Concrete spur for fence posts
Discussion
As I’m sure many have discovered this/last weekend, my fence posts have collapsed. Annoyingly they are the extra durable Jacksons ones that should have 25 year guarantee. It was installed 10 years ago by the bloke who built the house and then lived in it for 8 years so he was motivated to do it right. I do wonder if he used shingle under the posts though. Anyway...
The fencing contractor who came out said he’d never seen anything like it before and is approaching Jacksons on my behalf which is very nice of him (he isn’t the original installer)
The issue comes if they offer to replace, it will only cover the posts which are something like £40 each. Labour is significant and we’re a bit short at the mo. Apparently it’s 11 posts that need replacing
I’m considering getting them concrete spurred as they are behind shrubs anyway.
Depending on costs I may have to do it myself
Is there any machine or tools I can buy to make this as easy as possible - I have an injury that makes digging difficult. Can do a. Little bit not loads. It’s not a huge hole for a spur.
Any advice / tips, how long does each one take when you get into it? 30 mins? 90 mins?
The fencing contractor who came out said he’d never seen anything like it before and is approaching Jacksons on my behalf which is very nice of him (he isn’t the original installer)
The issue comes if they offer to replace, it will only cover the posts which are something like £40 each. Labour is significant and we’re a bit short at the mo. Apparently it’s 11 posts that need replacing
I’m considering getting them concrete spurred as they are behind shrubs anyway.
Depending on costs I may have to do it myself
Is there any machine or tools I can buy to make this as easy as possible - I have an injury that makes digging difficult. Can do a. Little bit not loads. It’s not a huge hole for a spur.
Any advice / tips, how long does each one take when you get into it? 30 mins? 90 mins?
Our Jacksons panels are fine
I’m not aware of a concrete post that can accept them and don’t want to replace the panels too
I’ll be working alone and won’t be able to remove / replace the panels myself
The spur you do it with everything else in situ so that’s more appropriate I think to my situation
I’m not aware of a concrete post that can accept them and don’t want to replace the panels too
I’ll be working alone and won’t be able to remove / replace the panels myself
The spur you do it with everything else in situ so that’s more appropriate I think to my situation
Ian Geary said:
Would agree with that..I offset from old rotten posts to avoid hitting the holes.
A repair in situ would have been harder.
How does that work? Surely the new spur needs to be tight up against the old post therefor the dig can't avoid having to break up & remove some of the original post's concrete? Could you explain a bit more please?A repair in situ would have been harder.
Bloke above mentioned a dry mix too... I thought postmoix was the thing for the job is this not the case?
PositronicRay said:
Offset is way of putting a new fence up, start with 1/2 panel so the post miss the old holes.
You can use postcrete, but if you ram down a dry mix tightly it'll help support the repair spur while it sets. Best done on a still day.
ETA
Oh and a dab of grease helps nails go in!
Oh I see - I have to repair in situ though as I only need to do half of itYou can use postcrete, but if you ram down a dry mix tightly it'll help support the repair spur while it sets. Best done on a still day.
ETA
Oh and a dab of grease helps nails go in!
Edited by PositronicRay on Sunday 16th February 10:30
I was planning staking the posts on 2 plains and using a level to get them completely plumb & square before bolting up the spurs... is that right?
What is dry mix excuse my ignorance & is the need for it mitigated if I am staking the posts out as they will not have any movement
Post mix apparently goes off in 10 mins too
Really I need the technique that is foolproof
MattCharlton91 said:
I’m a fencing contractor, 3” spurs I charge £60 a throw. As you can imagine, we’ve done loads this week. Sometimes they are easy and take less than 10mins start to finish, sometimes is can be an hour long ordeal bouncing about with the breaker.
A decent fencing graft and bar is a must, you won’t manage with a digging spade.
Step by step:
1) dig down the side of the concrete supporting the existing post, all the way to the bottom. Doesn’t need to be a bid hole at all, 4/5” is more than enough.
2) drive the graft/bar down the side of the post onto the exposed concrete good and hard, taking care to hit the same spot each time.
3) once the concrete has cracked, using the bar, prize the concrete off the post. Do this as many times as necessary.
4) once all of the concrete is out of your hole, fit the spur to the post using M10x130mm coach screws with square washers. Once fitted pull the post plumb.
5) when happy that the post is plumb, fill the hole halfway with water, and half a bag of postmix. Stab at the postmix a few times with a line pin or stick to ensure no dry spots in the postmix. Then add a bit more water and the rest of the postmix. Repeat the stabby bit.
6) ensure post is still plumb and cover last inch or two with soil.
Also, best of luck getting anything from Jackson’s, there are simply too many variables 10years down the line for them to warranty any claim. They could blame ground conditions, improper fitment, ground contamination. Etc.
Hi mate thanks for this. If Jackson's do offer replacement posts, however unlikely, I'd have to pay someone to take out the 10 panels and 11 posts, then replace. Can't do that myself, too much lifting / general work. I'm assuming that would be a much more expensive job labor wise could you give me a rough idea so I'm pre-armed? They're 6 foot panels with 2 foot trellis top and a gravelboard tooA decent fencing graft and bar is a must, you won’t manage with a digging spade.
Step by step:
1) dig down the side of the concrete supporting the existing post, all the way to the bottom. Doesn’t need to be a bid hole at all, 4/5” is more than enough.
2) drive the graft/bar down the side of the post onto the exposed concrete good and hard, taking care to hit the same spot each time.
3) once the concrete has cracked, using the bar, prize the concrete off the post. Do this as many times as necessary.
4) once all of the concrete is out of your hole, fit the spur to the post using M10x130mm coach screws with square washers. Once fitted pull the post plumb.
5) when happy that the post is plumb, fill the hole halfway with water, and half a bag of postmix. Stab at the postmix a few times with a line pin or stick to ensure no dry spots in the postmix. Then add a bit more water and the rest of the postmix. Repeat the stabby bit.
6) ensure post is still plumb and cover last inch or two with soil.
Also, best of luck getting anything from Jackson’s, there are simply too many variables 10years down the line for them to warranty any claim. They could blame ground conditions, improper fitment, ground contamination. Etc.
MattCharlton91 said:
£60 a spur yes, it gets better value Multiple posts. It’s one of them jobs where it could be a breeze or an absolute nightmare.
Example - last job Thursday was x2 4” spurs. It took two of us 90mins, use of a breaker and generator, and 3bags of post fix each. Absolute nightmare.
His mornings job, x4 4” spurs, in and out within about 50mins.
To do 11 posts, bank on paying around £450/500.
I've had a response from the contractor who came round, he's saying £880 + VAT and apparently Jackson's have offered £190 as a refund of the original purchase price of the posts....Example - last job Thursday was x2 4” spurs. It took two of us 90mins, use of a breaker and generator, and 3bags of post fix each. Absolute nightmare.
His mornings job, x4 4” spurs, in and out within about 50mins.
To do 11 posts, bank on paying around £450/500.
Don't suppose you're ever in the Surrey area at all? LOL
£450 with a £200 refund from Jacksons would be less painful
I don't really want to DIY it but my car has just swallowed up another small fortune & we're therefore skint at the mo
Edited by jakesmith on Monday 17th February 17:36
MattCharlton91 said:
jakesmith said:
I've had a response from the contractor who came round, he's saying £880 + VAT and apparently Jackson's have offered £190 as a refund of the original purchase price of the posts....
Don't suppose you're ever in the Surrey area at all? LOL
£450 with a £200 refund from Jacksons would be less painful
I don't really want to DIY it but my car has just swallowed up another small fortune & we're therefore skint at the mo
Unfortunately being Peterborough based it’s a bit far out for me! Consider that a big result from Jackson’s!Don't suppose you're ever in the Surrey area at all? LOL
£450 with a £200 refund from Jacksons would be less painful
I don't really want to DIY it but my car has just swallowed up another small fortune & we're therefore skint at the mo
Edited by jakesmith on Monday 17th February 17:36
Is the contractors quote based on replacing the posts like for like? Or is that to fit the spurs? Any local contractor will do the spurs, although due to the storms, if you want it doing sooner than later, expect to pay a premium.
Chester draws said:
I've got 3 to do, did one last weekend, took about 3 hours due to having to cut through tree roots.
Another one done today, 2½ hours total.
Reckon one of the double handled grabbers and the post hole digger would have cut this time in half. I did have a 5kg breaker which got through the concrete alongside the post easy enough.
£50-60 seems a 'reasonable' price to me. If in includes materials even more so.
If you have shrubs alongside, do you have enough room to work? Or will you have to dig those up first?
I'll be OK hopefully without digging up shrubs! I will buy all the right tools including the digging bar and the scoop tool and post spade. Another one done today, 2½ hours total.
Reckon one of the double handled grabbers and the post hole digger would have cut this time in half. I did have a 5kg breaker which got through the concrete alongside the post easy enough.
£50-60 seems a 'reasonable' price to me. If in includes materials even more so.
If you have shrubs alongside, do you have enough room to work? Or will you have to dig those up first?
I didn't realise so many needed doing, I can buy everything to do the 11 for £350, quite a saving over £880
MattCharlton91 said:
£880 +vat is very steep indeed!
Have a go! You may just enjoy it! Follow the step by step you’ll be fine. Would pics to go with the steps be helpful too? (Apologies if I’m teaching you to suck eggs!)
Typically a spur takes me around 30mins start to finish, but that’s with a good heavy graft, and 13years of pain/experience.
Thanks!Have a go! You may just enjoy it! Follow the step by step you’ll be fine. Would pics to go with the steps be helpful too? (Apologies if I’m teaching you to suck eggs!)
Typically a spur takes me around 30mins start to finish, but that’s with a good heavy graft, and 13years of pain/experience.
Should be OK, got 2 days to do it + a friend coming round for day 2. I have used it as an excuse to buy some new tools
If I get the £200 back from Jacksons the job will cost me £300 all in
Rather that, get some exercise, learn a new skill & get some quality tools to keep, than pay double for someoone to do it for me
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/yxcMYv0l[/url][url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/8Z7nY4Uc[/url][url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/KIInoBqp[/url][url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/J6SG2Oid[/url]I live in an extremely wealthy area and the guy will let me skip the 3 month wait he has, as he has done major work for my neighbour. I’d be ok with that price per spur if it was 2,3,4 need doing as it wouldn’t be worth my while to buy the tools and do it myself. The way I see it is I’m saving £500 and getting a load of new tools for free. Have wanted an impact driver for a few years now what better excuse than to drive in 22 coach screws... or is it not advised from a cracking concrete POV?
MattCharlton91 said:
Good man O.P
You’ll be fine buzzing in the coach screws with an impact gun. The screw will pull out of the timber before the concrete shatters.
Rather than a trenching spade like you’ve pictured, invest it a fencing graft/spade. They have a far longer handle, which is much easier on your back. That kango will make light work of the old concrete too.
Thanks mate I'll change the spade for a proper graft as you adviseYou’ll be fine buzzing in the coach screws with an impact gun. The screw will pull out of the timber before the concrete shatters.
Rather than a trenching spade like you’ve pictured, invest it a fencing graft/spade. They have a far longer handle, which is much easier on your back. That kango will make light work of the old concrete too.
I picked up the repair spurs today on a farm, this really attractive 20 year old girl loaded them into the back of my A5 with me, without wearing gloves & with nicely painted nails, like they were bags of supermarket shopping! I couldn't believe it great service made me laugh really.
I got 4x4 spurs that are 3 foot 6 long, with 200mm coach screws (posts are 130mm deep) & square washers. Cost including post mix is £17.38 per post. Didn't go for 4 foot spurs as posts have lighting fittted that I would have had to move. Hopefully they'll be OK, they are 4x4 so that might help.
Quick question - do I lay a bit of gravel or aggregate of some sort under the repair stud before postcreting?
I've just done 9 of the 11, and it took about 7 hours. 1 hour was spent sorting out a twisted panel that wouldn't go back in the guide and I had to mess about removing & replacing nails etc
I didn't come across any concrete whatsoever - just lots of smashed up bricks and stuff. So that made it easier. The ground is clay and very stony. I did the first one without the jackhammer / breaker and it was hideous. The power breaker was essential I couldn't have done it without it. The impact driver was amazing! I have wanted one for some time as I do a lot of DIY projects and for screwing into hard wood like oak, or screwing where it is awkward to do pilot holes like when you're up a ladder, it is going to be brilliant. Could have managed without it easily enough but it was £55 and uses my existing Makita battery.
The post digging scissor spades were very good as was the ground breaking tool. They will be useful for planting going forward. I didn't use the graft in the end. The tools will be invaluable for numerous tasks going forward and as always I've learned a new skill, been really active, and developed my confidence doing some work in my home.
Thanks for all the advice
I haven't done the postcrete stage and reading a comment above am wondering how necessary it is - could I just backfill the holes with the bits of brick and soil and stuff instead to make it easier to remove in future or is concreting in superior?
I didn't come across any concrete whatsoever - just lots of smashed up bricks and stuff. So that made it easier. The ground is clay and very stony. I did the first one without the jackhammer / breaker and it was hideous. The power breaker was essential I couldn't have done it without it. The impact driver was amazing! I have wanted one for some time as I do a lot of DIY projects and for screwing into hard wood like oak, or screwing where it is awkward to do pilot holes like when you're up a ladder, it is going to be brilliant. Could have managed without it easily enough but it was £55 and uses my existing Makita battery.
The post digging scissor spades were very good as was the ground breaking tool. They will be useful for planting going forward. I didn't use the graft in the end. The tools will be invaluable for numerous tasks going forward and as always I've learned a new skill, been really active, and developed my confidence doing some work in my home.
Thanks for all the advice
I haven't done the postcrete stage and reading a comment above am wondering how necessary it is - could I just backfill the holes with the bits of brick and soil and stuff instead to make it easier to remove in future or is concreting in superior?
David A said:
Question folks if I’m replacing some fencing and it already has concrete Spurs - do I need to bury And concrete the posts (wooden) at all or just coach bolt them to the spurs ?
Having done this job now I’d say no. The point of the spurs is they secure ground-level posts whose sub ground level bit is rotted. Having seen mine, in some cases there was literally nothing below ground. Now they are bolted to the Spurs they are solid as a rock.The whole point of the Spurs is to use in this way. If you’re going to re-dig you might as well do the job properly and remove the Spurs and replace with actual concrete posts that last forever. If you’re putting wooden posts back in, they will slowly rot from ground level. That’s the only downside of the spurs, that and they are a bit ugly.
Depends how long u plan to live there for. If it’s a while and you can be bothered I’d go concrete posts. Personally I couldn’t be bothered
David A said:
OK Thanks, I don't like concrete full posts, I find them ugly.
On the fence and gate run we are doing there are roughly 10-12 spurs in already and 6-4 more needed. I'll be using Jacksons with their slotted posts. which in the past have been fairly rot resistant with their "jakcure"
Next question - do jacksons do discounts (I will ask of course) as the shopping basket is nearly £5500 at the moment !
David
I seriously wouldn't expect any extra resilience from buying Jackson's Jaccured posts, after all they are a piece of wood burried in the ground. Mine were the top of the range Jacksons ones and there was nothing left of them 10 years on. Honestly, just get concrete posts and paint them if you don't like the colour, or you'll be into an expensive and annoying job before you know itOn the fence and gate run we are doing there are roughly 10-12 spurs in already and 6-4 more needed. I'll be using Jacksons with their slotted posts. which in the past have been fairly rot resistant with their "jakcure"
Next question - do jacksons do discounts (I will ask of course) as the shopping basket is nearly £5500 at the moment !
David
^ I'd start with a chainsaw to be honest!
Here's mine. I habve replaced all the lights most of which I broke doing the job and were knackered anyway. Last job is to losen the coach screws and make the washer square with the posts before re-tightening. Couldn't be bothered at the time. 10 minute job with the impact driver.
Here's mine. I habve replaced all the lights most of which I broke doing the job and were knackered anyway. Last job is to losen the coach screws and make the washer square with the posts before re-tightening. Couldn't be bothered at the time. 10 minute job with the impact driver.
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff