How many American trucks do I need? N+1 obviously! 1977 C10
Discussion
When I bought my '66 El Camino a couple of years ago, I was sorely torn between getting an "Elk" or a 1970's Chevrolet C10, example as below:-
In the end the choice was made by the right car turning up at the right time and price - it happened to be the Elk and the rest, as they say, is history.
El Camino
As happy as I still am with the Elk, whilst I continue working on it with a view to getting it back on the road "eventually", I was left with a C10 sized itch that just wouldn't go away.
The recent sale of my Z4 coupe meant that space and cash became available simulaneously, finally allowing that itch to be scratched.
Because I wanted a short bed stepside, my budget would run to a solid example of a third generation '73-'87 "Squarebody" rather than the earlier '67-'72 second generation models that are more sought after and would need at least another £5k in the pot to get something in distinctly average condition at best.
The other (surprisingly sensible for me!) criteria being, with the Elk in bits, the last thing I needed is another major project, so I wanted an example that is up and running and ready to be enjoyed straight away - although minor tweakage is always permissible!
After looking all over at what was available, I ended up back on Jim's "Rock and Roll Motors" Facebook page, looking at his stock list. I didn't really want to wait weeks watching a container cross the Atlantic this time (interesting though it was at the time!) but he had a C10 that was already here in the UK and had just been MOT'd and UK registered.
There was only one catch - it was, now how can I put this tactfully? A bit sad looking.
Now in my opinion, the seventies was without doubt the era that (in the US car industry) style and performance pretty much forgot. Yet in my (probably quite warped) view, sat low and wide with a little rake, a mid-seventies C10 can look pretty damn good!
Unfortunately this example had none of those apearance enhancing attributes, instead combined skinny wheels and high suspension with tired paint and interior and quite possibly the world's ugliest topper.
On the plus side, a rock solid California car with a healthy 350 is a good basis for a "bit of minor tweakage". Plus Jim had been using it himself a bit as (in his words) it was good to drive.
His detailed description was largely positive, and having dealt with him before I was happy that he would paint a very true and fair picture. So I bought it, unseen!
At this point, Dear Reader, I don't think you will tolerate any more text, so I'm going to have to show you what it actually looks like!
Just keep the word "potential" in mind...
In the end the choice was made by the right car turning up at the right time and price - it happened to be the Elk and the rest, as they say, is history.
El Camino
As happy as I still am with the Elk, whilst I continue working on it with a view to getting it back on the road "eventually", I was left with a C10 sized itch that just wouldn't go away.
The recent sale of my Z4 coupe meant that space and cash became available simulaneously, finally allowing that itch to be scratched.
Because I wanted a short bed stepside, my budget would run to a solid example of a third generation '73-'87 "Squarebody" rather than the earlier '67-'72 second generation models that are more sought after and would need at least another £5k in the pot to get something in distinctly average condition at best.
The other (surprisingly sensible for me!) criteria being, with the Elk in bits, the last thing I needed is another major project, so I wanted an example that is up and running and ready to be enjoyed straight away - although minor tweakage is always permissible!
After looking all over at what was available, I ended up back on Jim's "Rock and Roll Motors" Facebook page, looking at his stock list. I didn't really want to wait weeks watching a container cross the Atlantic this time (interesting though it was at the time!) but he had a C10 that was already here in the UK and had just been MOT'd and UK registered.
There was only one catch - it was, now how can I put this tactfully? A bit sad looking.
Now in my opinion, the seventies was without doubt the era that (in the US car industry) style and performance pretty much forgot. Yet in my (probably quite warped) view, sat low and wide with a little rake, a mid-seventies C10 can look pretty damn good!
Unfortunately this example had none of those apearance enhancing attributes, instead combined skinny wheels and high suspension with tired paint and interior and quite possibly the world's ugliest topper.
On the plus side, a rock solid California car with a healthy 350 is a good basis for a "bit of minor tweakage". Plus Jim had been using it himself a bit as (in his words) it was good to drive.
His detailed description was largely positive, and having dealt with him before I was happy that he would paint a very true and fair picture. So I bought it, unseen!
At this point, Dear Reader, I don't think you will tolerate any more text, so I'm going to have to show you what it actually looks like!
Just keep the word "potential" in mind...
H20DJY said:
Bags of potential! I can't wait to see it without the topper, lower and on different wheels. Which I imagine is whats going to happen!
How big is it, in real world terms? Say compared to a "normal" 4x4.
How big is it, in real world terms? Say compared to a "normal" 4x4.
It is quite wide but not that big compared to a lot of modern stuff, fits reasonably comfortably in a sensible-sized parking space.
Munter said:
On the plus side. You need not fear ruining it by "having a go" at fixing something.
This is very true! 
LewG said:
Good to hear you're still playing with Yank stuff 99t, I remember posting on your El Camino thread about some of my dad's stuff, we are just at the point of putting his 77 Power Wagon back on the road. Sadly it failed its MOT on Friday on some really quite trivial stuff but never mind, unfortunately it doesn't qualify for the exemption at the moment either as it's on a Q plate. Dad is planning to write to the appropriate people and get a verification of its year so that we can get an age related plate etc on it. Should look far better.
Still retains that fundamental American 'simpleness' but actually works quite well, even with a little 318 it'll sit at 70mph no problem at all. Pretty huge on British roads though!
Lovely that. Still retains that fundamental American 'simpleness' but actually works quite well, even with a little 318 it'll sit at 70mph no problem at all. Pretty huge on British roads though!
Funny thing is, compared to the American cars of the same era, the pickup trucks in many cases seem to drive as well if not better! No wonder the Yanks go for them in such numbers!
Geekman said:
Lots of potential there! Can I be rude and ask how much you paid?
I'm always a little reluctant to discuss prices of larger purchases on an open forum as there is usually someone, somewhere who will pop up and say "you bin done mate, I coud 'ave gorrit for 'arf that..."!! 
Obviously if you are prepared to source and ship yourself there are savings to be made at both ends of the process.
£1-2k to buy a truck sounds extremely cheap as that'll hardly buy you more than a pile of rust in the UK at the moment if any sort of "classic" tag can be attached to said pile of rust! I doubt it would buy much more than that in California these days, especially given the Dollar exchange rate.
As far as I am aware, mine only needed lights and wipers sorting out for the MOT and has driven two hundred miles down from Grangemouth and then commuted sixty miles today without any sort of issue at all. It drives really well with plenty of power and appears rust free beyond the obvious cosmetic bits. It is early days but I already have a feel that this is a dependable old girl!
The advert for it is still a little way down Jim's Facebook page for those that are interested and as a very satisfied customer I'm happy to possibly drive some traffic his way...
https://www.facebook.com/Rock-n-Roll-Motors-549860...
Edited by 99t on Monday 14th May 20:05
FerdiZ28 said:
Do keep the pics coming 
Cheers, happy to oblige! First bit of tinkering after removing the topper was to have a go at straightening the bonnet.
Bent bonnets aren't uncommon on stuff from this era, the hinges seize at some point through lack of maintenance and the length of the bonnet versus seized hinges and VERY strong hinge springs means that something has to give - that something usually being the panel itself!
In proper Hillbilly style, I stuck a block of wood between the slam panel and the bonnet to hold it open an inch or so and then proceeded to push down on the middle of the bonnet at the side, hoping it might bend back. Not a chance, there is a hefty strengthening pressing that runs the full length of the bonnet. Whoever bent it must have been large, green and angry!
Got some steps, climbed up and sat carefully on the edge, still nada!
Started to bounce my full weight up and down, carefully at first then with increasing vigour, checking for movement every few bounces. What this spectacle must have looked like to the casual observer, I hate to imagine! Fortunately only the chickens were watching and they don't judge...
It took much bouncing, eventually as high and as hard as my back and arse could stand but eventually
Ok, not exactly Lexus-esque shutlines, but night and day better
It would be fair to say that I am familiar with their work!
Although I prefer it in "muscle-truck" guise..
The C10 first came to my attention perhaps twenty years or more ago, when the next door neighbour of a mate owned a 1970 in Old English White that looked very original and just right. Much coveting for that went on at the time.
Although I prefer it in "muscle-truck" guise..
The C10 first came to my attention perhaps twenty years or more ago, when the next door neighbour of a mate owned a 1970 in Old English White that looked very original and just right. Much coveting for that went on at the time.
Ordered a lowering kit from the US.
Plus some door seals and door striker posts to try to stop the doors banging over bumps.
Whilst waiting for that lot, a few more pictures...
Interior, it is all there and hanging together, just about. Seat cover is nasty nylon and feels horrible and scratchy when wearing a skirt (or so I am informed!)
Fixings of cast metal door trim snapped so it continually bangs against the door when driving.
Effected a quick and dirty tiger seal bodge to secure it
The four huge idiot lights are crying out to be replaced by gauges.
Kits to do so are available, at a price. Two aftermarket gauges are fitted, water temperature and oil pressure. The temperature gauge doesn't appear to have a needle and both are entirely hidden when driving! Importantly, the oil pressure looks good, even at hot idle.
Audio and heater controls. Nice that the dash hasn't been cut to fit something less period. Air con doesn't work, no great surprise there.
State of the art aftermarket ICE. I'm sure it would produce some bangin' tunes, but strangely both speaker cables have been cut by the doors. There is also a subwoofer hidden behind the seat!
Nice that the original spec sheet is still stuck inside the glovebox
Switch for swapping between the left and right fuel tanks. Appears it may be operational (fuel guage drops to near zero when switching to the right tank which I've not added fuel to yet...)
Smog era V8, capable of making quite a nice noise whilst converting large amounts of petrol into remarkably little movement! Actually that isn't quite fair, it does have a little bit of poke in the lower gears, combined with a tall first, means it is capable of surprising the odd catatonic OAP away from the lights!
All the California smog gear is still in place, air injection system, smog pump etc.
Original air filter sticker
Air con unit.
Although the compressor doesn't kick in as it should, it has a "remanufactured" sticker on it and all the wiring, hoses and hard lines appear to be intact. I wonder if a regas would get it up and running?
Wooden bed is in solid enough condition, obviously protected by the topper. A coat of Creosote may be needed!
Surface rust on front of roof appears to be 40 years of untreated stone chips. The strange rust pattern on the bonnet is because it appears to have been replaced at some point, left in its black coating until it started to rust and then painted over in blue without further treatment - with inevitable results.
Underside is rock solid, original style single exhaust, bit of surface rust and some slightly tired body mount bushes, but nothing terrible.
Jim replaced the sealed beams with decent halogen units so they aren't too bad at all.
Of course much of the above gives me a dilemma now. My assumption was that the truck would be rough but an ideal canvas for modifications.
However the more I have looked at it, the more I realise how straight and original it is. And I do like originality.
In my mind's eye, I was picturing something like this
But as good as I think that looks, now I find myself wondering whether I should just do a bit of tidying in the original colour, a subtle drop as planned (easily reversed) and a change of wheels plus a few bits and pieces to tidy the interior.
Hmmm....
Plus some door seals and door striker posts to try to stop the doors banging over bumps.
Whilst waiting for that lot, a few more pictures...
Interior, it is all there and hanging together, just about. Seat cover is nasty nylon and feels horrible and scratchy when wearing a skirt (or so I am informed!)
Fixings of cast metal door trim snapped so it continually bangs against the door when driving.
Effected a quick and dirty tiger seal bodge to secure it
The four huge idiot lights are crying out to be replaced by gauges.
Kits to do so are available, at a price. Two aftermarket gauges are fitted, water temperature and oil pressure. The temperature gauge doesn't appear to have a needle and both are entirely hidden when driving! Importantly, the oil pressure looks good, even at hot idle.
Audio and heater controls. Nice that the dash hasn't been cut to fit something less period. Air con doesn't work, no great surprise there.
State of the art aftermarket ICE. I'm sure it would produce some bangin' tunes, but strangely both speaker cables have been cut by the doors. There is also a subwoofer hidden behind the seat!
Nice that the original spec sheet is still stuck inside the glovebox
Switch for swapping between the left and right fuel tanks. Appears it may be operational (fuel guage drops to near zero when switching to the right tank which I've not added fuel to yet...)
Smog era V8, capable of making quite a nice noise whilst converting large amounts of petrol into remarkably little movement! Actually that isn't quite fair, it does have a little bit of poke in the lower gears, combined with a tall first, means it is capable of surprising the odd catatonic OAP away from the lights!
All the California smog gear is still in place, air injection system, smog pump etc.
Original air filter sticker
Air con unit.
Although the compressor doesn't kick in as it should, it has a "remanufactured" sticker on it and all the wiring, hoses and hard lines appear to be intact. I wonder if a regas would get it up and running?
Wooden bed is in solid enough condition, obviously protected by the topper. A coat of Creosote may be needed!
Surface rust on front of roof appears to be 40 years of untreated stone chips. The strange rust pattern on the bonnet is because it appears to have been replaced at some point, left in its black coating until it started to rust and then painted over in blue without further treatment - with inevitable results.
Underside is rock solid, original style single exhaust, bit of surface rust and some slightly tired body mount bushes, but nothing terrible.
Jim replaced the sealed beams with decent halogen units so they aren't too bad at all.
Of course much of the above gives me a dilemma now. My assumption was that the truck would be rough but an ideal canvas for modifications.
However the more I have looked at it, the more I realise how straight and original it is. And I do like originality.
In my mind's eye, I was picturing something like this
But as good as I think that looks, now I find myself wondering whether I should just do a bit of tidying in the original colour, a subtle drop as planned (easily reversed) and a change of wheels plus a few bits and pieces to tidy the interior.
Hmmm....
sprouting said:
Either plan is a winner. Press ahead with the second option to tide you over, then make up your mind in a couple of years when you finish all the other projects. Lol.
That is probably what will happen. Please don't use the "f" word on one of my threads ever again! 
Krikkit said:
I'd be tempted (and acknowledge you may think this'll look s
t) to just get the whole body lacquered over as-is, I quite like the patina of it.
t) to just get the whole body lacquered over as-is, I quite like the patina of it.madtoro said:
Slight drop, new wheels and tyres, matt clearcoat it.
I know where you are both coming from, an old truck with genuine time-worn paint and patina looks superb and if it had that I would probably be doing what you are suggesting. Unfortunately, to me a lot of the paint damage looks exactly like what it is - someone started prepping it for paint and then lost interest!An alternative would be to reinstate the blue on the door and bonnet to a reasonable standard without going OTT, and then have a go at adding some ageing via paint - not something I've done and not sure how it would turn out.
That said, I'm not sure how I feel about faking up pseudo patina - to me it just feels a bit fraudulent. Although on a classic, it's a better option to my mind than deliberately stripping areas of paint and letting it rust...
Eddieslofart said:
454 will slot in there lovely.... 
You are a very bad man!! 
As an aside, and quite possibly of no interest to anyone except me, I found a letter in the car with (possibly) a previous owner's name and address on - so I looked on google maps...
2007
2009 (and possibly a contender for the classics dwarfed by moderns thread!!)
2011
2015
Other than the little orange lights on the front, it looks exactly the same - right down to the missing trim on the rear wheel!
Good to see it appears to have had the same owner for the best part of a decade!
2007
2009 (and possibly a contender for the classics dwarfed by moderns thread!!)
2011
2015
Other than the little orange lights on the front, it looks exactly the same - right down to the missing trim on the rear wheel!
Good to see it appears to have had the same owner for the best part of a decade!
I think whilst it runs as well as it does, I will be leaving the engine bay well alone. Rest of the plan sounds good
Maybe if it suffers running issues in the future, then I will take that opportunity to clean up the plumbing and optimise things a bit.
Need to sort a few things that irritate me when driving first - the doors cannot be adjusted to close with a sensible amount of force without leaving them banging and rattling when driving along. The hinge pins look pretty new and there isn't really any obvious play, but the striker pins are worn away and the main seals are shot and baked hard so don't provide much in the way of cushioning or sealing.
Door seals turned up first, so set to...
Typical section of old seal
Seal removed, pleased to see the pinch weld / flange is very close to perfect, other than being a bit grubby
New seals are nice and soft and fitted well
Doors still need a fair slam, but was able to adjust the striker to let them sit pretty flush with the bodywork - again it's no Lexus but on something like this I'm happy with large but relatively even gaps and virtually flush panels.
Striker pin awaits replacement, hopefully be able to make a further improvement when they arrive.
Even with just the seals done it sounds so much better, no banging from the doors over bumps at all
Horribly rattly speedo cable is next on the hit-list!
Maybe if it suffers running issues in the future, then I will take that opportunity to clean up the plumbing and optimise things a bit.
Need to sort a few things that irritate me when driving first - the doors cannot be adjusted to close with a sensible amount of force without leaving them banging and rattling when driving along. The hinge pins look pretty new and there isn't really any obvious play, but the striker pins are worn away and the main seals are shot and baked hard so don't provide much in the way of cushioning or sealing.
Door seals turned up first, so set to...
Typical section of old seal
Seal removed, pleased to see the pinch weld / flange is very close to perfect, other than being a bit grubby
New seals are nice and soft and fitted well
Doors still need a fair slam, but was able to adjust the striker to let them sit pretty flush with the bodywork - again it's no Lexus but on something like this I'm happy with large but relatively even gaps and virtually flush panels.
Striker pin awaits replacement, hopefully be able to make a further improvement when they arrive.
Even with just the seals done it sounds so much better, no banging from the doors over bumps at all
Horribly rattly speedo cable is next on the hit-list!
Think the California version was strangled to produce about 10hp less than versions sold elsewhere. Think most factory versions were around 175hp in '77. They are quite torquey though.
Best bang for the buck on the original L48 is reckoned to be a change of cam. Headers and a dual exhaust after that, then heads and compression will all give gains, but before getting to that stage one has to consider whether the money is better spent on dropping in a complete crate engine...
Best bang for the buck on the original L48 is reckoned to be a change of cam. Headers and a dual exhaust after that, then heads and compression will all give gains, but before getting to that stage one has to consider whether the money is better spent on dropping in a complete crate engine...
Ordered some paint today - it is being matched by eye from a sample of factory painted metal that I posted to the supplier from the lower dashboard area.
There was no point trying to match the paint to any of the exterior bodywork. Clearly it has had touch ups and repaints over the years, which have then faded at varying rates depending on the age of the paint and orientation of the panel to the California sun!
I know the new paint will be substantially less faded when applied, but it surely can't match any less than the bonnet and door do at the moment!
I've worked on the basis that, by ordering celly, hopefully it will weather in nicely over time. But if it doesn't, I've ordered enough to do the whole thing!!
There was no point trying to match the paint to any of the exterior bodywork. Clearly it has had touch ups and repaints over the years, which have then faded at varying rates depending on the age of the paint and orientation of the panel to the California sun!
I know the new paint will be substantially less faded when applied, but it surely can't match any less than the bonnet and door do at the moment!
I've worked on the basis that, by ordering celly, hopefully it will weather in nicely over time. But if it doesn't, I've ordered enough to do the whole thing!!
The old C10 has been earning its keep a little, firstly collecting some new patio furniture - is it wrong that I quite wanted to unwrap the chairs and leave them exactly where they were??!!
Then fully loaded for a tip trip (obviously this is the "before" picture)!!
Then a bit more tweaking at the weekend.
Door striker pins arrived, so fitted them and spent a little time fettling their positioning. Both doors close pretty well now, still need to be closed firmly against the new rubber seals but no longer need a comedy slam (times three or four attempts!)
Next up was the driver's side bonnet alignment. The hinge was excessively worn to the point that it had run out of adjustment and the bonnet sat a good centimetre high of the wing.
Before removing the hinge, the bonnet spring needed to come off it. Some people seem to make hard work of these using levers, threaded pullers, even old seat belts tied to a tree one end and the spring the other, before reversing the truck a few inches! I chose to copy the simplest tool from Google Images and have to say it worked very well.
The removal process is - open the bonnet about two inches, just enough to access the spring. Insert rod between the ends of the spring with one hand whilst opening the bonnet a little further and simultaneously seating the rod at both ends. Open the bonnet fully at which point the spring falls off! Refitting is simply the reversal etc..
Old vs new hinge. Massive play in the pivot points of the old one.
New hinge fitted and voila?! Er no, the bonnet was still too high at maximum adjustment. Maybe only 5mm now. Looking online, this isn't unheard of with the aftermarket hinges. Typical re-pop parts quality unfortunately. Slotting the mounting holes is apparently often necessary...
Some time "disassembly, drilling, filing, test fitting, swearing, repeat all again" later, I achieved an acceptable alignment
After that right old faff, I needed some simple jobs, so replaced a broken rear marker light with a good used one, and both rear light lenses (yellowed and crazed) with new ones.
Tracked down a set of wheel centre caps, had to buy four to replace the one that was missing, hey ho!
Final job was to replace the passenger side mirror that no amount of polishing was ever going to make good.
Finally the suspension lowering parts arrived in a damn heavy package. The courier was happy to relieve me of £126 in VAT and duty before he would release it
Fitting looks like it might be a bit of a slog and the instructions recommend removing the bed for better access, so a bit of planning is going to be needed. I may delay fitting until winter as I'm sure to find some bushes and ball joints that need replacing too, so would rather have her off the road waiting for parts when the weather is rubbish rather than now...
Then fully loaded for a tip trip (obviously this is the "before" picture)!!
Then a bit more tweaking at the weekend.
Door striker pins arrived, so fitted them and spent a little time fettling their positioning. Both doors close pretty well now, still need to be closed firmly against the new rubber seals but no longer need a comedy slam (times three or four attempts!)
Next up was the driver's side bonnet alignment. The hinge was excessively worn to the point that it had run out of adjustment and the bonnet sat a good centimetre high of the wing.
Before removing the hinge, the bonnet spring needed to come off it. Some people seem to make hard work of these using levers, threaded pullers, even old seat belts tied to a tree one end and the spring the other, before reversing the truck a few inches! I chose to copy the simplest tool from Google Images and have to say it worked very well.
The removal process is - open the bonnet about two inches, just enough to access the spring. Insert rod between the ends of the spring with one hand whilst opening the bonnet a little further and simultaneously seating the rod at both ends. Open the bonnet fully at which point the spring falls off! Refitting is simply the reversal etc..
Old vs new hinge. Massive play in the pivot points of the old one.
New hinge fitted and voila?! Er no, the bonnet was still too high at maximum adjustment. Maybe only 5mm now. Looking online, this isn't unheard of with the aftermarket hinges. Typical re-pop parts quality unfortunately. Slotting the mounting holes is apparently often necessary...
Some time "disassembly, drilling, filing, test fitting, swearing, repeat all again" later, I achieved an acceptable alignment
After that right old faff, I needed some simple jobs, so replaced a broken rear marker light with a good used one, and both rear light lenses (yellowed and crazed) with new ones.
Tracked down a set of wheel centre caps, had to buy four to replace the one that was missing, hey ho!
Final job was to replace the passenger side mirror that no amount of polishing was ever going to make good.
Finally the suspension lowering parts arrived in a damn heavy package. The courier was happy to relieve me of £126 in VAT and duty before he would release it
Fitting looks like it might be a bit of a slog and the instructions recommend removing the bed for better access, so a bit of planning is going to be needed. I may delay fitting until winter as I'm sure to find some bushes and ball joints that need replacing too, so would rather have her off the road waiting for parts when the weather is rubbish rather than now...
The seat cover the C10 came with was a pretty nasty nylon affair with rough scratchy edges. Pretty uninspiring to look at too
Underneath, the original seat was pretty much as expected after 40 years in the Californian sun
The solution, well with a C10 you've either got to go Mexican or go home!!
Underneath, the original seat was pretty much as expected after 40 years in the Californian sun
The solution, well with a C10 you've either got to go Mexican or go home!!
Of course running old trucks, even one as solid as this, isn't all Mexican blankets and Siestas!
Last couple of journeys, I had became aware of a new knock / clunk from the front end, steadily getting worse.
It didn't take much finding, the front passenger damper was loose at the top where it bolts to the chassis.
A bit of research revealed it to be a common fault due to the damper mount being woefully under-engineered. Basically a pin bolts to the chassis, to which the damper then bolts. No outer support to the pin is provided. Eventually shock loads through the damper loosen the pin to chassis attachment at which point the pin levers away at its mounting hole, enlarging it and in extreme cases cracking the chassis and ripping out completely.
Common "fixes" include clamping a couple of large washers either side of the hole, which mine already had. This is only ever partially successful as, once the original hole is enlarged, the pin will always move slightly under load and the whole (hole?!) process begins again.
A better fix is to add an additional bracket to the chassis, supporting the outside of the damper pin. These are available but look such a basic shape I'm sure I can knock something up in sheet metal myself that will do the job - Google images example:
Step one though, repair the chassis.
Old mounting pin and top of damper. Note the state of rubber bush, and the groove worn by the chassis next to the threads which should be a raised collar as per the new one behind.
The enlarged hole in the chassis - doesn't look too bad but is about 2mm larger than it should be. Fortunately no cracking.
Lower bush on the damper past its best too
I found a suitable sized washer, the same thickness as the chassis and drilled it out to fit the new pin. Then drilled out the hole in the chassis to fit the washer. Bit of welding and grinding later I had the correct sized hole in the chassis.
View inside the chassis before clean up and weld (outside had been welded at this point)
Quick spray of chassis black and then bolted the new pin up. Note the new pin has a much larger flange area than the original so will spread the load better.
Bolted on one of my new dampers from the lowering kit that I have purchased. Checked it is the same length as the standard damper, just uprated to cope with the shorter springs that I will be fitting in due course. Certainly felt a lot stiffer when compressing and extending by hand so should reduce front end float.
Obviously I'll need to fit the other front damper now so as not to compromise the "handling" too much!!
I will make and add the extra support brackets when I fit the lowering kit but it will hold it for now and stop the chassis damage getting any worse.
Last couple of journeys, I had became aware of a new knock / clunk from the front end, steadily getting worse.
It didn't take much finding, the front passenger damper was loose at the top where it bolts to the chassis.
A bit of research revealed it to be a common fault due to the damper mount being woefully under-engineered. Basically a pin bolts to the chassis, to which the damper then bolts. No outer support to the pin is provided. Eventually shock loads through the damper loosen the pin to chassis attachment at which point the pin levers away at its mounting hole, enlarging it and in extreme cases cracking the chassis and ripping out completely.
Common "fixes" include clamping a couple of large washers either side of the hole, which mine already had. This is only ever partially successful as, once the original hole is enlarged, the pin will always move slightly under load and the whole (hole?!
) process begins again.A better fix is to add an additional bracket to the chassis, supporting the outside of the damper pin. These are available but look such a basic shape I'm sure I can knock something up in sheet metal myself that will do the job - Google images example:
Step one though, repair the chassis.
Old mounting pin and top of damper. Note the state of rubber bush, and the groove worn by the chassis next to the threads which should be a raised collar as per the new one behind.
The enlarged hole in the chassis - doesn't look too bad but is about 2mm larger than it should be. Fortunately no cracking.
Lower bush on the damper past its best too
I found a suitable sized washer, the same thickness as the chassis and drilled it out to fit the new pin. Then drilled out the hole in the chassis to fit the washer. Bit of welding and grinding later I had the correct sized hole in the chassis.
View inside the chassis before clean up and weld (outside had been welded at this point)
Quick spray of chassis black and then bolted the new pin up. Note the new pin has a much larger flange area than the original so will spread the load better.
Bolted on one of my new dampers from the lowering kit that I have purchased. Checked it is the same length as the standard damper, just uprated to cope with the shorter springs that I will be fitting in due course. Certainly felt a lot stiffer when compressing and extending by hand so should reduce front end float.
Obviously I'll need to fit the other front damper now so as not to compromise the "handling" too much!!
I will make and add the extra support brackets when I fit the lowering kit but it will hold it for now and stop the chassis damage getting any worse.
Matt Harper said:
Here in the US, Step/Flare side trucks are experiencing something of a resurgence in popularity - which is interesting, given they are less practical than regular over-wheels pick-up beds. Although it might not impact it's value in the UK, I would try to keep it as stock as possible and retain as much of it's originality as is feasible.
Yes, the 73-87 "square body" values appear to be starting to move in the US, mainly for better examples. This will be partly a generational thing and partly due to prices of the earlier models climbing out of reach of those who would like one.This will likely knock on to UK prices eventually, as prices of better examples climb in the US, so they drag up values of lesser examples. As a result even projects become increasingly expensive to import here and that then makes better examples already here all the more attractive.
Although as can be seen below, since mine is probably condition 4, I'm not going to be retiring on the profits any time soon!!
Matt Harper said:
I'm sure you are aware, but you can but re-upholstery kits for your truck, that include springs, pre-cut foams and fabric covers that will make that interior so much nicer and more comfortable than throwing a rug over the knackered original bench.
Sure, although the foam wasn't bad. Whilst I work on the El Camino, this one only gets the minimum attention and spend really. In a few years time, who knows. But I'll not be doing anything irreversible or "dicking it around" too much!Found, well heard initially, that one of the rear damper mounts had worked loose in the chassis, just the same as the front one had.
Same fix was applied as before. It seems that the roads here can destroy what lasted forty years in California in a couple of months!
I purchased a new toy, and decided to test it out on the rotten lower corner of the passenger door. I'm pretty sure this door has been swapped at some point as it is the only panel on the truck with "proper" rust - i.e. perforations in both lower corners, so presumably it came from a donor that had lived near the coast or outside of California completely.
Before
After
It works!! And well
Will slap some fresh metal into both bottom corners before I paint the door. Not aiming for concours (or anywhere near) but I draw the line at painting over filler and rot!!
Bit more cutting back needed yet though...
Same fix was applied as before. It seems that the roads here can destroy what lasted forty years in California in a couple of months!
I purchased a new toy, and decided to test it out on the rotten lower corner of the passenger door. I'm pretty sure this door has been swapped at some point as it is the only panel on the truck with "proper" rust - i.e. perforations in both lower corners, so presumably it came from a donor that had lived near the coast or outside of California completely.
Before
After
It works!! And well
Will slap some fresh metal into both bottom corners before I paint the door. Not aiming for concours (or anywhere near) but I draw the line at painting over filler and rot!!
Bit more cutting back needed yet though...
I like it too!
I think it is a combination of its Tonka toy looks and rugged all metal build (there are a few bits of plastic inside and for lenses etc, but not many). Been using it quite a bit whilst the weather has been good and it hasn't missed a beat.
It sounds good, goes well enough (not quick but nowhere near slow enough to be annoying) and is fairly refined to drive, much better since I've stopped the doors and dampers banging over every bump!!
It can tramline and wander around quite a bit on cambered country lanes and motorway carriageways that have been grooved by wagons, and there is a fair old bit of slop in the steering so I'm sure some new bits and pieces underneath, when I upgrade the suspension, would yield an improvement if not exactly transforming it into a B-road weapon!!
I did get caught in a rain shower yesterday and can confirm that old, hard tyres combined with little weight out back and a bit of torque is an absolutely hilarious combination. It would be even more so with an LSD I suspect...
In other news, the hole in the door has got rather larger, but at least I have found solid metal now!!
I think it is a combination of its Tonka toy looks and rugged all metal build (there are a few bits of plastic inside and for lenses etc, but not many). Been using it quite a bit whilst the weather has been good and it hasn't missed a beat.
It sounds good, goes well enough (not quick but nowhere near slow enough to be annoying) and is fairly refined to drive, much better since I've stopped the doors and dampers banging over every bump!!
It can tramline and wander around quite a bit on cambered country lanes and motorway carriageways that have been grooved by wagons, and there is a fair old bit of slop in the steering so I'm sure some new bits and pieces underneath, when I upgrade the suspension, would yield an improvement if not exactly transforming it into a B-road weapon!!
I did get caught in a rain shower yesterday and can confirm that old, hard tyres combined with little weight out back and a bit of torque is an absolutely hilarious combination. It would be even more so with an LSD I suspect...
In other news, the hole in the door has got rather larger, but at least I have found solid metal now!!
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