Relay Reconnection
Discussion
GreenV8S said:
I expect you'll find there is permanent 12V on red, and permanent ground on black. You should check that. If that's what you have then blue and yellow are the 12v signal to operate the relay, and the switched supply out to the load. You can see which is which by trying to turn it on and seeing which of these gets 12V on it - that needs to be connected to 86.
Lots of thanks for your reply!!!How do I check a negative???
I have a gadget that can check live wires but ground?
In need of more help!!!!
Reconnected the relay a few days ago all went well but the light still does not work as there is no live coming from the switch.
Been on you tube but still struggling to work out how to find the break. For 230V I have a gadget that will stop bleeping once the electricity stops, is there something like this for 12V systems. I seem to recall watching a you tube video on an attachment for a multi meter that will do this but maybe I was wishful thinking.
Thanks for advice.
Reconnected the relay a few days ago all went well but the light still does not work as there is no live coming from the switch.
Been on you tube but still struggling to work out how to find the break. For 230V I have a gadget that will stop bleeping once the electricity stops, is there something like this for 12V systems. I seem to recall watching a you tube video on an attachment for a multi meter that will do this but maybe I was wishful thinking.
Thanks for advice.
Penelope Stopit said:
The rear fog light switch supply cable will very likely be wired into a sidelight or headlight cable at the fusebox and possibly have an in-line fuse
E-bmw said:
^^^^ Wot they said, you need a test meter or test lamp, a wiring diagram & some time to work through it.
It does have an in line fuse but that is OK, the switch lights up so there is power there and therefore must be a break between the switch and the relay?E-bmw said:
1, never assume anything.
2. Just because the light on the switch comes on, that doesn't mean the switch is ACTUALLY supplying power from it, it could be internally damaged.
Start at the switch, check 12v in/out then check wiring.
Thanks for pointing out how dumb I am, I never thought about checking the switch!!!2. Just because the light on the switch comes on, that doesn't mean the switch is ACTUALLY supplying power from it, it could be internally damaged.
Start at the switch, check 12v in/out then check wiring.
Again many thanks for your replies
.
Today took the switch out and found only two wires attached to the switch, a ground and a wire that becomes live when the headlights are switched on, I presume I am missing a feed to the relay.
Question do I really need a relay, would an in line fuse not be sufficient?
.
Today took the switch out and found only two wires attached to the switch, a ground and a wire that becomes live when the headlights are switched on, I presume I am missing a feed to the relay.
Question do I really need a relay, would an in line fuse not be sufficient?
Thanks for everyones advice.
Fixed it yesterday, started tracing the wire from the fog light to the switch, The switch was disconnected from the fog light, the wire was 2ft to short to reach the light switch!
Looked up its MoT history, it failed its MoT for non operating fog light in 2009, wasn't MoTed 2013, 14 and 16
Fixed it yesterday, started tracing the wire from the fog light to the switch, The switch was disconnected from the fog light, the wire was 2ft to short to reach the light switch!
Looked up its MoT history, it failed its MoT for non operating fog light in 2009, wasn't MoTed 2013, 14 and 16
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff