TV wall with sound absorbing benifits
Discussion
I'm looking to add some feature panelling to 3/4 of the tv wall, possibly 18mm oak veneered mdf, or since the room is on the first floor and may not get a full sheet up the staircase, 18mm mdf painted with grooves in (2ft wide strips).
I would have to fit verticle timbers to the wall and intend to fix the panels with slide on keku clips to hide fixings.
While sound transfer between the wall doesn't seem to be causing any issues that's known, I always wonder if anything can be heard so I usually sit with the remote in hand adjusting volume up down.eg during adverts or if there's any music scenes etc.
Does anyone know if increasing the timbers to say 3x2 and placing acoustic Rock wool inbetween with a 10mm gap behind would help in any way or would any benefit be so negible to not bother. There will be around a 450mm gap around the sides and top.
A full acoustic spec wall would be a bit over the top.
Thanks.
I would have to fit verticle timbers to the wall and intend to fix the panels with slide on keku clips to hide fixings.
While sound transfer between the wall doesn't seem to be causing any issues that's known, I always wonder if anything can be heard so I usually sit with the remote in hand adjusting volume up down.eg during adverts or if there's any music scenes etc.
Does anyone know if increasing the timbers to say 3x2 and placing acoustic Rock wool inbetween with a 10mm gap behind would help in any way or would any benefit be so negible to not bother. There will be around a 450mm gap around the sides and top.
A full acoustic spec wall would be a bit over the top.
Thanks.
Depends on the veneer I choose it could be mdf or chipboard internally. I can edge it with Abs edging for a decent finish.
Building the thing and allowing for access at a later date for cables etc is the easy thing, it's just regarding sound, sometimes you can make things worse eg. Say if the insulation slab touches the existing wall or start fixing stuff to the blockwork behind.
Building the thing and allowing for access at a later date for cables etc is the easy thing, it's just regarding sound, sometimes you can make things worse eg. Say if the insulation slab touches the existing wall or start fixing stuff to the blockwork behind.
Thanks for the replies. I think I may move the sub to the rear of the room. This set up was from a previous house so I'll get a cable that will reach there. The sub is set low and doesn't always switch on (I'm guessing it does when required). The speakers also have foam bungs in the back, which should also help.
I will be adding insulation to the floor also since it doesn't have any. Hopefully little adjustments will help a bit.
I will be adding insulation to the floor also since it doesn't have any. Hopefully little adjustments will help a bit.
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