Essex Percolator
Discussion
Both my 3000S and 3000M are running very well fantastic.
When i start from cold no problem.
After a run if i stop and then restart within a few minutes no problem.
BUT if i stop after a run and after 15/20 minutes go to start they don't like it because the Fuel in the Carb has percolated/vapourised.
I cannot believe i am the only one with a V6 Essex who has found this.
Cure maybe
1. fit manuel Choke to stop heat transfer to Carb.
2. fit a big Heat Shield between Carb and Inlet Manifold.
I'm sure this could be caused by the modern Fuels. Would a Fuel Additive help, i wonder.
I look forward to hear what you TVR drivers have to say.
Alan
When i start from cold no problem.
After a run if i stop and then restart within a few minutes no problem.
BUT if i stop after a run and after 15/20 minutes go to start they don't like it because the Fuel in the Carb has percolated/vapourised.
I cannot believe i am the only one with a V6 Essex who has found this.
Cure maybe
1. fit manuel Choke to stop heat transfer to Carb.
2. fit a big Heat Shield between Carb and Inlet Manifold.
I'm sure this could be caused by the modern Fuels. Would a Fuel Additive help, i wonder.
I look forward to hear what you TVR drivers have to say.
Alan
On both the Cars i have fitted "Huco low Pressure Fuel Pumps" in the Boot away from Heat.
Both Cars have a return from carb to Fuel Tank.
Both cars have a Fuel Supply Line that runs along the Outriggers of the Chassis in the cool.
Both Original Mechanical Fuel Pumps have been removed so no Heat transfer possible.
Both Cars have a switch so you can turn the Pump off with Engine running if needed.
Alan
Both Cars have a return from carb to Fuel Tank.
Both cars have a Fuel Supply Line that runs along the Outriggers of the Chassis in the cool.
Both Original Mechanical Fuel Pumps have been removed so no Heat transfer possible.
Both Cars have a switch so you can turn the Pump off with Engine running if needed.
Alan
Hi Nige,
first thanks for the adventures with your 3000S. These TVRs certainly keep our Brains active lol.
On my 3000S when it had the Mechanical Pump and it was hot i used to see the Fuel percolating inside the glass Dome. Since i fitted a Huco Pump (with fused relay) in the boot and a new Kunifer Fuel supply that runs along the outside of the Chassis in the cool she runs much better. Also binned the Piranha Ignition and gone back to Points. Fitted 12 volt Coil and binned Ballast.
Things to do are:
I thought a Manuel Choke might reduce temp transfer to Carb and might replace the Auto Choke.
I will look at Terminals on the Starter and clean them.
I have been thinking of adding a Heat Shield between the Carb and Inlet Manifold.
Also thought about wrapping the Stainless Exhaust Manifolds.
Alan
first thanks for the adventures with your 3000S. These TVRs certainly keep our Brains active lol.
On my 3000S when it had the Mechanical Pump and it was hot i used to see the Fuel percolating inside the glass Dome. Since i fitted a Huco Pump (with fused relay) in the boot and a new Kunifer Fuel supply that runs along the outside of the Chassis in the cool she runs much better. Also binned the Piranha Ignition and gone back to Points. Fitted 12 volt Coil and binned Ballast.
Things to do are:
I thought a Manuel Choke might reduce temp transfer to Carb and might replace the Auto Choke.
I will look at Terminals on the Starter and clean them.
I have been thinking of adding a Heat Shield between the Carb and Inlet Manifold.
Also thought about wrapping the Stainless Exhaust Manifolds.
Alan
On my 3000S i have 2 Kenlow Fans behind the Rad and they continue to run for a few minutes after i switch off.
I have an adjustable Thermostatic Switch for the Fans which i will lower the cut in Temp so they run longer after Engine switch off.
Alan
ps On my 3000M i fitted a Fused Relay to feed the "Edge Starter" direct leaving more power through the Ignition Switch for the Coil Feed. I didn't want all the power going to the Starter and none left for the Coil
I have an adjustable Thermostatic Switch for the Fans which i will lower the cut in Temp so they run longer after Engine switch off.
Alan
ps On my 3000M i fitted a Fused Relay to feed the "Edge Starter" direct leaving more power through the Ignition Switch for the Coil Feed. I didn't want all the power going to the Starter and none left for the Coil
Edited by plasticpig72 on Saturday 16th March 08:58
With an "Edge Starter" from Burtons it has an integrated Solenoid so the original Starter Solenoid is not needed.
I have used just one big threaded Stud on the old Starter Solenoid as a Terminal for the Power Cables.
The White/red Cable that was on the old Starter Solenoid now activates a Fused Relay to supply "Edge Starter"= less power through Ignition Switch.
My idea is to have as less power as possible going through the Ignition Switch.
The Fused Relay is next to the Battery above the"Edge Starter" = minimum cable run and less resistance.
Alan
I have used just one big threaded Stud on the old Starter Solenoid as a Terminal for the Power Cables.
The White/red Cable that was on the old Starter Solenoid now activates a Fused Relay to supply "Edge Starter"= less power through Ignition Switch.
My idea is to have as less power as possible going through the Ignition Switch.
The Fused Relay is next to the Battery above the"Edge Starter" = minimum cable run and less resistance.
Alan
Sorry i didn't explain very well.
With an Edge Starter the original Starter Solenoid is not needed. The Edge has an integral Solenoid.
Maybe changing the Ignition Switch can be a good idea to be sure not to have any resistance there.
Alan
With an Edge Starter the original Starter Solenoid is not needed. The Edge has an integral Solenoid.
Maybe changing the Ignition Switch can be a good idea to be sure not to have any resistance there.
Alan
Edited by plasticpig72 on Sunday 17th March 06:36
Edited by plasticpig72 on Sunday 17th March 08:28
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