New 3R owner - must do's and newbie questions

[LeeNoble]

Hi All,

Let me start by saying I'm not THAT Lee Noble. My name is Lee, I own a Noble, hence the username. Sorry to disappoint.

With that out of the way...

I picked up my first Noble at the weekend - it's the dark blue 3R that was sold on eBay recently

I had it inspected before I collected, and there are some issues that I know need addressing (mostly cosmetic) - however, one of the Turbo's is leaking oil so it will need to have both of them serviced shortly. It also has a blown blower motor and the aircon needs recharging, so I'll be messing around with that shortly - I see there are a few threads about modifying cooling, which I'll read beforehand... and hopefully get hold of one of those Ali heater cases

It seems to have had a few mods, the stainless exhaust, an uprated intercooler. Not sure of anything else...

Bearing in mind I don't plan to track the car (but do plan on some long journeys - take it to Europe, that kinda thing)...

What are the "essential" modifications that should be done?

I also have some pretty basic questions:

I'm trying to get 2 new sets of keys and alarm fobs sorted for it (it only came with 1 key/1 fob). I've read that the fobs can only be programmed if you have the pin for the alarm (I don't) - but sometimes the pin is written on a sticker on the alarm itself (if not, I believe Toad can tell me the default pin from the alarm serial number). Where can I find the alarm box?

Where can I find the ECU?

The rubber around the windscreen is becoming detached in some places - looking closely, it doesn't appear that this serves much of a function other than to cover the join between the glass and the body (the glass doesn't sit in a channel in the seal, by the looks of it). Can somebody confirm this is correct? or is mine damaged and needs replacing? if it's not damaged (just unstuck) what should I use to stick it again? silicone sealer like you'd use in a bathroom?

Is there somewhere I can get hold of a workshop manual? I saw that these were available from Noble Parts, but it appears to have closed down

I expect I'll have a bunch more questions as I tackle more and more of the small issues and dig deeper into what's under the covers, so please bear with me!

Cheers

Lee

[LeeNoble]

Hi - thanks for the response, very helpful!

Jarcy said:

Aircon. Let's hope it needs nothing more than a re-gas, but in my experience whenever you buy a car without working aircon, it's something more than just a re-gas that's the problem - otherwise the previous owner would have had it done. Mine wasn't working when I bought the car. Needed both a new evaporator and condenser, and much leak chasing to find the cause(s).

Yeah, I figured that if it was just that it needed regassing the previous owner would have done it - but was willing to take the chance. Perhaps they wouldn't have done because the blower also doesn't work? not much point in getting cold air that you can't get out... anyway, thanks for the heads-up - I am considered forewarned

Jarcy said:

Ali heater box - I've just fitted Andy's aftermarket unit and very pleased with the results. Grab one of the last ones that he's got, as per your other thread. It's a long job, but even I managed to DIY it.

You mentioned cooling mods. Whilst you change the heater box, there is a modification called the 'tunnel cooling mod'. You'll need to (and want to) do it at the time, if it hasn't already been done to your car. Basically, the original setup is for all 4 black flexi hoover hoses to fed into the heater box. The modification is to divert two of these instead to down the central tunnel so that fresh air flows through the car towards the rear engine bay. The new ali heater boxes only accept 2 intake hoses.

Yep, already in touch with Andy. He's also pre-sent me the instructions, so I can see what is involved and also advised that performing the tunnel cooling mod at the same time is advisable

Jarcy said:

Stainless exhaust and replacement intercooler are all great mods to have had done. Does your car run higher power, as most of the expense has been spent before turning the wick up? Does it have a track-day sump nonetheless?

I'm told it's now close to 400BHP - apparently the less restrictive exhaust alone can unlock around 30 horses. No dyno readout to prove it though - will get this done when the turbos are sorted. No idea if it has the TDS, I need to get it on a ramp and have a look - will do so over the winter

Jarcy said:

Other essentials:
If the car still has the original oil catch tank, this should be changed straight away. The old tank is black painted steal with the collection point on the top. The steal corrodes and drops rust flakes into the oil for recirculation into your sump. Change it for the ProAlloy aluminium unit. (Hopefully already done. Should say ProAlloy on the top).

Thanks for explaining that. I read elsewhere that "the catch tank should be changed because it rusts" - and without further explanation, had assumed this was a cosmetic issue only. Now that you've elaborated, I can see this could cause a problem. Will order one this week

Jarcy said:

Fuel pump - The original was weak and the wiring was inadequate. The wiring should be changed / beefed up. If you want more power you'll need an uprated pump - either Bosch 044 or M400. Both are noisy and distracting in the cabin, although there has been varying success in soundproofing. If you don't hear them, chances are you're on the original pump. Therefore check the wiring is adequate.

I'm told it was uprated, but haven't checked. Will do so this weekend

Jarcy said:

Brake discs. Watch the original drilled units as these crack. All 4 of mine have, but I do track my car. When you replace, use grooved, not drilled discs.

Turbos - If mine needed servicing, I would take the opportunity to replace them. Again more expense, but then you can up the power.

Will check the brake discs when I get the wheels off

Replace the turbos? presumably with the T-28 units?

Jarcy said:

ECU - this is located in the side pod in front of the offside rear wheel.
You have to remove the plastic wheel arch cover - just a few screws and easier if you remove the wheel.
Then it's accessible and easy to remove. You can also get to the rear bulkhead relays there (which often need attention / replacement).

I can't help with the alarm / keys, except the siren is beheath your heater box and accessible once you remove the cowling in front of the heater box.

Thanks. Again, will check this weekend. I read somewhere else the alarm is in the passenger footwell. I can only describe the horror when I removed the panel at the back of the footwell. Never have I seen such sad wiring. This panel is now known as 'the panel of sadness'. Also, I can see the sound deadening looks pretty poor quality - like it's made of straw or heavy sack-like material. Assume something like Dynamat would be a decent upgrade?

Jarcy said:

There isn't a workshop manual as such, but there is a build manual from the US. You'll need a kind owner to deliver this to you digitally. PM me.

Ta. Will send a PM

Jarcy said:

It seems that most interest in Nobles has now strayed away from PH and onto the facebook group. Join & ask there for a more comprehensive response.

I don't really DO FaceBook... but if needs must. That DOES mean I'll have to start liking EVERY SINGLE photo posted by my siblings of their children :-/