Testing a fuse/ removing a fuse.
Discussion
sweet thanks
I also found this video just now too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgmIcmp7eo and if you skip to 6:10 he uses a multimeter on a particular fuse and
when putting the black lead on good ground of car and red lead on either side of the fuse he gets the same reading on both sides. He even comments that
there should be the same reading! yet I don't see how:
the fuse must have SOME resistance so when connecting to the end which is furthest from the negative terminal battery won't the reading be slightly less? electron has to travel through the wires to nearest end of the fuse. the eelectron has to lose potential overcoming the resistance in the fuse when it passes through the first end of fuse and reaches the other end. (the one further away) so at that end wont the reading for potential difference/voltage be less?
I also found this video just now too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgmIcmp7eo and if you skip to 6:10 he uses a multimeter on a particular fuse and
when putting the black lead on good ground of car and red lead on either side of the fuse he gets the same reading on both sides. He even comments that
there should be the same reading! yet I don't see how:
the fuse must have SOME resistance so when connecting to the end which is furthest from the negative terminal battery won't the reading be slightly less? electron has to travel through the wires to nearest end of the fuse. the eelectron has to lose potential overcoming the resistance in the fuse when it passes through the first end of fuse and reaches the other end. (the one further away) so at that end wont the reading for potential difference/voltage be less?
Krikkit said:
1) Because you're testing whichever resistance is lower - the fuse or the circuit->ground it's fusing!
I don't quite understand - if the fuse is blown and we take it out it should read 1 or 0.L to show infinite resistance since that metal inside has melted and doesn't conduct between pins.If we keep the fuse and test the pins surely it should still read the 1 or 0.L if we suspect it's blown?
sweet:
also for a voltage test why not just measure the voltage between the two terminals themselves on the multimeter instead of bothering to connect one multimeter lead to ground and the other lead to one of the component's teminals (e.g a fuse).
also for a voltage test why not just measure the voltage between the two terminals themselves on the multimeter instead of bothering to connect one multimeter lead to ground and the other lead to one of the component's teminals (e.g a fuse).
Edited by Ilovecbrs599999 on Monday 11th September 21:11
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