trust me I'm a doctor lol.Turn7 said:
But Simpo,theres nothing left alive in your garden to look at it is there?
Lots of big trees and plants are fine Looks like the estate monkeys get the job then!
uncinqsix said:
Are you planning on glueing the break together? That's where most of your stiffness should be coming from (assuming it's a longish split along the grain). If it's a recent, cleanish break that fits together nicely, a good exterior PVA will give a bond that's as strong as the wood itself. Or epoxy for a less tidy break that needs some gap filling.
It's an old diagonal split, only open at one end so tricky to get adhesive in. I had considered using some epoxy as well as a mechanical fix, but the flex and any residual dampness and microbial growth will quickly make it fail I think.Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff