996 targa problems

[ImMark]

Hi,

I have a leaky 996 targa. Especially in the weather a week or so ago.

Looks to be one or more of the rear drains. There are 2 each side. One from the roof channel and one from underneath the hatch seal. Where do they both route to outside? There looks to be one behind the heat shield. Where is the other one?


Sadly the roof decided to stick a while back and one of the cables slipped a couple of teeth. Now it doesn't quite lift fully on one side. Tried taking off the motors and persuading it to lift to the top on that side. But no joy. I am tempted to wind it half bay back and do the same again. But worry about unsynching the motors. Has anyone had any luck solving that problem DIY?

Finally... is there a good online resource which covers this in detail? I have seen some 993 stuff but they are quitea different beast....

[ImMark]

Thanks for that.

Where is the main drain in the rear wheel arch? Is it towards the front of the arch behind the plastic panel?
I usually park under a silver birch and they drop tons of little flat seeds which could block anything.

I first noticed the water in the rear passenger seat. If I left the seat back folded down there were some drips ( but hardly a deluge )
That was the small rubber roof drain near the B pillar you mention. it was ripped where it is cable tied to the bracket.
I trimmed it and stuck a short plastic pipe up the middle and cable tied that in. Looks like it drains properly into the channel now.

Sadly that didn't stop the water on the seat. I pulled out all the soundproofing and carpet at the back to have a good look. It was all very wet. So I think it is a leak right back there somewhere.

I am going to have to put a hose on it this weekend. Meanwhile it lives in the garage.

I am sure the mechanism wasn't perfect before it slipped. The metal drive wheels on the motors have worn a little but no broken teeth and - and it mostly works OK.
I read about someone pulling 993 motors out and then moving the whole roof by hand and lubricating the cables . I suspect you can't manually slide the 996 roof from fully closed as it slides near vertically for the last inch or so. Maybe I could take some brave pills and have a go from fully open.

Probably worth trying something more drastic as a last resort before spending serious money (eg £500 plus 2 days...)

Nice car otherwise though so might be worth doing.

[ImMark]

Well I just stuck a hose pipe on it and recreated the rain of the last few weeks.
In those circumstances it is leaking pretty badly from above where I repaired it. Dripping on the seat - plus I guess running down to the back without being in the drain channel.

I suppose it isn't the greatest design in the world and it is getting on a bit, plus my pipe wont bend as easily as the original so a bit more pressure on the remaining rubber...

I think I am just postponing the inevitable playing with it and I might as well bite the bullet.

[ImMark]

Replaced my bodge length of pipe (which matched the internal diameter of the original rubber pipe ) with a length of shrink wrap ( which shrunk to the external diameter) today.
Shrunk it up against the original rubber at the top and a short length of stiff pipe at the bottom.
That folds up nicely and doesn't put any force on the rubber above it.

It appears to have stopped it leaking.

Still a stop gap though.

Any recommendations for getting someone to do the job properly?

@Demort - I tried to PM you but not sure if it went through.
I certainly didn't get the copy it said it was sending me!

[ImMark]

Thanks for that. I have got your number if you want to remove the link again.
Would have been very convenient for me 20 years ago - less so nowadays I'm afraid.

Will give you call during the week.

I am sure there are loads of people who would take it on - and sub it out to someone else.
Just need to find out who they would sub it out to!

[ImMark]

Well I took a couple of brave pills last night.
I wound the roof half way back and measured the position of the correct side ( it was maybe only 5mm further forward than the bad side)
Then took out the motors and slid the roof backwards and forwards manually a few times and cleaned out the channels.
It slid more smoothly than I was expecting not featherlight but not sticking.

Aligned both sides to the good measurement and put the motors back in and wound the roof forward.

It didn't sound 100% going back but is now very nearly in the right position with just a couple of mm gap.

I will run a bead of silicon round it until the weather is better or I can find someone localish to trust to do it.
At least I can use it in the rain meanwhile.

[ImMark]

Just thought I would bring my story more up to date.

The local OPC had a look at it and reckon it needs motors as well as cables.
They don't appear to have done many but I know they have done at least one complete rebuild.

Haven't come across a local (Bristol ) Indie yet who are jumping at doing it. One who was generally recommended declined.
PM doesn't look to be working so maybe they are getting in touch but I am not getting the mails!

On the plus side it it isn't leaking so I don't need to decide that quickly.

Any suggestions welcome!

[ImMark]

I did raise an eyebrow - and then the other.
On the other hand you wouldn't change a motorcycle chain and leave the old sprockets.
(Well you might if the sprockets were £600!)

Will give you a call tomorrow Demort, if that's OK.

[ImMark]

Just a quick update to say that I had the cables and seal done a couple of weeks ago at Northway and now all is well.
Opens smoothly and quietly and closes perfectly.
OPC "fears" of it needing new motors appear to have been unfounded.

Good to get it fixed - hopefully it will last another 10 years.

Many thanks to Demort for all the advice.