My 1999 Honda s2000 - My Journey, Beware it's a Long Read.
Discussion
Hi All,
I acquired a Honda s2000 last year after lusting after one of these for 20 years.
(ever since they were released)
In my current situation, and having sold my 1999 Prelude 2.2vti for personal reasons it was now or never to own one.
I am a loyal Honda fan, and have pretty much owned Honda's throughout my 20 year driving career, with a few exceptions.
(1999 - 2002) - 2nd driver on my dad's 1994 1.6 Toyota Carina E
(2002 - 2005) - My First Car: 1994 Honda Civic, 3 door, 1.3 Dx (D13B2)
(2005 - 2010) - 2000 Honda Civic, 2 door coupe, 1.6 SOHC (D16Y7)
(2010 - 2016) - 1999 Honda Prelude, 2 door coupe, 2.2 vti (H22A8 red top)
(2010 - 2014) - 2000 Seat Arosa, 3 door Hatch, 1.7 SDI diesel (daily commuter)
(2014 - present) - 2006 Honda Accord, 4 door saloon, 2.2 i-ctdi (N22A) Diesel
(Still currently in ownership - My daily commuter)
@ 198k miles with original clutch, timing chain, turbo and exhaust system
(2018 - present) - 1999 Honda s2000, 2 door convertible, 2 litre (F20C) - AP1
I've always tried to do most of the work on my car's myself throughout the years, and have learnt so much about cars in general. Not having a garage or driveway, it does however limit what I tackle though.
Due to their current prices, my budget could only allow for the pre-face version.
The s2000 is an early 1999 model, there are a few things that need addressing due to it being stood around for many years but overall it is in great condition.
It's going to make for an interesting project.
I thought I would share my experiences and the journey throughout my s2000 ownership. I have tried to document each task with as much detail as possible.
So beware, it's a long read which I hope you will enjoy.
I will keep this thread updated.
My s2000 journey begins.
The Purchase
04-04-2018
When they first came out back in 1999, I knew one day I had to have one. However, over the past several years their values have been steadily increasing with a facelift 2005 model now reaching around £13k.
It always seems true, when your after something nothing pops up and when you’re not they are always plentiful.
At the time, not many s2000’s were up for sale. It may be due to the time of year or just my bad luck.
I managed to view over 4 S2000's, even one from a Honda dealer which didn’t even go into reverse gear properly.
I realised that most S2000's out there are actually in quite poor condition. People tend to buy them, keep them for a year or so and then sell them on to gain from its increase in value.
With that, anything over 10k was over my budget. I then started to look at the older pre-facelift models.
I managed to find and bag one for a really cheap price due to it needing some work, however overall it is in great shape.
The body is in good condition and the car does feature original facelift version 2 alloys.
The seller was great guy and we managed to get a deal sorted, I paid a deposit and me and a friend picked it up a week later.
The driving experience is so different to any Honda I have driven, the rawness of the S2000 coupled with its superb gearbox and that 9k RPM limit engine makes you feel like you're in a racing car.
When you push that engine and work those gears the car just puts a smile on your face every time.
The previous owner has had the car standing for quite some time, the usual suspects need addressing.
This includes:
-Flaky rocker cover
-Brake discs and pads
-Seized rear callipers
-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill
-Clutch is slightly worn
-Will need a fresh service (all fluids)
No plans for any major modifications, the car will be more of a project restoration with the odd genuine OEM accessory upgrade.
Shortly after purchase on the 04-04-18, the work began on project 2000.
I had a good look over the car and created a list of the areas that needed addressing.
This list was quite extensive but I began with the basics first.
Task 1 - Alarm Install
14-04-2018
The first task on the agenda was to install a CAT 1 alarm system, due to the s2000 being a pre 2001 model it only came with a factory immobilizer with central locking. No factory alarm system was present.
The system I selected was a Toad AI606 system, previously used on my 1999 Honda Prelude and proved to be a reliable easy to use simple system. There was only one person in my mind to have this installed.
This was Rakesh from RD electrics, he installed the same system on my Prelude and the craftsmanship and quality of his work was top notch.
Rakesh did a fantastic job and I can't recommend him enough, the install was straight forward and went smoothly.
Due to the age of the car, all door pin switches were also removed and cleaned to avoid the alarm going off accidently. The door pin switches had some slight corrosion but all cleaned up well with their connectors all intact and in excellent condition.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Alarm System Kit
Part Number: TOAD AI606
Supplier: Supplied by Rakesh
Services Used:
R&D Electrics (Alarm Install Services)
Contact: Rakesh
Mobile: 077395-40000
Email: rakesh6466@sky.com
https://en-gb.facebook.com/fonz6466/
Resources used
None
Task 2 - Basic Oil Service
14-04-2018
The next task was to perform a basic service on the s2000, this was performed straight after the alarm install.
All filters used were genuine Honda.
This included:
-Oil change using 5w 40 (Oil chosen was the Motul 5w/40 x-cess)
-Oil filter
-Air filter
-Pollen filter
-Spark Plugs
The other fluids, i.e, Coolant, Transmission, Diff, Brake and Clutch will be performed later.
Changing the oil on the s2000 was surprising quite easy, the oil filter is easily accessible with the air filter being right in front of the engine bay within a large air box.
The pollen filter is located under the front windshield scuttle panel and was a breeze to change over.
Replacing the spark plugs were relatively easy, the existing spark plugs looked in good condition and showed that the engine has been performing ok. Spark plugs were tighten using the revised torque specifications.
I decided to go for the iridium type spark plugs instead of the platinum type for better longevity.
Overall a very pleasant and enjoyable task, being classic Honda design everything was easily accessible.
Parts Purchased
Part: Engine Oil (Motul 5w/50 x-cess)
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Engine Oil Filter (Genuine Honda) (Also included sump drain washer)
Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Air Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 17220-PCX-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Pollen Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 79831-S2A-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: NGK Spark Plugs (Iridium)
Part Number: IFR7G-11KS
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Oil Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Air filter Change
https://howtune.com/articles/97-replace-the-air-fi...
You Tube Video: Pollen filter change
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHylusRKJV4
Task 3 - Engine Bay Deep Clean
22-04-2018
The next task after the basic service was to perform a deep clean on the engine bay.
Initially the engine bay wasn't too bad but there were definite signs that the car had been sat around for a long while. It would also be a good opportunity to have a good in-depth view around the engine bay to see if anything required addressing.
I began by removing the battery and hoovering up all the debris in that corner, the process consisted of a bottled spray gun filled with fairy liquid and water, a tooth brush and an old unused paint brush.
Whilst I was around the battery area, I unbolted both grounding cables and wire brushed them to remove all the corrosion I could.
The air box was also removed and all chassis sections inspected and cleaned.
Due to the age of the car there are areas, fixtures and fittings that have rusted slightly but overall it is a vast improvement to the overall look of the engine bay.
The rocker cover will be replaced with a newly refurbished one which is on order and will be fitted very soon.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 4 - Front Door Speaker Check & Revert Back To Originals
05-05-2018
During a drive I noticed that the sound output from the passenger side speaker became slightly intermittent on certain occasions, mainly during uneven road surfaces.
A quick peer into the speaker grills reveal that the original speakers have been replaced by some JBL types.
Due to this upgrade and the intermittent sound issue I was concerned that the DIY speaker upgrade from the previous owner may have been performed poorly.
The speakers will be reverted back to originals, however the original speakers for this model of s2000 were the paper cone type. These seem hard to come by, therefore the later blue coned type speakers were purchased as these are plentiful on the 2nd hand market and perform much better.
A good condition pair of later spec blue coned original s2000 speakers were purchased.
The door cards were swiftly removed and the quality of the JBL speaker install became apparent. The JBL speakers were fitted to the original Honda speaker baskets which was quite impressive. The original speaker loom and connectors were all still intact which was a relief. The previous owner connected the JBl speakers to the original connectors using modified spade connectors hence the poor contact. All this was poorly wrapped generously with electrical tape.
With all that removed, the install of the original s2000 speakers was clean and swift, with connectors being cleaned up and some multipurpose grease added to the connector contacts to prevent any corrosion.
The rest of the door assembly was inspected with no other areas having been touched or modified. Even the original door sheet membrane still intact and untouched.
The sound from the original speakers are surprisingly good and very happy with the results.
Speaker Purchased
Door Card Removed Showing JBL Speaker Setup
Poor Quality of Wiring Connection but Original Connector and Loom Intact and not modified
Original Speakers Installed
Parts Purchased
Part: Original s2000 Speakers
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay Purchase (2nd Hand)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 5 - Modifry Bracket Phone Holder
05-05-2018
One of problems with the s2000 in today's modern age is that there are not many options or suitable places within the cabin to mount your mobile phone.
With various online searches there was always one brand/design that was mentioned.
This design came from a company based in the states and goes by the name of Modifry.
Bob at Modifry specially designed a bracket mount which installs on the side of the dash cluster.
The item is quite pricey (being in the uk) for a bit of metal but this seemed to be the perfect solution to all s2000 owners and I can see why it is so popular.
With the product coming from the states, it does mean expensive shipping costs, slightly longer shipping time and the potential of customs duty tax being charged upon entering the UK.
To my amazement, the package came within 5 days and no duty was charged
Upon opening the package it came with some instructions and all pieces individually wrapped in their plastic bags. I also ordered their universal phone holder as it attaches neatly to the bracket using the supplied screws.
The install was pretty straight forward with only the cutting of the excess plastic trim being quite tricky due to the fear of slipping and damaging the interior. Taking it slow with a sharp craft knife was the key here and in no time the trim was neatly cut.
If the bracket was ever removed in the future, none of the cut trim will be seen when re-assembled.
The bracket and phone holder was soon attached, extra phone grippers were also purchased to further hold the phone in its cradle - I would highly recommend them if your phone is as big or bigger than a Samsung Galaxy S6.
Overall a great bit of kit, the cradle and bracket are stable at high speeds and on rough roads. It keeps the phone in place and does not move around.
There are a few issues that I have found:
-The phone holder does sit quite low and on the occasional gear change you can hit the phone/bracket assembly.
-If you have the phone charging, the cable exits on the bottom of my phone and therefore will hinder your gear changing.
-Due to the phones position when mounted, you can get reflection/glare from the phone screen, but twisting the phone slightly towards the driver can eliminate this.
However, despite these issues it is nice to have a place to mount your phone when driving the s2000 albeit slightly on the pricey side.
The Kit
Install
Finished
Parts Purchased
Part: Modifry Dash Bracket
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Universal Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Additional Phone Grippers for Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYguys You tube Video (Modifry Bracket Install Guide)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2sjoCC6c4o
Task 6 - Interior Deep Clean
05-05-2018
Whilst staying within the interior, the next task was to perform a deep clean of the interior. Being a convertible, the interior would have been exposed to lots of dirt and grime over the years.
The job began by removing all the top layer carpets and hoovering the main carpets thoroughly, this included all hard to reach areas behind and under the seats.
After the carpets were hoovered, they were scrubbed using an interior type brush and autoglym interior shampoo. The results from this was fresher looking and smelling carpets.
The next stage was to clean the dash cluster, all the buttons were individually cleaned using autoglym interior shampoo and a toothbrush. Removing all dirt and grime around each button.
The results were shockingly good, with the dash cluster looking really fresh and clean, the vents were also cleaned using a detailing brush.
The stereo system was mainly untouched and in fabulous condition with the original Honda cassette stereo still in place, further inspection reveals that the stereo has never been removed. No marks or scratches are present anywhere around the fascia or surround trim panels. The original CD changer is still in the boot and in full operational order.
The old tax disc holder was still present and was removed, the adhesive remains cleaned using IPA.
Both seats were brushed and megauries leather treatment was applied to them to help restore its texture and finish.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 7 - Soft Top Striker Modification
12-05-2018
At higher motorway speeds, my s2000's roof tends to leak some wind noise.
The soft top roof on my s2000 had been replaced by the previous owner so it is not the original one, however upon reading a few threads there is a modification that can be performed to help reduce the wind noise from a roof that does not sit 100% flush with the windshield edge.
The OEM solution is to install the hardtop strikers, these are similar to the soft top striker plates but are much thicker. Priced at around £40 ish each, they are quite pricey.
I thought I would give the washer modification a try considering it is a quick and cheap solution.
The relevant interior trim all unclipped with ease with the help of "DIYguys" fantastic video.
The M6 washers (x2 per screw) and longer M6 machine screw were fitted and the soft top strikers re-installed.
As a result, the soft top strikers clamps the roof much tighter, on a road test the wind noise has pretty much been eliminated.
A fantastic result.
This solution may not work and will depend on how worn out your roof or existing strikers are but it is highly worth trying before purchasing the hard top striker versions.
Parts Purchased
Part: M6 x25mm Machine Screw with (1mm pitch thread)
Part Number: M6x25
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: M6 Form C Washer
Part Number: M6 Washers
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY guys youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 8 - Hard Top Brackets Installation
19-05-2018
One of the items on my wish list for the s2000 is a hardtop roof.
I was unfortunate to find a GT version of the s2000 that already came with a hardtop roof.
However, long before owning an s2000 I was able to find a set of hardtop roof brackets. They popped up on ebay at a great price so I snapped them up.
The thought here, if I didn't buy an s2000 they could be sold on pretty easily.
By installing the hardtop brackets now it would be ready for a hardtop if one popped up second hand in the future.
I studied the Honda hard top instructions manual and the fitting of the brackets seem relatively straight forward.
The kit I purchased came with the modified plastic trim sections with the hardtop version brushes, I began by removing the various trim pieces from behind the front seats.
Then removing the quarter panel plastic trim pieces.
This exposed the inner metal sections where the brackets are to be fitted.
The install was quick and simple along with re-assembly.
It would be much easier if the seats were removed although I didn't have that luxury due to performing car work on a side street.
My s2000 is an early model and therefore does not have the rear heated window wiring and loom.
This can be added later if I desire, perhaps if a hardtop is purchased I will look into purchasing the rear heater demister loom and switch.
A great result and now ready for a hardtop
Parts Purchased
Part: Right Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Right Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Honda Instructions Manual for Hardtop Installation
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
Task 9 - Deep Clean Boot/Trunk
19-05-2018
The next area that required a good clean and check was the boot area.
This would allow me to check all aspects of the boot, including the spare tyre. It also allowed me to check the base of the boot to see if any standing water was present underneath the tool box section.
Tasks included
-Remove spare tyre
-Check spare tyre condition and pump up to recommend pressure
-Check spare tyre recess and clean as required
-Clean all boot oem tools and check condition and function of car jack
-Hoover and clean all interior trim pieces
-Remove rubber boot seal on top edge and check of rust or broken paint
(Touch up as required)
Once the spare wheel was removed, I had a good look through into the rear of the car and it all seemed pretty clean.
No signs of any water leaks which meant the hood water drains were ok and no water was entering the boot area.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 10 - Amber Side Lights
19-05-2018
I have always liked the look of amber side lights, so this gave me an opportunity to swap over the 501 capless side bulbs in the headlamps with osram amber versions.
The install was rather tricky due to limited access. The arch liners had to be completely peeled away to gain access to the rear of the headlamp.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Amber 501 Capless Bulbs
Part Number: xxxxxxxx
Supplier: Amazon
Web: www.Amazon.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Forum thread
Xenon bulb headlight replacement Guide
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 11 - Throttle Body , IACV, MAP Sensor and PCV Valve Clean
(Also Map Sensor Bracket Strap Install)
30-05-2018
Most s2000's suffer from the rpm rev dip issue usually upon a blip of the throttle. According to threads and other s2000 owners this is a common issue with s2000's. The main culprit is usually the IACV (intake air control valve) this is quite an expensive component but usually with a good clean you can resolve the issue. I also intend to clean out a few other components too.
To begin, the negative battery terminal was disconnected.
IACV Valve
Again, using DIYguys excellent youtube video guide, the process was straight forward. I actually removed the component by disconnecting the coolant hose feeds and lifting it away. I found it alot easier to clean the IACV valve with the component out. Once the component was out there was significant carbon build up inside the chambers.
A good clean with a cotton ear bud and brake cleaner the IACV valve was looking as good as new. The motor assembly was also removed which allowed the internal flap to be properly cleaned, I also ensured this flap rotated smoothly.
MAP sensor and PCV valve
Whilst the IACV was out the MAP sensor and PCV valve was also cleaned.
The PCV valve was removed from the rocker cover and sprayed with brake cleaner. With a good shake of the PCV valve the rattle noise was still present within the component which indicates the PCV valve is in good working order. The MAP sensor was cleaned with CRC spray due to being a much sensitive component. It is not recommended to clean the MAP sensor with brake cleaner.
Throttle Body
Another task on the agenda was to clean the throttle body, from inspecting the fixings it is apparent that the throttle body has never been removed or cleaned. The process was relatively easy with just a few hoses being a little tricky to remove due to its age and never being touched.
Once removed the butterfly was inspected, the amount of carbon build up was quite significant.
A thorough clean with brake cleaner including all the ports was performed. The internals of the throttle body was looking fantastic.
Vtec Solenoid
The last task was to remove, inspect and clean the vtec solenoid. Easy access being at the front side of the engine block, removal consisted of three bolts so it was a breeze to remove.
Once removed, it was inspected, the chamber with the mesh in front had no metallic debris which is an excellent sign and proves no metal shavings or debris have been floating around the engine for any reason.
The part looked in excellent shape, a quick clean using brake cleaner it was re-installed back in no time. All surrounding areas of the vtec solenoid was cleaned also.
Re-assembly and Map Sensor bracket Strap Install
Once I was happy that the IACV, PCV valve, throttle body and MAP sensor was cleaned, the re-assembly process began. Everything all went back together as easy as they were to remove.
The MAP sensor bracket strap was also purchased and installed.
This was a Honda TSB (technical service bulletin) which resolved a potential issue of hesitation upon hard acceleration. The root cause was down to the MAP sensor electrical connector becoming loose. The strap ensures the connector is fully secured with no movement.
I didn't experience this issue but I thought it would be good practice to eliminate the possibility of it ever occurring.
Once everything was back together, the battery was re-connected and DIYguys ECU relearn procedure was performed.
The results were fantastic, the throttle response was alot smoother and the rev dip was almost but eliminated. Due to the nature of the s2000 it will probably return but for now the efforts above are well worth it.
Parts Purchased
Part: MAP Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125PCX003
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth@HH.com
Part: Brake Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Web: www.eurocarparts.com
Part: CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY Guys IACV Cleaning guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWtNORKhOJ0
DIY Guys ECU relearn procedure
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUMDzCvONTs
Task 12 - Four Piece Genuine Honda Mats Installation
31-05-2018
The interior of the s2000 is generally a lovely place to be. However the only item in the cabin that lets it down are the previous owners mat set. They seem to well used and an aftermarket type.
Honda still offers the JDM type 4 piece mat set, pretty pricey but in my opinion well worth it.
I decided to get the black set for a nice contrast against the red main carpet and seats.
Upon installation, it was soon discovered that due to my s2000 being an early model the fixings for this type of mat set do not exist.
However, due to the placement and design of the mat set, which utilizes a special bracket which sits over the chassis cross member this helps to keep the mat set in place without any modification.
Once installed they look fantastic.
A worthy upgrade to any s2000 interior.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda 4 Piece Mat Set
Part Number: 08P16S2A510A
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "mats install"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 13 - Water Leak into Drivers Foot well
31-05-2018
A couple days this week saw some heavy rainfall and whilst installing the mat set in the previous task it was noticed that the main carpet on the driver's side foot well was quite wet.
This was quite a concern as water leaking into the cabin is never a good thing. Moisture from the water can cause bad smells, invoke rust and cause mould and bacteria growth if left unnoticed.
I began to look online to see if anyone experienced a similar issue, most water leak cases for the s2000 occurs on poor soft top hood drainage which results in water leaks in the boot. However I did stumble across a thread on s2ki where an individual investigated the same problem that I was experiencing.
The root cause was the water seal gasket on the rubber drainage trim on the A-pillar. The gasket directs the water flow outwards into the door recess areas. With this particular gasket being worn away from its position it would allow water to flow directly downwards and into the area behind the bonnet release catch. See images below, notice that the gasket has moved away from its adhesive location and allow water to pass by.
This rubber trim piece seems to be a complete part which fits the entire windshield. Replacing it would either be quite expensive and or a pain to remove and replace.
In its current state the trim piece is still in good condition so it I decided to go down the repair route.
The old gasket section was removed and its area fully cleaned.
In order to replace this gasket, silicon sealant was used. This provided a good high quality long lasting reliable seal. This was applied on the same location as the old gasket, the trim piece was re-installed with the silicon left to cure.
So far no water has leaked into the cabin, a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dow Corning Clear Silicon Sealant 78g
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay - Sealants and Tools Direct
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Water leak investigation"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/wa...
Task 14 - S2000 First Photo Shoot
02-06-2018
After the above tasks, there was an opportunity to perform a quick photo shoot of the s2000.
We found some lovely roads in Hertfordshire for a great drive and some photos.
Task 15 - Fit New Centre Caps to Wheels
03-06-2018
With the s2000 having facelift v2 wheels they came with unofficial centre caps which did not do the wheels any justice.
I wanted the original Honda centre caps but for the face lifted wheels they were quite pricey. Although they were still available to purchase from Honda.
I decided to go for them and once installed, it totally transformed the look of the wheel.
Something so simple but yet have a great impact of the aesthetic of a wheel.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Centre Cap x4 (for facelifted wheels)
Part Number: 44732-S2A-921
Supplier: Htune
Web: www.Htune.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 16 - Treat all Roof/Door/Boot Seals with Shin-Etsui Silicon Grease
03-06-2018
One of the most recommended tasks for any s2000 owner is to treat all rubber seals with the Honda Shin Etsui grease.
This is a relatively simple task and just involves working the grease into the rubber seals, this moistens up the rubber and stops it from drying out which can lead to poor sealing and water leaking.
All seals were treated including:
-All roof seals
-Apillar seals
-Door seals
-Boot seals
-Front edge Bonnet seal
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hond Shin Etsui Grease
Part Number: 087989013
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 17 - Clutch Change/Valve Clearances/Brake Overhaul & Remaining Fluids Change
@ Performance Autoworks
04-06-2018
One of the main issues with the s2000 was the clutch. Having done approx 87k miles and with it being an early s2000 the clutch had seen better days.
There was also the early technical service bulletin (TSB) present on my s2000 called clutch buzz.
The clutch operation would be fine with only a buzzing sound present when decelerating, most s2000 owners with the issue tend to live with it until the time a clutch change is required.
This occurs when decelerating from 2nd or 3rd gear, a buzzing sound would be present.
The root cause of this were the friction disc plate springs vibrating at high rotational speeds.
I thought it would be an ideal time to get the clutch replaced with the revised genuine part, Rich also advised that the clutch release fork should also be replaced as these can significantly wear too.
Along with the clutch I also decided to get Performance Autoworks to perform a complete brake overhaul. With the car having sat around for many years, the callipers, mainly the rears were seized on and the discs were pretty rusted, they weren't the best brand either being pajid. The brake fluid was near enough a brown colour too.
Another TSB on my s2000 was the rear axle nut. This involved the current axle nut torque setting not being sufficient/tight enough. The results from this would be a clicking sound at low speeds.
Thankfully my s2000 did not have this issue but I thought it would be a good idea to get the axle nuts torque to the revised settings.
Valve clearances are very important on the F20 engine, this was on the agenda including fitting of a new refurbed rocker and spark plug cover refurbed by "spooner restorations".
I also included brand new genuine Honda gaskets and spark plug washer seals.
I also decided to get Rich at Performance Autoworks to perform other little jobs below
Including the above:
Major Re-work
-Replace clutch and fork
-Fit new rocker cover including new gaskets/seals and top rocker washers
-Adjust Valve clearances
-Check valve retainers for cracks (cracks can be caused by over revving)
-Check and if required tighten up rear axle nuts (TSB)
-Replace front/rear callipers
-Replace front rear brake discs and pads
Remaining Fluids Change
-Flush and replace coolant
-Flush and replace brake fluid
-Flush and replace clutch fluid
-Flush and replace transmission fluid - MTF3
-Flush and replace rear differential fluid
Other Work
-Replace a missing heat shield fastening bolt
-Replace firewall brake pipe holders.
Overall the re-work above went well, Rich at Performance Autoworks did have a little trouble with one of the main sub frame bolts which can be pretty troublesome. However it came out without any major trouble.
Quite amazing despite the year of the car and with it being standing outside for many years.
The new clutch feels amazing, a lovely soft feel and with the transmission fluid replaced the shift action now feels incredible. Slots into all gears smoothly and is a joy to use.
Original clutch worn down to its rivets.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Kit (3 piece)
Part Number: 22105-PCX-325
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Release Fork
Part Number: 08CLA-G01-6S0
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Discs
Part Number: 45251-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Discs
Part Number: 42510-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Pads
Part Number: 45022-S2A-E51
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Pads
Part Number: 06430-S2A-E50
Part: Front Brake Calipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4714 (Left) BCA4715 (Right)
Part: Rear Brake Callipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4726 (Left) BCA4727 (Right)
Part: Genuine Honda HYpoid HG0 Diff Fluid (x1 litre)
Part Number: 08294-P99-01HE
Part: Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant (x5 litres)
Part Number: 22820-PCY-000
Part: Genuine Honda MTF3 Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: 082679-990-2HE
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: Castrol React
Part: Genuine Honda Map Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125-PCX-003
Part: Genuine Honda Firewall Brake Line Clips
Part Number: 46396-S84-A01
Part: Genuine Honda Rocker Cover Gasket Kit
Part Number: 12040-PCX-305
Part: Genuine Honda Spark Plug Seals
Part Number: 12342-PCX-004
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performance-Autowor...
Spooner Restorations
Contact: Paul Flaxton
Tel: 07515881784
Email: paulflaxton@googlemail.com
http://www.spoonerrestorations.co.uk
Resources used
None
Task 18 - Brake Calliper Carrier Paint
16-06-2018
After the major brake overhaul at Performance Autoworks the calliper carriers needed a refresh against the newly refurbished brake callipers.
Factory silver was the obvious choice, removing the calliper carrier and having them sent off for powder coating was the ideal way to go.
Unfortunately my home setup won't allow the car to be left on axle stands whilst this occurs. So this was done the old fashioned way.
A quick wire brush to the carriers and a paint brush application of silver Hammerite paint.
All 4 calliper carriers were done very quickly and with pretty good results.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Silver Hammerite Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Homebase (Any DIY Store)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 19 - Xenon Bulb Replacement
16-06-2018
The next task was to replace the passenger side front non working xenon low beam headlight.
The front low beams of the s2000 feature xenon HID lighting from the factory.
The bulb fitment and type is: D2S
After a quick look on s2ki forum for a how to guide, it seemed pretty straight forward.
Although straight forward to replace the bulbs, it involved removing the front wheels and arch liner for complete access. This was ideal so a good glimpse can be had within this area.
Everything seemed to be intact, although the passenger side HID ballast had been replaced with a non genuine type. Most likely the original ballast went faulty at some point.
Although fully functional I would get this replaced with a genuine module sometime in the future.
The bulb replacement went well, the previous bulbs were a much higher colour temperature.
Most likely 5000 kelvin. The bulbs were a non branded type and most likely of poor quality.
Original Osram 4300 kelvin bulbs were installed for the factory illumination and appearance.
5000k Xenons Bulbs on the left removed and the osram 4300k Xenon bulbs installed on the right
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Original Xenarc 4150K D2S Xenon bulbs
Part Number: 66240 (x2)
Supplier: Ebay - Upgrade Bulbs
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "HID Xenon Bulb Replacement Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 20 - Paint Rear of Exhaust Silencer
16-06-2018
The rear sections of the exhaust silencers were looking rather flaky. Most of the OEM black paint has started to flake away over the years.
This is quite a eye sore when looking back at the car.
A quick coat of VHT (Very high temperature) paint was the quick solution here.
The rear of the silencers were quickly rubbed down to remove any flaky old paint and provide a good surface for the paint to adhere too.
A couple coats of the VHT matt black paint immediately improved the overall appearance.
Great result.
Before
After
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hycote VHT Matt Black Paint 400ml
Part Number: UK1001
Supplier: Ebay - Agrauto Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 21 - Under Seal Arches
16-06-2018
Most of the factory underseal around the arches had worn away and with the car being stood around for a fair few years the suspension arms had become rather rusty.
With the arch liners having already been removed on the previous stages, it was a good opportunity to underseal the arches.
A quick hose down with my portable battery jet wash cleaned away alot of the dirt, grime and debris.
This provided a good clean surface for the underseal treatment to adhere too.
Having no mains power or compressor systems available to me, I needed a quick solution for application.
The aerosol version of the Dinitrol underbody sealant wax was ideal. The Dinitrol 4914.
Easy spray on provided hassle free application with a quick masking of areas that are not required to be coated.
The results were fantastic and certainly improved the appearance of the arches, the coating should provide many years of protection on our UK roads.
The arch liners were re-installed with new fastener clips.
(New fastener clips are highly recommended due to most of the original old ones crumbling away upon removal) A pack of x50 fasteners were purchased from the below seller and were excellent value and high quality.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax Sealant - Aerosol Spray On Type (500ml)
Part Number: 4941 (DA1996)
Supplier: Ebay - MPS trading
Part: Arch Liner Splash Guard trim Fastener Clips
Part Number: 91501-S04-003
Supplier: Ebay - byronix
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 22 - Honda Jazz Washer Jet Upgrade
16-06-2018
The windscreen washers on the s2000 from standard are pretty poor. They shoot two burst of water jets at the windshield and are pretty inefficient.
The Honda Jazz washer jets provide a mist spray and not only does it look great it also provides an excellent spray coverage of the windshield.
This upgrade is very common and usually performed on many Honda's of the 90's as it is literally a 5 minute plug and play job.
However, upon installing my set of Honda Jazz washer jets, it was found that the drivers washer jet was very weak.
Upon disassembling and inspecting all the hoses it was found that the one way valve on the driver's side jet had become faulty. The one way valve from Honda was over £15.00. I am all for using genuine parts, however this is alittle over priced for such a tiny and simple component.
It is an easy access component so a cheaper generic part is ideal.
Once the one way valve was purchased and installed, the jazz washer jets performed as they should.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Jazz Washer Jet (genuine Honda)
Part Number: 76810-SEA-A01
Supplier: Ebay - Tegiwa
Part: One Way Valve for Windscreen Washer
Part Number: N/A (unbranded)
Supplier: Ebay - Autopower online
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Lings Honda Part Diagram Explosions
https://www.lingshondaparts.com/cars/car-parts.htm...
Task 23 - Brand New Wheel Nuts
16-06-2018
The final touch for the wheel area was to add a set of brand new wheel nuts. The original wheel nuts were in a very poor state. An attempt to wire brush them was unsuccessful.
A brand new set was purchased from a Honda dealer on eBay due to a special offer.
The size purchased was the 25mm height nuts.
(Honda also do the 30mm height which would stick out too much)
Once the wheels were ready to go on, the new nuts were installed with a hint of copper grease to the inner threads.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Nuts 25mm Height Type (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 90304-SA5-013
Supplier: Ebay - Crown Honda Bushey (Honda Dealer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 24 - Replacement Wheel Locking Nuts
16-06-2018
The original Honda wheel locking nuts currently on the car were really past their best.
The surface of most of the locks had completely rusted over. It would be a good time to have them replaced and avoiding that embarrassing situation where the wheel locks disintegrates when attempting to remove them.
A genuine good condition Honda lock set was found on eBay saving me a good amount from buying new.
All of the old nuts were removed successfully with no issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Alloy Wheel Locks (Genuine Honda) (2nd Hand)
Part Number: 08W42-S1A-600
Supplier: Ebay - Private Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 25 - Replacement Windscreen Wipers
16-06-2018
Another quick job was to replace the windscreen wipers, the current ones were pretty tired and were upgraded to the those flat aero type wipers by the previous owner.
Not being keen on the retro after market flat aero type unless originally fitted as standard, this is because the retro fit ones don't look great as they usually have a large lump where the wiper arm connects to it.
After a quick glance at original wiper sizes for the s2000, being 16" driver and 20" passenger a cheap set of Bosch super plus standard wipers were ordered.
Once fitted It I decided to fit the 20" wiper to the driver's side which provided a much cleaner sweep.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bosch Super Plus Wiper Blades (pair)
Part Number: 16" and 20" Sizes
Supplier: Ebay - Parts_monster
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Wiper Sizes Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 26 - Handsfree Kit Solution
16-06-2018
I wanted a hands free kit in the s2000 but I did not want to change the standard original head unit. The s2000 featured the original Honda cassette head unit with its CD changer in the boot.
It is a very dated system but the CD changer and headunit operates perfectly.
I wanted to retain all of this but I needed the added feature of Bluetooth hands free for that odd telephone call within the car.
My brother shared a solution which he uses in his Honda Jazz.
The device is called "Supertooth Buddy" a simple small device which attaches and clips to the sun visor.
It has its own built in battery and pretty much a standalone unit with no hard wiring of any cables.
This was the perfect solution, easy to use, long lasting battery life, fantastic sound quality and great value of money.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bluetooth Handsfree Kit
Part Number: Supertooth buddy
Supplier: Ebay - vodaphone store (special offer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 27 - Replace Dash Cluster Blanking Switch
16-06-2018
One of the dash blanking switch covers in the car was used to house a Clifford alarm system valet switch.
With the alarm system now being a Toad, this valet switch is no surplus to requirements.
The previous owner drilled a hole in this blanking switch to house the valet switch so this switch plate is now redundant.
A quick email to Holdcroft Honda for the part at a great price it was soon on order and arrived in great time.
A quick and easy replacement
Parts Purchased:
Part: Right Side Dash Cluster Blanking Switch Plate
Part Number: 77208-S2A-003ZA
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth.rees@holdcroft.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 28 - Add Security Window Stickers
14-07-2018
With the alarm installed successfully at an earlier stage, the s2000 did not have any window security labels.
Security labels on the windows do act as a deterent so they do serve a purpose.
Due to the car not having a factory alarm originally (due to it being an early s2000), no factory secutiy labels were present on the windows.
The alarm installed is a Toad AI606 system and their included labels in my opinion were not very nice.
I looked at original Honda secutiy labels installed on the later s2000 models, they were subtle, promimnent and of course genuine Honda. haha! So I decieded to go for them.
They were easy to install on the inside rear corner of the windows. The window was cleaned using some IPA solution to ensure an oil and grease free surface before application.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Security Window Labels x2
Part Number: 39885-S5A-G11
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 29 - New Tyres
15-07-2018
One of the more expensive jobs I have to do on the s2000 are tyres.
The rear tyres on the s2000 are getting extremely low on the inner edge, with the brand name of the tyre being a budget type it was more reason to get them changed.
The front tyres had some good thread left (around 4mm) but I thought it would be best to get a fresh new set on.
Various research into the best tyre for the s2000 spanned various brands but the one brand that came out as being a good all rounder was the Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric.
Now in its version 3 model this seemed a wise safe choice for price, comfort, confidence for that spirited drive and perhaps that rare track day.
I went for the OEM standard sizes:
Fronts: 215-45-R17 (XL load)
Rears: 245-40-R17 (XL load)
My local protyre garage are very good and a quick visit to their website, an order was placed for supply and fitting in the next couple days.
The rims were cleaned prior to fitting the new tyres, it was apparent that the existing tyres have been on the rims for quite some time. All tyres mounted well with no hidden issues with the rims.
The alignment will be performed separately at a later stage as these cars are notoriously known for the geo bolts to be seized up.
The new tyres provides the s2000 with a smooth drive and fantastic grip when pushed around the corners.
The good year Asymmetric 3 tyres are definitely highly recommended.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Rear Tyres 245/40R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Part: Front Tyres 215/45R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Services Used:
Protyre (Tyre Fitting Garage)
Tyres ordered via their online website
(Always check for discount/promo codes before checkout)
www.protyre.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 30 - Facelift s2000 Suspension Upgrade
20-08-2018
When the s2000 was at Performance Autoworks for the major clutch change and other service jobs, Rich mentioned that the rear left damper made a slight pattering sound when going over uneven roads.
The internal gas within the dampers can leak over time which causes this sound. The dampers become weaker hence upsetting the handling slightly.
He stated that I upgrade to a nice set of coilovers or a good second hand facelift s2000 suspension set when budget allows.
I was able to find a nice 2004 facelift suspension set on the s2ki forum.
Massive thanks to Grant on the s2ki forum, he supplied me the set at an amazing price
Upon receipt of the kit, it all looked good.
The suspension set was given a good clean and a quick coat of black hammerite paint to freshen it up
For the installation I wanted to give it a go myself, but I called up an old mechanic family friend to assist me.
I am really glad I had the help as there would be no way I could have performed this on my own.
The rear suspension was the hardest to fit, with the rear stabilizer bracket being a pain to re-install.
The rear lower control arms had to be really pushed down to able to remove the damper assembly.
There was alot of tension held within the rear sway bar.
Removing the rear left top suspension bolts was tricky due to it being underneath the fuel piping.
After several hours (5 hours to be exact) the suspension set was installed
After a quick test drive, the pattering was gone and being the face lifted version of the suspension set it feels much softer and the comfort levels have noticeably increased.
The handling has much improved and gives a much more inspired confidence to the handling of the car.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Facelift 2004-2009 Front/Rear Suspension Damper and Spring Assembly
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Second hand Purchase (s2ki Forum)
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
None
Task 31 - s2000 Second Photo shoot
25-08-2018
The August bank holiday gave an opportunity to have a second photoshoot for the s2000.
This is how she stands presently.
I acquired a Honda s2000 last year after lusting after one of these for 20 years.
(ever since they were released)
In my current situation, and having sold my 1999 Prelude 2.2vti for personal reasons it was now or never to own one.
I am a loyal Honda fan, and have pretty much owned Honda's throughout my 20 year driving career, with a few exceptions.
(1999 - 2002) - 2nd driver on my dad's 1994 1.6 Toyota Carina E
(2002 - 2005) - My First Car: 1994 Honda Civic, 3 door, 1.3 Dx (D13B2)
(2005 - 2010) - 2000 Honda Civic, 2 door coupe, 1.6 SOHC (D16Y7)
(2010 - 2016) - 1999 Honda Prelude, 2 door coupe, 2.2 vti (H22A8 red top)
(2010 - 2014) - 2000 Seat Arosa, 3 door Hatch, 1.7 SDI diesel (daily commuter)
(2014 - present) - 2006 Honda Accord, 4 door saloon, 2.2 i-ctdi (N22A) Diesel
(Still currently in ownership - My daily commuter)
@ 198k miles with original clutch, timing chain, turbo and exhaust system
(2018 - present) - 1999 Honda s2000, 2 door convertible, 2 litre (F20C) - AP1
I've always tried to do most of the work on my car's myself throughout the years, and have learnt so much about cars in general. Not having a garage or driveway, it does however limit what I tackle though.
Due to their current prices, my budget could only allow for the pre-face version.
The s2000 is an early 1999 model, there are a few things that need addressing due to it being stood around for many years but overall it is in great condition.
It's going to make for an interesting project.
I thought I would share my experiences and the journey throughout my s2000 ownership. I have tried to document each task with as much detail as possible.
So beware, it's a long read which I hope you will enjoy.
I will keep this thread updated.
My s2000 journey begins.
The Purchase
04-04-2018
When they first came out back in 1999, I knew one day I had to have one. However, over the past several years their values have been steadily increasing with a facelift 2005 model now reaching around £13k.
It always seems true, when your after something nothing pops up and when you’re not they are always plentiful.
At the time, not many s2000’s were up for sale. It may be due to the time of year or just my bad luck.
I managed to view over 4 S2000's, even one from a Honda dealer which didn’t even go into reverse gear properly.
I realised that most S2000's out there are actually in quite poor condition. People tend to buy them, keep them for a year or so and then sell them on to gain from its increase in value.
With that, anything over 10k was over my budget. I then started to look at the older pre-facelift models.
I managed to find and bag one for a really cheap price due to it needing some work, however overall it is in great shape.
The body is in good condition and the car does feature original facelift version 2 alloys.
The seller was great guy and we managed to get a deal sorted, I paid a deposit and me and a friend picked it up a week later.
The driving experience is so different to any Honda I have driven, the rawness of the S2000 coupled with its superb gearbox and that 9k RPM limit engine makes you feel like you're in a racing car.
When you push that engine and work those gears the car just puts a smile on your face every time.
The previous owner has had the car standing for quite some time, the usual suspects need addressing.
This includes:
-Flaky rocker cover
-Brake discs and pads
-Seized rear callipers
-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill
-Clutch is slightly worn
-Will need a fresh service (all fluids)
No plans for any major modifications, the car will be more of a project restoration with the odd genuine OEM accessory upgrade.
Shortly after purchase on the 04-04-18, the work began on project 2000.
I had a good look over the car and created a list of the areas that needed addressing.
This list was quite extensive but I began with the basics first.
Task 1 - Alarm Install
14-04-2018
The first task on the agenda was to install a CAT 1 alarm system, due to the s2000 being a pre 2001 model it only came with a factory immobilizer with central locking. No factory alarm system was present.
The system I selected was a Toad AI606 system, previously used on my 1999 Honda Prelude and proved to be a reliable easy to use simple system. There was only one person in my mind to have this installed.
This was Rakesh from RD electrics, he installed the same system on my Prelude and the craftsmanship and quality of his work was top notch.
Rakesh did a fantastic job and I can't recommend him enough, the install was straight forward and went smoothly.
Due to the age of the car, all door pin switches were also removed and cleaned to avoid the alarm going off accidently. The door pin switches had some slight corrosion but all cleaned up well with their connectors all intact and in excellent condition.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Alarm System Kit
Part Number: TOAD AI606
Supplier: Supplied by Rakesh
Services Used:
R&D Electrics (Alarm Install Services)
Contact: Rakesh
Mobile: 077395-40000
Email: rakesh6466@sky.com
https://en-gb.facebook.com/fonz6466/
Resources used
None
Task 2 - Basic Oil Service
14-04-2018
The next task was to perform a basic service on the s2000, this was performed straight after the alarm install.
All filters used were genuine Honda.
This included:
-Oil change using 5w 40 (Oil chosen was the Motul 5w/40 x-cess)
-Oil filter
-Air filter
-Pollen filter
-Spark Plugs
The other fluids, i.e, Coolant, Transmission, Diff, Brake and Clutch will be performed later.
Changing the oil on the s2000 was surprising quite easy, the oil filter is easily accessible with the air filter being right in front of the engine bay within a large air box.
The pollen filter is located under the front windshield scuttle panel and was a breeze to change over.
Replacing the spark plugs were relatively easy, the existing spark plugs looked in good condition and showed that the engine has been performing ok. Spark plugs were tighten using the revised torque specifications.
I decided to go for the iridium type spark plugs instead of the platinum type for better longevity.
Overall a very pleasant and enjoyable task, being classic Honda design everything was easily accessible.
Parts Purchased
Part: Engine Oil (Motul 5w/50 x-cess)
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Engine Oil Filter (Genuine Honda) (Also included sump drain washer)
Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Air Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 17220-PCX-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Pollen Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 79831-S2A-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: NGK Spark Plugs (Iridium)
Part Number: IFR7G-11KS
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Oil Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Air filter Change
https://howtune.com/articles/97-replace-the-air-fi...
You Tube Video: Pollen filter change
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHylusRKJV4
Task 3 - Engine Bay Deep Clean
22-04-2018
The next task after the basic service was to perform a deep clean on the engine bay.
Initially the engine bay wasn't too bad but there were definite signs that the car had been sat around for a long while. It would also be a good opportunity to have a good in-depth view around the engine bay to see if anything required addressing.
I began by removing the battery and hoovering up all the debris in that corner, the process consisted of a bottled spray gun filled with fairy liquid and water, a tooth brush and an old unused paint brush.
Whilst I was around the battery area, I unbolted both grounding cables and wire brushed them to remove all the corrosion I could.
The air box was also removed and all chassis sections inspected and cleaned.
Due to the age of the car there are areas, fixtures and fittings that have rusted slightly but overall it is a vast improvement to the overall look of the engine bay.
The rocker cover will be replaced with a newly refurbished one which is on order and will be fitted very soon.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 4 - Front Door Speaker Check & Revert Back To Originals
05-05-2018
During a drive I noticed that the sound output from the passenger side speaker became slightly intermittent on certain occasions, mainly during uneven road surfaces.
A quick peer into the speaker grills reveal that the original speakers have been replaced by some JBL types.
Due to this upgrade and the intermittent sound issue I was concerned that the DIY speaker upgrade from the previous owner may have been performed poorly.
The speakers will be reverted back to originals, however the original speakers for this model of s2000 were the paper cone type. These seem hard to come by, therefore the later blue coned type speakers were purchased as these are plentiful on the 2nd hand market and perform much better.
A good condition pair of later spec blue coned original s2000 speakers were purchased.
The door cards were swiftly removed and the quality of the JBL speaker install became apparent. The JBL speakers were fitted to the original Honda speaker baskets which was quite impressive. The original speaker loom and connectors were all still intact which was a relief. The previous owner connected the JBl speakers to the original connectors using modified spade connectors hence the poor contact. All this was poorly wrapped generously with electrical tape.
With all that removed, the install of the original s2000 speakers was clean and swift, with connectors being cleaned up and some multipurpose grease added to the connector contacts to prevent any corrosion.
The rest of the door assembly was inspected with no other areas having been touched or modified. Even the original door sheet membrane still intact and untouched.
The sound from the original speakers are surprisingly good and very happy with the results.
Speaker Purchased
Door Card Removed Showing JBL Speaker Setup
Poor Quality of Wiring Connection but Original Connector and Loom Intact and not modified
Original Speakers Installed
Parts Purchased
Part: Original s2000 Speakers
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay Purchase (2nd Hand)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 5 - Modifry Bracket Phone Holder
05-05-2018
One of problems with the s2000 in today's modern age is that there are not many options or suitable places within the cabin to mount your mobile phone.
With various online searches there was always one brand/design that was mentioned.
This design came from a company based in the states and goes by the name of Modifry.
Bob at Modifry specially designed a bracket mount which installs on the side of the dash cluster.
The item is quite pricey (being in the uk) for a bit of metal but this seemed to be the perfect solution to all s2000 owners and I can see why it is so popular.
With the product coming from the states, it does mean expensive shipping costs, slightly longer shipping time and the potential of customs duty tax being charged upon entering the UK.
To my amazement, the package came within 5 days and no duty was charged
Upon opening the package it came with some instructions and all pieces individually wrapped in their plastic bags. I also ordered their universal phone holder as it attaches neatly to the bracket using the supplied screws.
The install was pretty straight forward with only the cutting of the excess plastic trim being quite tricky due to the fear of slipping and damaging the interior. Taking it slow with a sharp craft knife was the key here and in no time the trim was neatly cut.
If the bracket was ever removed in the future, none of the cut trim will be seen when re-assembled.
The bracket and phone holder was soon attached, extra phone grippers were also purchased to further hold the phone in its cradle - I would highly recommend them if your phone is as big or bigger than a Samsung Galaxy S6.
Overall a great bit of kit, the cradle and bracket are stable at high speeds and on rough roads. It keeps the phone in place and does not move around.
There are a few issues that I have found:
-The phone holder does sit quite low and on the occasional gear change you can hit the phone/bracket assembly.
-If you have the phone charging, the cable exits on the bottom of my phone and therefore will hinder your gear changing.
-Due to the phones position when mounted, you can get reflection/glare from the phone screen, but twisting the phone slightly towards the driver can eliminate this.
However, despite these issues it is nice to have a place to mount your phone when driving the s2000 albeit slightly on the pricey side.
The Kit
Install
Finished
Parts Purchased
Part: Modifry Dash Bracket
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Universal Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Additional Phone Grippers for Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYguys You tube Video (Modifry Bracket Install Guide)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2sjoCC6c4o
Task 6 - Interior Deep Clean
05-05-2018
Whilst staying within the interior, the next task was to perform a deep clean of the interior. Being a convertible, the interior would have been exposed to lots of dirt and grime over the years.
The job began by removing all the top layer carpets and hoovering the main carpets thoroughly, this included all hard to reach areas behind and under the seats.
After the carpets were hoovered, they were scrubbed using an interior type brush and autoglym interior shampoo. The results from this was fresher looking and smelling carpets.
The next stage was to clean the dash cluster, all the buttons were individually cleaned using autoglym interior shampoo and a toothbrush. Removing all dirt and grime around each button.
The results were shockingly good, with the dash cluster looking really fresh and clean, the vents were also cleaned using a detailing brush.
The stereo system was mainly untouched and in fabulous condition with the original Honda cassette stereo still in place, further inspection reveals that the stereo has never been removed. No marks or scratches are present anywhere around the fascia or surround trim panels. The original CD changer is still in the boot and in full operational order.
The old tax disc holder was still present and was removed, the adhesive remains cleaned using IPA.
Both seats were brushed and megauries leather treatment was applied to them to help restore its texture and finish.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 7 - Soft Top Striker Modification
12-05-2018
At higher motorway speeds, my s2000's roof tends to leak some wind noise.
The soft top roof on my s2000 had been replaced by the previous owner so it is not the original one, however upon reading a few threads there is a modification that can be performed to help reduce the wind noise from a roof that does not sit 100% flush with the windshield edge.
The OEM solution is to install the hardtop strikers, these are similar to the soft top striker plates but are much thicker. Priced at around £40 ish each, they are quite pricey.
I thought I would give the washer modification a try considering it is a quick and cheap solution.
The relevant interior trim all unclipped with ease with the help of "DIYguys" fantastic video.
The M6 washers (x2 per screw) and longer M6 machine screw were fitted and the soft top strikers re-installed.
As a result, the soft top strikers clamps the roof much tighter, on a road test the wind noise has pretty much been eliminated.
A fantastic result.
This solution may not work and will depend on how worn out your roof or existing strikers are but it is highly worth trying before purchasing the hard top striker versions.
Parts Purchased
Part: M6 x25mm Machine Screw with (1mm pitch thread)
Part Number: M6x25
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: M6 Form C Washer
Part Number: M6 Washers
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY guys youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 8 - Hard Top Brackets Installation
19-05-2018
One of the items on my wish list for the s2000 is a hardtop roof.
I was unfortunate to find a GT version of the s2000 that already came with a hardtop roof.
However, long before owning an s2000 I was able to find a set of hardtop roof brackets. They popped up on ebay at a great price so I snapped them up.
The thought here, if I didn't buy an s2000 they could be sold on pretty easily.
By installing the hardtop brackets now it would be ready for a hardtop if one popped up second hand in the future.
I studied the Honda hard top instructions manual and the fitting of the brackets seem relatively straight forward.
The kit I purchased came with the modified plastic trim sections with the hardtop version brushes, I began by removing the various trim pieces from behind the front seats.
Then removing the quarter panel plastic trim pieces.
This exposed the inner metal sections where the brackets are to be fitted.
The install was quick and simple along with re-assembly.
It would be much easier if the seats were removed although I didn't have that luxury due to performing car work on a side street.
My s2000 is an early model and therefore does not have the rear heated window wiring and loom.
This can be added later if I desire, perhaps if a hardtop is purchased I will look into purchasing the rear heater demister loom and switch.
A great result and now ready for a hardtop
Parts Purchased
Part: Right Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Right Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Honda Instructions Manual for Hardtop Installation
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
Task 9 - Deep Clean Boot/Trunk
19-05-2018
The next area that required a good clean and check was the boot area.
This would allow me to check all aspects of the boot, including the spare tyre. It also allowed me to check the base of the boot to see if any standing water was present underneath the tool box section.
Tasks included
-Remove spare tyre
-Check spare tyre condition and pump up to recommend pressure
-Check spare tyre recess and clean as required
-Clean all boot oem tools and check condition and function of car jack
-Hoover and clean all interior trim pieces
-Remove rubber boot seal on top edge and check of rust or broken paint
(Touch up as required)
Once the spare wheel was removed, I had a good look through into the rear of the car and it all seemed pretty clean.
No signs of any water leaks which meant the hood water drains were ok and no water was entering the boot area.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 10 - Amber Side Lights
19-05-2018
I have always liked the look of amber side lights, so this gave me an opportunity to swap over the 501 capless side bulbs in the headlamps with osram amber versions.
The install was rather tricky due to limited access. The arch liners had to be completely peeled away to gain access to the rear of the headlamp.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Amber 501 Capless Bulbs
Part Number: xxxxxxxx
Supplier: Amazon
Web: www.Amazon.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Forum thread
Xenon bulb headlight replacement Guide
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 11 - Throttle Body , IACV, MAP Sensor and PCV Valve Clean
(Also Map Sensor Bracket Strap Install)
30-05-2018
Most s2000's suffer from the rpm rev dip issue usually upon a blip of the throttle. According to threads and other s2000 owners this is a common issue with s2000's. The main culprit is usually the IACV (intake air control valve) this is quite an expensive component but usually with a good clean you can resolve the issue. I also intend to clean out a few other components too.
To begin, the negative battery terminal was disconnected.
IACV Valve
Again, using DIYguys excellent youtube video guide, the process was straight forward. I actually removed the component by disconnecting the coolant hose feeds and lifting it away. I found it alot easier to clean the IACV valve with the component out. Once the component was out there was significant carbon build up inside the chambers.
A good clean with a cotton ear bud and brake cleaner the IACV valve was looking as good as new. The motor assembly was also removed which allowed the internal flap to be properly cleaned, I also ensured this flap rotated smoothly.
MAP sensor and PCV valve
Whilst the IACV was out the MAP sensor and PCV valve was also cleaned.
The PCV valve was removed from the rocker cover and sprayed with brake cleaner. With a good shake of the PCV valve the rattle noise was still present within the component which indicates the PCV valve is in good working order. The MAP sensor was cleaned with CRC spray due to being a much sensitive component. It is not recommended to clean the MAP sensor with brake cleaner.
Throttle Body
Another task on the agenda was to clean the throttle body, from inspecting the fixings it is apparent that the throttle body has never been removed or cleaned. The process was relatively easy with just a few hoses being a little tricky to remove due to its age and never being touched.
Once removed the butterfly was inspected, the amount of carbon build up was quite significant.
A thorough clean with brake cleaner including all the ports was performed. The internals of the throttle body was looking fantastic.
Vtec Solenoid
The last task was to remove, inspect and clean the vtec solenoid. Easy access being at the front side of the engine block, removal consisted of three bolts so it was a breeze to remove.
Once removed, it was inspected, the chamber with the mesh in front had no metallic debris which is an excellent sign and proves no metal shavings or debris have been floating around the engine for any reason.
The part looked in excellent shape, a quick clean using brake cleaner it was re-installed back in no time. All surrounding areas of the vtec solenoid was cleaned also.
Re-assembly and Map Sensor bracket Strap Install
Once I was happy that the IACV, PCV valve, throttle body and MAP sensor was cleaned, the re-assembly process began. Everything all went back together as easy as they were to remove.
The MAP sensor bracket strap was also purchased and installed.
This was a Honda TSB (technical service bulletin) which resolved a potential issue of hesitation upon hard acceleration. The root cause was down to the MAP sensor electrical connector becoming loose. The strap ensures the connector is fully secured with no movement.
I didn't experience this issue but I thought it would be good practice to eliminate the possibility of it ever occurring.
Once everything was back together, the battery was re-connected and DIYguys ECU relearn procedure was performed.
The results were fantastic, the throttle response was alot smoother and the rev dip was almost but eliminated. Due to the nature of the s2000 it will probably return but for now the efforts above are well worth it.
Parts Purchased
Part: MAP Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125PCX003
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth@HH.com
Part: Brake Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Web: www.eurocarparts.com
Part: CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY Guys IACV Cleaning guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWtNORKhOJ0
DIY Guys ECU relearn procedure
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUMDzCvONTs
Task 12 - Four Piece Genuine Honda Mats Installation
31-05-2018
The interior of the s2000 is generally a lovely place to be. However the only item in the cabin that lets it down are the previous owners mat set. They seem to well used and an aftermarket type.
Honda still offers the JDM type 4 piece mat set, pretty pricey but in my opinion well worth it.
I decided to get the black set for a nice contrast against the red main carpet and seats.
Upon installation, it was soon discovered that due to my s2000 being an early model the fixings for this type of mat set do not exist.
However, due to the placement and design of the mat set, which utilizes a special bracket which sits over the chassis cross member this helps to keep the mat set in place without any modification.
Once installed they look fantastic.
A worthy upgrade to any s2000 interior.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda 4 Piece Mat Set
Part Number: 08P16S2A510A
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "mats install"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 13 - Water Leak into Drivers Foot well
31-05-2018
A couple days this week saw some heavy rainfall and whilst installing the mat set in the previous task it was noticed that the main carpet on the driver's side foot well was quite wet.
This was quite a concern as water leaking into the cabin is never a good thing. Moisture from the water can cause bad smells, invoke rust and cause mould and bacteria growth if left unnoticed.
I began to look online to see if anyone experienced a similar issue, most water leak cases for the s2000 occurs on poor soft top hood drainage which results in water leaks in the boot. However I did stumble across a thread on s2ki where an individual investigated the same problem that I was experiencing.
The root cause was the water seal gasket on the rubber drainage trim on the A-pillar. The gasket directs the water flow outwards into the door recess areas. With this particular gasket being worn away from its position it would allow water to flow directly downwards and into the area behind the bonnet release catch. See images below, notice that the gasket has moved away from its adhesive location and allow water to pass by.
This rubber trim piece seems to be a complete part which fits the entire windshield. Replacing it would either be quite expensive and or a pain to remove and replace.
In its current state the trim piece is still in good condition so it I decided to go down the repair route.
The old gasket section was removed and its area fully cleaned.
In order to replace this gasket, silicon sealant was used. This provided a good high quality long lasting reliable seal. This was applied on the same location as the old gasket, the trim piece was re-installed with the silicon left to cure.
So far no water has leaked into the cabin, a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dow Corning Clear Silicon Sealant 78g
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay - Sealants and Tools Direct
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Water leak investigation"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/wa...
Task 14 - S2000 First Photo Shoot
02-06-2018
After the above tasks, there was an opportunity to perform a quick photo shoot of the s2000.
We found some lovely roads in Hertfordshire for a great drive and some photos.
Task 15 - Fit New Centre Caps to Wheels
03-06-2018
With the s2000 having facelift v2 wheels they came with unofficial centre caps which did not do the wheels any justice.
I wanted the original Honda centre caps but for the face lifted wheels they were quite pricey. Although they were still available to purchase from Honda.
I decided to go for them and once installed, it totally transformed the look of the wheel.
Something so simple but yet have a great impact of the aesthetic of a wheel.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Centre Cap x4 (for facelifted wheels)
Part Number: 44732-S2A-921
Supplier: Htune
Web: www.Htune.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 16 - Treat all Roof/Door/Boot Seals with Shin-Etsui Silicon Grease
03-06-2018
One of the most recommended tasks for any s2000 owner is to treat all rubber seals with the Honda Shin Etsui grease.
This is a relatively simple task and just involves working the grease into the rubber seals, this moistens up the rubber and stops it from drying out which can lead to poor sealing and water leaking.
All seals were treated including:
-All roof seals
-Apillar seals
-Door seals
-Boot seals
-Front edge Bonnet seal
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hond Shin Etsui Grease
Part Number: 087989013
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 17 - Clutch Change/Valve Clearances/Brake Overhaul & Remaining Fluids Change
@ Performance Autoworks
04-06-2018
One of the main issues with the s2000 was the clutch. Having done approx 87k miles and with it being an early s2000 the clutch had seen better days.
There was also the early technical service bulletin (TSB) present on my s2000 called clutch buzz.
The clutch operation would be fine with only a buzzing sound present when decelerating, most s2000 owners with the issue tend to live with it until the time a clutch change is required.
This occurs when decelerating from 2nd or 3rd gear, a buzzing sound would be present.
The root cause of this were the friction disc plate springs vibrating at high rotational speeds.
I thought it would be an ideal time to get the clutch replaced with the revised genuine part, Rich also advised that the clutch release fork should also be replaced as these can significantly wear too.
Along with the clutch I also decided to get Performance Autoworks to perform a complete brake overhaul. With the car having sat around for many years, the callipers, mainly the rears were seized on and the discs were pretty rusted, they weren't the best brand either being pajid. The brake fluid was near enough a brown colour too.
Another TSB on my s2000 was the rear axle nut. This involved the current axle nut torque setting not being sufficient/tight enough. The results from this would be a clicking sound at low speeds.
Thankfully my s2000 did not have this issue but I thought it would be a good idea to get the axle nuts torque to the revised settings.
Valve clearances are very important on the F20 engine, this was on the agenda including fitting of a new refurbed rocker and spark plug cover refurbed by "spooner restorations".
I also included brand new genuine Honda gaskets and spark plug washer seals.
I also decided to get Rich at Performance Autoworks to perform other little jobs below
Including the above:
Major Re-work
-Replace clutch and fork
-Fit new rocker cover including new gaskets/seals and top rocker washers
-Adjust Valve clearances
-Check valve retainers for cracks (cracks can be caused by over revving)
-Check and if required tighten up rear axle nuts (TSB)
-Replace front/rear callipers
-Replace front rear brake discs and pads
Remaining Fluids Change
-Flush and replace coolant
-Flush and replace brake fluid
-Flush and replace clutch fluid
-Flush and replace transmission fluid - MTF3
-Flush and replace rear differential fluid
Other Work
-Replace a missing heat shield fastening bolt
-Replace firewall brake pipe holders.
Overall the re-work above went well, Rich at Performance Autoworks did have a little trouble with one of the main sub frame bolts which can be pretty troublesome. However it came out without any major trouble.
Quite amazing despite the year of the car and with it being standing outside for many years.
The new clutch feels amazing, a lovely soft feel and with the transmission fluid replaced the shift action now feels incredible. Slots into all gears smoothly and is a joy to use.
Original clutch worn down to its rivets.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Kit (3 piece)
Part Number: 22105-PCX-325
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Release Fork
Part Number: 08CLA-G01-6S0
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Discs
Part Number: 45251-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Discs
Part Number: 42510-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Pads
Part Number: 45022-S2A-E51
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Pads
Part Number: 06430-S2A-E50
Part: Front Brake Calipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4714 (Left) BCA4715 (Right)
Part: Rear Brake Callipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4726 (Left) BCA4727 (Right)
Part: Genuine Honda HYpoid HG0 Diff Fluid (x1 litre)
Part Number: 08294-P99-01HE
Part: Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant (x5 litres)
Part Number: 22820-PCY-000
Part: Genuine Honda MTF3 Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: 082679-990-2HE
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: Castrol React
Part: Genuine Honda Map Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125-PCX-003
Part: Genuine Honda Firewall Brake Line Clips
Part Number: 46396-S84-A01
Part: Genuine Honda Rocker Cover Gasket Kit
Part Number: 12040-PCX-305
Part: Genuine Honda Spark Plug Seals
Part Number: 12342-PCX-004
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performance-Autowor...
Spooner Restorations
Contact: Paul Flaxton
Tel: 07515881784
Email: paulflaxton@googlemail.com
http://www.spoonerrestorations.co.uk
Resources used
None
Task 18 - Brake Calliper Carrier Paint
16-06-2018
After the major brake overhaul at Performance Autoworks the calliper carriers needed a refresh against the newly refurbished brake callipers.
Factory silver was the obvious choice, removing the calliper carrier and having them sent off for powder coating was the ideal way to go.
Unfortunately my home setup won't allow the car to be left on axle stands whilst this occurs. So this was done the old fashioned way.
A quick wire brush to the carriers and a paint brush application of silver Hammerite paint.
All 4 calliper carriers were done very quickly and with pretty good results.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Silver Hammerite Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Homebase (Any DIY Store)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 19 - Xenon Bulb Replacement
16-06-2018
The next task was to replace the passenger side front non working xenon low beam headlight.
The front low beams of the s2000 feature xenon HID lighting from the factory.
The bulb fitment and type is: D2S
After a quick look on s2ki forum for a how to guide, it seemed pretty straight forward.
Although straight forward to replace the bulbs, it involved removing the front wheels and arch liner for complete access. This was ideal so a good glimpse can be had within this area.
Everything seemed to be intact, although the passenger side HID ballast had been replaced with a non genuine type. Most likely the original ballast went faulty at some point.
Although fully functional I would get this replaced with a genuine module sometime in the future.
The bulb replacement went well, the previous bulbs were a much higher colour temperature.
Most likely 5000 kelvin. The bulbs were a non branded type and most likely of poor quality.
Original Osram 4300 kelvin bulbs were installed for the factory illumination and appearance.
5000k Xenons Bulbs on the left removed and the osram 4300k Xenon bulbs installed on the right
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Original Xenarc 4150K D2S Xenon bulbs
Part Number: 66240 (x2)
Supplier: Ebay - Upgrade Bulbs
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "HID Xenon Bulb Replacement Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 20 - Paint Rear of Exhaust Silencer
16-06-2018
The rear sections of the exhaust silencers were looking rather flaky. Most of the OEM black paint has started to flake away over the years.
This is quite a eye sore when looking back at the car.
A quick coat of VHT (Very high temperature) paint was the quick solution here.
The rear of the silencers were quickly rubbed down to remove any flaky old paint and provide a good surface for the paint to adhere too.
A couple coats of the VHT matt black paint immediately improved the overall appearance.
Great result.
Before
After
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hycote VHT Matt Black Paint 400ml
Part Number: UK1001
Supplier: Ebay - Agrauto Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 21 - Under Seal Arches
16-06-2018
Most of the factory underseal around the arches had worn away and with the car being stood around for a fair few years the suspension arms had become rather rusty.
With the arch liners having already been removed on the previous stages, it was a good opportunity to underseal the arches.
A quick hose down with my portable battery jet wash cleaned away alot of the dirt, grime and debris.
This provided a good clean surface for the underseal treatment to adhere too.
Having no mains power or compressor systems available to me, I needed a quick solution for application.
The aerosol version of the Dinitrol underbody sealant wax was ideal. The Dinitrol 4914.
Easy spray on provided hassle free application with a quick masking of areas that are not required to be coated.
The results were fantastic and certainly improved the appearance of the arches, the coating should provide many years of protection on our UK roads.
The arch liners were re-installed with new fastener clips.
(New fastener clips are highly recommended due to most of the original old ones crumbling away upon removal) A pack of x50 fasteners were purchased from the below seller and were excellent value and high quality.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax Sealant - Aerosol Spray On Type (500ml)
Part Number: 4941 (DA1996)
Supplier: Ebay - MPS trading
Part: Arch Liner Splash Guard trim Fastener Clips
Part Number: 91501-S04-003
Supplier: Ebay - byronix
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 22 - Honda Jazz Washer Jet Upgrade
16-06-2018
The windscreen washers on the s2000 from standard are pretty poor. They shoot two burst of water jets at the windshield and are pretty inefficient.
The Honda Jazz washer jets provide a mist spray and not only does it look great it also provides an excellent spray coverage of the windshield.
This upgrade is very common and usually performed on many Honda's of the 90's as it is literally a 5 minute plug and play job.
However, upon installing my set of Honda Jazz washer jets, it was found that the drivers washer jet was very weak.
Upon disassembling and inspecting all the hoses it was found that the one way valve on the driver's side jet had become faulty. The one way valve from Honda was over £15.00. I am all for using genuine parts, however this is alittle over priced for such a tiny and simple component.
It is an easy access component so a cheaper generic part is ideal.
Once the one way valve was purchased and installed, the jazz washer jets performed as they should.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Jazz Washer Jet (genuine Honda)
Part Number: 76810-SEA-A01
Supplier: Ebay - Tegiwa
Part: One Way Valve for Windscreen Washer
Part Number: N/A (unbranded)
Supplier: Ebay - Autopower online
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Lings Honda Part Diagram Explosions
https://www.lingshondaparts.com/cars/car-parts.htm...
Task 23 - Brand New Wheel Nuts
16-06-2018
The final touch for the wheel area was to add a set of brand new wheel nuts. The original wheel nuts were in a very poor state. An attempt to wire brush them was unsuccessful.
A brand new set was purchased from a Honda dealer on eBay due to a special offer.
The size purchased was the 25mm height nuts.
(Honda also do the 30mm height which would stick out too much)
Once the wheels were ready to go on, the new nuts were installed with a hint of copper grease to the inner threads.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Nuts 25mm Height Type (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 90304-SA5-013
Supplier: Ebay - Crown Honda Bushey (Honda Dealer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 24 - Replacement Wheel Locking Nuts
16-06-2018
The original Honda wheel locking nuts currently on the car were really past their best.
The surface of most of the locks had completely rusted over. It would be a good time to have them replaced and avoiding that embarrassing situation where the wheel locks disintegrates when attempting to remove them.
A genuine good condition Honda lock set was found on eBay saving me a good amount from buying new.
All of the old nuts were removed successfully with no issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Alloy Wheel Locks (Genuine Honda) (2nd Hand)
Part Number: 08W42-S1A-600
Supplier: Ebay - Private Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 25 - Replacement Windscreen Wipers
16-06-2018
Another quick job was to replace the windscreen wipers, the current ones were pretty tired and were upgraded to the those flat aero type wipers by the previous owner.
Not being keen on the retro after market flat aero type unless originally fitted as standard, this is because the retro fit ones don't look great as they usually have a large lump where the wiper arm connects to it.
After a quick glance at original wiper sizes for the s2000, being 16" driver and 20" passenger a cheap set of Bosch super plus standard wipers were ordered.
Once fitted It I decided to fit the 20" wiper to the driver's side which provided a much cleaner sweep.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bosch Super Plus Wiper Blades (pair)
Part Number: 16" and 20" Sizes
Supplier: Ebay - Parts_monster
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Wiper Sizes Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 26 - Handsfree Kit Solution
16-06-2018
I wanted a hands free kit in the s2000 but I did not want to change the standard original head unit. The s2000 featured the original Honda cassette head unit with its CD changer in the boot.
It is a very dated system but the CD changer and headunit operates perfectly.
I wanted to retain all of this but I needed the added feature of Bluetooth hands free for that odd telephone call within the car.
My brother shared a solution which he uses in his Honda Jazz.
The device is called "Supertooth Buddy" a simple small device which attaches and clips to the sun visor.
It has its own built in battery and pretty much a standalone unit with no hard wiring of any cables.
This was the perfect solution, easy to use, long lasting battery life, fantastic sound quality and great value of money.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bluetooth Handsfree Kit
Part Number: Supertooth buddy
Supplier: Ebay - vodaphone store (special offer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 27 - Replace Dash Cluster Blanking Switch
16-06-2018
One of the dash blanking switch covers in the car was used to house a Clifford alarm system valet switch.
With the alarm system now being a Toad, this valet switch is no surplus to requirements.
The previous owner drilled a hole in this blanking switch to house the valet switch so this switch plate is now redundant.
A quick email to Holdcroft Honda for the part at a great price it was soon on order and arrived in great time.
A quick and easy replacement
Parts Purchased:
Part: Right Side Dash Cluster Blanking Switch Plate
Part Number: 77208-S2A-003ZA
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth.rees@holdcroft.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 28 - Add Security Window Stickers
14-07-2018
With the alarm installed successfully at an earlier stage, the s2000 did not have any window security labels.
Security labels on the windows do act as a deterent so they do serve a purpose.
Due to the car not having a factory alarm originally (due to it being an early s2000), no factory secutiy labels were present on the windows.
The alarm installed is a Toad AI606 system and their included labels in my opinion were not very nice.
I looked at original Honda secutiy labels installed on the later s2000 models, they were subtle, promimnent and of course genuine Honda. haha! So I decieded to go for them.
They were easy to install on the inside rear corner of the windows. The window was cleaned using some IPA solution to ensure an oil and grease free surface before application.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Security Window Labels x2
Part Number: 39885-S5A-G11
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 29 - New Tyres
15-07-2018
One of the more expensive jobs I have to do on the s2000 are tyres.
The rear tyres on the s2000 are getting extremely low on the inner edge, with the brand name of the tyre being a budget type it was more reason to get them changed.
The front tyres had some good thread left (around 4mm) but I thought it would be best to get a fresh new set on.
Various research into the best tyre for the s2000 spanned various brands but the one brand that came out as being a good all rounder was the Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric.
Now in its version 3 model this seemed a wise safe choice for price, comfort, confidence for that spirited drive and perhaps that rare track day.
I went for the OEM standard sizes:
Fronts: 215-45-R17 (XL load)
Rears: 245-40-R17 (XL load)
My local protyre garage are very good and a quick visit to their website, an order was placed for supply and fitting in the next couple days.
The rims were cleaned prior to fitting the new tyres, it was apparent that the existing tyres have been on the rims for quite some time. All tyres mounted well with no hidden issues with the rims.
The alignment will be performed separately at a later stage as these cars are notoriously known for the geo bolts to be seized up.
The new tyres provides the s2000 with a smooth drive and fantastic grip when pushed around the corners.
The good year Asymmetric 3 tyres are definitely highly recommended.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Rear Tyres 245/40R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Part: Front Tyres 215/45R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Services Used:
Protyre (Tyre Fitting Garage)
Tyres ordered via their online website
(Always check for discount/promo codes before checkout)
www.protyre.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 30 - Facelift s2000 Suspension Upgrade
20-08-2018
When the s2000 was at Performance Autoworks for the major clutch change and other service jobs, Rich mentioned that the rear left damper made a slight pattering sound when going over uneven roads.
The internal gas within the dampers can leak over time which causes this sound. The dampers become weaker hence upsetting the handling slightly.
He stated that I upgrade to a nice set of coilovers or a good second hand facelift s2000 suspension set when budget allows.
I was able to find a nice 2004 facelift suspension set on the s2ki forum.
Massive thanks to Grant on the s2ki forum, he supplied me the set at an amazing price
Upon receipt of the kit, it all looked good.
The suspension set was given a good clean and a quick coat of black hammerite paint to freshen it up
For the installation I wanted to give it a go myself, but I called up an old mechanic family friend to assist me.
I am really glad I had the help as there would be no way I could have performed this on my own.
The rear suspension was the hardest to fit, with the rear stabilizer bracket being a pain to re-install.
The rear lower control arms had to be really pushed down to able to remove the damper assembly.
There was alot of tension held within the rear sway bar.
Removing the rear left top suspension bolts was tricky due to it being underneath the fuel piping.
After several hours (5 hours to be exact) the suspension set was installed
After a quick test drive, the pattering was gone and being the face lifted version of the suspension set it feels much softer and the comfort levels have noticeably increased.
The handling has much improved and gives a much more inspired confidence to the handling of the car.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Facelift 2004-2009 Front/Rear Suspension Damper and Spring Assembly
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Second hand Purchase (s2ki Forum)
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
None
Task 31 - s2000 Second Photo shoot
25-08-2018
The August bank holiday gave an opportunity to have a second photoshoot for the s2000.
This is how she stands presently.
Edited by s2000_f20 on Wednesday 6th March 14:39
Task 32 - Radiator Fans Constantly On
27-08-2018
From the past couple weeks, it had been noticed that the radiator and A/C radiator fans turn on immediately after pre ignition, engine start and on a cold engine. The engine temperature would be ok and no overheating was present.
The radiator fan should only switch on when the coolant reaches a certain temperature, I think around 93-95 degrees. I set about to find out what was wrong.
Thanks to a few old s2ki forum threads, I performed a few tests to find a root cause to the problem.
The threads pin pointed the radiator fan switch to be the most likely problem.
I performed a few tests to confirm this:
-Swapped over the radiator fan switch relay (there is an identical relay within the fuse box)
Result: No difference
-Disconnect the radiator fan switch itself
(fan switch is located on the left hand bottom section of the radiator)
Result: On pre-ignition, engine start and cold engine, the radiator fans do not switch on.
With the above findings it concluded that the existing radiator fan switch is stuck in the closed position.
I am all for sourcing and using genuine Honda parts but for something quite relatively easy to change, several members have recommended a good after market brand.
The Honda OEM part, cheapest I found was £67.00 (Usual RRP £94.00)
After market type: £13.04
The brand of the aftermarket type was Canbiare which is a well known European brand.
I decided to go for this one.
The switch was relatively easy to access, and from several threads it required no coolant bleeding when swapping it out within the radiator which was a plus point.
The lower under tray was a tad tricky to remove with most of its clips crumbling upon removal.
It would seem that it had never been removed.
With the under tray removed, a good general clean was also performed.
The radiator fan switch has a size 24mm hex and a deep socket was required to remove it.
I realised this quite late and didn't have one in the tool box.
A trip to Halfords solved this.
Just a little spillage of coolant during the quick swap over and that was it.
The radiator fan switch is located at the bottom of the radiator when the red arrow is pointing.
Upon engine start and warm-up the fans kicked in as normal and switched off as expected.
A long 40 min drive confirmed full function had been restored.
The old radiator fan switch removed
Parts Purchased:
Part: Radiator Fan Switch
Honda Part Number: 37760-P00003
Canbiare Part Number: VE709047
Supplier: Car Parts In Motion (Ebay Seller)
Tool: 24mm Deep 1/2 inch Socket
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sock...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Thread: Fans Always on
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thread I Started
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thanks to Wurlycorner for recommending the Cambiare brand
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&...
TASK 33 - Remove Rear Bumper & Lights (Clean and Under Seal)
28-08-2018
The next task on the agenda was to remove the rear bumper, this would give the opportunity to have a peek behind and see the condition of the rear beam and chassis area.
The bumper removal was pretty straight forward and with the process fairly common with most Honda's. Two screws on either side into the rear quarter, clips on top of the rear bumper, three clips on the bottom section of the rear bumper and two clips either side of the arch.
Once the bumper was off the condition of the rear beam and chassis sections weren't too bad. Few light rust spots with the rear beam rusty in a few places. From research, it seems the rear beam is common to rust due to its location and having no protection from any stone chips.
All sections were cleaned and the wire brush came out, light rust spots were brushed with the rear beam also being tidied up the best it could.
Hammerite rust remover was applied on required areas and then followed a coat of dinitrol under seal spray.
A general clean and wipe down was given to all other areas.
Rear number plate bulbs were replaced and terminals greased up to prevent corrosion
The rear lights were removed inspected and cleaned.
All sections behind the lights were in great condition with no leaks or rust.
The connectors were checked and no signs of corrosion was present.
No moisture or leaks were present behind the boot trim.
The light cluster gaskets were checked and cleaned.
The rear bumper was re-installed and new clips were used in all locations.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml x3
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 34 - Remove Front Bumper (Clean and Rust Treat as Required)
02-09-2018
It made sense that the next task was to perform a front bumper removal.
This would also be an opportunity to check for any rust or damage within this area.
Again, the front bumper removal is similar to all Honda's, two screws either side of the front arch, several bolts on the top section of the bumper, two hidden 10mm bolts either side facing the headlamps and several bolts on the underside of the bumper.
Both front arch liners were also removed to aid in access.
Once the bumper was carefully removed the condition of the front sections of the car were also in pretty good condition, with a few rust spots on the front cross beam and various brackets as one would expect.
The rust spots were rubbed down and Hammerite rust remover was applied, followed by a quick coat of touch up paint.
An overall wipe down of all areas were performed and it was looking really fresh.
The air pump was checked and seemed in good clean condition, the previous owner had not tempered with it.
It is common for owners to delete this component if it fails, as it is in good working condition it will be left alone.
The air pump is designed to blow air into the exhaust system upon a cold engine start to quickly heat up the catalytic converter and thus reduce emissions from cold starting.
If you're air pump has failed, you would get a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) appear on your dash cluster.
If your fault code has detected that the air pump has failed, you can delete it with a special kit from a company called "Delta Lima"
There will be no operating issues, only slightly higher emissions when the car is started from cold.
This will not affect your MOT as the car will be fully warmed and up to operating temperatures when emissions are tested.
The kit has been proven by many s2000 members on this forum.
The bumper itself was checked for damage and also cleaned.
The front number plate and holder were examined, all bolts mounting the holder were clean and not seized.
Due to some cosmetic damage to the number plate holder and number plate itself, I will be replacing both these items later on so it was good to see it will be hassle free.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
If required - Air Pump Delete Kit from Deltalima
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/european-s2000-owners-...
http://deltalima-s2000.nl/en/handleidingen/egr-air...
Task 35 - Rear Mid Level Spoiler
07-09-2018
The s2000 does look fantastic as standard, but I have always loved the look of the mid level spoiler that comes on a few models. This spoiler is an upgrade accessory and apparently still available from Honda, the only issue with the genuine part is that it is quite expensive and requires holes to be drilled within the boot lid to attach it which I refuse to do.
After a search on the forum, there is an aftermarket cheaper and easy to fit solution.
A highly recommended seller which goes by the name of "BMWchop" (a seller on eBay)
From reviews and feedback from many threads on s2k UK, the shape of the spoiler, quality and paint match is amazing.
Many members have reported nothing but good things and from all the images posted up it looks and fits fantastic.
I was convinced by this so had to try it for myself, an order was placed for NH630 pre-painted version and with a handy 10% eBay voucher at the time it worked out even cheaper.
The seller was very efficient with it arriving in just two days and no import duty charge! Great result.
He spoke good English and kept me up to date.
Arrival of the spoiler
Once arrived, a test fit was performed. The colour match was fantastic and the fitment was excellent.
Very impressed indeed, given its price.
On fitment I tried the supplied double sided adhesive tape, but I didn't feel confident that it would stick well despite various reports from other members that it was fine.
I decided to purchase some 3M automotive Vey High Bond adhesive.
I purchased the longer thinner strip (1.5mm thick tape 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive) for the top and bottom edges of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-Double-Sided-Foa...
For the spoiler end sections I used slightly thicker (2.3mm 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive)
(These came in a small square 100mm x 50mm size which I cut up into two strips of 50mm x 25mm and positioned them either side of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-100mm-x-50mm-2-3...
The reason why I went for a slightly thicker tape on the end sections is the recess is slightly deeper where the spoiler curves into the ends of the boot edge.
The underside of the spoiler was sanded down to provide a smooth surface for the double sided adhesive to adhere well too.
Once all the tapes was positioned on the spoiler, I got to work to fit it.
The boot lid surface was cleaned with fairy liquid to ensure a clean grease free surface.
I didn't have any masking tape so I just used what I had in my tool box.
Electrical tape was used to provide me with a guide for fitment as this would be a onetime action.
Once suitably aligned within the position marked, the self adhesive backing was removed and the spoiler was pressed into position.
The bond of the tape is fantastic, It definitely gives that confidence of a good adhesion to the boot lid.
The spoiler looks fantastic and definitely gives the s2000 a much sportier look.
Extremely happy with the look, quality and results, highly recommended.
Parts Purchased
Part: s2000 Mid Level Spoiler
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: BMWchop (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (Reel) (1.5mm Thick)
Part Number: RP62
Supplier: fasttapes (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (2.3mm Thick)
Part Number: 3M VHB 4991
Supplier: happy-london-tapes (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2k Thread - Spoiler Recommendation
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
S2k Thread - Adhesive tape for Spoiler
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 36 - Genuine Front Pre-Face Bumper Lip
07-09-2018
I've always loved the look of the pre facelift s2000 with a front lip as it added a subtle aggression to the s2000 without going over the top.
I had an urge to source one but wasn't sure if they were still available.
After several enquiries it became apparent that Honda still had stock of them and they were available in my pre painted Silverstone metallic colour.
Fantastic result.
Unfortunately, the price of this part had increased dramatically over the years and I had to decide whether or not it was worth to pay such a price for one.
I tried to search for alternatives just like with the mid level spoiler.
There were replica's available but from reviews/feedback, the fitment is not great and unless you have a body shop to hand to help fit, paint and attach it, alot of people say to avoid them as the costs and hassle involved isn't worth it.
The genuine part comes pre-painted and attaches as any genuine part does. Utilising existing mounting points with the supplied hardware it takes on average 20mins to fit and the fitment should be perfect.
I contemplated long and hard about it, and thought what the hell. This would most likely be my last upgrade to the car.
Let's go for it.
I placed an order and within 3 days it arrived. The paint finish and quality is as you would expect from a genuine part, flawless. I was glad a genuine part was purchased.
The box was huge!
Fitting the lip was straight forward, with the supplied instructions it just needed the removal of the three centre bolts from the underside of the bumper and a couple of pilot holes drilled on either side of the bumper edges for self tapping screws for the front lip end attachment.
A further 2 bolts per side on the underside were required with the supplied fastening bolts.
A hint of copper grease was used on all bolts and screws for easy removal in the future.
The lip wrapped around the bumper perfectly like a glove and with all the bolts securing it, installation was complete within 30mins and that was me taking my time including adding a layer of wax behind the bumper section that will be covered by the lip.
Fantastic transformation, the front lip does really look good on the pre-face lift s2000.
Fully installed
A great buy and highly recommended to any pre-face lift owner.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Front Under Lip (pre painted in Silverstone metallic)
Part Number: 08F01-S2A-681F
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Supplied Instruction Manual for Front Lip Fitting
Also can be found online here
https://www.handa-accessories.com/S2000/s2kfuspoil...
TASK 37 - Investigate Water Leak into Driver Footwell - (PROBLEM 2)
10-09-2018
In the early months of my s2000 ownership, it was noticed that a small water leak was apparent.
This was resolved my repairing the rubber seal on the A-pillar which now re-directs the water as it should out into the door channel recesses.
After a few more heavy rainfalls it was noticed that a slight trickle of water was still entering the cabin and making the carpet underneath the drivers pedals slightly wet. The water seemed to also be absorbed up within the insulation in this area underneath the main floor carpet.
The previous owner never really suffered from this as the car was stored under a car port.
This was on the agenda and was vital I resolve this before winter approaches.
Even getting additional help from a garage to completely strip the interior to find the root cause if required .
I set aside a full day of diagnosis and went about eliminating various sections just to make sure I covered all areas.
Not having any access to a hose pipe or running water I relied on my battery powered portable jet washer to simulate rainfall. Known as the Mobi V17, other similar models are known and manufactured by Sealey or Aqua2go if interested.
Fantastic bit of kit, stores around 18 litres of water and provides excellent suitable pressure.
I checked all the seals around the windows and roof. Moving towards the front and around the A-pillars.
This included all drain points in the engine bay and the drain point under the windscreen wiper cowling
I double checked and removed all the A-pillar plastic mouldings.
No sign of any water entering.
The rear roof drains were checked and confirmed water was draining fine in this section.
The next stage was to remove the wind screen wiper cowling section.
(this will also be documented separately on the next task for inspection and clean)
With the cowling removed, the wind screen seal was inspected with no defects apparent.
The windscreen is still the original Honda part which gave a good sigh of relief it had not be tampered with or previously replaced.
Back into the driver's footwell, I removed the x2 bolts holding the foot rest and the lower right side panel which sits over the bonnet release catch (the driver's door side sill) needs to be unclipped and removed first.
In this state, water can be sprayed and hopefully monitor its point of entrance.
Water drain points are located in the upper corner of the drivers engine bay and another one under the bonnet hinge area.
I used my battery powered pressure washer to direct water at these drain points whilst monitoring.
To my amazement, the water was found trickling into the cabin very slowly. The area where it entered was to the right hand side where the bonnet release cable exits the cabin.
There seemed to be a missing seal or grommet surrounding this cable, a brief look later through the receipts proved that the bonnet release cable was replaced in 2009 and the garage who replaced it did not re-fit the grommet seal.
Item 10 required
The part is still readily available from Honda and only around £4.54.
An order was replaced with a very quick lead time of a few days.
Once the part arrived the fitting was straight forward, the carpets were given a good scrubbing with autoglym shampoo. All underlay sections of the carpet was ensured fully dry using my hobby heat gun.
Some copper grease (all I had at the time)was used on the cable and grommet to allow the grommet to feed itself easily through the cable. It was quite tricky but with alittle patients the grommet secured itself nicely within the aperture sealing it perfectly.
Grommet installed
The end clip to hold the bonnet release plastic panel in place was also purchased as this was originally missing when the car was purchased.
All components fully reassembled
Hopefully this saga can now be put to rest.
A fantastic result, I couldn't have asked for a better outcome
Parts Purchased
Part: Grommet Seal for Bonnet Release Cable
Part Number: 74134-SM-4000
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: 7mm Clip to Secure Side Panel
Part Number: 90667-S0D-003ZH
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now known as Aqua2go.
https://www.aqua2go.eu/en/overview.html
TASK 38 - Remove Windscreen Wiper Cowling (Inspect and Clean)
09-09-2018
During the above investigation and after it was solved, it made sense to also inspect and clean this area of the car. With the cowling assumed not having been removed throughout the car's lifetime it definitely showed.
Cobwebs, debris and leaves were everywhere and as expected.
A quick hose down using the portable jet washer removed most of the dirt
(Special care was taken not to soak or get the cabin filter wet)
With the cowling removed, the filter panel and the fan housing down into the heater matrix was fully inspected and checked.
Additional wiping down of various sections continued the clean.
All fittings and cables were inspected with no evidence of any tampering or modifications.
Small surface rust was rubbed down and treated on the centre clip section.
A slight hint of copper grease was used on the wiper motor attachments so the wiper arms do not seize up in the future. (they were quite tricky to remove initially but came off with a little force)
The wiper arms are looking pretty tired with most of its black finish being chipped off, these will be replaced sometime in the future.
A great contrast from before and after, looking fabulously clean.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 39 - Replace Front Number Plate Mount and Renew Front & Rear Number Plates
27-09-2018
One of the small little tasks to do was to refresh the front number plate mount.
There is quite a considerable graze on the right hand side of the mount with the front number plate beings scratched also.
I was thinking of sanding down the mount and refreshing it with flexible external trim paint, however a brand new part from Honda was only £36.00 and they are easy to fit having previously removed the bumper to check its current status and to ensure nothing was seized up.
An order was placed for a new genuine front number plate mount.
Both number plates were looking rather tired too so an order was placed for brand new front and rear number plates.
The rear plate was fitted with ease, using the old number plate as a template for the mount holes.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
Yellow screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
The front number plate mount required the front bumper to be removed.
Already having performed this previously, it was straight forward.
With the front bumper removed, the number plate mount fixings can be loosened.
The mount was held in by x2 10mm flanged bolts
A couple of retaining clips had to be pryed away but the mount came away cleanly.
The area behind the mount was given a good clean and polish.
The installation was a breeze and was the reverse of removal.
Once installed, the new front number plate was measured up with new holes
(the old holes were through a character either side of the registration number which was not acceptable)
The screw holes were marked up to the unused section of the number plate near the edges.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
White screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
Once finished, the bumper was re-installed.
The new plates and mount completes the front end refresh.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Honda Number Plate Mount Holder
Part Number: 71180-S2A-G00
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: Front and Rear Number Plates with fixing kit
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: In Car Products (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 40 - Remove and Replace Auxiliary Belt, Idler and Tensioner Pulley Bearings
21-10-2018
One of the last maintenance tasks that needed doing was to replace the auxiliary belt, there is a stretch indicator on the belt tensioner which indicates the current belt is way past its best.
The car still started up fine with no squeal or belt slipping, but it was the right time to renew this assembly.
As shown from the image below, the current belt is way out of specification and pretty stretched out.
The belt is most likely the original one.
With that in mind, it was also a good opportunity to replace the idler and tensioner pulley bearings.
I was going to buy the full idler and tensioner pulleys with their bearings direct from Honda, however a fantastic video from DIYguys on Youtube showed that the bearings themselves can easily be hammered out and replaced.
The pulleys themselves take the common 6203 size bearing with the 2RS model being the recommended low cost alternative.
With this info, I set about ordering the parts.
The auxiliary belt from Honda was over £65.00, again I am all for genuine parts but the price for a belt is pretty ridiculous. Various threads on s2ki showed that the Contitech and gates make excellent alternatives and at a fraction of the cost. The belt change is really straight forward so if this aftermarket belt doesn't last that long they can be replaced easily in 5 mins.
I decided to purchase a Contitech belt from Eurocarparts, with their usual promotional discount it came to £12.39 posted. Absolute bargain.
There were several manufacturers for the bearings, like SRF and Koyo. I decided to purchase a pair of Koyo 6203-2RS bearings. The seller sent me the 2RS-C3 version which has the additional internal radial clearance.
However this should still be fine, it has been installed and operating well so far after 300 miles of driving.
The process was pretty straight forward and enjoyable too.
Everything came apart as expected with no major issues encountered.
Before removing the idler and tensioner pulleys, they were checked to see how worn they were.
Notice how much side to side play the tensioner bearing had and how worn the idler bearing was.
It kept on spinning with a ticking type sound.
See videos below
My Worn Idler Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nXYYJ2PD6I
My Worn Tensioner Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMBiC07JhzE
The original belt had seen better days, various chips in the belt grooves can be seen.
This was noticed all over the belt.
There were also small cracks in the ribbed grooves too.
From DIYguys video, the only socket I didn't have was the large 1-13/16" socket to rest the tensioner pulley on.
I had to purchase this.
Whilst you are in this area, it is also worth checking the condition of the alternator pulley, water pump pulley and air con compressor.
Ensure the water pump pulley spins freely in both directions with no side to side play and ensure no leaks are present. Ensure the alternator pulley also spins freely and check for play and movement. Perform the same checks to the air con compressor.
Give the surrounding areas a good clean and wipe down before reassembling.
Close up of Idler and Tensioner pulley
Close up of ilder pulley and its original bearing
New bearings installed into Idler and tensioner pulleys
With new belt installed
Belt stretch indicator now within specification
A fantastic result and a job that is well worth doing on the s2000.
Things to note
-Unless you have a super fancy torque wrench, it was noticed that my torque wrench doesn't torque up in reverse, so this would need to be done manually.
-As stated on DIYguys video, don't forget the bolt holding the tensioner pulley is a reverse thread
-As mentioned above, perform checks on the water pump, alternator and air con compressor.
-If you have alittle more time, you can refurbish (i.e sand and quickly spray paint the pulleys to smarten them up alittle)
Parts Purchased
Part: Koyo 6203-2RS Bearings (x2)
Part Number: 6203-2RS
Supplier: D.cjohnsonltd (Ebay seller)
Part: 1-13/16" 3/4 Inch Square Drive Socket
Part Number: 1-13/16"
Supplier: Toolvillage (Ebay seller)
Part: ContiTech Drive Auxiliary belt (s2000)
Contitech Part Number: 6PK1468
Supplier: Eurocarparts
For reference (Aux belt part numbers)
Eurocaparts Part Number: 202770585
Genuine Honda Part Number: 38920-PCX-024
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYGuys Video (Pulley Replacement)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1ooX9ZX0Ik
S2ki Thread - Auxiliary Belt Options
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
This brings the car up to date, I have tried to cover as much I could in such a short space of time and before the winter arrives.
I am happy with the way the car drives and looks and now need to drive it more.
This is a small remaining to-do list and will fulfil them with funds allow.
To-do List
-Renew or Refurbish Front Windshield Wiper Arms
-Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500 Type
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading
03-11-2018
27-08-2018
From the past couple weeks, it had been noticed that the radiator and A/C radiator fans turn on immediately after pre ignition, engine start and on a cold engine. The engine temperature would be ok and no overheating was present.
The radiator fan should only switch on when the coolant reaches a certain temperature, I think around 93-95 degrees. I set about to find out what was wrong.
Thanks to a few old s2ki forum threads, I performed a few tests to find a root cause to the problem.
The threads pin pointed the radiator fan switch to be the most likely problem.
I performed a few tests to confirm this:
-Swapped over the radiator fan switch relay (there is an identical relay within the fuse box)
Result: No difference
-Disconnect the radiator fan switch itself
(fan switch is located on the left hand bottom section of the radiator)
Result: On pre-ignition, engine start and cold engine, the radiator fans do not switch on.
With the above findings it concluded that the existing radiator fan switch is stuck in the closed position.
I am all for sourcing and using genuine Honda parts but for something quite relatively easy to change, several members have recommended a good after market brand.
The Honda OEM part, cheapest I found was £67.00 (Usual RRP £94.00)
After market type: £13.04
The brand of the aftermarket type was Canbiare which is a well known European brand.
I decided to go for this one.
The switch was relatively easy to access, and from several threads it required no coolant bleeding when swapping it out within the radiator which was a plus point.
The lower under tray was a tad tricky to remove with most of its clips crumbling upon removal.
It would seem that it had never been removed.
With the under tray removed, a good general clean was also performed.
The radiator fan switch has a size 24mm hex and a deep socket was required to remove it.
I realised this quite late and didn't have one in the tool box.
A trip to Halfords solved this.
Just a little spillage of coolant during the quick swap over and that was it.
The radiator fan switch is located at the bottom of the radiator when the red arrow is pointing.
Upon engine start and warm-up the fans kicked in as normal and switched off as expected.
A long 40 min drive confirmed full function had been restored.
The old radiator fan switch removed
Parts Purchased:
Part: Radiator Fan Switch
Honda Part Number: 37760-P00003
Canbiare Part Number: VE709047
Supplier: Car Parts In Motion (Ebay Seller)
Tool: 24mm Deep 1/2 inch Socket
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sock...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Thread: Fans Always on
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thread I Started
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thanks to Wurlycorner for recommending the Cambiare brand
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&...
TASK 33 - Remove Rear Bumper & Lights (Clean and Under Seal)
28-08-2018
The next task on the agenda was to remove the rear bumper, this would give the opportunity to have a peek behind and see the condition of the rear beam and chassis area.
The bumper removal was pretty straight forward and with the process fairly common with most Honda's. Two screws on either side into the rear quarter, clips on top of the rear bumper, three clips on the bottom section of the rear bumper and two clips either side of the arch.
Once the bumper was off the condition of the rear beam and chassis sections weren't too bad. Few light rust spots with the rear beam rusty in a few places. From research, it seems the rear beam is common to rust due to its location and having no protection from any stone chips.
All sections were cleaned and the wire brush came out, light rust spots were brushed with the rear beam also being tidied up the best it could.
Hammerite rust remover was applied on required areas and then followed a coat of dinitrol under seal spray.
A general clean and wipe down was given to all other areas.
Rear number plate bulbs were replaced and terminals greased up to prevent corrosion
The rear lights were removed inspected and cleaned.
All sections behind the lights were in great condition with no leaks or rust.
The connectors were checked and no signs of corrosion was present.
No moisture or leaks were present behind the boot trim.
The light cluster gaskets were checked and cleaned.
The rear bumper was re-installed and new clips were used in all locations.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml x3
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 34 - Remove Front Bumper (Clean and Rust Treat as Required)
02-09-2018
It made sense that the next task was to perform a front bumper removal.
This would also be an opportunity to check for any rust or damage within this area.
Again, the front bumper removal is similar to all Honda's, two screws either side of the front arch, several bolts on the top section of the bumper, two hidden 10mm bolts either side facing the headlamps and several bolts on the underside of the bumper.
Both front arch liners were also removed to aid in access.
Once the bumper was carefully removed the condition of the front sections of the car were also in pretty good condition, with a few rust spots on the front cross beam and various brackets as one would expect.
The rust spots were rubbed down and Hammerite rust remover was applied, followed by a quick coat of touch up paint.
An overall wipe down of all areas were performed and it was looking really fresh.
The air pump was checked and seemed in good clean condition, the previous owner had not tempered with it.
It is common for owners to delete this component if it fails, as it is in good working condition it will be left alone.
The air pump is designed to blow air into the exhaust system upon a cold engine start to quickly heat up the catalytic converter and thus reduce emissions from cold starting.
If you're air pump has failed, you would get a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) appear on your dash cluster.
If your fault code has detected that the air pump has failed, you can delete it with a special kit from a company called "Delta Lima"
There will be no operating issues, only slightly higher emissions when the car is started from cold.
This will not affect your MOT as the car will be fully warmed and up to operating temperatures when emissions are tested.
The kit has been proven by many s2000 members on this forum.
The bumper itself was checked for damage and also cleaned.
The front number plate and holder were examined, all bolts mounting the holder were clean and not seized.
Due to some cosmetic damage to the number plate holder and number plate itself, I will be replacing both these items later on so it was good to see it will be hassle free.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
If required - Air Pump Delete Kit from Deltalima
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/european-s2000-owners-...
http://deltalima-s2000.nl/en/handleidingen/egr-air...
Task 35 - Rear Mid Level Spoiler
07-09-2018
The s2000 does look fantastic as standard, but I have always loved the look of the mid level spoiler that comes on a few models. This spoiler is an upgrade accessory and apparently still available from Honda, the only issue with the genuine part is that it is quite expensive and requires holes to be drilled within the boot lid to attach it which I refuse to do.
After a search on the forum, there is an aftermarket cheaper and easy to fit solution.
A highly recommended seller which goes by the name of "BMWchop" (a seller on eBay)
From reviews and feedback from many threads on s2k UK, the shape of the spoiler, quality and paint match is amazing.
Many members have reported nothing but good things and from all the images posted up it looks and fits fantastic.
I was convinced by this so had to try it for myself, an order was placed for NH630 pre-painted version and with a handy 10% eBay voucher at the time it worked out even cheaper.
The seller was very efficient with it arriving in just two days and no import duty charge! Great result.
He spoke good English and kept me up to date.
Arrival of the spoiler
Once arrived, a test fit was performed. The colour match was fantastic and the fitment was excellent.
Very impressed indeed, given its price.
On fitment I tried the supplied double sided adhesive tape, but I didn't feel confident that it would stick well despite various reports from other members that it was fine.
I decided to purchase some 3M automotive Vey High Bond adhesive.
I purchased the longer thinner strip (1.5mm thick tape 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive) for the top and bottom edges of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-Double-Sided-Foa...
For the spoiler end sections I used slightly thicker (2.3mm 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive)
(These came in a small square 100mm x 50mm size which I cut up into two strips of 50mm x 25mm and positioned them either side of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-100mm-x-50mm-2-3...
The reason why I went for a slightly thicker tape on the end sections is the recess is slightly deeper where the spoiler curves into the ends of the boot edge.
The underside of the spoiler was sanded down to provide a smooth surface for the double sided adhesive to adhere well too.
Once all the tapes was positioned on the spoiler, I got to work to fit it.
The boot lid surface was cleaned with fairy liquid to ensure a clean grease free surface.
I didn't have any masking tape so I just used what I had in my tool box.
Electrical tape was used to provide me with a guide for fitment as this would be a onetime action.
Once suitably aligned within the position marked, the self adhesive backing was removed and the spoiler was pressed into position.
The bond of the tape is fantastic, It definitely gives that confidence of a good adhesion to the boot lid.
The spoiler looks fantastic and definitely gives the s2000 a much sportier look.
Extremely happy with the look, quality and results, highly recommended.
Parts Purchased
Part: s2000 Mid Level Spoiler
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: BMWchop (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (Reel) (1.5mm Thick)
Part Number: RP62
Supplier: fasttapes (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (2.3mm Thick)
Part Number: 3M VHB 4991
Supplier: happy-london-tapes (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2k Thread - Spoiler Recommendation
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
S2k Thread - Adhesive tape for Spoiler
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 36 - Genuine Front Pre-Face Bumper Lip
07-09-2018
I've always loved the look of the pre facelift s2000 with a front lip as it added a subtle aggression to the s2000 without going over the top.
I had an urge to source one but wasn't sure if they were still available.
After several enquiries it became apparent that Honda still had stock of them and they were available in my pre painted Silverstone metallic colour.
Fantastic result.
Unfortunately, the price of this part had increased dramatically over the years and I had to decide whether or not it was worth to pay such a price for one.
I tried to search for alternatives just like with the mid level spoiler.
There were replica's available but from reviews/feedback, the fitment is not great and unless you have a body shop to hand to help fit, paint and attach it, alot of people say to avoid them as the costs and hassle involved isn't worth it.
The genuine part comes pre-painted and attaches as any genuine part does. Utilising existing mounting points with the supplied hardware it takes on average 20mins to fit and the fitment should be perfect.
I contemplated long and hard about it, and thought what the hell. This would most likely be my last upgrade to the car.
Let's go for it.
I placed an order and within 3 days it arrived. The paint finish and quality is as you would expect from a genuine part, flawless. I was glad a genuine part was purchased.
The box was huge!
Fitting the lip was straight forward, with the supplied instructions it just needed the removal of the three centre bolts from the underside of the bumper and a couple of pilot holes drilled on either side of the bumper edges for self tapping screws for the front lip end attachment.
A further 2 bolts per side on the underside were required with the supplied fastening bolts.
A hint of copper grease was used on all bolts and screws for easy removal in the future.
The lip wrapped around the bumper perfectly like a glove and with all the bolts securing it, installation was complete within 30mins and that was me taking my time including adding a layer of wax behind the bumper section that will be covered by the lip.
Fantastic transformation, the front lip does really look good on the pre-face lift s2000.
Fully installed
A great buy and highly recommended to any pre-face lift owner.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Front Under Lip (pre painted in Silverstone metallic)
Part Number: 08F01-S2A-681F
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Supplied Instruction Manual for Front Lip Fitting
Also can be found online here
https://www.handa-accessories.com/S2000/s2kfuspoil...
TASK 37 - Investigate Water Leak into Driver Footwell - (PROBLEM 2)
10-09-2018
In the early months of my s2000 ownership, it was noticed that a small water leak was apparent.
This was resolved my repairing the rubber seal on the A-pillar which now re-directs the water as it should out into the door channel recesses.
After a few more heavy rainfalls it was noticed that a slight trickle of water was still entering the cabin and making the carpet underneath the drivers pedals slightly wet. The water seemed to also be absorbed up within the insulation in this area underneath the main floor carpet.
The previous owner never really suffered from this as the car was stored under a car port.
This was on the agenda and was vital I resolve this before winter approaches.
Even getting additional help from a garage to completely strip the interior to find the root cause if required .
I set aside a full day of diagnosis and went about eliminating various sections just to make sure I covered all areas.
Not having any access to a hose pipe or running water I relied on my battery powered portable jet washer to simulate rainfall. Known as the Mobi V17, other similar models are known and manufactured by Sealey or Aqua2go if interested.
Fantastic bit of kit, stores around 18 litres of water and provides excellent suitable pressure.
I checked all the seals around the windows and roof. Moving towards the front and around the A-pillars.
This included all drain points in the engine bay and the drain point under the windscreen wiper cowling
I double checked and removed all the A-pillar plastic mouldings.
No sign of any water entering.
The rear roof drains were checked and confirmed water was draining fine in this section.
The next stage was to remove the wind screen wiper cowling section.
(this will also be documented separately on the next task for inspection and clean)
With the cowling removed, the wind screen seal was inspected with no defects apparent.
The windscreen is still the original Honda part which gave a good sigh of relief it had not be tampered with or previously replaced.
Back into the driver's footwell, I removed the x2 bolts holding the foot rest and the lower right side panel which sits over the bonnet release catch (the driver's door side sill) needs to be unclipped and removed first.
In this state, water can be sprayed and hopefully monitor its point of entrance.
Water drain points are located in the upper corner of the drivers engine bay and another one under the bonnet hinge area.
I used my battery powered pressure washer to direct water at these drain points whilst monitoring.
To my amazement, the water was found trickling into the cabin very slowly. The area where it entered was to the right hand side where the bonnet release cable exits the cabin.
There seemed to be a missing seal or grommet surrounding this cable, a brief look later through the receipts proved that the bonnet release cable was replaced in 2009 and the garage who replaced it did not re-fit the grommet seal.
Item 10 required
The part is still readily available from Honda and only around £4.54.
An order was replaced with a very quick lead time of a few days.
Once the part arrived the fitting was straight forward, the carpets were given a good scrubbing with autoglym shampoo. All underlay sections of the carpet was ensured fully dry using my hobby heat gun.
Some copper grease (all I had at the time)was used on the cable and grommet to allow the grommet to feed itself easily through the cable. It was quite tricky but with alittle patients the grommet secured itself nicely within the aperture sealing it perfectly.
Grommet installed
The end clip to hold the bonnet release plastic panel in place was also purchased as this was originally missing when the car was purchased.
All components fully reassembled
Hopefully this saga can now be put to rest.
A fantastic result, I couldn't have asked for a better outcome
Parts Purchased
Part: Grommet Seal for Bonnet Release Cable
Part Number: 74134-SM-4000
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: 7mm Clip to Secure Side Panel
Part Number: 90667-S0D-003ZH
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now known as Aqua2go.
https://www.aqua2go.eu/en/overview.html
TASK 38 - Remove Windscreen Wiper Cowling (Inspect and Clean)
09-09-2018
During the above investigation and after it was solved, it made sense to also inspect and clean this area of the car. With the cowling assumed not having been removed throughout the car's lifetime it definitely showed.
Cobwebs, debris and leaves were everywhere and as expected.
A quick hose down using the portable jet washer removed most of the dirt
(Special care was taken not to soak or get the cabin filter wet)
With the cowling removed, the filter panel and the fan housing down into the heater matrix was fully inspected and checked.
Additional wiping down of various sections continued the clean.
All fittings and cables were inspected with no evidence of any tampering or modifications.
Small surface rust was rubbed down and treated on the centre clip section.
A slight hint of copper grease was used on the wiper motor attachments so the wiper arms do not seize up in the future. (they were quite tricky to remove initially but came off with a little force)
The wiper arms are looking pretty tired with most of its black finish being chipped off, these will be replaced sometime in the future.
A great contrast from before and after, looking fabulously clean.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 39 - Replace Front Number Plate Mount and Renew Front & Rear Number Plates
27-09-2018
One of the small little tasks to do was to refresh the front number plate mount.
There is quite a considerable graze on the right hand side of the mount with the front number plate beings scratched also.
I was thinking of sanding down the mount and refreshing it with flexible external trim paint, however a brand new part from Honda was only £36.00 and they are easy to fit having previously removed the bumper to check its current status and to ensure nothing was seized up.
An order was placed for a new genuine front number plate mount.
Both number plates were looking rather tired too so an order was placed for brand new front and rear number plates.
The rear plate was fitted with ease, using the old number plate as a template for the mount holes.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
Yellow screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
The front number plate mount required the front bumper to be removed.
Already having performed this previously, it was straight forward.
With the front bumper removed, the number plate mount fixings can be loosened.
The mount was held in by x2 10mm flanged bolts
A couple of retaining clips had to be pryed away but the mount came away cleanly.
The area behind the mount was given a good clean and polish.
The installation was a breeze and was the reverse of removal.
Once installed, the new front number plate was measured up with new holes
(the old holes were through a character either side of the registration number which was not acceptable)
The screw holes were marked up to the unused section of the number plate near the edges.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
White screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
Once finished, the bumper was re-installed.
The new plates and mount completes the front end refresh.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Honda Number Plate Mount Holder
Part Number: 71180-S2A-G00
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: Front and Rear Number Plates with fixing kit
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: In Car Products (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 40 - Remove and Replace Auxiliary Belt, Idler and Tensioner Pulley Bearings
21-10-2018
One of the last maintenance tasks that needed doing was to replace the auxiliary belt, there is a stretch indicator on the belt tensioner which indicates the current belt is way past its best.
The car still started up fine with no squeal or belt slipping, but it was the right time to renew this assembly.
As shown from the image below, the current belt is way out of specification and pretty stretched out.
The belt is most likely the original one.
With that in mind, it was also a good opportunity to replace the idler and tensioner pulley bearings.
I was going to buy the full idler and tensioner pulleys with their bearings direct from Honda, however a fantastic video from DIYguys on Youtube showed that the bearings themselves can easily be hammered out and replaced.
The pulleys themselves take the common 6203 size bearing with the 2RS model being the recommended low cost alternative.
With this info, I set about ordering the parts.
The auxiliary belt from Honda was over £65.00, again I am all for genuine parts but the price for a belt is pretty ridiculous. Various threads on s2ki showed that the Contitech and gates make excellent alternatives and at a fraction of the cost. The belt change is really straight forward so if this aftermarket belt doesn't last that long they can be replaced easily in 5 mins.
I decided to purchase a Contitech belt from Eurocarparts, with their usual promotional discount it came to £12.39 posted. Absolute bargain.
There were several manufacturers for the bearings, like SRF and Koyo. I decided to purchase a pair of Koyo 6203-2RS bearings. The seller sent me the 2RS-C3 version which has the additional internal radial clearance.
However this should still be fine, it has been installed and operating well so far after 300 miles of driving.
The process was pretty straight forward and enjoyable too.
Everything came apart as expected with no major issues encountered.
Before removing the idler and tensioner pulleys, they were checked to see how worn they were.
Notice how much side to side play the tensioner bearing had and how worn the idler bearing was.
It kept on spinning with a ticking type sound.
See videos below
My Worn Idler Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nXYYJ2PD6I
My Worn Tensioner Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMBiC07JhzE
The original belt had seen better days, various chips in the belt grooves can be seen.
This was noticed all over the belt.
There were also small cracks in the ribbed grooves too.
From DIYguys video, the only socket I didn't have was the large 1-13/16" socket to rest the tensioner pulley on.
I had to purchase this.
Whilst you are in this area, it is also worth checking the condition of the alternator pulley, water pump pulley and air con compressor.
Ensure the water pump pulley spins freely in both directions with no side to side play and ensure no leaks are present. Ensure the alternator pulley also spins freely and check for play and movement. Perform the same checks to the air con compressor.
Give the surrounding areas a good clean and wipe down before reassembling.
Close up of Idler and Tensioner pulley
Close up of ilder pulley and its original bearing
New bearings installed into Idler and tensioner pulleys
With new belt installed
Belt stretch indicator now within specification
A fantastic result and a job that is well worth doing on the s2000.
Things to note
-Unless you have a super fancy torque wrench, it was noticed that my torque wrench doesn't torque up in reverse, so this would need to be done manually.
-As stated on DIYguys video, don't forget the bolt holding the tensioner pulley is a reverse thread
-As mentioned above, perform checks on the water pump, alternator and air con compressor.
-If you have alittle more time, you can refurbish (i.e sand and quickly spray paint the pulleys to smarten them up alittle)
Parts Purchased
Part: Koyo 6203-2RS Bearings (x2)
Part Number: 6203-2RS
Supplier: D.cjohnsonltd (Ebay seller)
Part: 1-13/16" 3/4 Inch Square Drive Socket
Part Number: 1-13/16"
Supplier: Toolvillage (Ebay seller)
Part: ContiTech Drive Auxiliary belt (s2000)
Contitech Part Number: 6PK1468
Supplier: Eurocarparts
For reference (Aux belt part numbers)
Eurocaparts Part Number: 202770585
Genuine Honda Part Number: 38920-PCX-024
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYGuys Video (Pulley Replacement)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1ooX9ZX0Ik
S2ki Thread - Auxiliary Belt Options
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
This brings the car up to date, I have tried to cover as much I could in such a short space of time and before the winter arrives.
I am happy with the way the car drives and looks and now need to drive it more.
This is a small remaining to-do list and will fulfil them with funds allow.
To-do List
-Renew or Refurbish Front Windshield Wiper Arms
-Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500 Type
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading
03-11-2018
Task 41 - Starter Motor Grind in Cold Conditions
19-11-2018
As soon as the temperatures started to drop I noticed something very odd with the s2000. I occasionally will use the s2000 for work and upon engine start I noticed a slight grind just after the engine fired up.
At first I didn't think anything of it, and thought it was me having my finger on the push start button longer than I should have. As the mornings got colder, I noticed it occurring alot more.
I quickly did a search on the forum, and unfortunately it is a common known issue with the starter motors of all s2000's. It affected all years. (apparently it also affects all k20 engines too)
I was quite disappointed at this, with the s2000 being a flagship car for Honda in its hay day, things like this shouldn't occur. The starter motor part is not cheap with a genuine Honda part coming up at £400. From reading up on several threads, most people tend to just live with it. It does not occur at all in milder or summer weather conditions and as the majority of people tend to only use their s2000's in the summer months it is quite often overlooked.
The issue I have is that the constant grind will eventually cause long term damage to the flywheel, and the grinding sound is truly awful.
The basic reason for the grind is a sticking bendix gear mechanism, the sticking causes a slight delay in retracting the pinion gear after engine start which causes the slight grind.
It is not known if Honda ever knew about this issue, and it is believed the starter motor from Honda was never up-issued or superseded to address the problem at all. So inevitably, if you did change the starter motor it would be only a matter of time until the problem returned again.
With this knowledge, I was intending to just live it with it and not use the car as much during the winter months. However a brand new blueprint s2000 starter motor popped up on eBay, a quick message to the seller I decided to take a punt and did a deal.
I manage to bag it for £35 delivered
Several DIY guides showed that the process to remove and fit a starter motor was quite tricky, doable but tricky. With winter in full motion I decided not to tackle it and have my trusty garage to take care of it.
A quick message to Performance Autoworks, a slot was booked in and the job was done within a couple of hours.
The starter motor worked well upon initial fire, several tests over the next coming days proved that the initial grind had disappeared. A great result all at a great price.
Thanks again to Rich at Performance Autoworks and to the fellow members of s2ki UK forum for help and advice.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Starter Motor (Blueprint Version)
Blueprint Part Number: ADH21255
Private Ebay Sale: EBay seller "proud2help"
For reference
Genuine Honda Part Number for Starter Motor: 31200-PCX-A02
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performa ... 1547611908
Resources used
S2ki Thread: "Starter motor grind on cold mornings"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 42 - Quick Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Fairford.
19-11-2018
Just after the starter motor was replaced, we decided to have a quick blast around the surrounding roads.
A lovely rural car park was found so there was only one thing to do
A quick photo shoot of the car as she stands today.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 43 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 3)
(Water Ingress Through Soft Top Hood Drainage Channel)
24-11-2018
Whilst I was washing the s2000 on the weekend, it was noticed that the boot floor on the right hand corner was slightly wet. It was at this instant, I knew I was another victim of the s2000 dreaded water in the boot syndrome.
First task was to strip the boot entirely of its interior trim, all interior trim came out with ease.
There was one tricky bolt securing the OEM CD changer, this attaches the cradle from underneath the chassis. Once removed the main floor trim came out with ease.
Once all the trim was removed, the water also found its way into the main centre section of the boot floor where it had just started to rust.
A quick mop up of the standing water, wire brush with my cordless drill and a couple coats of hammertite paint quickly removed the rust and further protected it.
The condition of the boot was in pretty good shape and there seemed to be no evidence of any crash damage.
With that sorted, the next task was to try and locate the water leak. A quick spray over the hood showed that the water was entering the boot on the back section of the soft top hood. It appeared to be entering with a slow drip just in the corner from the drain gutter channel.
https://youtu.be/0H4RRGVfEqY
The leak was now located but it would be the furthest I could go without dismantling the hood.
It would seem there is a U shaped gutter channel surrounding the back edge of the hood, rain water collects in these channels and directs it to the side of the car.
Photos courtesy of user: Mike’s
With that in mind, my options were either to replace the hood or find a hardtop.
I made some enquiries for the best places for hood replacements, the top ones being Jack Smiths or Monsoon Hoods. I really wanted a hardtop, so the search continued to see if I could get one.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Monsoon Car Hoods
https://www.monsooncarhoods.co.uk/
Jack smith Hoods
https://www.facebook.com/JackRSmithMotorTrimmers/
(Jack smiths does not have a website nor does he communicate via email)
Note: telephone is his only form of communication
Task 44 - Hardtop Purchase
02-12-2018
Whilst browsing the forums and eBay, an s2000 hardtop in Silverstone silver popped up on eBay.
From the images it looked in fabulous condition.
Further enquiries led to additional images and some very minor scratches to the right had side of the hardtop.
There was some minor scratches on the inside upper interior on the passenger side which I didn't mind.
We discussed its pricing and then we struck an agreement.
Overall, for the price it was a fantastic deal, and it would have been too good of a price to pass even with the slight defects.
This would now solve my immediate water leaking issues, I intend to keep the hardtop on until I find the additional funds to replace the hood at a later date.
I've always loved the look of the hardtop, it just completes the fantastic lines of the s2000.
I had a quick look at the original Honda instructions for installing the hardtop, just to be familiar with the process.
The day came to pick up the hardtop. They were based near Bournemouth so it was approx 2 hour drive from home.
It was constantly raining on and off throughout the day, nevertheless, I got there with no drama's or hold ups on the roads and it was great drive. There are some fab roads down there.
The seller was very pleasant and was gutted to let the hardtop go, he had his s2000 for 12 years until he was a victim of the s2000 twitchy rear end. His s2000 was written off.
The hardtop was more fiddly to install than I expected, but the spike brackets lined up great and the front strikers were clamped securely, the revised hardtop strikers will most likely be needed but I will purchase these at a later date. The install was definitely a two person job.
It needs a good clean having been in their garage for many years, but overall I was very pleased with the results.
With the s2000 being a 1999 model, I did not have the circuitry for the rear heater demister, my next task would be to possibly find out if I can get this feature all up and running.
After a few rainy days, it had been confirmed that no further water leakage was entering the boot via the roof area.
However, before re-installing the boot trim the common rear bumper vent will be siliconed up as a precaution.
This to follow at a later task.
Further research shows that a specific loom for the rear heater circuitry has now been discontinued from Honda.
This is specific for the 1999-2001 model of the s2000.
In light of this information, I will be dropping the plans of commissioning the rear demister setup.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Genuine Hardtop Roof
Honda Part Number: Unknown
Private Sale: EBay seller 2nd Hand
Services Used:
None
Resources used
PDF of hardtop installation Instructions
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
S2ki thread - Rear Heater Demister Circuitry
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 45 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 4)
(Water Ingress Through Antenna)
07-12-2018
After a few heavy rainfalls I kept monitoring the boot for any further water ingress, to my disappointment another pool of water was present on the right hand side of the boot.
Further checks showed clearly that it was now entering through the rear antenna.
Placing my hand up around the base of the antenna inside the boot, it showed water had been dripping through.
This seemed to be another common water entrance point for the s2000.
To remove the fastening nut that secures the antenna mount and seals, a special tool was required.
The special tool that is required seems to be similar to a 90 degree bent pliers used for removing circlips.
However, within my tool box I located a tool to remove rear back cases of watches.
This was ideal for the job and fitted the fastening nut perfectly.
The fastening nut and all seals were removed and inspected.
All seals were in good condition and no rips or tears were present.
A good clean were given to all components, including the surrounding area of the body work where the seals are positioned.
Shin entsui silicone grease was used to coat the seals to restore its suppleness and flexibility.
Re-assembly was straight forward.
After several rainfalls, no further water ingress was present.
It may have seemed that the cause of the water leakage was a loose fastening nut.
New seals and components were still readily available from Honda and were reasonably priced.
However, the current components were in such good condition, I felt there was no need for replacements.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 46 - Stereo Removal & Check
18-12-2018
One of the quick easy tasks on the list was to remove the head unit to check for any issues.
The stereo system worked fine, but as this was a very easy task it would be an ideal opportunity to check to see if any dodgy modifications were performed. Especially after seeing the poor execution of the speaker upgrade a while back.
Dealing with anything electronic, it's always ideal to disconnect the main car's battery.
Being an original stereo head unit in known good operating condition, it is not 100% necessary but that is up to you.
The front stereo cover was removed by gently applying outward pressure to the lower section of the cover. The cover pops out revealing the head unit installation screws, 2 self tapers either side of the head unit.
Simply unscrew these and the head unit can be removed. It was that easy.
Thankfully on inspection, it would seem that the head unit has never been touched.
All cabling and wiring are all original, no cutting or splicing was present on any of the ISO block wires.
The head unit's main ISO connector and CD changer connector was unplugged and all its terminals wire brushed and cleaned.
Re-installation was straight forward and a breeze.
Don't forget to re-connect the battery if you disconnected it.
I have no plans in upgrading the stereo, the original system with its original CD changer works fantastic.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Note: If you plan to remove or disconnect the head unit,
Ensure you have the head unit security code to hand, as this will be required upon power up.
(As far as I am aware, all OEM s2000 head units will require a security code if the battery has been disconnected)
Task 47 - Hardtop Clean
18-12-2018
One of the tasks was to deep clean the hardtop, with the previous owner having stored this hardtop in their garage it needed a good clean.
The first task was to hose down and clean the hardtop as normal, detailing brushes were used to remove dirt and grime from the side crevices and all rubber seals and gaskets were wiped down. The latches were thoroughly cleaned with brushes and the headliner was also wiped down.
Being on my own, the hardtop cannot just be removed and placed on the floor to clean, so I had to do what I could with the hardtop slightly unbolted.
Once the hardtop was clean, the rear side interior inner panels were removed, this area was covered in spider webs and dead spiders, it wasn't a pleasant sight. I didn't take a pic of this as I just plodded on in hoovering it all up.
Area now completely clean
Once I was happy with the cleanliness of the hardtop, it was now a case to quickly DA polish the paint work.
I don't have mains power out in the car park, so I had to make use of a DA attachment to a cordless drill.
It is not to bad and useful in removing light marks and blemishes. Meqguries compound polish was used.
After the polishing session, all seals were coated in Shin Entsui silicone grease.
This included the seal which mates to the rear boot lid deck and the seal which mates to the front top section of the windshield. A hardtop will always make noises due to the fact it is not physically part of the car, however siliconing all these seals is highly recommended to help prevent annoying squeaks and rubbing noises.
A rattling noise was also present which was due to the front strikers being the original version and worn out.
Hardtop front striker upgrade will be purchased and installed later to further reduce this hardtop rattling sound.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Meguires DA Drill Attachment Polisher
Task 48 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 5)
(Water Ingress Through Rear Bumper Vent)
28-12-2018
From the previous water ingress issue (Problem 4), the boot was still in a stripped down state as this allowed me to monitor and see if there were any further water ingress issues.
After several checks ,it was confirmed that a very small drip was coming from the rear bumper's one way vent after several heavy rain falls.
Again, this is another common water entry point on all s2000's.
The gasket seal around this vent perishes over time, and can allow water ingress filling up the base pan of the boot.
Due to the tool set being on top of this area, owners tend not to realise that water has been settling underneath for quite some time.
The s2000 is now 20 years old, so it was understandable that this gasket has lost its ability to seal.
To resolve the issue it required the rear bumper to be removed.
On a mild winter's day during the Christmas holidays, I set about to get this sorted.
The rear bumper was removed easily as it was removed on a previous task.
Once the bumper was removed, the vent can be seen. It is unclipped from inside the boot area.
(note: Boot trim to the rear of the car needs to be removed if not already done so)
Once unclipped, the vent can be removed with ease.
The gasket seal was still intact but it was starting to loose its adhesion.
The gasket was peeled away and removed completely.
With the gasket removed, the vent was thoroughly cleaned and checked for any other defects.
Once I was happy no other defects was present, I continued to prep the mating area. This was cleaned and lightly abraded to allow the silicone to adhere to it.
The side clips have to be discarded to allow a flush fit between the vent and chassis.
The silicone chosen for the job was a marine grade type, there are many types of silicone variants available so I wanted one that will last and be a one time job.
I choose Geocel's marine grade type silicone in black.
It was applied to the chassis section and on the vent itself, once applied, the vent was mated up to the chassis.
Force was applied for several minutes to keep it in place and then it held on by itself.
Once cured (24 hours), it gave a superb excellent long lasting seal.
It was then tested and confirmed water tight.
An easy DIY that has now hopefully ended my water ingress issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Geocel Marine Silicone (Black Colour)
Part: N/A
Ebay Link
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Geocel-Marine-Silicone-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 49 - Further Rust Proof Base Pan of Boot
28-12-2018
As soon as the bumper vent was completed, I decided to further protect the base pan of the boot just in case water does find its way into the centre section of the boot for long periods of time.
There were many rust proofing options, however I decided to use the left over Dinitrol 4941 underseal spray I used on the rear bumper undersealing.
I had just over half a can of the stuff so it was ideal.
The base pan of the boot was thoroughly wiped down and cleaned to ensure no grease or oils were on the surface. All debris was also hovered up.
The upper boot floor sections were masked off to prevent any over spray, and a suitable boundary was masked off on the section to the rear of the car. (Just above where the welds are)
It was then just a matter of applying several even light coats and allowing each coat to dry for around 15 minutes.
Once the area was evenly covered the results looked good.
This was left to fully cure and dry.
Note: If applying, the odour of the undersealing application will find its way and affect the main cabin of the car.
This will last several weeks.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 50 - Re-install Boot Trim Interior & Hardtop Interior Side Sections
28-12-2018
After several rainfalls and a session of spraying at all angles of the boot, rear bumper panel gaps, rear antenna and the hardtop seals with my portable jet washer, I was confident no further water ingress into the boot area was possible.
It was now time to re-install all the boot trim.
Firstly, the CD changer was removed, as this would make the floor trim easier to install without fighting in and around the CD changer. The spare wheel was also removed.
The CD changer has one troublesome fastening nut which is located underneath the car.
The tie straps were screwed back into place on the rear section of the boot and then the floor interior trim was placed with ease.
All the original clips were still in good condition and so were re-used.
With the floor trim in place, all the surrounding trim can be fitted easily and clipped back into place.
New clips were purchased for the side panel and rear centre section panels as these crumbled when away when they were removed.
The CD changer was re-installed, and the tool set was placed back into the centre section.
The interior pieces for the hardtop was also re-installed, side edging rubber lining was installed on the end section of these interior pieces. This edge is in close proximity to the metal surface of the hardtop so it should help prevent any squeaks or additional interior noises.
High quality stuff from Tegiwa, it installs on the edge of the trim very nicely.
Great for other areas of the car.
Job Done!
Parts Purchased:
Part: Interior Clip
Part Number: Equivalent to Honda 91505-SL0-003, 91505-ST3-E01ZC and 91505-ST7-003ZA
Supplier: 227sparts (Seller on eBay)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Honda-Trim-Clip...
Part: Rubber Edging for Interior trim
Part Number: 1-2MM Rubber Edging
Supplier: Tegiwa
Tegiwa 1-2mm Rubber trim Edging
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-BLACK-RUBBER-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 51 - End of Year 2018 Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Hertfordshire Ware.
29-12-2018
Another year has drawn to a close and with after 8 months of s2000 ownership I can definitely say it has been both a joy and a troublesome experience. However, I guess you can say that is what a project is all about. Despite the issues, the s2000 has stayed true to itself - being a reliable sports car, mechanically It has never let me down.
A quiet disserted industrial estate was found somewhere in Ware, Hertfordshire, to perform an end of year photo shoot.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 52 - Upgrade OEM Airbox with LHT Modified Version
09-02-2019
From stock, the s2000 does sound great. However, there has always been an urge for that slight air induction growl.
Not wanting to purchase or change the OEM setup, I looked and researched for alternatives.
By removing the top lid cover of the airbox, the intake noise can be achieved but with a sacrifice of power.
The hot temperatures within the engine bay would just be sucked into the air filter, and result in a distinct noticeable loss in power.
As a stock system, the OEM s2000 airbox, despite its size and the fact that it can suck hot air from the radiator is probably one of the best airbox designs.
In my opinion, the stock system looks great and suits the engine bay really well.
I am not keen on those long arm types like the long ram K&N version, it is not very cheap for what it is and it would seem heat soak would be much more worse when compared to the stock airbox. The only upgraded airbox I do like is the JDM password type, but costing nearly £1000 that was definitely a no go.
Several threads and a youtube video describing a small modification to the standard airbox could be the answer.
This youtube video shows this modification step by step in great detail.
I will name it the LHT Airbox Mod.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
By utilizing the existing airbox and setup, 20% more intake noise can be achieved by simply cutting away the middle partition wall of the main section of the air filter box, blocking up the hole for the additional resonator compartment and removing the air duct guide on the top lid of the cover. These areas are there simply to reduce intake noise.
As my airbox is in mint condition I did not want to hack it up, so I searched for a 2nd hand used one.
It was quite a shock to see that 2nd hand airboxes still fetch good money, with some reaching over the £100 mark.
I managed to source one for £35 posted which was I thought was a great price.
Once received I got to work and performed the modifications.
Removing the partition wall was quite tricky, I created four slots downwards in the partition with a hack saw and just snapped the plastic with a pair of pliers as I moved downwards.
I continued to snap away bits of plastic until I got to the bottom edge. I left around a 10 to 15mm lip, so water can stay within their compartments and drain away as normal.
I didn't have a dremel sander, which would have been super useful and provide a much cleaner finish. However, I did what I could manually with a bit of sand paper.
Once the modifications were complete, I was happy with the results.
The 2nd hand airbox itself was pretty cheap so it was in quite poor condition in terms of aesthetics.
The top lid section was pretty scratched up.
Firstly I had to refurb it a little as it would basically take over as my main airbox, so it had to look good.
The airbox was thoroughly washed and cleaned, with the top lid section sanded down briefly with 1200 grade sand paper to help eliminate the scratches.
Once this was done, the lid was given a coat of spray paint to restore its finish. The spray paint was also used to restore the main airbox body too.
The paint used was Halfords black bumper spray which gave the airbox a distinct matt black finish, very close to OEM. It sprayed and covered the area well.
Once dried, I was really happy with the finished article. It looked neat and tidy for very little effort.
With the airbox being held in by 3 bolts, the swap over was painless and easy. By retaining the original unmodified airbox I could swap over back to stock anytime.
The drop in K&N filter was purchased way back in November during the black Friday discounted deals.
Installation was easy and the filter fitted as perfect as the original.
Job done!
The results are fantastic, I would happily report that there is an approx 20% increase in intake noise compared to the stock airbox. It is not over the top and gives a lovely subtle increase of noise.
Due to the K&N filter having a better air flow than the original paper type, it would seem noise also increases further with this filter.
By retaining the stock airbox, the OEM look with a slight increase in noise and no loss of power, this was exactly what I was looking for.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Original OEM s2000 Airbox
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
Part: K&N Drop In Filter
Part Number: E-2435
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Halfords Black Bumper Spray
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repa...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Youtube Video
LHT Airbox Mod
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
Article Comparing Stock Airbox/Lid Removal and LHT Mod
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-20-stock-air...
Task 53 - Investigate Water Leak Through Speaker - (PROBLEM 6)
(Water Ingress Through Speaker Grill)
09-02-2019
On a quick Saturday afternoon drive it was noticed that there was some droplets of water appearing through the passenger side speaker grill.
I couldn't believe it ,yet another water ingress issue on the s2000.
A quick search proved yet again this was another common issue on the s2000.
Not being too bad, it wasn't causing any serious issues within the cabin of the s2000. Carpets were not wet which did show that there wasn't a direct water path and it does seem a slow trickle.
Being a simple design, the door card was swiftly removed. The moisture barrier membrane was still in place with no tears and the speaker itself seemed intact.
No evidence of any apparent water trials to suggest the water was flowing on the back side of the door card. The door card itself was dry with no water damage apparent.
The speaker was removed via 4 self tappers and disconnected.
Water does flow inside the door naturally hence their being drain holes inside the door, however it would appear that water is flowing towards the lower section of the speaker.
(The car is generally parked on an angle in our communal car park, this may aid the flow of water inside the door car towards the speaker)
Further inspection show that the speaker basket contains a gasket seal which should compress against the metal door when positioned in placed. However the gasket fails to seal and a gap is present allow water within the door to flow outwards towards the door card.
Confident that this was the issue, I set about finding a suitable gasket to suitably seal and mate up the speaker basket and door frame.
A good quality neoprene gasket was sourced from work, these are readily available online.
An example link is below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...
f:0
The gasket was cut to long strips similar to the original gasket and then installed around the speaker basket, it compressed well when the speaker was installed.
A quick long water test confirmed that no more water was entering through the speaker grill.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Neoprene Foam Gasket
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...f:0
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki thread - Water Through Speaker Grills
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/water-lea...
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 54 - Refurb Wiper Arms
16-02-2019
As my brother was getting a few of his car parts powder coated, I thought I would grab this opportunity to refurb the wiper arms. New wiper arms are approximately £70 each, with nothing wrong with the current ones it made sense to get them refurbed.
For £10.00 for the pair, it was a no brainer.
A company based in Bovingdon called BJV
(which usually refurbs alloy wheels were the chosen company)
My brother dropped them off on the way to work and with a week's lead time, the process was simple with no hassle.
Once fully fitted, the wipers attached perfectly.
A smear of copper grease was used for the wiper motor's shaft and underside of the wiper arm attachment to prevent any seizing for the future.
The powder coated finish was smooth and consistent throughout the arm, all crevices were evenly covered. A Fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
BJV Engineering
Unit 3, Hatton House, Flaunden Lane, Flaunden, Herts, HP3 0PQ
Tel: 01442 834 169
Email: info@wheelrefurbishing.co.uk
Web: www.wheelrefurbishing.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 55 – MOT Time
23-02-2019
Time came for the s2000 to have its first MOT test within my ownership.
Hopefully all the work and checks I have performed have eliminated any chances of a fail.
Great news, the car passed without any advisories.
The emissions were excellent which showed that the catalytic converter and Lambda sensor were working well.
The dude did mention that I had a bolt missing from my catalytic converter heat shield, this was great news as I did hear a slight exhaust rattle at high rpm.
Overall a great result
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MOT station
Resources used
None
Task 56 - As She Stands
24-02-2019
With the one of the warmest Februaries upon us, there was no excuse to get the car out for a drive on this beautiful Sunday afternoon.
Spirited drive around Hertfordshire's country roads, thoroughly enjoyed every moment.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Upgrade front brake pads to DS2500 type
-Upgrade front windshield roof latches to hardtop type
-Replace engine and gearbox mounts
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
06-03-19
19-11-2018
As soon as the temperatures started to drop I noticed something very odd with the s2000. I occasionally will use the s2000 for work and upon engine start I noticed a slight grind just after the engine fired up.
At first I didn't think anything of it, and thought it was me having my finger on the push start button longer than I should have. As the mornings got colder, I noticed it occurring alot more.
I quickly did a search on the forum, and unfortunately it is a common known issue with the starter motors of all s2000's. It affected all years. (apparently it also affects all k20 engines too)
I was quite disappointed at this, with the s2000 being a flagship car for Honda in its hay day, things like this shouldn't occur. The starter motor part is not cheap with a genuine Honda part coming up at £400. From reading up on several threads, most people tend to just live with it. It does not occur at all in milder or summer weather conditions and as the majority of people tend to only use their s2000's in the summer months it is quite often overlooked.
The issue I have is that the constant grind will eventually cause long term damage to the flywheel, and the grinding sound is truly awful.
The basic reason for the grind is a sticking bendix gear mechanism, the sticking causes a slight delay in retracting the pinion gear after engine start which causes the slight grind.
It is not known if Honda ever knew about this issue, and it is believed the starter motor from Honda was never up-issued or superseded to address the problem at all. So inevitably, if you did change the starter motor it would be only a matter of time until the problem returned again.
With this knowledge, I was intending to just live it with it and not use the car as much during the winter months. However a brand new blueprint s2000 starter motor popped up on eBay, a quick message to the seller I decided to take a punt and did a deal.
I manage to bag it for £35 delivered
Several DIY guides showed that the process to remove and fit a starter motor was quite tricky, doable but tricky. With winter in full motion I decided not to tackle it and have my trusty garage to take care of it.
A quick message to Performance Autoworks, a slot was booked in and the job was done within a couple of hours.
The starter motor worked well upon initial fire, several tests over the next coming days proved that the initial grind had disappeared. A great result all at a great price.
Thanks again to Rich at Performance Autoworks and to the fellow members of s2ki UK forum for help and advice.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Starter Motor (Blueprint Version)
Blueprint Part Number: ADH21255
Private Ebay Sale: EBay seller "proud2help"
For reference
Genuine Honda Part Number for Starter Motor: 31200-PCX-A02
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performa ... 1547611908
Resources used
S2ki Thread: "Starter motor grind on cold mornings"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 42 - Quick Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Fairford.
19-11-2018
Just after the starter motor was replaced, we decided to have a quick blast around the surrounding roads.
A lovely rural car park was found so there was only one thing to do
A quick photo shoot of the car as she stands today.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 43 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 3)
(Water Ingress Through Soft Top Hood Drainage Channel)
24-11-2018
Whilst I was washing the s2000 on the weekend, it was noticed that the boot floor on the right hand corner was slightly wet. It was at this instant, I knew I was another victim of the s2000 dreaded water in the boot syndrome.
First task was to strip the boot entirely of its interior trim, all interior trim came out with ease.
There was one tricky bolt securing the OEM CD changer, this attaches the cradle from underneath the chassis. Once removed the main floor trim came out with ease.
Once all the trim was removed, the water also found its way into the main centre section of the boot floor where it had just started to rust.
A quick mop up of the standing water, wire brush with my cordless drill and a couple coats of hammertite paint quickly removed the rust and further protected it.
The condition of the boot was in pretty good shape and there seemed to be no evidence of any crash damage.
With that sorted, the next task was to try and locate the water leak. A quick spray over the hood showed that the water was entering the boot on the back section of the soft top hood. It appeared to be entering with a slow drip just in the corner from the drain gutter channel.
https://youtu.be/0H4RRGVfEqY
The leak was now located but it would be the furthest I could go without dismantling the hood.
It would seem there is a U shaped gutter channel surrounding the back edge of the hood, rain water collects in these channels and directs it to the side of the car.
Photos courtesy of user: Mike’s
With that in mind, my options were either to replace the hood or find a hardtop.
I made some enquiries for the best places for hood replacements, the top ones being Jack Smiths or Monsoon Hoods. I really wanted a hardtop, so the search continued to see if I could get one.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Monsoon Car Hoods
https://www.monsooncarhoods.co.uk/
Jack smith Hoods
https://www.facebook.com/JackRSmithMotorTrimmers/
(Jack smiths does not have a website nor does he communicate via email)
Note: telephone is his only form of communication
Task 44 - Hardtop Purchase
02-12-2018
Whilst browsing the forums and eBay, an s2000 hardtop in Silverstone silver popped up on eBay.
From the images it looked in fabulous condition.
Further enquiries led to additional images and some very minor scratches to the right had side of the hardtop.
There was some minor scratches on the inside upper interior on the passenger side which I didn't mind.
We discussed its pricing and then we struck an agreement.
Overall, for the price it was a fantastic deal, and it would have been too good of a price to pass even with the slight defects.
This would now solve my immediate water leaking issues, I intend to keep the hardtop on until I find the additional funds to replace the hood at a later date.
I've always loved the look of the hardtop, it just completes the fantastic lines of the s2000.
I had a quick look at the original Honda instructions for installing the hardtop, just to be familiar with the process.
The day came to pick up the hardtop. They were based near Bournemouth so it was approx 2 hour drive from home.
It was constantly raining on and off throughout the day, nevertheless, I got there with no drama's or hold ups on the roads and it was great drive. There are some fab roads down there.
The seller was very pleasant and was gutted to let the hardtop go, he had his s2000 for 12 years until he was a victim of the s2000 twitchy rear end. His s2000 was written off.
The hardtop was more fiddly to install than I expected, but the spike brackets lined up great and the front strikers were clamped securely, the revised hardtop strikers will most likely be needed but I will purchase these at a later date. The install was definitely a two person job.
It needs a good clean having been in their garage for many years, but overall I was very pleased with the results.
With the s2000 being a 1999 model, I did not have the circuitry for the rear heater demister, my next task would be to possibly find out if I can get this feature all up and running.
After a few rainy days, it had been confirmed that no further water leakage was entering the boot via the roof area.
However, before re-installing the boot trim the common rear bumper vent will be siliconed up as a precaution.
This to follow at a later task.
Further research shows that a specific loom for the rear heater circuitry has now been discontinued from Honda.
This is specific for the 1999-2001 model of the s2000.
In light of this information, I will be dropping the plans of commissioning the rear demister setup.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Genuine Hardtop Roof
Honda Part Number: Unknown
Private Sale: EBay seller 2nd Hand
Services Used:
None
Resources used
PDF of hardtop installation Instructions
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
S2ki thread - Rear Heater Demister Circuitry
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 45 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 4)
(Water Ingress Through Antenna)
07-12-2018
After a few heavy rainfalls I kept monitoring the boot for any further water ingress, to my disappointment another pool of water was present on the right hand side of the boot.
Further checks showed clearly that it was now entering through the rear antenna.
Placing my hand up around the base of the antenna inside the boot, it showed water had been dripping through.
This seemed to be another common water entrance point for the s2000.
To remove the fastening nut that secures the antenna mount and seals, a special tool was required.
The special tool that is required seems to be similar to a 90 degree bent pliers used for removing circlips.
However, within my tool box I located a tool to remove rear back cases of watches.
This was ideal for the job and fitted the fastening nut perfectly.
The fastening nut and all seals were removed and inspected.
All seals were in good condition and no rips or tears were present.
A good clean were given to all components, including the surrounding area of the body work where the seals are positioned.
Shin entsui silicone grease was used to coat the seals to restore its suppleness and flexibility.
Re-assembly was straight forward.
After several rainfalls, no further water ingress was present.
It may have seemed that the cause of the water leakage was a loose fastening nut.
New seals and components were still readily available from Honda and were reasonably priced.
However, the current components were in such good condition, I felt there was no need for replacements.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 46 - Stereo Removal & Check
18-12-2018
One of the quick easy tasks on the list was to remove the head unit to check for any issues.
The stereo system worked fine, but as this was a very easy task it would be an ideal opportunity to check to see if any dodgy modifications were performed. Especially after seeing the poor execution of the speaker upgrade a while back.
Dealing with anything electronic, it's always ideal to disconnect the main car's battery.
Being an original stereo head unit in known good operating condition, it is not 100% necessary but that is up to you.
The front stereo cover was removed by gently applying outward pressure to the lower section of the cover. The cover pops out revealing the head unit installation screws, 2 self tapers either side of the head unit.
Simply unscrew these and the head unit can be removed. It was that easy.
Thankfully on inspection, it would seem that the head unit has never been touched.
All cabling and wiring are all original, no cutting or splicing was present on any of the ISO block wires.
The head unit's main ISO connector and CD changer connector was unplugged and all its terminals wire brushed and cleaned.
Re-installation was straight forward and a breeze.
Don't forget to re-connect the battery if you disconnected it.
I have no plans in upgrading the stereo, the original system with its original CD changer works fantastic.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Note: If you plan to remove or disconnect the head unit,
Ensure you have the head unit security code to hand, as this will be required upon power up.
(As far as I am aware, all OEM s2000 head units will require a security code if the battery has been disconnected)
Task 47 - Hardtop Clean
18-12-2018
One of the tasks was to deep clean the hardtop, with the previous owner having stored this hardtop in their garage it needed a good clean.
The first task was to hose down and clean the hardtop as normal, detailing brushes were used to remove dirt and grime from the side crevices and all rubber seals and gaskets were wiped down. The latches were thoroughly cleaned with brushes and the headliner was also wiped down.
Being on my own, the hardtop cannot just be removed and placed on the floor to clean, so I had to do what I could with the hardtop slightly unbolted.
Once the hardtop was clean, the rear side interior inner panels were removed, this area was covered in spider webs and dead spiders, it wasn't a pleasant sight. I didn't take a pic of this as I just plodded on in hoovering it all up.
Area now completely clean
Once I was happy with the cleanliness of the hardtop, it was now a case to quickly DA polish the paint work.
I don't have mains power out in the car park, so I had to make use of a DA attachment to a cordless drill.
It is not to bad and useful in removing light marks and blemishes. Meqguries compound polish was used.
After the polishing session, all seals were coated in Shin Entsui silicone grease.
This included the seal which mates to the rear boot lid deck and the seal which mates to the front top section of the windshield. A hardtop will always make noises due to the fact it is not physically part of the car, however siliconing all these seals is highly recommended to help prevent annoying squeaks and rubbing noises.
A rattling noise was also present which was due to the front strikers being the original version and worn out.
Hardtop front striker upgrade will be purchased and installed later to further reduce this hardtop rattling sound.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Meguires DA Drill Attachment Polisher
Task 48 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 5)
(Water Ingress Through Rear Bumper Vent)
28-12-2018
From the previous water ingress issue (Problem 4), the boot was still in a stripped down state as this allowed me to monitor and see if there were any further water ingress issues.
After several checks ,it was confirmed that a very small drip was coming from the rear bumper's one way vent after several heavy rain falls.
Again, this is another common water entry point on all s2000's.
The gasket seal around this vent perishes over time, and can allow water ingress filling up the base pan of the boot.
Due to the tool set being on top of this area, owners tend not to realise that water has been settling underneath for quite some time.
The s2000 is now 20 years old, so it was understandable that this gasket has lost its ability to seal.
To resolve the issue it required the rear bumper to be removed.
On a mild winter's day during the Christmas holidays, I set about to get this sorted.
The rear bumper was removed easily as it was removed on a previous task.
Once the bumper was removed, the vent can be seen. It is unclipped from inside the boot area.
(note: Boot trim to the rear of the car needs to be removed if not already done so)
Once unclipped, the vent can be removed with ease.
The gasket seal was still intact but it was starting to loose its adhesion.
The gasket was peeled away and removed completely.
With the gasket removed, the vent was thoroughly cleaned and checked for any other defects.
Once I was happy no other defects was present, I continued to prep the mating area. This was cleaned and lightly abraded to allow the silicone to adhere to it.
The side clips have to be discarded to allow a flush fit between the vent and chassis.
The silicone chosen for the job was a marine grade type, there are many types of silicone variants available so I wanted one that will last and be a one time job.
I choose Geocel's marine grade type silicone in black.
It was applied to the chassis section and on the vent itself, once applied, the vent was mated up to the chassis.
Force was applied for several minutes to keep it in place and then it held on by itself.
Once cured (24 hours), it gave a superb excellent long lasting seal.
It was then tested and confirmed water tight.
An easy DIY that has now hopefully ended my water ingress issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Geocel Marine Silicone (Black Colour)
Part: N/A
Ebay Link
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Geocel-Marine-Silicone-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 49 - Further Rust Proof Base Pan of Boot
28-12-2018
As soon as the bumper vent was completed, I decided to further protect the base pan of the boot just in case water does find its way into the centre section of the boot for long periods of time.
There were many rust proofing options, however I decided to use the left over Dinitrol 4941 underseal spray I used on the rear bumper undersealing.
I had just over half a can of the stuff so it was ideal.
The base pan of the boot was thoroughly wiped down and cleaned to ensure no grease or oils were on the surface. All debris was also hovered up.
The upper boot floor sections were masked off to prevent any over spray, and a suitable boundary was masked off on the section to the rear of the car. (Just above where the welds are)
It was then just a matter of applying several even light coats and allowing each coat to dry for around 15 minutes.
Once the area was evenly covered the results looked good.
This was left to fully cure and dry.
Note: If applying, the odour of the undersealing application will find its way and affect the main cabin of the car.
This will last several weeks.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 50 - Re-install Boot Trim Interior & Hardtop Interior Side Sections
28-12-2018
After several rainfalls and a session of spraying at all angles of the boot, rear bumper panel gaps, rear antenna and the hardtop seals with my portable jet washer, I was confident no further water ingress into the boot area was possible.
It was now time to re-install all the boot trim.
Firstly, the CD changer was removed, as this would make the floor trim easier to install without fighting in and around the CD changer. The spare wheel was also removed.
The CD changer has one troublesome fastening nut which is located underneath the car.
The tie straps were screwed back into place on the rear section of the boot and then the floor interior trim was placed with ease.
All the original clips were still in good condition and so were re-used.
With the floor trim in place, all the surrounding trim can be fitted easily and clipped back into place.
New clips were purchased for the side panel and rear centre section panels as these crumbled when away when they were removed.
The CD changer was re-installed, and the tool set was placed back into the centre section.
The interior pieces for the hardtop was also re-installed, side edging rubber lining was installed on the end section of these interior pieces. This edge is in close proximity to the metal surface of the hardtop so it should help prevent any squeaks or additional interior noises.
High quality stuff from Tegiwa, it installs on the edge of the trim very nicely.
Great for other areas of the car.
Job Done!
Parts Purchased:
Part: Interior Clip
Part Number: Equivalent to Honda 91505-SL0-003, 91505-ST3-E01ZC and 91505-ST7-003ZA
Supplier: 227sparts (Seller on eBay)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Honda-Trim-Clip...
Part: Rubber Edging for Interior trim
Part Number: 1-2MM Rubber Edging
Supplier: Tegiwa
Tegiwa 1-2mm Rubber trim Edging
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-BLACK-RUBBER-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 51 - End of Year 2018 Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Hertfordshire Ware.
29-12-2018
Another year has drawn to a close and with after 8 months of s2000 ownership I can definitely say it has been both a joy and a troublesome experience. However, I guess you can say that is what a project is all about. Despite the issues, the s2000 has stayed true to itself - being a reliable sports car, mechanically It has never let me down.
A quiet disserted industrial estate was found somewhere in Ware, Hertfordshire, to perform an end of year photo shoot.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 52 - Upgrade OEM Airbox with LHT Modified Version
09-02-2019
From stock, the s2000 does sound great. However, there has always been an urge for that slight air induction growl.
Not wanting to purchase or change the OEM setup, I looked and researched for alternatives.
By removing the top lid cover of the airbox, the intake noise can be achieved but with a sacrifice of power.
The hot temperatures within the engine bay would just be sucked into the air filter, and result in a distinct noticeable loss in power.
As a stock system, the OEM s2000 airbox, despite its size and the fact that it can suck hot air from the radiator is probably one of the best airbox designs.
In my opinion, the stock system looks great and suits the engine bay really well.
I am not keen on those long arm types like the long ram K&N version, it is not very cheap for what it is and it would seem heat soak would be much more worse when compared to the stock airbox. The only upgraded airbox I do like is the JDM password type, but costing nearly £1000 that was definitely a no go.
Several threads and a youtube video describing a small modification to the standard airbox could be the answer.
This youtube video shows this modification step by step in great detail.
I will name it the LHT Airbox Mod.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
By utilizing the existing airbox and setup, 20% more intake noise can be achieved by simply cutting away the middle partition wall of the main section of the air filter box, blocking up the hole for the additional resonator compartment and removing the air duct guide on the top lid of the cover. These areas are there simply to reduce intake noise.
As my airbox is in mint condition I did not want to hack it up, so I searched for a 2nd hand used one.
It was quite a shock to see that 2nd hand airboxes still fetch good money, with some reaching over the £100 mark.
I managed to source one for £35 posted which was I thought was a great price.
Once received I got to work and performed the modifications.
Removing the partition wall was quite tricky, I created four slots downwards in the partition with a hack saw and just snapped the plastic with a pair of pliers as I moved downwards.
I continued to snap away bits of plastic until I got to the bottom edge. I left around a 10 to 15mm lip, so water can stay within their compartments and drain away as normal.
I didn't have a dremel sander, which would have been super useful and provide a much cleaner finish. However, I did what I could manually with a bit of sand paper.
Once the modifications were complete, I was happy with the results.
The 2nd hand airbox itself was pretty cheap so it was in quite poor condition in terms of aesthetics.
The top lid section was pretty scratched up.
Firstly I had to refurb it a little as it would basically take over as my main airbox, so it had to look good.
The airbox was thoroughly washed and cleaned, with the top lid section sanded down briefly with 1200 grade sand paper to help eliminate the scratches.
Once this was done, the lid was given a coat of spray paint to restore its finish. The spray paint was also used to restore the main airbox body too.
The paint used was Halfords black bumper spray which gave the airbox a distinct matt black finish, very close to OEM. It sprayed and covered the area well.
Once dried, I was really happy with the finished article. It looked neat and tidy for very little effort.
With the airbox being held in by 3 bolts, the swap over was painless and easy. By retaining the original unmodified airbox I could swap over back to stock anytime.
The drop in K&N filter was purchased way back in November during the black Friday discounted deals.
Installation was easy and the filter fitted as perfect as the original.
Job done!
The results are fantastic, I would happily report that there is an approx 20% increase in intake noise compared to the stock airbox. It is not over the top and gives a lovely subtle increase of noise.
Due to the K&N filter having a better air flow than the original paper type, it would seem noise also increases further with this filter.
By retaining the stock airbox, the OEM look with a slight increase in noise and no loss of power, this was exactly what I was looking for.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Original OEM s2000 Airbox
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
Part: K&N Drop In Filter
Part Number: E-2435
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Halfords Black Bumper Spray
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repa...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Youtube Video
LHT Airbox Mod
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
Article Comparing Stock Airbox/Lid Removal and LHT Mod
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-20-stock-air...
Task 53 - Investigate Water Leak Through Speaker - (PROBLEM 6)
(Water Ingress Through Speaker Grill)
09-02-2019
On a quick Saturday afternoon drive it was noticed that there was some droplets of water appearing through the passenger side speaker grill.
I couldn't believe it ,yet another water ingress issue on the s2000.
A quick search proved yet again this was another common issue on the s2000.
Not being too bad, it wasn't causing any serious issues within the cabin of the s2000. Carpets were not wet which did show that there wasn't a direct water path and it does seem a slow trickle.
Being a simple design, the door card was swiftly removed. The moisture barrier membrane was still in place with no tears and the speaker itself seemed intact.
No evidence of any apparent water trials to suggest the water was flowing on the back side of the door card. The door card itself was dry with no water damage apparent.
The speaker was removed via 4 self tappers and disconnected.
Water does flow inside the door naturally hence their being drain holes inside the door, however it would appear that water is flowing towards the lower section of the speaker.
(The car is generally parked on an angle in our communal car park, this may aid the flow of water inside the door car towards the speaker)
Further inspection show that the speaker basket contains a gasket seal which should compress against the metal door when positioned in placed. However the gasket fails to seal and a gap is present allow water within the door to flow outwards towards the door card.
Confident that this was the issue, I set about finding a suitable gasket to suitably seal and mate up the speaker basket and door frame.
A good quality neoprene gasket was sourced from work, these are readily available online.
An example link is below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...
f:0The gasket was cut to long strips similar to the original gasket and then installed around the speaker basket, it compressed well when the speaker was installed.
A quick long water test confirmed that no more water was entering through the speaker grill.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Neoprene Foam Gasket
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...
f:0Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki thread - Water Through Speaker Grills
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/water-lea...
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 54 - Refurb Wiper Arms
16-02-2019
As my brother was getting a few of his car parts powder coated, I thought I would grab this opportunity to refurb the wiper arms. New wiper arms are approximately £70 each, with nothing wrong with the current ones it made sense to get them refurbed.
For £10.00 for the pair, it was a no brainer.
A company based in Bovingdon called BJV
(which usually refurbs alloy wheels were the chosen company)
My brother dropped them off on the way to work and with a week's lead time, the process was simple with no hassle.
Once fully fitted, the wipers attached perfectly.
A smear of copper grease was used for the wiper motor's shaft and underside of the wiper arm attachment to prevent any seizing for the future.
The powder coated finish was smooth and consistent throughout the arm, all crevices were evenly covered. A Fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
BJV Engineering
Unit 3, Hatton House, Flaunden Lane, Flaunden, Herts, HP3 0PQ
Tel: 01442 834 169
Email: info@wheelrefurbishing.co.uk
Web: www.wheelrefurbishing.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 55 – MOT Time
23-02-2019
Time came for the s2000 to have its first MOT test within my ownership.
Hopefully all the work and checks I have performed have eliminated any chances of a fail.
Great news, the car passed without any advisories.
The emissions were excellent which showed that the catalytic converter and Lambda sensor were working well.
The dude did mention that I had a bolt missing from my catalytic converter heat shield, this was great news as I did hear a slight exhaust rattle at high rpm.
Overall a great result
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MOT station
Resources used
None
Task 56 - As She Stands
24-02-2019
With the one of the warmest Februaries upon us, there was no excuse to get the car out for a drive on this beautiful Sunday afternoon.
Spirited drive around Hertfordshire's country roads, thoroughly enjoyed every moment.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Upgrade front brake pads to DS2500 type
-Upgrade front windshield roof latches to hardtop type
-Replace engine and gearbox mounts
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
06-03-19
Thanks for the great response guys
I will endeavour to keep this thread updated.
There is still lots to do, looking forward to when the weather improves.
Did you suffer from any oil starvation issue whilst on track? Does the s2000 need the sump baffled at all?
I really wish I had a garage so I can get much more involved with it.
Its quite minor and have just touched it up for now. It is definitely on my to do list although not really a priority at the moment.
The alignment will probably cost alot so currently preparing for the worse case on that one.
There's a few minor section around the body which If it does go into to the body shop I can rectify all those issues at once.
I have almost had it a year now but feel I have still not enjoyed it to the its fullest yet.
I will endeavour to keep this thread updated.
There is still lots to do, looking forward to when the weather improves.
SiT said:
I have bookmarked this thread as it looks a cracking read!
I owned an ‘04 GT spec car and it was amazing, an experience everytime I drove it. Bought it, did a oil change, drive it The Ring and back and it didn’t put a foot wrong!
Enjoy
Si
Wow, that must have been an epic experience. Thats a trip o my bucket list if I ever have a chance to do it.I owned an ‘04 GT spec car and it was amazing, an experience everytime I drove it. Bought it, did a oil change, drive it The Ring and back and it didn’t put a foot wrong!
Enjoy
Si
Did you suffer from any oil starvation issue whilst on track? Does the s2000 need the sump baffled at all?
spreadsheet monkey said:
Great thread. Interesting to see how easy (or otherwise) these are to work on.
Keep us updated!
Indeed they are, logically put together. The Japanese have always been good at this.Keep us updated!
I really wish I had a garage so I can get much more involved with it.
anxious_ant said:
Lovely read, this is what PH should be about!
Liking how you stick to OEM all the way.
Thanks anxious_ant, there is always an urge though to modify it. Always thought a nice set of Miester R coilovers and perhaps a set of TE37s or Enkei RFP01 would really set the car off - hehe. Alot of money though for those parts. Liking how you stick to OEM all the way.
Gooly said:
Amazing attention to detail. Always wanted one of these
Thanks Gooly, it certainly doesn't disappoint. familyguy1 said:
a great read, thanks for sharing.
One thing I did not but not seen you tackle or mention was the "-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill", is this still pending ?
Well spotted familyguy1 One thing I did not but not seen you tackle or mention was the "-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill", is this still pending ?
Its quite minor and have just touched it up for now. It is definitely on my to do list although not really a priority at the moment.
The alignment will probably cost alot so currently preparing for the worse case on that one.
There's a few minor section around the body which If it does go into to the body shop I can rectify all those issues at once.
cb1965 said:
Stupid thread, way too brief, re-post and be a bit more thorough as to exactly what you did 
Seriously though, a brilliant read and a fantastic example of the marque. Mine was still the best all round ownership experience I have ever had. Should never have sold it.
How comes you sold it?Seriously though, a brilliant read and a fantastic example of the marque. Mine was still the best all round ownership experience I have ever had. Should never have sold it.
I have almost had it a year now but feel I have still not enjoyed it to the its fullest yet.
xjay1337 said:
Get the alignment done... seems silly to spend hundreds and hundreds on other little bits when the alignment is key on an already sketchy car
Also, above poster, the guy is joking................god some people are truly joyless
Thanks xjay1337, the alignment is definitely going to get done. I think I have just avoided it until last as I am scared on the massive cost it will take to rectify it. lol. Hence saving up for the worse case, which I have heard can cost over £1k to sort it out. Also, above poster, the guy is joking................god some people are truly joyless
Tigger2050 said:
Great thread.
Thanks for taking the time to post all this, it is no short matter that's for sure.
Thanks tigger2050, hopefully this thread can inspire people and help them if they have the same car and similar issues.Thanks for taking the time to post all this, it is no short matter that's for sure.
sharifr1 said:
Brilliant thread and great attention to detail!
I had a 2004 GT and it was the best car I've ever owned! I regret selling it! Especially seeing the prices they are going for now.
Thanks Sharifr1, I do love the facelifts. Sometimes I think I should have got a facelift, but as you say they are double the price of the pre-facelifts.I had a 2004 GT and it was the best car I've ever owned! I regret selling it! Especially seeing the prices they are going for now.
How comes you sold it in the end?
cb1965 said:
Mine was a 2005 in black with red interior. I bought it in 2008 and sold it in 2013 to help finance my SL55 renovation.
I did 140K in the S2000 in all weathers and outside of consumables it didn't cost me a bean. Way better than the Boxster S I had before it in every way, shape and form. It's one of only 3 cars I regret selling, the others being an Integra Type R DC2 and a Jag XJ8. Ah well.
Crikey 140k, thats amazing. Would love to daily it if i could but it nice to have it as a novelty toy to use when you want to go for a drive.I did 140K in the S2000 in all weathers and outside of consumables it didn't cost me a bean. Way better than the Boxster S I had before it in every way, shape and form. It's one of only 3 cars I regret selling, the others being an Integra Type R DC2 and a Jag XJ8. Ah well.
A friend of mine had a dc2, probably the best fwd car ever made.
ChocolateFrog said:
You'd be the perfect person to buy a car off. Very nice. I've got a Mk1 Insight that was built in the same factory and I can see some parts that's were obviously shared between the two.
Personally I wouldn't use copper grease for moving parts, I'd use a moly based grease and I'm not a fan of K & N' s either as they may flow more air (doubtful over a new pleated paper filter) but it will be at the cost of poorer filtration not to mention the circumstantial evidence that the oil damages MAFs. Those points are just IME.
The car is a credit to you though.
Thanks chocolate frog, the mk1 insight was a special car. Real shame it never took off. Personally I wouldn't use copper grease for moving parts, I'd use a moly based grease and I'm not a fan of K & N' s either as they may flow more air (doubtful over a new pleated paper filter) but it will be at the cost of poorer filtration not to mention the circumstantial evidence that the oil damages MAFs. Those points are just IME.
The car is a credit to you though.
Totally understand with regards to the K&N stuff. Read so many reviews and threads about them.
The great thing about the K&N in the s2000, is that it is a 2 minute change over back to stock. I bought it to give it a go as it was pretty cheap on black Friday deals.
Having said that, I do agree with it letting in more debris when compared to the original paper type filter.
If i was using the s2000 everyday for work then I would definitely not use the K&N type filters. My daily commuter which is an ictdi Diesel Accord which I always service it using genuine Honda paper filters for that reason. Being the daily there is no gain for performance and longevity is the name of the game here.
As the s2000 only see's around 2000 miles a year and the engine oil being religiously changed within that time, the compromise of using the K&N filter for better air flow has its advantage.
Of course this is the same for many after market induction kits and filters [i.e AEM, password JDM etc], you always have to compromise filtration for airflow and from all the forums I have been on i have not heard of any catastrophic engine failure due to using after market induction filters.
Its great to hear your opinion though, always good to hear other peoples thoughts
I'll be using the K&N filter and seeing how it performs and swap between the two. If there is no real benefit I shall go back to the original paper filter.
sharifr1 said:
They have gone up in price quite a lot since I sold mine.
I only sold it as I was trying to start a business. I regret letting it go.
Here's a picture from just before I sold it.
Looks amazing sharifr1, I can imagine you were absolutely gutted for letting her go. Looked stunning.I only sold it as I was trying to start a business. I regret letting it go.
Here's a picture from just before I sold it.
I guess definitely for the right reasons, especially starting your own business. I hope that is going well.
xjay1337 said:
OP why is an alignment such a worry. Costs £100 max?? Usually less from a friendly garage.
Some bushes may be seized (typical on many cars) but usually you can still get some adjustment ?
Certainly as you seem quite anal about things which is not a bad thing that would certainly be the top of my priority list certainly on a drivers car!
The issue with the s2000, when they were new Honda didnt grease the alignment bolts sufficiently from the factory. Some bushes may be seized (typical on many cars) but usually you can still get some adjustment ?
Certainly as you seem quite anal about things which is not a bad thing that would certainly be the top of my priority list certainly on a drivers car!
The s2000 has full toe, caster and camber alignment front and rear which is quite unique for a stock factory car.
With most s2000's getting on abit [mine is now 20 years old] and with alignment often overlooked by previous owners, these bolts are 100% seized up unless the previous owner had the work done, if they are seized the arms have to be cut out which therefore means new control arms which can cost £250+ a corner [genuine honda arms are around £400 a corner]. Add to this the labour for the work it can get rather expensive.
Alignment is vital to exploit the full potential for any s2000, so it is a must that this task is completed.
I did get the the standard toe front aligned when I got the new tyres, but the guys at pro tyre said they know about these cars and were reluctant to touch the camber, toe and castor for the rear. They were concerned that if they touched it it will disturb the current setting and probably make it worse if they tried to adjust it, even possibly shearing a bolt.
They recommended I go to a specialist.
Who knows, all bolts could be fine and yep might only cost me £100 or so just for the alignment. Finger crossed.
This is also the reason why I haven't taken the car to any road trips or track days yet until this is sorted.
Rest assured it is on my list for this year
xjay1337 said:
Ahh I see. Didn't realise the arms have to be cut out!
That's a bad design haha.
But look forward to future updates cheers for a decent informative reply.
Your welcome xjay1337,That's a bad design haha.
But look forward to future updates
cheers for a decent informative reply.haha, I think it was more of cost cutting at Honda at the time.
The control arms should have been aluminium, but again that would have been so much money for a car that only cost £24k new in 1999.
Will definitely keep the thread up to date.
motor mad said:
Thanks for taking the time to document all this 
Your welcome motormad Jurgen said:
Impressive write up! Car appears to be in very nice condition and I like that you keep it mostly original. I’ve had my ’00 model for just over 8 years now and have no intention of selling it. It used to be my daily driver, but that never really worked for me (pretty noisy and harsh). As a weekend car it is fantastic though!
Interesting to see the bumper lip and the rear spoiler though. They do look good, but I also kinda like the standard clean lines. Did you buy an oem front lip? Or it is a pre-painted fibreglass copy? I might consider that at some point.
Mine is mostly original as well, but after so many years of ownership I did start to change a few things along the way. I’ve changed the 16” wheels for the 17” facelift wheels and had them powdercoated. I replaced the oem shocks/springs with some Bilstein B14 coilovers, which was probably my best investment in the car. Quite a bit firmer than standard, but still has compliance and turn-in is so much sharper! I’ve also replaced the brake hoses with some goodrigde braided ones and run DS2500 pads (great for fast road use).
Make sure you do get that alignment checked though, can make a huge difference. My bolts were mostly ok, but one had to be persuaded with some heat and has been fine since. I try to get it checked about once every 2 years or so.
Anyway enjoy the car! Here’s a cheeky pic of mine in the same colour combination (although LHD)
Your s2000 looks stunning, it looks so clean and fresh. Interesting to see the bumper lip and the rear spoiler though. They do look good, but I also kinda like the standard clean lines. Did you buy an oem front lip? Or it is a pre-painted fibreglass copy? I might consider that at some point.
Mine is mostly original as well, but after so many years of ownership I did start to change a few things along the way. I’ve changed the 16” wheels for the 17” facelift wheels and had them powdercoated. I replaced the oem shocks/springs with some Bilstein B14 coilovers, which was probably my best investment in the car. Quite a bit firmer than standard, but still has compliance and turn-in is so much sharper! I’ve also replaced the brake hoses with some goodrigde braided ones and run DS2500 pads (great for fast road use).
Make sure you do get that alignment checked though, can make a huge difference. My bolts were mostly ok, but one had to be persuaded with some heat and has been fine since. I try to get it checked about once every 2 years or so.
Anyway enjoy the car! Here’s a cheeky pic of mine in the same colour combination (although LHD)
I do agree, it is noisy and harsh if it were a daily, although the hardtop really does insulate the cabin alot.
The front lip is a genuine Honda part, other replica's were no good and were not advised unless you had access to a body shop to help fabricate it to fit. The genuine one fitted in 20 mins and came pre painted with all the screws etc to fit it. It was perfect.
It was very costly, haha. but I reckon the hassle and inconvenience saved is so worth it.
They are still available to buy from Honda, coxmotorparts sourced it for me from Japan. Great guys
Great upgrades, those were the upgrades I was thinking about. Although i was thinking of going Miester R rather than Bilsten.
DS2500 pads are waiting to go on
Your lucky with the geo bolts, I hope I get the ame luck. lol.
Thanks jurgen, will definitely enjoy the car when the weather gets warmer
Matt Clay said:
What an awesome thread, thank you for that.
Also nice to see everyone else sharing their S2ks.
Thanks matt, your welcome.Also nice to see everyone else sharing their S2ks.
It is lovely to see other peoples s2000's, makes you just want to go for a drive. lol
Dr G said:
You've done a lovely job bringing that up to tip top condition
Tasteful colour combination too.
Thanks Dr G, I did want a black s2000 but the silver stone silver has definitely grown on me now. Tasteful colour combination too.
Still alot to do and with all project cars, I doubt it will ever end. lol
cb1965 said:
140K with ease and everything felt as good as it did the day I bought it. Like you I did some preventative maintenance especially with the hood and seals, but overall it cost me nothing out of the ordinary.
Agree re. DC2, used to track it as standard and could lap Oulton faster than a lot of tricked up Imprezas that used to come down there. Had 5 Imprezas in my time as well so no bias to me saying that.
Did you ever change the TCT (timing chain tensioner), I was thinking of changing it but thought I might aswell wait until it does go.Agree re. DC2, used to track it as standard and could lap Oulton faster than a lot of tricked up Imprezas that used to come down there. Had 5 Imprezas in my time as well so no bias to me saying that.
Haha, I do believe you with the DC2 capabilities. What a machine.
lucebayjack said:
I can confirm S2k ownership is a wonderful thing. I have had mine for 4 years. Beyond oil and filters it has needed nothing. What other car can redline at 9k and is so easy to live with. I’ve just got mine sorted but may soon have to sell. Not a great second car when you have 3 kids.
Haha, I can imagine it must be hard with 3 kids. Don't sell it, you will regret it. Stick it in storage somewhere until the kids grow up. hehe. Lovely to see your's in complete standard form. That 9k rpm limit is just epic.
Edited by s2000_f20 on Friday 8th March 15:00
CedricN said:
Tried a KN panel filter during my dyno session, lost quite a bit of power with it compared to the stock paper filter. Could be different with the cones, but it sure isnt a guaranteed performance benefit.
Really nice s2000 btw !
Thanks Cedric, I think the cone filters are behave differently to the panel types. Most cone filters should improve performance.Really nice s2000 btw !
Since the s2000 comes with a cone filter as standard the upgrade in performance i think would be quite marginal.
Jurgen said:
Are you also considering to change bits in the interior? I always really disliked the carpet on the center tunnel in the early versions, the later ones have a leather (or vinyl?) cover which looks more appealing. One of the first things I did after buying the car is ordering a black leather cover (with red stitching) that makes it look so much nicer (at least in my opinion!). It’s very easy to fit and tranforms the interior. I’ve also changed the shifter boot to a similar style (red stichting and black leather) and changed the radio door for a later silver version. Small changes that make the interior a nicer place to be.
I did think and was tempted by upgrading the interior with face lift components, but to be honest I thought keeping it all original was the key.Most of the facelift interior stuff are very pricey and I would want to keep and store all the original items too which would be extremely difficult as I dont have any storage. I was even tempted by getting a skunk2 gearknob, had it in my prelude and the shift feels great with one.
The interior as it is lovely, and in great condition so it would probably make sense to spend the money on the geo alignment and proper hardtop brackets instead.
chrismc1977 said:
Won’t go far wrong with PAW tending to the mechanical bits.
I’m very fortunate that they are only 15mins from me so my DC2 wants for nothing
You are very lucky. He is just over 2.5 hours away from me, but always worth it for anything major that requires doing.I’m very fortunate that they are only 15mins from me so my DC2 wants for nothing
Rich at PAW is very good indeed, took my 99 Prelude H22a8 2.2vti to him for the first time way back in 2010 after it needed an auto to manual H23 tensioner conversion. The auto tensioner collapsed.
Court_S said:
Great attention to detail.
I think these have aged really well. I don’t see many about these days though, there was a lad just up the road from me who had a yellow one that always looked nice despite the questionable exhaust it was fitted with.
Thanks Court_SI think these have aged really well. I don’t see many about these days though, there was a lad just up the road from me who had a yellow one that always looked nice despite the questionable exhaust it was fitted with.
I agree too, they have aged very well indeed and despite Honda selling around 8000 units in the UK from 1999 until production end 2009 you hardly see them on the road.
Hi Guys,
Here’s another update on the s2000.
Enjoy
Task 50 - Engine & Gearbox Mount Replacement
29-04-2019
For quite a while it has been noticed that there is always a slight vibration upon low rev heavy load acceleration.
The vibration symptom often occurs under load, i.e when engine is on idle and the clutch is lifted to provide load.
A rattle type vibration is heard, of course most car engine's vibrate when the engine is loaded like this, but it definitely was not a normal sound and vibrations seemed to be felt quite perceptible in the cabin.
This did not affect the way the car drove so it was not really a priority to rectify. Some basic checks were performed to see if the mounts were confirmed bad.
These checks are:
-Inspect both front engine mounts.
These mounts are fluid filled, they can rip or tear causing an orange type fluid to leak out of them.
Once the mounts are in this state, vibration can occur.
-Use a crow bar and balance it on the top suspension turret mount and lower engine mount
This can check for any excess engine movement indicating a worn or damage mount
-Exhaust assembly checked for any loose components or hangers.
The vibration can also point towards worn rear drive axles. However this particular symptom only occurs at higher acceleration speeds. Therefore this can be ruled out.
If you are experiencing a symptom like this, the solution is to swap over the drive axles.
Link in the "resources used section" below for more info.
The engine mounts on an s2000 are notoriously quite week, and even after performing all the checks above proving that the mounts are fine I was convinced they were not. The car is now 20 years old so it would benefit from having new mounts.
Once black Friday approached (Nov 2018), it was my opportunity to purchase a set of OEM Honda mounts at a discounted price. An order was placed for a set of x2 front engine mounts and x2 rear gearbox mounts.
The existing rear gearbox mounts looked fine but it made sense to replace them all.
The supplier took an age to deliver them, almost 4 months.
However, once they arrived they looked the part.
After viewing several DIY videos on the installation, the procedure looked pretty straight forward.
The only thing is that my trolley jack just doesn't go high enough, living in a flat my choice of tools are quite limited.
The trolley jack I have is the low type Clarke 1.25 ton jack which is the light weight version. Purely so I can carry it back upstairs.
So with this dilemma, I had to call my mechanic friend to help out. The same guy who helped install the facelift s2000 suspension set.
A lovely warm spring day arrived, I took the day off and grabbed the opportunity to get them installed.
I booked him in and we both got to work. He has a nice heavy duty trolley jack which lifted the s2000 pretty high up.
The process was pretty straight forward with no issues or seized bolts.
The replacement OEM mounts fitted perfectly.
Once the installation was complete the vibration was eliminated, and made the car much more pleasurable to drive at low speeds under load.
It was also noticed that the gearshift did not vibrate as much, so replacing the gearbox mounts was also a great benefit too.
A fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Front Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50810-S2A-003
Supplier: Htune
Part: Gearbox Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50806-S2A-000
Supplier: Htune
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replace engine mounts on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75J4gXCpirc
Youtube Video
"Testing s2000 Engine Mounts"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6w4m6y3288
For info
s2ki Thread - "Vibration Upon Acceleration" (Swapping Drive Axles)
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 51 - Oil Service 2019
30-03-2019
It has almost been one year since the last oil service, so the second service was now due.
With only having driven approximately 3000 miles within this time, a basic oil and oil filter service was all that was needed.
The oil used this time round was Shell's Helix Ultra fully synthetic 5w40, and a genuine Honda s2000 filter was purchased.
Grabbed a bottle at a great price so I couldn't complain.
The previous oil used was "motul x-cess 5w40" which was also a great oil.
The next time I will try out Castrol's Edge 5w40 FST type oil.
There is alot of debate on what oil to use, check the s2ki FAQ threads.
For the oil grade, stick to Honda's recommendation or S2ki FAQ thread, or the oil grade that the car has been running on previously from its service history if it states it.
There is generally no bad or good brand of oil. The best advice is to change it regularly.
The oil change was straight forward, when finalizing and torqing up the new oil filter, a witness mark was placed on the oil filter and oil filter engine block plate. This is a clear easy indication to tell me if the oil filter starts loosening.
There have been reports of oil filters coming loose due to the high revving nature of the f20 engine.
This witness marking is a simple easy way to tell if the oil filter moves at all.
There are special clamps which can be purchased to lock the filters in place (pretty expensive for what it is), however after removing the old oil filter and with that being pretty secured, I felt that the clamp was not required. If a clamp is seen 2nd hand at a good price it will be purchased.
Whilst the service was underway, I also decided to remove and check all spark plugs.
Being the iridium type and only replaced last year, they had a mountain of life ahead of them.
All spark plugs were checked and none of them were loose prior to removal.
(There also had been reports of spark plugs coming loose, Honda has since revised the torque specs of the spark plug to combat this)
A quick wire brush showed that all spark plugs were in good condition and sparking well.
The PCV valve was also removed , checked and cleaned.
If shaken, you should be able to hear a rattle which confirms that the PCV valve is in good working order.
The rattle was present, a quick spray of brake cleaner and it was re-installed.
The map sensor was also removed, checked and clean.
Special CRC cleaning spray was used for this component. Brake cleaner will be too harsh and can possibly damage this device.
Everything looked good, with only 3000 miles it was hardly surprising but it was good to see everything in good functional order.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Shell Helix 5w40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Helix Ultra 5w40
Supplier: Opie OIls
Part: Genuine s2000 Honda OEM Oil Filter
Honda Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: CRC Sensor Spray
Part Number: 30498
Supplier: Ebay
Part: Brake Cleaner (normfest Mc1)
Part Number: NOR2897333500
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Potential Oil Filter Clamp (from tegiwa)
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-s2000-oil-fil...
Info on Spark Plugs coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/ev...
TSB from Honda: https://www.s2ki.com/public/library/TSB/A02-042/in...
Info on Oil Filters coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Info on PCV Valve
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/i-...
s2000 Oil/Oil Filter Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Correct oil for your s2000
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 52 - Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500
30-03-2019
The brakes on the s2000 are adequate to say the least and could do with some improvements.
At the moment, the brake setup is completely stock, although all brake callipers, brake discs and pads including the fluid were overhauled/replaced last year.
You could spend thousands on brake upgrades but a great upgrade is improving the brake pads.
Wanting abit more bite, I decided to go for a set of upgraded pads.
Having previously used Ferrodo's DS2500 type brake pad on my previously owned 1999 Honda Prelude 2.2 vti, I found them to have excellent bite when working hard and fantastic bite from cold. A great all rounder.
The only downfall was alot more brake dusting compared to OEM pads.
I managed to pick them up at a great price, again on black Friday (Nov 2018), but waited until now to get them fitted once the weather improved.
Brake pad change on the s2000 is super simple, with DIYguys YouTube video reminding me of the procedure.
The calliper and carrier setup is almost identical to my facelift 2006 Honda Accord ictdi.
Sliders were checked, cleaned and re-greased and all pad shims from the OEM brake pad were re-used on the ds2500 version to help stop any squealing.
Silicone grease used for the sliders and copper grease used for the rear of pads and shims.
Original OEM pads removed
DS2500 pads fitted
The results was a vast improvement over the stock OEM pads, and a highly recommended upgrade.
If additional funds allow, the brake lines would benefit from an upgrade to stainless items to further help in improving the brake feel. If even more funds allow, it would be nice to upgrade the brake discs to Stop-Tech grooved type.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pad Set
Part Number: FCP1444H
Supplier: JJC Race and Rally (via ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replacing Front Brake Pads on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHQ9Wy35CWg
Task 53 - Replace Missing Catalytic Heat Shield Bolt
30-03-2019
A metallic high pitched vibration was found during high speed acceleration, and it was confirmed during last month's MOT session.
The cause of the vibration is the catalytic converter heat shield has a missing fastening bolt.
A quick check on s2ki confirmed the hole size and recommended sized bolt to use to re-fasten the heat shield.
Once the size was confirmed, a quick check on for a suitable nut and bolt was sourced.
Parts Purchased:
Part: M6 Nut and Bolt (Stainless)
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283194357921
Part: M6 Shake Proof Washer
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221304059508
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Catalytic Converter Heat Shield Bolt Size"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 54 - Upgrade to AP2 Valve Retainers/Keepers on Intake
Upgrade Oil jet Bolts and Upgrade Brake Line to Stainless Type
04-05-2019
With the s2000 being an early model and one of the first ones manufactured, there were a number of TSB (technical service bulletins). I believe it only affected s2000's manufactured between 1999 and 2000. Later models already had the changes implemented within their build.
These service bulletins flagged a few issues with the s2000 F20 engine.
The bulletins were the rectification of the valve retainers on the intake side of the engine (Upgrade to AP2 type), and the upgrade of the oil jet bolts from twin port to quad port outlet for better cooling.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If mechanically over revved, valve retainers can crack.
(Mechanically over rev is where you drop down into the incorrect gear and you over rev) not to be confused by just revving out the engine and letting it bounce on the limiter)
Results: Cracked retainers and fall into the chamber and destroy the engine.
Solution: Install stronger AP2 type retainers/keepers for intake side only.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If car is run at high RPM's for long periods of time, overheating of the lower section of the engine can occur.
Results: Severe engine damage to bottom end.
Solution: Install revised 4 port oil jet bolt for better cooling.
Currently the engine runs smoothly with no issues what so ever. However, with the car being 20 years old and having had several previous owners there has always been a possibility that that the car may have been over revved at some point in its life. For peace of mind, it would make sense to get this work done.
Due to how the cracks appear, they tend to occur on the underside of the retainer so generally very difficult to see on a visual inspection when the rocker cover is off.
It is only recommended to upgrade the retainers of the intake side of the engine. Due to the heavier weight of the AP2 if the exhaust side is also upgraded this can cause valve float.
Rich at performance Autoworks explains "Valve Float" below and the issues surrounding the retainers on the early f20c engine.
“Valve Float occurs when the valve spring can no longer control the valve, which means the valve can still be open when it is off the cam lobe.
This can happen for various reasons such as
-On stock valve trains when over revved,
-If replacement heavier valves and retainers are used with stock valve springs (mostly at higher rpms)
-If high lift cams are installed without uprated valve springs.
The AP2 retainers are heavier than the AP1 items but the stock Intake valve springs can cope with this, the exhaust side springs are softer and with high rpms can allow the valve to float (with AP2 retainers).
As the exhaust side isn’t really an issue on the AP1 it makes sense to only do the intake retainer”
In hindsight, this should have been performed at my first visit to Performance Autoworks where they checked and adjusted all the clearances.
With the above in mind, I also decided to get the oil jet bolt upgrade performed too.
Upon reading many threads online, the oil jet bolt upgrade is not generally 100% required.
You would not expose the engine to a prolonged high rpm use on a normal road unless you did it deliberately.
Honda decided to release this TSB most likely to protect themselves, and for different countries as they would have different driving habits.
If you are running a turbo or super charger then it would be 100% required.
I wanted peace of mind, so this would be a great opportunity to get this work done at the same time as the retainer upgrade. It would also be an opportunity to have a peer around the bottom end of the engine for any noticeable issues.
Once these two jobs are complete, the original f20c flaw's should now be covered.
(with the exception of the infamous TCT "timing chain tensioner") It's still holding up pretty well.
From a visual inspection of it, it seems it is the original tensioner unit.
With the oil jet bolt upgrade, the oil sump would have to be removed so fresh oil would be needed.
Again, in hindsight I should have held back on the oil service last month.
Not to worry, I can now try out Castrol Edge FST 5w40 oil.
I decided that the retainer and oil jet bolt upgrade is to be performed by Performance Autoworks.
There would be no chance of me performing this type of work in an open car park.
Whilst the car is in, Performance Autoworks will also upgrade the brake lines. The original rubber brake lines have definitely seen better days so I thought instead of replacing them why not upgrade them to stainless versions. This would also match well with the Ferrodo DS2500 pad setup currently on the car.
The brake lines I have chosen are the Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit.
An order for the genuine Honda retainers and oil jet bolts were placed.
The Goodridge stainless brake lines were also ordered and arrived within a few days.
My brother also needed some maintenance work performing on his 1994 B16 powered Honda Civic coupe.
We dropped that one off first and then mine a week later.
Rich at Performance Autoworks reported no issues, and all jobs went well without a hitch.
He reported that the engine is very healthy, with no debris or any cause for concern after performing a full inspection with the oil sump removed. It was also noticed that the engine runs much more smoother, although it could be due to the Castrol edge oil being used or the fresh valve adjustment that was performed.
The original retainers and oil jet bolts were closely examined after they were removed.
It was confirmed that the oil jet bolts were the original 2 port design.
It was also confirmed that the original retainers had no signs of cracking or defects, and were in overall excellent condition. This was also confirmation that the engine had not had a mechanical over rev within its history.
Stainless Steel Lines
As always, Rich did a fantastic job.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (1 litre)
Part Number: React Brake Fluid
Supplier: Rich at Performance Autoworks Supplied this for me.
Part: Castrol Edge FST 5w/40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Edge 5w40
Supplier: Opie Oils
Part: Genuine Honda AP2 Retainer (x8) & Keeper Upgrade (x16)
Honda Part Number: 14765-PRB-A01 & 14781-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: Genuine Honda Oil Jet Bolt Upgrade
Part Number: 15290-PCX-000
Supplier: Htune
Part: Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit (in Black)
Part Number: SHD1010-4P
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Unit 13
Horcott Industrial Estate
Horcott Road
Fairford
Gloucestershire
GL7 4BX
Phone: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
http://www.performance-autoworks.co.uk/contact.php
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "AP2 Retainer Upgrade"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/how-criti...
s2ki Thread - "Oil Jet Bolt Info"
https://h-tune.co.uk/club/threads/oil-jet-bolt-rep...
Task 55 - Upgrade Front Roof Latches to Hardtop Version
12-05-2019
The existing front roof latches are the original for the soft top, and therefore they are pretty worn out.
Since the hardtop roof had been fitted, the roof has a tendency to rattle quite abit whilst driving over rough or bumpy roads. Honda offered the hard top version of the latch which is slightly thicker and provides a more tighter clamp thus eliminating the hardtop rattle.
Here are photos showing soft top latch vs the hard top latch
Many members just perform the washer mod, basically a couple of washers to lift the latch further away from the roof line to provide a tighter clamping force. The issue here is that it can cause some distortion due to the rigidity of the hard top roof. The soft top is quite flexible hence why you can get away with it for soft top use.
I preferred to do it properly as the hardtop roof would be semi permanent for now, or until a suitable storage solution can be found for the hardtop itself in the future.
A pair was ordered and they came within good time.
Installation was super easy. I recently installed the washer mod last year (Task 7) to help eliminate the soft top wind noise. DIY guys provided an excellent easy to follow guide in removing the trim to gain access to these latches.
Installation was a breeze and using the existing screws, reinstallation of all the trim was straight forward with no issues.
New strikers installed
All trim re-installed
Whilst performing this task, the hardtop roof seals were all re-greased using shin enstui silicon rubber grease to help reduce rubbing sounds and also keep all seals supple.
Once the latches were installed, the hardtop was clamped in place. There was a noticeable stiffer feeling in clamping giving that sense of greater strength in pulling down the hardtop roof. This was a positive feeling as it was looking very likely this would resolve my hardtop rattling issues.
Finally, no more rattling. There are some very minor noises, as it is a removable roof you will always get some noises due to the fact the roof is not a part of the car. However it is a night and day difference as the rattling noises were super annoying and would drive you mad on a long drive.
All trims were re-installed.
Very happy with a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Hard Top Front Roof Latches
Part Number: 86270-S2A-902 (x2 required)
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "s2000 soft top roof washer Mod"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 56 - Strip Down OEM Head unit and Reflow Connector Terminals
15-05-2019
On a random drive to work, it was noticed that the sound system had a slight issue.
The issue was with the left side speaker, the speaker would slightly crackle with a reduce volume on random occasions. On a previous task, the head unit was just removed and checked. However the issue was not experienced at the time and everything looked in good condition.
This time round, I thought it would be a good time to dive alittle further.
With the head unit so easy to remove, I brought it indoors to have a little diagnosis session.
The head unit came apart nicely, with every part of the assembly well thought out to aid ease of production.
It really was a nice unit to work on.
With the head unit fully stripped down, I could remove the main PCB from the chassis.
A visual inspection of the main input connector and CD changer terminals was performed, along with the terminals of the main power output MOSFET component. The solder fillets looked generally ok, although it would benefit from a reflow on the main connector.
I got out my Weller WSD81 soldering station and some flux, and got to work reflowing these 3 main areas.
After reflowing, all terminals looked good.
Re-assembly was a breeze and the head unit was re-installed back into the car without any issues.
Upon power up, everything worked fine with the issue not being present.
The situation will be monitored to see if it re-occurred but so far so good.
It may be worth checking out the CD changer at a later date to see if any issues are apparent on this assembly.
I know it is probably easier to just buy a modern head unit, but I just love the OEM originality.
With the car not being the daily, a modern head unit is not really required.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 57 - Revert Air Filter from K&N Back to OEM
19-05-2019
After a good amount of time using the K&N drop in filter, my conclusion is that it provides very little benefits.
With the original air box modified slightly in task 52 to provide alittle more sound without compromising on power, there was very little or none at all differences between the two filters.
The K&N filter does increase bhp by 1 or2 horse power, but has to sacrifice some filtration.
To be fair, 1 or 2 horse power would be very hard to feel, especially with there being so many factors and variations in driving conditions, air temperatures and state of the car.
There also has been reports of K&N filters damaging MAP sensors, although I am unable to confirm if this is true.
The only real benefit of having the K&N filter is that it is washable and re-usable. However seeing that the s2000 is not a daily and only used sparingly, the OEM paper filter would not need to be changed as often.
Even if the car was used as a daily, I would be quite concerned about letting in more debris everyday on your commute for the sake of negligible increase in response.
To this degree, I have decided that the original Honda OEM filter will be re-installed.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 58 – Novice Track Day Preparation
01-06-2019
Earlier in the year, me and brother decided that it was time to get the cars out on a track day.
Not wanting the track day to be too aggressive, we both decided to do a novice evening.
The track I have always wanted to do was Brands Hatch, together with the s2000 it would be a personal bucket list moment.
Together with this, my s2000 is 20 years old this year. What an event to celebrate its 20th birthday.
The track day was booked for the 5th June 2019.
All the tasks leading up to the track day help prepare the car, and cover all the basics to ensure the car stayed reliable on the day.
Final checks were done which included
-Torque on all Spark plugs
-All fluid checks
-Brake fluid moisture content check (less than 1%) – Pass
(using a Laser 4875 brake fluid tester)
-Engine visual inspection (no leaks or loose clips or connectors)
-All wheels removed, visual inspection performed
-All body works secured
-Exhaust items secured, no loose bolts
-Wheel bolts torqued up
-Tyre pressures checked
-Front tow hook check and fitted
-All tools/equipment and trolley jack loaded in boot
-Car cleaned
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 59 – Novice Track Day Evening @ Brand Hatch
05-06-2019
The day finally arrived.
With all the works performed on the s2000, it was ready for some fun.
In attendance was:
-Myself in my 1999 Honda s2000
-My brother in his B16a powered 1994 Honda Civic Coupe
-An old friend in his 2013 BMW M135i
-Another old friend tagging along as a passenger in my s2000.
Due to the nature of these events and the value of the s2000, I decided on getting track day insurance.
From sky insurance it was a reasonable £97 cover for the day.
Incidents on track day events are usually quite rare, but it is great peace of mind just in case anything were to happen.
Great website, purchase online and receive your certificate in minutes
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Absolutely epic day, fun was had by all and I did not want it to end.
Naturally we all felt slightly nervous at the beginning, but we all gained confidence in our cars as the evening went on.
The Honda s2000 performed flawlessly throughout all 4 sessions.
What a machine the s2000 is, Honda was on top of their game back in 1999 when they designed this car.
The chassis inspired confidence on every turn, coupled with its lovely gearbox, rev match on the down shift was a joy to execute when I could.
That f20 engine never missed a beat and revved flawlessly to 9k rpm every time I asked it too. What an engine, what a machine!
The s2000 stayed flat around the corners and flex of the whole car was barely noticeable. Just goes to show that x-bone frame was a master piece of design and engineering.
I was amazed at the capability of such a standard stock OEM car on road tyres (with the exception of slightly upgraded pads and stainless brake lines)
The brake performance was fantastic, no fade was felt and bite was excellent. It does goes to show all you need is good brake fluid (Castrol React Performance) and better than OEM pads (in this case ds2500 pads).
There were some lovely cars on track, most of which were alot faster than the s2000. Some were also alot slower consisting of a standard mini cooper and even a standard tdci Mondeo.
I think the closest competition I had was with a 2003 Porsche Boxster. His car seemed quite serious as it had a roll cage, but the s2000 kept up with it even around the corners despite the s2000 being stock.
The s2000 just felt at home on circuit, I am really glad I managed to take my s2000 on track as it was intended for.
I know track days aren’t for everyone. The pitfalls and expensive drama’s that can result in such event, but I would highly recommend it to anyone to fully feel the capability of the s2000.
Thanks to Matt Clay for taking the photos on the first session whilst we were queuing in the pit lane and out on track.
What an incredible day.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MSV Track Days
https://www.msvtrackdays.com/car
Track Day Insurance
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
Long Term To-Do
-Rectify lower arch rust issues
-Respray bonnet and boot lid due to paint surface defects
-Maybe colour code headlight washers and rear bumper lower lip section
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
09-06-19
Here’s another update on the s2000.
Enjoy
Task 50 - Engine & Gearbox Mount Replacement
29-04-2019
For quite a while it has been noticed that there is always a slight vibration upon low rev heavy load acceleration.
The vibration symptom often occurs under load, i.e when engine is on idle and the clutch is lifted to provide load.
A rattle type vibration is heard, of course most car engine's vibrate when the engine is loaded like this, but it definitely was not a normal sound and vibrations seemed to be felt quite perceptible in the cabin.
This did not affect the way the car drove so it was not really a priority to rectify. Some basic checks were performed to see if the mounts were confirmed bad.
These checks are:
-Inspect both front engine mounts.
These mounts are fluid filled, they can rip or tear causing an orange type fluid to leak out of them.
Once the mounts are in this state, vibration can occur.
-Use a crow bar and balance it on the top suspension turret mount and lower engine mount
This can check for any excess engine movement indicating a worn or damage mount
-Exhaust assembly checked for any loose components or hangers.
The vibration can also point towards worn rear drive axles. However this particular symptom only occurs at higher acceleration speeds. Therefore this can be ruled out.
If you are experiencing a symptom like this, the solution is to swap over the drive axles.
Link in the "resources used section" below for more info.
The engine mounts on an s2000 are notoriously quite week, and even after performing all the checks above proving that the mounts are fine I was convinced they were not. The car is now 20 years old so it would benefit from having new mounts.
Once black Friday approached (Nov 2018), it was my opportunity to purchase a set of OEM Honda mounts at a discounted price. An order was placed for a set of x2 front engine mounts and x2 rear gearbox mounts.
The existing rear gearbox mounts looked fine but it made sense to replace them all.
The supplier took an age to deliver them, almost 4 months.
However, once they arrived they looked the part.
After viewing several DIY videos on the installation, the procedure looked pretty straight forward.
The only thing is that my trolley jack just doesn't go high enough, living in a flat my choice of tools are quite limited.
The trolley jack I have is the low type Clarke 1.25 ton jack which is the light weight version. Purely so I can carry it back upstairs.
So with this dilemma, I had to call my mechanic friend to help out. The same guy who helped install the facelift s2000 suspension set.
A lovely warm spring day arrived, I took the day off and grabbed the opportunity to get them installed.
I booked him in and we both got to work. He has a nice heavy duty trolley jack which lifted the s2000 pretty high up.
The process was pretty straight forward with no issues or seized bolts.
The replacement OEM mounts fitted perfectly.
Once the installation was complete the vibration was eliminated, and made the car much more pleasurable to drive at low speeds under load.
It was also noticed that the gearshift did not vibrate as much, so replacing the gearbox mounts was also a great benefit too.
A fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Front Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50810-S2A-003
Supplier: Htune
Part: Gearbox Engine Mounts (x2 required for left and right side) (Part fits both sides)
Genuine Honda Part Number: 50806-S2A-000
Supplier: Htune
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replace engine mounts on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75J4gXCpirc
Youtube Video
"Testing s2000 Engine Mounts"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6w4m6y3288
For info
s2ki Thread - "Vibration Upon Acceleration" (Swapping Drive Axles)
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 51 - Oil Service 2019
30-03-2019
It has almost been one year since the last oil service, so the second service was now due.
With only having driven approximately 3000 miles within this time, a basic oil and oil filter service was all that was needed.
The oil used this time round was Shell's Helix Ultra fully synthetic 5w40, and a genuine Honda s2000 filter was purchased.
Grabbed a bottle at a great price so I couldn't complain.
The previous oil used was "motul x-cess 5w40" which was also a great oil.
The next time I will try out Castrol's Edge 5w40 FST type oil.
There is alot of debate on what oil to use, check the s2ki FAQ threads.
For the oil grade, stick to Honda's recommendation or S2ki FAQ thread, or the oil grade that the car has been running on previously from its service history if it states it.
There is generally no bad or good brand of oil. The best advice is to change it regularly.
The oil change was straight forward, when finalizing and torqing up the new oil filter, a witness mark was placed on the oil filter and oil filter engine block plate. This is a clear easy indication to tell me if the oil filter starts loosening.
There have been reports of oil filters coming loose due to the high revving nature of the f20 engine.
This witness marking is a simple easy way to tell if the oil filter moves at all.
There are special clamps which can be purchased to lock the filters in place (pretty expensive for what it is), however after removing the old oil filter and with that being pretty secured, I felt that the clamp was not required. If a clamp is seen 2nd hand at a good price it will be purchased.
Whilst the service was underway, I also decided to remove and check all spark plugs.
Being the iridium type and only replaced last year, they had a mountain of life ahead of them.
All spark plugs were checked and none of them were loose prior to removal.
(There also had been reports of spark plugs coming loose, Honda has since revised the torque specs of the spark plug to combat this)
A quick wire brush showed that all spark plugs were in good condition and sparking well.
The PCV valve was also removed , checked and cleaned.
If shaken, you should be able to hear a rattle which confirms that the PCV valve is in good working order.
The rattle was present, a quick spray of brake cleaner and it was re-installed.
The map sensor was also removed, checked and clean.
Special CRC cleaning spray was used for this component. Brake cleaner will be too harsh and can possibly damage this device.
Everything looked good, with only 3000 miles it was hardly surprising but it was good to see everything in good functional order.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Shell Helix 5w40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Helix Ultra 5w40
Supplier: Opie OIls
Part: Genuine s2000 Honda OEM Oil Filter
Honda Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: CRC Sensor Spray
Part Number: 30498
Supplier: Ebay
Part: Brake Cleaner (normfest Mc1)
Part Number: NOR2897333500
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Potential Oil Filter Clamp (from tegiwa)
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-s2000-oil-fil...
Info on Spark Plugs coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/ev...
TSB from Honda: https://www.s2ki.com/public/library/TSB/A02-042/in...
Info on Oil Filters coming loose
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Info on PCV Valve
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/i-...
s2000 Oil/Oil Filter Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Correct oil for your s2000
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 52 - Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500
30-03-2019
The brakes on the s2000 are adequate to say the least and could do with some improvements.
At the moment, the brake setup is completely stock, although all brake callipers, brake discs and pads including the fluid were overhauled/replaced last year.
You could spend thousands on brake upgrades but a great upgrade is improving the brake pads.
Wanting abit more bite, I decided to go for a set of upgraded pads.
Having previously used Ferrodo's DS2500 type brake pad on my previously owned 1999 Honda Prelude 2.2 vti, I found them to have excellent bite when working hard and fantastic bite from cold. A great all rounder.
The only downfall was alot more brake dusting compared to OEM pads.
I managed to pick them up at a great price, again on black Friday (Nov 2018), but waited until now to get them fitted once the weather improved.
Brake pad change on the s2000 is super simple, with DIYguys YouTube video reminding me of the procedure.
The calliper and carrier setup is almost identical to my facelift 2006 Honda Accord ictdi.
Sliders were checked, cleaned and re-greased and all pad shims from the OEM brake pad were re-used on the ds2500 version to help stop any squealing.
Silicone grease used for the sliders and copper grease used for the rear of pads and shims.
Original OEM pads removed
DS2500 pads fitted
The results was a vast improvement over the stock OEM pads, and a highly recommended upgrade.
If additional funds allow, the brake lines would benefit from an upgrade to stainless items to further help in improving the brake feel. If even more funds allow, it would be nice to upgrade the brake discs to Stop-Tech grooved type.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pad Set
Part Number: FCP1444H
Supplier: JJC Race and Rally (via ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY GUYS YouTube Video
"Replacing Front Brake Pads on s2000"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHQ9Wy35CWg
Task 53 - Replace Missing Catalytic Heat Shield Bolt
30-03-2019
A metallic high pitched vibration was found during high speed acceleration, and it was confirmed during last month's MOT session.
The cause of the vibration is the catalytic converter heat shield has a missing fastening bolt.
A quick check on s2ki confirmed the hole size and recommended sized bolt to use to re-fasten the heat shield.
Once the size was confirmed, a quick check on for a suitable nut and bolt was sourced.
Parts Purchased:
Part: M6 Nut and Bolt (Stainless)
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283194357921
Part: M6 Shake Proof Washer
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221304059508
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Catalytic Converter Heat Shield Bolt Size"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 54 - Upgrade to AP2 Valve Retainers/Keepers on Intake
Upgrade Oil jet Bolts and Upgrade Brake Line to Stainless Type
04-05-2019
With the s2000 being an early model and one of the first ones manufactured, there were a number of TSB (technical service bulletins). I believe it only affected s2000's manufactured between 1999 and 2000. Later models already had the changes implemented within their build.
These service bulletins flagged a few issues with the s2000 F20 engine.
The bulletins were the rectification of the valve retainers on the intake side of the engine (Upgrade to AP2 type), and the upgrade of the oil jet bolts from twin port to quad port outlet for better cooling.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If mechanically over revved, valve retainers can crack.
(Mechanically over rev is where you drop down into the incorrect gear and you over rev) not to be confused by just revving out the engine and letting it bounce on the limiter)
Results: Cracked retainers and fall into the chamber and destroy the engine.
Solution: Install stronger AP2 type retainers/keepers for intake side only.
Service Bulletin number:
Cause and Symptom: If car is run at high RPM's for long periods of time, overheating of the lower section of the engine can occur.
Results: Severe engine damage to bottom end.
Solution: Install revised 4 port oil jet bolt for better cooling.
Currently the engine runs smoothly with no issues what so ever. However, with the car being 20 years old and having had several previous owners there has always been a possibility that that the car may have been over revved at some point in its life. For peace of mind, it would make sense to get this work done.
Due to how the cracks appear, they tend to occur on the underside of the retainer so generally very difficult to see on a visual inspection when the rocker cover is off.
It is only recommended to upgrade the retainers of the intake side of the engine. Due to the heavier weight of the AP2 if the exhaust side is also upgraded this can cause valve float.
Rich at performance Autoworks explains "Valve Float" below and the issues surrounding the retainers on the early f20c engine.
“Valve Float occurs when the valve spring can no longer control the valve, which means the valve can still be open when it is off the cam lobe.
This can happen for various reasons such as
-On stock valve trains when over revved,
-If replacement heavier valves and retainers are used with stock valve springs (mostly at higher rpms)
-If high lift cams are installed without uprated valve springs.
The AP2 retainers are heavier than the AP1 items but the stock Intake valve springs can cope with this, the exhaust side springs are softer and with high rpms can allow the valve to float (with AP2 retainers).
As the exhaust side isn’t really an issue on the AP1 it makes sense to only do the intake retainer”
In hindsight, this should have been performed at my first visit to Performance Autoworks where they checked and adjusted all the clearances.
With the above in mind, I also decided to get the oil jet bolt upgrade performed too.
Upon reading many threads online, the oil jet bolt upgrade is not generally 100% required.
You would not expose the engine to a prolonged high rpm use on a normal road unless you did it deliberately.
Honda decided to release this TSB most likely to protect themselves, and for different countries as they would have different driving habits.
If you are running a turbo or super charger then it would be 100% required.
I wanted peace of mind, so this would be a great opportunity to get this work done at the same time as the retainer upgrade. It would also be an opportunity to have a peer around the bottom end of the engine for any noticeable issues.
Once these two jobs are complete, the original f20c flaw's should now be covered.
(with the exception of the infamous TCT "timing chain tensioner") It's still holding up pretty well.
From a visual inspection of it, it seems it is the original tensioner unit.
With the oil jet bolt upgrade, the oil sump would have to be removed so fresh oil would be needed.
Again, in hindsight I should have held back on the oil service last month.
Not to worry, I can now try out Castrol Edge FST 5w40 oil.
I decided that the retainer and oil jet bolt upgrade is to be performed by Performance Autoworks.
There would be no chance of me performing this type of work in an open car park.
Whilst the car is in, Performance Autoworks will also upgrade the brake lines. The original rubber brake lines have definitely seen better days so I thought instead of replacing them why not upgrade them to stainless versions. This would also match well with the Ferrodo DS2500 pad setup currently on the car.
The brake lines I have chosen are the Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit.
An order for the genuine Honda retainers and oil jet bolts were placed.
The Goodridge stainless brake lines were also ordered and arrived within a few days.
My brother also needed some maintenance work performing on his 1994 B16 powered Honda Civic coupe.
We dropped that one off first and then mine a week later.
Rich at Performance Autoworks reported no issues, and all jobs went well without a hitch.
He reported that the engine is very healthy, with no debris or any cause for concern after performing a full inspection with the oil sump removed. It was also noticed that the engine runs much more smoother, although it could be due to the Castrol edge oil being used or the fresh valve adjustment that was performed.
The original retainers and oil jet bolts were closely examined after they were removed.
It was confirmed that the oil jet bolts were the original 2 port design.
It was also confirmed that the original retainers had no signs of cracking or defects, and were in overall excellent condition. This was also confirmation that the engine had not had a mechanical over rev within its history.
Stainless Steel Lines
As always, Rich did a fantastic job.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (1 litre)
Part Number: React Brake Fluid
Supplier: Rich at Performance Autoworks Supplied this for me.
Part: Castrol Edge FST 5w/40 Fully Synthetic Oil (5 litres)
Part Number: Edge 5w40
Supplier: Opie Oils
Part: Genuine Honda AP2 Retainer (x8) & Keeper Upgrade (x16)
Honda Part Number: 14765-PRB-A01 & 14781-PCX-004
Supplier: Htune
Part: Genuine Honda Oil Jet Bolt Upgrade
Part Number: 15290-PCX-000
Supplier: Htune
Part: Goodridge Stainless Brake Line Kit (in Black)
Part Number: SHD1010-4P
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Unit 13
Horcott Industrial Estate
Horcott Road
Fairford
Gloucestershire
GL7 4BX
Phone: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
http://www.performance-autoworks.co.uk/contact.php
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "AP2 Retainer Upgrade"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/how-criti...
s2ki Thread - "Oil Jet Bolt Info"
https://h-tune.co.uk/club/threads/oil-jet-bolt-rep...
Task 55 - Upgrade Front Roof Latches to Hardtop Version
12-05-2019
The existing front roof latches are the original for the soft top, and therefore they are pretty worn out.
Since the hardtop roof had been fitted, the roof has a tendency to rattle quite abit whilst driving over rough or bumpy roads. Honda offered the hard top version of the latch which is slightly thicker and provides a more tighter clamp thus eliminating the hardtop rattle.
Here are photos showing soft top latch vs the hard top latch
Many members just perform the washer mod, basically a couple of washers to lift the latch further away from the roof line to provide a tighter clamping force. The issue here is that it can cause some distortion due to the rigidity of the hard top roof. The soft top is quite flexible hence why you can get away with it for soft top use.
I preferred to do it properly as the hardtop roof would be semi permanent for now, or until a suitable storage solution can be found for the hardtop itself in the future.
A pair was ordered and they came within good time.
Installation was super easy. I recently installed the washer mod last year (Task 7) to help eliminate the soft top wind noise. DIY guys provided an excellent easy to follow guide in removing the trim to gain access to these latches.
Installation was a breeze and using the existing screws, reinstallation of all the trim was straight forward with no issues.
New strikers installed
All trim re-installed
Whilst performing this task, the hardtop roof seals were all re-greased using shin enstui silicon rubber grease to help reduce rubbing sounds and also keep all seals supple.
Once the latches were installed, the hardtop was clamped in place. There was a noticeable stiffer feeling in clamping giving that sense of greater strength in pulling down the hardtop roof. This was a positive feeling as it was looking very likely this would resolve my hardtop rattling issues.
Finally, no more rattling. There are some very minor noises, as it is a removable roof you will always get some noises due to the fact the roof is not a part of the car. However it is a night and day difference as the rattling noises were super annoying and would drive you mad on a long drive.
All trims were re-installed.
Very happy with a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Hard Top Front Roof Latches
Part Number: 86270-S2A-902 (x2 required)
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "s2000 soft top roof washer Mod"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 56 - Strip Down OEM Head unit and Reflow Connector Terminals
15-05-2019
On a random drive to work, it was noticed that the sound system had a slight issue.
The issue was with the left side speaker, the speaker would slightly crackle with a reduce volume on random occasions. On a previous task, the head unit was just removed and checked. However the issue was not experienced at the time and everything looked in good condition.
This time round, I thought it would be a good time to dive alittle further.
With the head unit so easy to remove, I brought it indoors to have a little diagnosis session.
The head unit came apart nicely, with every part of the assembly well thought out to aid ease of production.
It really was a nice unit to work on.
With the head unit fully stripped down, I could remove the main PCB from the chassis.
A visual inspection of the main input connector and CD changer terminals was performed, along with the terminals of the main power output MOSFET component. The solder fillets looked generally ok, although it would benefit from a reflow on the main connector.
I got out my Weller WSD81 soldering station and some flux, and got to work reflowing these 3 main areas.
After reflowing, all terminals looked good.
Re-assembly was a breeze and the head unit was re-installed back into the car without any issues.
Upon power up, everything worked fine with the issue not being present.
The situation will be monitored to see if it re-occurred but so far so good.
It may be worth checking out the CD changer at a later date to see if any issues are apparent on this assembly.
I know it is probably easier to just buy a modern head unit, but I just love the OEM originality.
With the car not being the daily, a modern head unit is not really required.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 57 - Revert Air Filter from K&N Back to OEM
19-05-2019
After a good amount of time using the K&N drop in filter, my conclusion is that it provides very little benefits.
With the original air box modified slightly in task 52 to provide alittle more sound without compromising on power, there was very little or none at all differences between the two filters.
The K&N filter does increase bhp by 1 or2 horse power, but has to sacrifice some filtration.
To be fair, 1 or 2 horse power would be very hard to feel, especially with there being so many factors and variations in driving conditions, air temperatures and state of the car.
There also has been reports of K&N filters damaging MAP sensors, although I am unable to confirm if this is true.
The only real benefit of having the K&N filter is that it is washable and re-usable. However seeing that the s2000 is not a daily and only used sparingly, the OEM paper filter would not need to be changed as often.
Even if the car was used as a daily, I would be quite concerned about letting in more debris everyday on your commute for the sake of negligible increase in response.
To this degree, I have decided that the original Honda OEM filter will be re-installed.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 58 – Novice Track Day Preparation
01-06-2019
Earlier in the year, me and brother decided that it was time to get the cars out on a track day.
Not wanting the track day to be too aggressive, we both decided to do a novice evening.
The track I have always wanted to do was Brands Hatch, together with the s2000 it would be a personal bucket list moment.
Together with this, my s2000 is 20 years old this year. What an event to celebrate its 20th birthday.
The track day was booked for the 5th June 2019.
All the tasks leading up to the track day help prepare the car, and cover all the basics to ensure the car stayed reliable on the day.
Final checks were done which included
-Torque on all Spark plugs
-All fluid checks
-Brake fluid moisture content check (less than 1%) – Pass
(using a Laser 4875 brake fluid tester)
-Engine visual inspection (no leaks or loose clips or connectors)
-All wheels removed, visual inspection performed
-All body works secured
-Exhaust items secured, no loose bolts
-Wheel bolts torqued up
-Tyre pressures checked
-Front tow hook check and fitted
-All tools/equipment and trolley jack loaded in boot
-Car cleaned
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 59 – Novice Track Day Evening @ Brand Hatch
05-06-2019
The day finally arrived.
With all the works performed on the s2000, it was ready for some fun.
In attendance was:
-Myself in my 1999 Honda s2000
-My brother in his B16a powered 1994 Honda Civic Coupe
-An old friend in his 2013 BMW M135i
-Another old friend tagging along as a passenger in my s2000.
Due to the nature of these events and the value of the s2000, I decided on getting track day insurance.
From sky insurance it was a reasonable £97 cover for the day.
Incidents on track day events are usually quite rare, but it is great peace of mind just in case anything were to happen.
Great website, purchase online and receive your certificate in minutes
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Absolutely epic day, fun was had by all and I did not want it to end.
Naturally we all felt slightly nervous at the beginning, but we all gained confidence in our cars as the evening went on.
The Honda s2000 performed flawlessly throughout all 4 sessions.
What a machine the s2000 is, Honda was on top of their game back in 1999 when they designed this car.
The chassis inspired confidence on every turn, coupled with its lovely gearbox, rev match on the down shift was a joy to execute when I could.
That f20 engine never missed a beat and revved flawlessly to 9k rpm every time I asked it too. What an engine, what a machine!
The s2000 stayed flat around the corners and flex of the whole car was barely noticeable. Just goes to show that x-bone frame was a master piece of design and engineering.
I was amazed at the capability of such a standard stock OEM car on road tyres (with the exception of slightly upgraded pads and stainless brake lines)
The brake performance was fantastic, no fade was felt and bite was excellent. It does goes to show all you need is good brake fluid (Castrol React Performance) and better than OEM pads (in this case ds2500 pads).
There were some lovely cars on track, most of which were alot faster than the s2000. Some were also alot slower consisting of a standard mini cooper and even a standard tdci Mondeo.
I think the closest competition I had was with a 2003 Porsche Boxster. His car seemed quite serious as it had a roll cage, but the s2000 kept up with it even around the corners despite the s2000 being stock.
The s2000 just felt at home on circuit, I am really glad I managed to take my s2000 on track as it was intended for.
I know track days aren’t for everyone. The pitfalls and expensive drama’s that can result in such event, but I would highly recommend it to anyone to fully feel the capability of the s2000.
Thanks to Matt Clay for taking the photos on the first session whilst we were queuing in the pit lane and out on track.
What an incredible day.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MSV Track Days
https://www.msvtrackdays.com/car
Track Day Insurance
https://www.skyinsurance.co.uk/track-day-insurance...
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
Long Term To-Do
-Rectify lower arch rust issues
-Respray bonnet and boot lid due to paint surface defects
-Maybe colour code headlight washers and rear bumper lower lip section
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
09-06-19
Olivera said:
Good job OP.
It just goes to show just how much maintenance a ~20 year old car needs, even a Honda, to keep it in good condition.
Thanks Olivera, they do indeed. It seems car's that dont get used often tend to really need alot of maintenance.It just goes to show just how much maintenance a ~20 year old car needs, even a Honda, to keep it in good condition.
helix402 said:
A great write up and lovely attention to detail.
Thanks helix402TotalControl said:
Awesome write up. Really enjoyed reading that.
Thanks totalcontrol, glad you enjoyed it CABC said:
looks like a really good base car op.
S2000 looks like a contender for the over engineered thread. certainly well engineered.
Thanks CABC, it certainly needed abit of attention from the start. I think by doing the work I really got to know how the car is put together.S2000 looks like a contender for the over engineered thread. certainly well engineered.
They certainly wouldn't make a car like this ever again.
Kewy said:
I don't even own an S2K (a good mate of mine does though), but I've just read this entire thread.
Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Thanks for your kind words Kewy. Really glad you enjoyed reading it. Props to you! I admire the attention to detail. Fancy looking after my CL7 for 6 months? Hehe.
I all seriousness though, have you maintained your daily in a similar vein? Its an '06 Accord isn't it?
Would be really interested in similar jobs done to keep that in good nick, as they'd probably apply to my car too.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with the S!
Yeah I have a 7th Gen Accord I-CTDI diesel Accord EX as the daily, I do love the CL7 and would have bought it if I didn't need the range of the i-ctdi diesel.
As a matter of fact I was pretty in-depth with the Accord when I bought it back in 2014, I did pretty much the same as i did to the s2000 to bring it back to a high standard. I bought the Accord pretty cheap back then and it was a punt but it has paid off. It was in a pretty poor condition.
Since doing all the work on the Accord, I haven't really done much to it since 2016 now, as I am very happy with its standard, everything just works and its now at 205k miles and still running and driving beautifully.
Its just a matter of keeping it maintained to a high standard with 6000 mile oil changes/ EGR cleans and other fluid cheanges with the mileage I do.
Heres my thread on "type Accord" if your interested.
I might port it over to Piston Heads one day.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/17195-my-honda...
Kewy said:
I've just read the entirety of your Accord thread.
How much to book you and your knowledge for a weekend?! Haha. So many jobs added to the to-do list, not that I have the tools or expertise for a lot of them.
Haha, thats magic How much to book you and your knowledge for a weekend?! Haha. So many jobs added to the to-do list, not that I have the tools or expertise for a lot of them.
Really glad you enjoyed reading that too.I think most of that thread and the knowledge, was due to the helpful members of the forum and another forum called Honda Karma.
They both were dedicated Accord forums and really helped me with everything there was to know about the Accord.
I didnt mod the Accord but added a few handy features. I think the reverse camera was my top addition followed by the auto boot open.
I also have a thread for my once owned Honda Prelude 1999 2.2 vti if your interested. lol
Might have to also port that over to Piston Heads one day.
Kewy said:
Ah yeah I'm part of the Karma bunch on FB but don't bother with any other forums than this one to be honest. I should probably get involved but I remember when I checked in before the updates were quite sparse!
Yeh some great work done on the Accord mate, props! I've added a few of those jobs to my project list, the Shin Etsu grease is on my shopping list along with some CRC spray! Also need to check my aux belt routing, not sure if it would still apply to my K20 but would like to re-route it if I can. I've already replaced the alternator once.
I've booked marked all the guides and would love to do the boot opening mod but it doesn't look like a straight forward job haha. Do you know how fast the boot flings open if you just add the springs without the gas struts?
Yeh fire away with the Prelude thread, I could read in-depth car blogs like that all day long
Thanks Kewy,Yeh some great work done on the Accord mate, props! I've added a few of those jobs to my project list, the Shin Etsu grease is on my shopping list along with some CRC spray! Also need to check my aux belt routing, not sure if it would still apply to my K20 but would like to re-route it if I can. I've already replaced the alternator once.
I've booked marked all the guides and would love to do the boot opening mod but it doesn't look like a straight forward job haha. Do you know how fast the boot flings open if you just add the springs without the gas struts?
Yeh fire away with the Prelude thread, I could read in-depth car blogs like that all day long
I have pm'd (emailed) you
Hi Guys,
Another little update on the s2000.
Hope you enjoy reading.
13-11-19
Task 58 - Front Seat Removal and Carpet Scrub
22-06-2019
An opportunity came to really do a deep clean of the interior, I decided that it would be great to try and remove the seats so I can vacuum and scrub the entire carpet area and see what lurks beneath.
Especially with the water ingress issue I had earlier last year. It would be an opportunity to freshen and clean the carpets and check for any water damage.
A warm sunny weekend I decided to get cracking.
I first checked the seat bolts and they all looked in good condition with no evidence of it having been removed before. The bolts were pretty tight and came loose with a bit of effort. These bolts can occasionally rust as the bolts go directly through the chassis floor. A couple of the bolts did show some signs of rust but they will be brushed cleaned and copper grease when re-installed.
The seats were alittle tricky to remove. I can't remove the hardtop being on my own and the doors don't open as wide as a normal car, so I had to manoeuvre the seat carefully out. The easiest way was to angle the seat sideways inwards toward the interior of the car and lift the base out of the car first being careful not to scratch the door card in the process.
They came out relatively easily without too much effort.
Once out, the carpets were surprisingly in ok condition.
The vacuuming began, followed by a good scrubbing with autoglym interior shampoo.
The carpets came out much fresher with the red colour becoming alittle more deeper.
If I had a garage, it would be ideal to actually shampoo the carpets for much fresher clean, however being in a car park with limited time available this was the best I could do.
Thankfully there was no water damage and everything all seemed in good condition.
Once complete, the seats were given a good detailed clean using a brush and some soapy water. The brush was used to clean the crevices of the seats and the seat belt locks.
Once complete, both seats were re-installed with all areas of the cabin cleaned to a good standard.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Autoglym Interior Shampoo
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 59 - Wales Road Trip
13-07-2019
An opportunity arose for a one day road trip with a few friends from work to head to Wales.
Wales has some of the best driving roads in the UK.
A well known road in Wales is the A4069 Black Mountain Pass (also known as Top gear Road).
Top gear uses this road regularly to review their cars, and it is very popular with motorcyclists.
A truly incredible drive, we also drove on various other roads including the B4560, A470, A4059, A4067 and my favourite A4069.
The s2000 was such a joy to drive on all the roads, I could have driven on their roads all day.
My friends Vx220 performed fantastic and was really at home on the roads in Wales.
What an amazing day, epic roads and epic scenery. Shame it was only a day due to everyone's busy schedules.
We definitely needed a weekend of it, with perhaps exploring the northern parts for Wales too.
Highly recommended if you ever get a chance to visit Wales.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Top Gear Road - Wales Road Trip Article
https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/road...
Task 60 - Paint Refresh Brake Disc Hub Edges and Callipers
24-08-2019
After approximately a year and half of having the brakes overhauled, they started to look abit tired in terms of aesthetics. Being genuine standard Honda discs, they lack the corrosion protection on the hub and disc edges that the aftermarket discs like Stop-tech offer.
A quick coat of hammerite smooth black was painted on the disc edges and hub section, including a quick coat of silver for the calliper itself.
Overall a quick refresh which have improved and smarten up the overall visual appearance.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Smooth Hammerite Smooth Black Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Halfords
Part: Smooth Hammerite Silver Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 61 - Fabricate a Cup Holder (Pre-Facelift Only)
28-08-2019
One of the s2000's cabin issues is the lack of a decent cup holder, granted the s2000 wasn't designed for grand touring or very long distance drives but it would be handy to have a cup holder at arm's length for those road trips or spirited drives.
The existing cup holder in the s2000 is very poorly designed, when a bottle is placed there it just gets in the way when shifting gears and it is pretty much hopeless. Most s2000 owners just use this cup holder for loose change, receipts or keys.
Bob modifry designs some useful add on's for the s2000, and he has fabricated a bracket for a cup holder to be mounted on the passenger side. However he has only made this bracket for a certain variant of the s2000 and not suitable for any UK s2000.
There are many threads on s2ki for ideas and solutions for a cup holder, but nothing really stood out for me.
I did like the idea of modifry's version, so I tried looking into seeing if there was a bracket that is available which could be modified perhaps.
After stumbling across a phone bracket manufactured by a well known company called Brodit, their bracket was designed to grab hold and clip to the side tunnel of the centre console. Unfortunately this bracket clips to the driver's side.
What I wanted is for it to clip on to the passenger side.
However, what I had noticed is that the width distance on both sides in relation to the centre plastic console is different.
Amazon had the bracket on a lighting flash deal, so I took a punt and purchased it to see if it could be modified.
Firstly I cut it and attempted to extend it using its own top plate mount so it wraps around on the passenger side, this gap section was wider than the driver side.
I quickly mocked it up in the car and marked where holes were to be drilled on the bracket itself.
Amazingly it all worked out ok, and when fully finished it securely clipped in place really well and was very sturdy.
Four M3 machine screws of suitable length and some nyloc nuts and M3 washers were used to extend the bracket with its top plate.
Any fold out cup holder can be chosen, but I decided to splash alittle and purchase Bob Modifry's cup holder.
Alittle pricey as you may agree with shipping to the UK, but what an amazing cup holder.
Superbly made and the folding mechanism is awesome.
Using it's panvision interface connection plate, the cup holder can be clipped and unclipped when not in used.
With exception to the Brodit modified bracket itself. No other modifications were performed to the interior, so it all can be removed without a trace.
An easy four bolt attachment to the cup holder itself, holes were drilled on the side of the Brodit modified bracket.
Cup holder and its interface was attached and all was complete.
You could say it is pretty overkill for a cup holder, it does compromise the passenger so it would only work on solo drives, of if the passenger didn't mind reduced side leg space. However, it works really well and provides a suitable placement for a drink at arm's length without affecting the drivability of the car. Completely removable and can be stored away when not in use too.
Quick Youtube Vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aykUtP4rsg4
A fantastic result.
It proved to be super handy on our road trip later on.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Brodit Bracket for s2000
Part Number: Brodit Part 832902
Supplier: Amazon
(also available on ebay too)
Part: Cup Holder from Modifry
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Bob Modifry
Web Link: https://modifry.com/index.php?route=product/produc...
Part: Smooth Panvision Interface Plate for Cup holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Bob Modifry
Web Link: https://modifry.com/index.php?route=product/produc...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Modifry Website
https://modifry/com
Task 62 - s2000 Shifter Bushes Rebuild
07-09-2019
An opportunity arose due to a flash 10% discount day over one weekend over the summer holidays at Tegiwa, so I decided to grab the components for the s2000 shifter rebuild.
This has been on the to-do list for quite some time so I was glad the time came to get it done.
The s2000 shifter consists of a couple of plastic bushes and a spring, overtime the grease lubricating these components can dry out causing difficulty in shifting the gears or a just a lack of smoothness.
With my s2000 being 20 years old, it still shifted well but in my mind it would definitely benefit from an overhaul.
In hindsight, the shifter bushes were in pretty good condition, and I could have gotten away with just a good clean and regrease. However the new genuine OEM Honda parts didn't cost very much, so it was worth replacing whilst everything was out.
This task has been recommended to all s2000 owners to perform, purely because the difference should be night and day, the components are cheap and the job is pretty easy to do. Even if it just a regrease.
The process was pretty simple and the only difficulty I came across was removing the larger top bush from the shifter. This was quite tricky to remove without scratching the nicely machine metal ball shifter surface.
I carefully cut away the side prongs of the bush and eventually with enough force I was able to pop it off.
If you did scratch the machined surface of the shifter (where the bush sits around) then it would be a good idea to sand down the scratches to eliminate any raised imperfections. This will affect smoothness and would accelerate any wear to the plastic bush.
The recommended grease to use is "Honda Urea High Temp" grease, not cheap but very good stuff.
Thanks to my brother for lending me the tub having some left over from his drive shaft replacement install.
Naturally you can use any grease you want or are comfortable with.
Things to note
-There is a specific orientation for install on the larger plastic bush.
(Don't get this wrong as it would be nightmare to remove this bush if you did)
(Take pictures as you remove it for the first time if you feel you need a reference)
-Coat with as much grease as possible.
-Ensure all old grease is cleaned up prior to re-installation
-There are plenty videos on YouTube which details the procedure
-Clean the gearbox section well.
-Check to see if the outer insulation seal is present, from the gearbox to the upper chassis.
-Take your time and do not rush it, it is a simple job but you can easily make a mistake
-Have plenty of rags as it can be pretty messy with the old grease
-Take care not to get grease on your interior sections
I have to say though, after the installation was complete, engine started and gearbox warmed the shifting feel dramatically improved.
Amazing feeling when shifting gears now, and I thought it was good prior to the overhaul.
Highly recommended.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Top Shifter Bush (Large)
Part Number: 54110-S2A-003
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Genuine Honda Lower Shifter Pivot Bush (Small)
Part Number: 54111-S2A-003
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Genuine Honda Shifter Spring
Part Number: 54117-S2A-003
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Genuine Honda "Super High temp Urea Grease"
Part Number: 087989002
Supplier: Left Over from brother
(Tegiwa or Coxmotorparts should have these in stock for immediate dispatch)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
YouTube Video
"s2000 Shifter Overhaul and Rebuild"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9DY_vidZaQ
Task 63 - Nurburgring Road Trip
14-09-2019
For as long as I can remember it had always been one of my bucket list to visit Germany, and drive its famous Nurburgring race track with the car I had always wanted "A Honda s2000"
Over the years, I always worried about risks surrounding a trip to the Nurburgring, the amount of car crash videos on Youtube pretty much sums up the place. Despite this, I was determined to give the trip a go.
It would also be the ideal time to go now before all this Brexit malarkey.
With the s2000 to hand and in pretty good shape, I floated the idea to a couple of work colleagues, family members and friends. Most of them were unavailable with the exception of a work colleague who was well up for it.
With that confirmed, my colleague booked the hotel and ferry crossing and that was it, we were definitely going.
I prepped and checked the s2000 and covered all basics, and also gave it another oil and filter change.
It was now ready to go.
The trip there was fabulous with the s2000, soaking up the motorway miles really nicely.
On the ferry
That fabricated cup holder became amazingly useful
The hardtop definitely helped keep the motorway noise down and comfort levels up, the s2000 ran smooth and cruised nicely at 70 to 80 mph. It wasn't really ideal to go any faster than this, due to the short gear ratios of the s2000 even despite it having a 6th gear.
A cruising speed of 70mph has an rpm of approx 4k, any faster and the fuel consumption will definitely be noticeable. It was also a shame that the UK s2000's never got cruise control compared the American models, it would have helped greatly on the long motorway stretches.
We travelled along the A16 out of France, then on the E40 past Brussels and Gent with a fuel stop at a Shell petrol station in the Netherlands.
Once fuelled, we decided to take a detour though the Eifel national park.
Amazing roads and scenery through the mountain passes. Highly recommended, although it did add an additional 90 minutes to the overall journey. It was worth it though.
At the Hotel
The next day we filled up with 102 RON fuel : ) and headed to the Nurburgring. In the morning there were so many modified /performance cars driving past our hotel. It was awesome to watch.
Once at the ring, it was like a gigantic car show, so many awesome performance and highly tuned and even rare cars.
You literally could just watch the cars all day.
BMW was definitely the weapon choice for the track (naturally being in Germany) with many choosing the Renault Megane RS.
There were a wide variety cars, and some which you don't seem very often on UK roads anymore.
I managed 4 laps of the track in which were priced at 30 euro's (£26.73 including non sterling credit card fee) per lap. (as of the 15th Sept 2019) The laps are cheaper on weekdays.
They give you a credit /debit style type card and you state how many laps you wish. The credit is then loaded to the card and that is it. You can simply return and add more laps anytime of the day.
You can now drive up to the gate, contactless style tap on the sensor and the barrier will open. Then away you go. It is that easy. Once the lap comes to an end, you can filter off the track or continue on and enter another barrier tap your card again and then continue with your next lap.
Photo Captures of us on track
I believe it is forbidden for any lap timing to occur, however people do it regardless.
It was just an experience for me and unlike a UK track day the risks are much greater out here.
No UK insurance company will cover you on the track for a reasonable price (I checked and I couldn't find any).
I remember seeing someone get Morris insurance which covered them for approx £500.
You also have to be aware of the costs that will be billed to you if you spill oil, damage any barriers, or get involved in any collision or accident.
Having said the above, drive sensibly and always be aware of your surroundings and the faster cars behind you.
Always keep to the right (as the Nurburgring is classed as a public road) and only over take on the left.
Indicate right if you want faster cars to pass you. Always look out for yellow flashing lights and yellow flags and slow down with your hazard lights which indicates an accident or incident up ahead.
Granted you can't control the behaviour of other road users, but If you keep to the basic rules, you should be able to avoid any drama's.
Despite the above, is it an amazing event and there is no other place quite like it. The buzz and the collection of cars presented on the day were epic. Right down to standard cars, highly tuned performance and super cars.
Car enthusiasts all over Europe and even across the globe flock here, and it was lovely to talk to a few of them about their builds.
Things to note:
-We stayed in Adenau, plenty of places to eat and generally really pleasant.
(we booked through booking.com and was very easy)
-Your car needs to be road legal and have a valid MOT to enter the track
(although no official checks are actually done before entering the track)
-Make sure your car is healthy for the trip
-Always worth doing an oil and filter change for the long trip
-There was no trouble in finding high octane fuel in Germany. All fuel stations offer it.
(with some offering 102 ron)
-On weekend tourist days, it can get very busy at the ring.
-They recommend to go on track on the weekdays (they open daily from 5-7pm)
(However you don't get the atmosphere and buzz on the weekend but if it just
track time you want then it is ideal as it is generally quieter)
-A helmet is not required, but always recommended. Safety First.
-There were no noise limits
-You car is not checked by any officials prior going on track (So it is imperative your car is in good health before entering the ring) Any doubts do not go out on track.
-Enjoy the experience and don't constantly worry about the risks.
-Make sure you bring tools and a trolley jack for any maintenance
-Make sure you have break down cover for the trip. Anything can happen with cars.
(I went with RAC and it was a reasonable £45 for the 3 day trip)
Things to note (s2000 related)
-If you have a year 1999-2000 model s2000, ensure the oil jet bolt upgrade has been completed.
(as you will be keeping the revs high for longer than normal periods)
-Ensure you have good quality tyres and check your tyre pressures before going out on track.
-Check your spark plug torque before the trip and before the trip home
-Always always monitor the oil levels and bring at least 4 litres of oil with you.
(although some s2000's will burn more oil than others)
-Generally it is fine to go on track without a baffled oil sump providing your car is stock and has road tyres.
(You shouldn't be able to generate enough G forces to cause oil starvation especially in a longitudinal mounted engine like the F20c)
(If you have track tyres like AD08R's and modified suspension then it may be worth getting a baffled sump)
-Bring a spare TCT (timing chain tensioner)with you just in case (Unless yours is upgraded)
(You can buy one and return it if it is not used)
If it does go, they are an easy 20mins to change over and will get you home without any catastrophic failures.
-Don't forget to check your towing hook and install it before going out on the ring (I did forget to put mine on)
-Don't forget to check and inflate the spare wheel before the trip
I waited a long time for the opportunity to go to the Nurburgring with always worrying about the risks, but I was glad I took the plunge to experience it : )
That obligatory Nurburgring photo : )
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine s2000 TCT (Timing Chain Tensioner)
Honda Part Number: 14510-PCX-005
Supplier: Japserviceparts
(Tegiwa or Coxmotorparts should also have these in stock for immediate dispatch)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Everything You Need to Know About Going to The Nurburgring
http://nurburgring.org.uk/beginners.php
YouTube Video - Beginners Visit to the Nurburgring
Where to go and what to do
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDCqOZ1upoo
Task 64 - Reseal Lower Boot Pan Floor & Tighten Petrol Filler Pipe Neck
05-10-2019
With several heavy rainfalls this week, I did my routine water boot check to see if any water is entering the boot.
The s2000 is notorious for this and from previous tasks I have covered all the main common water entry points that occur on the s2000 as they age.
Having owned an s2000 for nearly 2 years, I have to say the bane of ownership has got to be water leaks from an otherwise pretty robust reliable well engineered car. It could be just down to the age, with seals perishing due to being a convertible or probably just bad luck. You could say rust, but s2000's of this age, especially one being 20 years old would have some sort of rust by now unless it was garaged or meticulously maintained by one single owner throughout its life.
I lifted the tool kit to see if any resting water was present, thankfully there was none but the interior trim carpet on the lowest point was alittle damp. I decided to pull everything up as it would be ideal to catch any issues before the winter.
Once all the boot interior trim was out, there was no evidence of any water entering the boot. The boot pan was dry and no evidence of any water resting.
At this point I was quite relieved, but the slight dampness had to be coming from somewhere.
Detailed checks were performed on all areas, including removing the spare wheel to see of any water marks or dampness. All seemed clear.
The rear antenna base mount was checked and confirmed fastened tightly and secured.
Another potential water entry point from previous forum threads is the fuel filler neck. There is a gasket which sandwiches from the inside the boot area onto the inside rear quarter panel fuel filler cap box section. Three nuts hold the neck in place compressing the gasket. Two bolts were very slightly loose which may have let some small amount of water through, these bolts are now tighten up. The gasket looked in good condition with no rips or tears.
The boot section was left completely empty and with rain forecasted for the next couple weeks, it would be a good test to see if any droplets of water find its way into the boot.
After a month or so had past, the boot remained completely water free so the next stage was to ensure a good permanent rust proof coating on the lower boot pan floor. I originally used Dinitrol rust proof spray back in "Task 49" but I found that the interior trim started to rub it away. I needed something really permanent.
Upon research, POR15 rust proof paint coating seemed recommended by DIYguys (YouTube video on an s2000 boot floor replacement) and leaves a permanent hard top coat layer which would be impossible for the interior trim to rub away. If any water did find its way there it should not penetrate into the metal floor. It sounded perfect. Not cheap stuff though, a 473ml tin is £35.
I purchased the can and once received got to work. I decided upon semi gloss black colour and applied 3 coats of the stuff.
Lovely to apply with no brush strokes, it leaves a nice smooth finish.
Note: This paint dries quicker in high humidity conditions, pretty strange.
So it usually takes around 1 or 2 hours for it to become ready for the 2nd coat.
I had to spread this over a week so when it does cure, just lightly abrade the surface with 300 grade sand paper and apply the next coat.
Tips:
-Prep is everything, make sure the surface to be painted is degreased and clean
-Stir properly and not just shake the tin
-Pour the right amount into a separate cup and seal the can immediately.
(This stuff will start to go off once exposed to the air, by sealing the tin immediately the remaining contents are unaffected)
-Make sure the lid and groove are squeaky clean, or you will never get the lid off when it cures.
-Always wear gloves, If you get any on your skin and you don`t clean it off, it takes weeks for it to wear off
In hindsight, using black hammerite paint would have done the job just fine I think, and be 3 times cheaper.
Parts Purchased:
Part: POR15 Rust Proof Paint 473ml (Semi Gloss Black)
Part Number: P230BLACK
Supplier: Frost Restoration (via their ebay shop)
https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-black-rust-preventio...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
YouTube Video - DIYguys (s2000 Boot Floor Panel Replacement)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsFjFovAwAE
Task 65 - Final 2019 End of Year Photo Shoot
10-11-2019
With another year drawing to a close and the winter starting to settle in, we had an opportunity for a final quick little photo shoot after my brother having had some work done on his 1994 B16 powered Honda Civic Coupe by our favourite Honda specialist "Performance Autoworks"
A lovely little car park staged a nice settings for a some quick photos somewhere in Fairford Gloucestershire.
Both car's have come a long way, and both are running and performing better than ever.
I have definitely enjoyed the s2000 alot this year.
Here's to more adventures with it in 2020.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list.
Lots to keep me busy in 2020.
To-Do's
-Replace Top Bumper Metal Plate Beam due to corrosion
-Replace Two Outer Top Bumper Screws (Previous owner having installed random bolts)
-Wire brush all suspension arms & Dinitrol Spray them
-Dinitrol Spray Rear Belly of Chassis
-Replace Rear Fog Light Assembly with new OEM (due to dodgy previous owner repair)
-Geo Alignment
Long Term
-Completely re-work slight arch rust issues
-Paint Bonnet and Boot lid due to surface paint defects
Thanks for reading guys
13-11-19
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