968 - the best spec...

[lord trumpton]

...and what to avoid.

I'm strangely attracted to a 968 having recently driven one. Aside from the mechanics and basic checks, I'm interested to know what the 'ideal' model would be (aside from a clubs port) as I'm keen to buy one that will be easier to sell when I get bored of it.

For example, is a Manual more desirable over the steptronic?

I'm not a cabriolet fan, however are these a good buy and desirable or best avoided?

Colours - whats a desirable colour and what colours are best avoided

Sunroof - is this a desirable option or was it standard spec?

I realise everyone will have their own preferences, but I'm sure there must be a general package that would be easier to sell/more desirable.

Thanks for any input - LT

[lord trumpton]

So if a sport is the one to go for can you advise on transmission and good resale colours?

[lord trumpton]

Thanks for all the replies.

What would be an appropriate figure to pay for a sub 100k mile, manual, tiintop sport?

There are very few available and prices vary massively?

[lord trumpton]

mollytherocker said:

lord trumpton said:

Thanks for all the replies.

What would be an appropriate figure to pay for a sub 100k mile, manual, tiintop sport?

There are very few available and prices vary massively?

About 13k private? Perhaps 16k at a dealer.

would those figures allow for a sport model?

[lord trumpton]

So, I went to take a look at one today - one that someone told me was coming up for sale. Black in colour

Couple of questions if I may?

- Oil pressure. On start up it was at 4.5 at idle and when fully warm it was 2.5 at idle. On both occasions when a dab of throttle was applied it went up to 5. Does this sound about right?

- The temp gauge tended to settle a little below centre and maintained that position. It warmed up reasonably normally ie it didn't take ages or didn't get hot too quickly. The electric fan kicked in every now and then ( it was started and left idling for about 30 mins) Does that sound about right?

- The clutch felt heavy and bit point was fairly high - not right at the top but fairly high. Does that sound about right?

- There is no interior light right?

- The top part of the rear screen has a black strip around the edge - this seemed to be peeling away a bit. Is this something that normally happens.

Many thanks in advance

[lord trumpton]

Thanks for all the input chaps. it's really appreciated.

I have never really bought an 'old' Porsche before and am a little weary of buying one that turns out to be a wallet hoover. BMW's well I know them inside out. Ive got a golf r at the moment and whilst massively capable and fast, the old raw feeling of the 968 I drove felt great.

Re the Z3M's - I have had a few over the years, both coupe and roady. Strangely enough I enjoyed the roady more just because the S50 roar was ace with the roof down. I was fortunate enough to own one of each at the same time for a short period.





The red coupe I bought back in 2011 for just 8k - I know Munich Legends sold it recently for twentysomething!

Having pondered the 968 over the last few days, I'm minded to perhaps give one a miss; largely because I'm not familiar with them and I would have to pay specialists to sort stuff like the chains and variocam stuff. It's not that I'm a tightwad, I'm just one who prefers to work on my own cars.

Oh god I don't know what to do! haha

[lord trumpton]

NJH said:

Definitely agree that for a competent home mechanic all of this series of cars makes much more sense then buying and then using specialists for all the work. At this age they can hoover cash at a frightening rate. On my 968 I did some of the work myself but got a lot done by EMC, JMG and MR Performance Cars. I bought it for £6K, spent more than £6K on maintenance and fixing things then sold it to EMC for £3K. EMC then sold it on again 3 days later to someone else I know when I think Kevin realised that I had in fact drove quite a hard bargain. That car was 150k miles when I bought and contrary to the oft incorrect advice quoted on forums nearly everything on that car which hadn't been replaced in the few years previous broke. Given that I only did 10k miles over 3 years in the thing that is almost a pound a mile. Easily the most expensive car I have owned, a complete money pit and the most unreliable heap of crap I have had the misfortune to own, worse even that the rusty BL mini that was my first car. It really pains me to post stuff like that after owning a 944 S2 for 15 years now and 5 as a race car but I came close to walking away from the marque for good as a result. It was also a big part of the reason I didn't race enough between 2010 and 2013 as I was spanking £2K PA fixing a car I practically never drove.

Ouch - you took a bath on that one!

I'm pretty competent with vehicle mechanics and can perform most routine servicing and consumable replacements etc. I'm happy to buy one that needs a little work and like others have said; expecting a 20 year old car to be fault free is unrealistic.

My OP was really sounding out what they are like to run and if they suffer terminal problems. I want to avoid buying a wallet opener that's all

[lord trumpton]

Ok chaps

I'm close to buying this black sport I've driven

Faults I have found are as follows

passenger door central clocking does not operate via the in car button or by using the key in the drivers door. If I operate the duff passenger door via the key then it lock the central locking and the drivers door closes. Sounds like a duff actuator?

Are these readily available and are they exclusive to the 968?

The clutch bite point is at about 80% of total pedal travel ie 0% fully depressed and 100% pedal fully up.
Sounds like a clutch will be on the cards shortly?

Finally there is a small amount of corrosion at the top front of the roof section emanating from under the window seal. Peeling the seal back theres nothing underneath - its like the seal edge has worn the paint and allowed a little water ingress. - Is it possible to remove and refit this window seal if i have the roof painted?

Underneath is great and no rust, even the sills and arches are sound. Its had new OEM discs, pads, shocks and bushes all round.

Its done a genuine 92k miles with lots of paperwork and the mileage correlates correctly on papers etc.

So, I've been asked to make an offer but not a stupid one (seems like a chap not wanting to be dicked about)

Its an M reg Sport - what would be a fair offer dear PH members?

[lord trumpton]

Really? That seems a lot lower than others have suggested they are worth.

I thought it would need to be 13ish?

[lord trumpton]

eldavo said:

lord trumpton said:

Ok chaps

I'm close to buying this black sport I've driven

Faults I have found are as follows

passenger door central clocking does not operate via the in car button or by using the key in the drivers door. If I operate the duff passenger door via the key then it lock the central locking and the drivers door closes. Sounds like a duff actuator?

Are these readily available and are they exclusive to the 968?

Finally there is a small amount of corrosion at the top front of the roof section emanating from under the window seal. Peeling the seal back theres nothing underneath - its like the seal edge has worn the paint and allowed a little water ingress. - Is it possible to remove and refit this window seal if i have the roof painted?

Chances are that the little plastic rod has snapped in the central locking mechanism that's why it works the rest of the central locking but not that door. A couple of quid to replace and plenty of online guides as to how to remove the door card so a nice easy DIY - with the caveat that you have small and nimble fingers, it either clicks in first time or takes quite a bit of wearing and knuckle grazing before seating properly.

IIRC the windscreen seal can be pulled out without removing the screen if you're careful. If the screen does need to be removed to sort the corrosion out then you MUST remove the a-pillar trims before letting the screen fitters near it or there is a very very high chance that they'll get damaged on either removal, reassembly or if you're lucky - both!

Thanks for that info; seems fairly straightforward.

Any idea on price of the car?

[lord trumpton]

blade7 said:

dry664 said:

92k mile Sport in good condition has to be worth £15k minimum in the current market.

A good E46 M3 makes more sense to me at that money.

Ive trodden the m3 path in many genres - E30, E36, E46 and E90. The E46 is an amazing car and the S54 engine is a relatively bulletproof masterpiece (HGF and Cracking vanos cog aside) but it has a real achilles heel and that is the rear axel carrier panel to which the subframe bolts - they crack. Some can be nipped in the bud, welded and plated but some can need a complete new panel (major surgery) at £4k.

People say its a small scale thing - it isn't they all crack and will do at some point. Been there and done that with a few E46 M3's

I'm wanting a 968 sport - way more scarce and prices will surely rise over the long term

[lord trumpton]

So, just to conclude this thread; with the help and advice from you guys I am now the owner of a lovely '95 968 sport in a silvery blue colour.

It's a lovely car and very original too, all the keys and spare porsche immobiliser fobs, book pack, stamped service history, all the bills plus the original dealer stickers in the window - all that kinda crap. A very straight and original car.

I', going to spend some days over the winter months titivating it so I'll start a thread detailing the progress etc

Thanks to all for the advice and input

[lord trumpton]

yep the sticker is there

edit - removed pic of sticker. probably not a sensible thing to put on a forum

Edited by lord trumpton on Sunday 27th December 16:53

[lord trumpton]

GC8 said:

The sticker is of interest, but of no real importance and it is certainly not important in the way that people suggest. That is received wisdom, at best. Repeated and enhanced until people daresnt buy a car from which it is missing, which is ridiculous.

The same sticker can be found in the service book on page three.

From what I understood GC8, the significance of it being still in the boot was an indication that the rear end ain't been bashed in or even replaced. A sign of originality etc

[lord trumpton]

Thanks - Ill post up some pics as soon as I have had chance to wash it.

First and foremost I wanted to check the danger zones and spent today checking chain, sprockets and guides.

All tip top - took a while as the lower guide is a pig to view and needed a dentists mirror

[lord trumpton]

It's in my workshop at the moment - wheels off, trim off and I'm going through the usual rust prone areas making checks.

Today Ive stuck a borascope down the inner sills and I'm pleased to say that aside from some light surface corrosion they are rock solid. Ive treated them and I'm about to inject Dynax ultra to keep them safe.

I'll take a pic or two later and post them up.

[lord trumpton]

Well the arches are cleaned up and Ive Zapped the inner sills with the brilliant Dynax extreme







I'll get chance to have a further meddle at the weekend

GC8 - any pics of your car?