g3org3y's shedtastic £900 BMW E46 330Ci
Discussion
The E36 328i Touring is gone 
As such, a new budget daily driver was required.
Cue the £900 2000 E46 330Ci.
Next to the wife's E91 330i (which ultimately replaced the 328 as we have a baby on the way)
In SE spec, came complete with working air conditioning, leather interior, cruise control, 18 inch MV1 alloys (retrofitted by previous owner), 6 disc CD changer and most importantly, manual gearbox. Note, as this is an early model it has the 5 speed box, I believe later 330s had a 6 speed.
~150k on the clock but very decent service history.
Bodywork surprisingly good. Small rust bubble front left arch but otherwise pretty darn straight.
Some details:
Original BMW first aid kit
Working BMW glovebox torch
Nice clean boot complete with jack, warning triangle, chock and spacesaver (under the cover).
Original now complete toolkit (was missing the pliers, spark plug tool and wheel alignment pin but had spares). Just ordered the alloy wheel locking key.
Seemed to be quite a well cared for car. Apart from the retrofitted MV alloys, it had a RamAir induction kit installed.
On the drive back from collecting it, made it 95% of the way home when suddenly it had a grumble. ASC/DSC light came on and the engine would hesitate on acceleration. After parking up and trying to restart, it took quite a few turns before it'd catch and then the idle was lumpy.
Fault code was read:
Suggested the crankshaft position sensor. Not especially major and (relatively speaking) a straightforward job as it is positioned on the side of the block. MAF/hoses and some other bits need to be removed for access but nothing major. Research online suggested not to bother with any pattern parts and only use genuine BMW item.
The next morning once the engine (and sensor) had cooled, car started fine. Drove it to work daily with no issues and no recurrence of the problem. However, decided it was sensible to just replace the sensor to prevent the issue happening again.
Visit to the local dealer to get the sensor (plus bolt + o-ring)
Was going to attempt the job myself but looked a bit on the fiddly side, plus with a bolt that may be seized after 19 years issues could ensue so decided to entrust to my local mechanic. In the meantime, bought an OE airbox on ebay (+ Mann air filter). I requested when refitting the MAF/hoses following the sensor change to replace the induction kit with the airbox.
This was completed earlier this week:
Apart from that, I've just fitted new Bosch wipers and Osram Nightbreaker Laser H7 bulbs (as no xenons). They are actually very impressive and I'd recommend them to anyone struggling with rubbish OE halogen lights on their car.
Other minor issues:
- Driver's side door doesn't 'hold' in the open position
- Amber oil level light comes on for 5 seconds on starting - this is owing to a faulty sensor (checked the level manually). Seller actually included the sensor with the car. Quite straightforward to change and will do it when I change the oil.
Next steps:
- Change the manual box oil and differential oil.
- Next oil change is due in 4500 miles according to the OBC but might do it with the above and spark plugs so it's done.
- Have some 17 inch Alpina Softlines from my E36 sitting in the garage. Tempted to 'downsize' to 17s (I believe they'll fit fine) and put some Michelin CrossClimates for year round usability.
- MoT due August 2020.
Otherwise, for the time being the plan is just to drive and enjoy. Can't complain for £900 methinks.
As such, a new budget daily driver was required.
Cue the £900 2000 E46 330Ci.
Next to the wife's E91 330i (which ultimately replaced the 328 as we have a baby on the way)
In SE spec, came complete with working air conditioning, leather interior, cruise control, 18 inch MV1 alloys (retrofitted by previous owner), 6 disc CD changer and most importantly, manual gearbox. Note, as this is an early model it has the 5 speed box, I believe later 330s had a 6 speed.
~150k on the clock but very decent service history.
Bodywork surprisingly good. Small rust bubble front left arch but otherwise pretty darn straight.
Some details:
Original BMW first aid kit
Working BMW glovebox torch
Nice clean boot complete with jack, warning triangle, chock and spacesaver (under the cover).
Original now complete toolkit (was missing the pliers, spark plug tool and wheel alignment pin but had spares). Just ordered the alloy wheel locking key.
Seemed to be quite a well cared for car. Apart from the retrofitted MV alloys, it had a RamAir induction kit installed.
On the drive back from collecting it, made it 95% of the way home when suddenly it had a grumble. ASC/DSC light came on and the engine would hesitate on acceleration. After parking up and trying to restart, it took quite a few turns before it'd catch and then the idle was lumpy.
Fault code was read:
Suggested the crankshaft position sensor. Not especially major and (relatively speaking) a straightforward job as it is positioned on the side of the block. MAF/hoses and some other bits need to be removed for access but nothing major. Research online suggested not to bother with any pattern parts and only use genuine BMW item.
The next morning once the engine (and sensor) had cooled, car started fine. Drove it to work daily with no issues and no recurrence of the problem. However, decided it was sensible to just replace the sensor to prevent the issue happening again.
Visit to the local dealer to get the sensor (plus bolt + o-ring)
Was going to attempt the job myself but looked a bit on the fiddly side, plus with a bolt that may be seized after 19 years issues could ensue so decided to entrust to my local mechanic. In the meantime, bought an OE airbox on ebay (+ Mann air filter). I requested when refitting the MAF/hoses following the sensor change to replace the induction kit with the airbox.
This was completed earlier this week:
Apart from that, I've just fitted new Bosch wipers and Osram Nightbreaker Laser H7 bulbs (as no xenons). They are actually very impressive and I'd recommend them to anyone struggling with rubbish OE halogen lights on their car.
Other minor issues:
- Driver's side door doesn't 'hold' in the open position
- Amber oil level light comes on for 5 seconds on starting - this is owing to a faulty sensor (checked the level manually). Seller actually included the sensor with the car. Quite straightforward to change and will do it when I change the oil.
Next steps:
- Change the manual box oil and differential oil.
- Next oil change is due in 4500 miles according to the OBC but might do it with the above and spark plugs so it's done.
- Have some 17 inch Alpina Softlines from my E36 sitting in the garage. Tempted to 'downsize' to 17s (I believe they'll fit fine) and put some Michelin CrossClimates for year round usability.
- MoT due August 2020.
Otherwise, for the time being the plan is just to drive and enjoy. Can't complain for £900 methinks.
Thanks all, I'm pretty happy with it 
Will keep the thread updated as I go.
Thanks IR.
Being a devoted and conscientious future father, I also bought another car with Isofix.
That's 3 cars with Isofix (all with 3 litre straight six engines). Top parenting IMO
I changed the diff oil on my old E36 (as well as the manual box fluid), pretty straightforward to do (assuming plugs undo with no issues). Just had a delivery of Castrol Syntrax and I've ordered the new plugs (with the integrated o-rings). I'll look about the washers as well.
Having taken my 328 from 126k to 214k I've had my fair share of cooling issues (went through 2 or 3 rads in that time).
Will keep the thread updated as I go.
InductionRoar said:
g3org3y said:
we have a baby on the way
Congrats. Being a devoted and conscientious future father, I also bought another car with Isofix.
That's 3 cars with Isofix (all with 3 litre straight six engines). Top parenting IMO
Benton said:
His had the MV1 wheels which looked great but tramlined badly. He swapped them for 17s and immediately noticed that the tramlining was completely gone, ride was better due to more sidewall in the tyre and tyre noise was reduced. A worthwhile swap IMHO.
Re the diff oil, an easy job but you'll need a pump to get the new oil in due to access (can dig out a link to the one I used if needed) plus do get new drain and fill plug washers on hand before you start. The washers on our car just fell apart on removal. Our diff was considerably quieter after the fluid change so well worth the effort.
Yes, the downsize to 17s is tempting. Must admit, the Alpinas are a bit worse for wear and could do with a refurb. Something to consider.Re the diff oil, an easy job but you'll need a pump to get the new oil in due to access (can dig out a link to the one I used if needed) plus do get new drain and fill plug washers on hand before you start. The washers on our car just fell apart on removal. Our diff was considerably quieter after the fluid change so well worth the effort.
I changed the diff oil on my old E36 (as well as the manual box fluid), pretty straightforward to do (assuming plugs undo with no issues). Just had a delivery of Castrol Syntrax and I've ordered the new plugs (with the integrated o-rings). I'll look about the washers as well.
Amirhussain said:
Alex from Car Throttle purchased one for....£140...
Indeed! His seems a bit worse for wear but still going!Court_S said:
Has the cooling system had any recent work? That was the biggest source of frustration on my old 325ti.
.
I think it had a waterpump not that long ago. Can't remember re the rad. IIRC, .
Having taken my 328 from 126k to 214k I've had my fair share of cooling issues (went through 2 or 3 rads in that time).
Aluminati said:
Nice one George, and congrats re the nipper on the way 
Can’t remember if Croxy had some bits lurking for one of these, shall ask.
Tom.
Thanks Tom, hope life treating you well. Can’t remember if Croxy had some bits lurking for one of these, shall ask.
Tom.
Update:
Been driving the car daily for work and so far it hasn't blown up! Split fold rear seats means it's quite useful for tip runs:
Few little bits and pieces going on though:
1) Following the installation of the OE airbox, the dash threw up a Check Engine light. Thought that as a bit odd as the engine was running fine. No lumpiness, full power all through the rev range.
Plugged in the code reader and it came up with:
Did some googling and it suggested the engine was running either rich or lean, various culprits including the rubber boots (cracked/leaking) linking the MAF, the MAF itself, O2 sensors, CCV etc.
The fact that it came on the day after the change to the OE airbox suggested an issue in the areas that were dismantled/reassembled. Perhaps one of the rubber boots became cracked and was leaking after removal and refit.
Admittedly I was quite lazy with this. As the car was starting and running fine, I didn't go out of my way to get this sorted. Every so often I'd clear the codes and extinguish the light. After a few days, the light would come back on again. Same codes. Again, running fine.
Last week, I replaced the rubber boot next to the MAF (#3 in the diagram) (was actually ok tbh) and gave the MAF a decent spray of MAF cleaner. After a few days, the light came back on. My next plan to was to look at/replace the rubber boot (#6)
Then a few days ago, the light went out of its own accord and hasn't appeared since. I wonder whether it's to do with the car's adaptations (I've read about people resetting them using OBD code readers). Perhaps it was used to the airflow from the induction kit and needed to take time adapt to the new (OE) set up.
Regardless, the light hasn't come back. Fingers crossed.
2) OS door mirror cover fell off (and disappeared somewhere). Cunning Ocado plastic bag shielding the precious electrics:
Managed to get a second hand cover on eBay for about £15. Sorted.
3) NS mirror wasn't heating up, so bought a new mirror, again ebay, less than a tenner. Works perfectly.
4) Last winter (or maybe the winter before) bought lots of screenwash on ebay at a bargain bulk buy price. Used it without any bother on my E36 (I use Genuine BMW on the E91 and Z4)
As the E46 was running low, thought I'd top it up. I noted it had red screenwash and I'd read that mixing different ones could cause problems. Given I had a couple of bottles of the stuff above and not wanting to buy any new red screenwash (tight git), I decided to run the screenwash tank to empty and take my chances.
Unfortunately, it seemed that the gamble didn't pay off. The jets weren't that great before TBH but quite quickly they became v weak indeed. They'd bubble for 5 seconds and then flow like an 80 year old with prostate problems.
Did a bit of reading and found out that it's the filters in the bottle get clogged up. Luckily they are quite accessible (unlike the later E90 which has them under the arch iirc). As such, decided to get them out and see what was going on.
There are two pumps with their own filters, one for the windscreen and one for the headlight washers.
Pumps unplug and lift up. The filter can then be removed.
Windscreen:
Headlight:
Hot water + nail brush =
Windscreen:
Headlight:
They work great now! (and I'm still using the blue screenwash).
5) CD autochanger shat itself and won't eject. Apparently can be removed and dismantled but can't be bothered tbh. Will stick to the radio for the time being.
6) Aircon still working well. Really great in the recent crappy weather keeping the windows mist free.
7) Plans: debating dropping down to 17s to get a set of Michelin CrossClimates. On the staggered 18 inch set up, the rears are 255/35R18 which is an annoying size as there isn't that much (including CrossClimates) available. On the 17s I'd be going for 225/45 R17s. We'll see...
So, overall not doing too bad for a £900 car. Doesn't look terrible when parked up in the village either despite being nearly 20 years old.
Been driving the car daily for work and so far it hasn't blown up! Split fold rear seats means it's quite useful for tip runs:
Few little bits and pieces going on though:
1) Following the installation of the OE airbox, the dash threw up a Check Engine light. Thought that as a bit odd as the engine was running fine. No lumpiness, full power all through the rev range.
Plugged in the code reader and it came up with:
Did some googling and it suggested the engine was running either rich or lean, various culprits including the rubber boots (cracked/leaking) linking the MAF, the MAF itself, O2 sensors, CCV etc.
The fact that it came on the day after the change to the OE airbox suggested an issue in the areas that were dismantled/reassembled. Perhaps one of the rubber boots became cracked and was leaking after removal and refit.
Admittedly I was quite lazy with this. As the car was starting and running fine, I didn't go out of my way to get this sorted. Every so often I'd clear the codes and extinguish the light. After a few days, the light would come back on again. Same codes. Again, running fine.
Last week, I replaced the rubber boot next to the MAF (#3 in the diagram) (was actually ok tbh) and gave the MAF a decent spray of MAF cleaner. After a few days, the light came back on. My next plan to was to look at/replace the rubber boot (#6)
Then a few days ago, the light went out of its own accord and hasn't appeared since. I wonder whether it's to do with the car's adaptations (I've read about people resetting them using OBD code readers). Perhaps it was used to the airflow from the induction kit and needed to take time adapt to the new (OE) set up.
Regardless, the light hasn't come back. Fingers crossed.
2) OS door mirror cover fell off (and disappeared somewhere). Cunning Ocado plastic bag shielding the precious electrics:
Managed to get a second hand cover on eBay for about £15. Sorted.
3) NS mirror wasn't heating up, so bought a new mirror, again ebay, less than a tenner. Works perfectly.
4) Last winter (or maybe the winter before) bought lots of screenwash on ebay at a bargain bulk buy price. Used it without any bother on my E36 (I use Genuine BMW on the E91 and Z4)
As the E46 was running low, thought I'd top it up. I noted it had red screenwash and I'd read that mixing different ones could cause problems. Given I had a couple of bottles of the stuff above and not wanting to buy any new red screenwash (tight git), I decided to run the screenwash tank to empty and take my chances.
Unfortunately, it seemed that the gamble didn't pay off. The jets weren't that great before TBH but quite quickly they became v weak indeed. They'd bubble for 5 seconds and then flow like an 80 year old with prostate problems.
Did a bit of reading and found out that it's the filters in the bottle get clogged up. Luckily they are quite accessible (unlike the later E90 which has them under the arch iirc). As such, decided to get them out and see what was going on.
There are two pumps with their own filters, one for the windscreen and one for the headlight washers.
Pumps unplug and lift up. The filter can then be removed.
Windscreen:
Headlight:
Hot water + nail brush =
Windscreen:
Headlight:
They work great now!
(and I'm still using the blue screenwash).5) CD autochanger shat itself and won't eject. Apparently can be removed and dismantled but can't be bothered tbh. Will stick to the radio for the time being.
6) Aircon still working well. Really great in the recent crappy weather keeping the windows mist free.
7) Plans: debating dropping down to 17s to get a set of Michelin CrossClimates. On the staggered 18 inch set up, the rears are 255/35R18 which is an annoying size as there isn't that much (including CrossClimates) available. On the 17s I'd be going for 225/45 R17s. We'll see...
So, overall not doing too bad for a £900 car. Doesn't look terrible when parked up in the village either despite being nearly 20 years old.
Edited by g3org3y on Saturday 16th November 20:49
Thanks chaps.
Alpinas waiting...
What does it do?
k. This one isn't perfect, touch of bubbling NS front arch but generally pretty decent.
Build of the E46 seems ok. General impressions is that the E36 is a bit more solid. I've had 3 E36s so a bit of an E36 fanboy.
Aircon is a big help in this country imo. Many seem to think it's just to cool in the summer but the ability to dry the air and demist the windows shouldn't be underestimated.
Will find a hammer.
F1GTRUeno said:
Always loved MV1's and the steering wheel with the split bottom spoke.
In isolation, I'm not a massive MV1 fan but they seem to really suit the coupe. As mentioned, the 18 inch OEM staggered set up means a v annoying tyre size on the back.Alpinas waiting...
gchristofi said:
Cracking cars these and such a steal in that condition..... I reckon they are a future classic as too many are left to rot.
They are really great looking. As alluded to in my post, they don't look 20 years old. No shame in turning up to events in this. No-one at work can believe this is a £900 car.helix402 said:
You can bin the whole aux air pump if you want.
Is that this item?What does it do?
to3m said:
I like the E46.
I had a 320d for 4 years, which I managed to roll over and put upside down in a ditch, because I'm a tard. Then I had a 330d for 7 years, which some chump - not me this time - wrote off by driving into the side of it. I'm still bitter. They were both great. I fancied a third, but I just didn't believe I'd be able to find one that wasn't a rusty pile of st
I ran the aircon permanently in both cars, and had no issues with it in both cases. Same goes for the E90 I drive now. As far as I can tell, you only get aircon problems if you switch it off. Best to leave it running permanently.
To fix the CD changer, maybe give it a whack with a hammer: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I had problems with washer jet pressure on my 330d, and in the end it turned out to be the headlight washer jets: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I saw a few E46 in and around this price point but as you mention, most are rusty as fI had a 320d for 4 years, which I managed to roll over and put upside down in a ditch, because I'm a tard. Then I had a 330d for 7 years, which some chump - not me this time - wrote off by driving into the side of it. I'm still bitter. They were both great. I fancied a third, but I just didn't believe I'd be able to find one that wasn't a rusty pile of s
t I ran the aircon permanently in both cars, and had no issues with it in both cases. Same goes for the E90 I drive now. As far as I can tell, you only get aircon problems if you switch it off. Best to leave it running permanently.
To fix the CD changer, maybe give it a whack with a hammer: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I had problems with washer jet pressure on my 330d, and in the end it turned out to be the headlight washer jets: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
k. This one isn't perfect, touch of bubbling NS front arch but generally pretty decent.Build of the E46 seems ok. General impressions is that the E36 is a bit more solid. I've had 3 E36s so a bit of an E36 fanboy.
Aircon is a big help in this country imo. Many seem to think it's just to cool in the summer but the ability to dry the air and demist the windows shouldn't be underestimated.
Will find a hammer.
ATM said:
My mates cayenne v8 had an auxiliary air pump. Apparently it pumps fresh air into the exhaust while the engine is running on choke so the emissions will pass the relevant test for this age of car. So basically they fool the emissions tester by diluting the nasty gasses with nice clean fresh air.
That's interesting. Never heard of that before. I presume it would only be an issue for the MoT is if the test is done first thing with the car cold.According to this article, the ECU needs to be reprogrammed to take into account the removal.
Steve91 said:
Awesome bargain for the money. I've looked into these a few times but most are wrecks for that budget!
You're in Colchester? I recognise the BMW dealers and the picture in Dedham
Essex, it's the only way. You're in Colchester? I recognise the BMW dealers and the picture in Dedham
ATM said:
g3org3y said:
ATM said:
My mates cayenne v8 had an auxiliary air pump. Apparently it pumps fresh air into the exhaust while the engine is running on choke so the emissions will pass the relevant test for this age of car. So basically they fool the emissions tester by diluting the nasty gasses with nice clean fresh air.
That's interesting. Never heard of that before. I presume it would only be an issue for the MoT is if the test is done first thing with the car cold.According to this article, the ECU needs to be reprogrammed to take into account the removal.
magpie215 said:
£900.....That is a lot of car for shed money.
I'm impressed
Sheds FTW. I'm impressed
After the ASC/ABS light going on/off intermittently with no rhyme or reason, it's now been off for a week. Better leave it then...
Check engine light came back on. Car still runs fine. Am loathe to fiddle around if the car's running ok tbh. I'll see how things progress over winter. Never failed to start on the button even in this -2 cold mornings.
Thanks for the info re the wheels. 225/45R17s are probably what I'd go for (on the Alpinas). Will need to get round to swapping them over...it's rather chilly outside at the moment though. Car is rather comical on the Arrowspeed tyres. Any decent throttle application = DSC light flashing.
Check engine light came back on. Car still runs fine. Am loathe to fiddle around if the car's running ok tbh. I'll see how things progress over winter. Never failed to start on the button even in this -2 cold mornings.
Thanks for the info re the wheels. 225/45R17s are probably what I'd go for (on the Alpinas). Will need to get round to swapping them over...it's rather chilly outside at the moment though. Car is rather comical on the Arrowspeed tyres. Any decent throttle application = DSC light flashing.
Not very exciting update.
ASC/ABS light still on intermittently. I'm sure I'll get round to sorting.
Just to say, had a very sticky driver's side door handle. Used this Youtube tutorial to fix and it worked perfectly. Simple fix and definitely worth a go if your door handle is playing up.
ASC/ABS light still on intermittently. I'm sure I'll get round to sorting.
Just to say, had a very sticky driver's side door handle. Used this Youtube tutorial to fix and it worked perfectly. Simple fix and definitely worth a go if your door handle is playing up.
Update...
Against official Shed rules, but had to spend some money for aesthetic purposes.
During a home visit at work, I noticed the right side grill was very loose. Checked and it appeared all the clips were buggered. Decided it was better to remove completely than have it fall out while driving along.
Couldn't leave the car like this so spent £22 on a new grill from eBay.
Normal service resumed:
Thought I'd take the opportunity today to change the oil and do the spark plugs (I don't think the latter had been done for many miles/years).
I was a bit worried about the spark plugs being seized and breaking on removal but thought I'd give it a go regardless.
Got it all jacked up and on axle stands
Top tip, Alpina alloys make good door stops
One of the thing that bothers me when changing spark plugs is the rubber insert on the removal tool. Gets stuck on the plug when you don't want it to.Tried to remove plug #1 and it seemed rock solid. Not a good start. Bugger. Thought I'd try plug #2. This came out much easier but wouldn't attach to the tool to allow removal. I then realised the rubber insert was still attached on plug #1. Double bugger. Sprayed a load of PlusGas down all the spark plug holes in the hope it'd help loosen things. Seems to have helped as #1 came out (with the rubber insert). In fact, all seemed to come out ok so big relief.
Quite a difference:
One of the little niggles with the car was the oil level light. On start up,, it would illuminate for 5-10 seconds and go out. The car was actually supplied with a replacement oil level sensor. It's quite straightforward to replace (stuck into the bottom of the sump) but to access you need to remove the metal undertray.
8x 16mm bolts. With a breaker bar and some effort got it off.
Oil drained. Sump plug surprisingly problem free to undo. I did notice however it was lacking the copper crush washer (which I did replace as it comes with the Mann oil filter).
3x10mm nuts and the old oil level sensor came out with no bother.
Oil filter was stuck like a mofo on the housing. Never had that before in all my years of working on BMWs with these kinds of filters. Actually had to cut it off with a stanley knife (didn't want to risk damaging the housing or insert).
All in all quite straighforward. Car started, no misfire and hasn't pissed oil everywhere, so result!
- Yet to do the diff or gearbox oil.
- ASC/ABS light still intermittently on/off. Bought a replacement, looked easy enough to do. I tried to unscrew the sensor (allen key head iirc) but the fking bolt managed to snap midway down the shaft! Will probably have to take to the mechanic to kindly sort.
Still check engine light on. Same codes, though now I noticed a new code: 7b Activation, map cooling
Research suggests this is to do with a thermostat electrical heating circuit failure and requires thermostat replacement, so that's on the list. Water pump was last done October 2017. Wonder whether it's worth doing that at the same time.
If I'm motivated tomorrow, I may check the proximal rubber boot on the intake and see if there are any cracks on that. I think I might need to remove the DISA valve to access.
The delights of old cars...!
Against official Shed rules, but had to spend some money for aesthetic purposes.
During a home visit at work, I noticed the right side grill was very loose. Checked and it appeared all the clips were buggered. Decided it was better to remove completely than have it fall out while driving along.
Couldn't leave the car like this so spent £22 on a new grill from eBay.
Normal service resumed:
Thought I'd take the opportunity today to change the oil and do the spark plugs (I don't think the latter had been done for many miles/years).
I was a bit worried about the spark plugs being seized and breaking on removal but thought I'd give it a go regardless.
Got it all jacked up and on axle stands
Top tip, Alpina alloys make good door stops
One of the thing that bothers me when changing spark plugs is the rubber insert on the removal tool. Gets stuck on the plug when you don't want it to.Tried to remove plug #1 and it seemed rock solid. Not a good start. Bugger. Thought I'd try plug #2. This came out much easier but wouldn't attach to the tool to allow removal. I then realised the rubber insert was still attached on plug #1. Double bugger. Sprayed a load of PlusGas down all the spark plug holes in the hope it'd help loosen things. Seems to have helped as #1 came out (with the rubber insert). In fact, all seemed to come out ok so big relief.
Quite a difference:
One of the little niggles with the car was the oil level light. On start up,, it would illuminate for 5-10 seconds and go out. The car was actually supplied with a replacement oil level sensor. It's quite straightforward to replace (stuck into the bottom of the sump) but to access you need to remove the metal undertray.
8x 16mm bolts. With a breaker bar and some effort got it off.
Oil drained. Sump plug surprisingly problem free to undo. I did notice however it was lacking the copper crush washer (which I did replace as it comes with the Mann oil filter).
3x10mm nuts and the old oil level sensor came out with no bother.
Oil filter was stuck like a mofo on the housing. Never had that before in all my years of working on BMWs with these kinds of filters. Actually had to cut it off with a stanley knife (didn't want to risk damaging the housing or insert).
All in all quite straighforward.
Car started, no misfire and hasn't pissed oil everywhere, so result! - Yet to do the diff or gearbox oil.
- ASC/ABS light still intermittently on/off. Bought a replacement, looked easy enough to do. I tried to unscrew the sensor (allen key head iirc) but the f
king bolt managed to snap midway down the shaft! Will probably have to take to the mechanic to kindly sort.Still check engine light on. Same codes, though now I noticed a new code: 7b Activation, map cooling
Research suggests this is to do with a thermostat electrical heating circuit failure and requires thermostat replacement, so that's on the list. Water pump was last done October 2017. Wonder whether it's worth doing that at the same time.
If I'm motivated tomorrow, I may check the proximal rubber boot on the intake and see if there are any cracks on that. I think I might need to remove the DISA valve to access.
The delights of old cars...!
Enthused by yesterday's activities, did a bit more in the garage over the evening.
I've already mentioned the check engine light and codes. I noticed that the idle first thing was also a bit lumpy. Was fine if you drove away immediately though. Also a few occasions of the last couple of weeks where the idle pulses when coming to standstill.
My plan was to remove the proximal rubber boot and replace and see if that had cracked or been damaged when the crankshaft sensor was replaced.
Bit fiddly to get to, necessitates removal of the DISA valve. Also ease of removal can very much depend on the orientation of the jubilee clips left by whoever worked on the car last.
Removed, needed a long socket to squeeze through a gap but managed it.
Annoyingly, looked fine (new on the left, old on the right)
DISA valve seemed to hold vacuum ok.
I did notice the deterioration of the gasket around the frame. Could that be an issue? I'm not sure. I also understand that the gasket at the base also degrades over time and causes an issue.
Have ordered a new one (went for Febi-Bilstein rather than a cheapo eBay special), so we'll see how that works out.
I've already mentioned the check engine light and codes. I noticed that the idle first thing was also a bit lumpy. Was fine if you drove away immediately though. Also a few occasions of the last couple of weeks where the idle pulses when coming to standstill.
My plan was to remove the proximal rubber boot and replace and see if that had cracked or been damaged when the crankshaft sensor was replaced.
Bit fiddly to get to, necessitates removal of the DISA valve. Also ease of removal can very much depend on the orientation of the jubilee clips left by whoever worked on the car last.
Removed, needed a long socket to squeeze through a gap but managed it.
Annoyingly, looked fine (new on the left, old on the right)
DISA valve seemed to hold vacuum ok.
I did notice the deterioration of the gasket around the frame. Could that be an issue? I'm not sure. I also understand that the gasket at the base also degrades over time and causes an issue.
Have ordered a new one (went for Febi-Bilstein rather than a cheapo eBay special), so we'll see how that works out.
A bit of fun trivia for the BMW geeks. Originally the E46 Coupe was launched with the 318Ci, 320Ci, 323Ci and 328Ci. The 330Ci was released a little later. It looks like these early 330Cis were supplied with the regular manual which covers the aforementioned models, but also has a second supplementary manal covering the stats related to the 330Ci.
Edited by g3org3y on Monday 13th January 17:30
wombleh said:
Often wondered if those night breaker bulbs were a worthwhile upgrade, ordered some for my e61 based on your comment.
Lovely car, I had the 320ci. Was great other than in the snow/ice so cross climates will be worthwhile!
They are definitely v decent bulbs. If you're stuck with halogens, worthwhile upgrade. Can't comment on their longevity but we'll see.Lovely car, I had the 320ci. Was great other than in the snow/ice so cross climates will be worthwhile!
C70R said:
Gut feel for me was that they suited the auto box better. The smooth engine and heavy feel made them a great cruiser and London car for me.
I've always felt the bigger engined sixes worked well as either manual or autos. The autos of this (and slightly later) era definitely stunt the economy though. I'd say my manual Z4 (3.0Si) is more economical than my wife's auto E91 330i.Speaking of which, because I've been working on the E46 330, the Z4 has been my daily over the last couple of days.
It may be over a decade old but I still think it looks fresh. Down in the village this morning:
New DISA + all new rubber inlet boots fitted yesterday.
Difference made to the cold idle? fk all. Still bumpy from cold but if you drive off immediately it's fine.
Check engine light came back on today after I reset it. Same codes as before.
Engine does seem more eager though since the changes. Difficult to describe, just seems more punchy when you put your foot down.
Not sure what's next on the list to try and solve the idle/check engine light problem. Might just leave it.
Difference made to the cold idle? f
k all. Still bumpy from cold but if you drive off immediately it's fine. Check engine light came back on today after I reset it. Same codes as before.
Engine does seem more eager though since the changes. Difficult to describe, just seems more punchy when you put your foot down.
Not sure what's next on the list to try and solve the idle/check engine light problem. Might just leave it.
craigjm said:
Sell it and buy something decent you tight fisted tt 
You know since the arrival of the baby I'm even poorer than I was before. t 
PaulGT3 said:
Good advice
Thanks for all that Paul, appreciate it. I suppose it's a combo of time and being arsed that puts me off to a certain extent. 3 month baby, I don't necessarily want to be spending every weekend trying to troubleshoot a niggley car (Cue shouts from the audience - why did you buy a 20 year old BMW then!? - good point
).Aluminati said:
Italian tune up on the A12 George. Avoiding Boreham.
Gave it a bit of grief last night after the check engine light came on again. Honestly, it picks up well and has very good power all the way to the top end.Finally, some progress.
Quickly just to go back re some points in the previous post.
Sorted a new vacuum line to replace the cracked bit. Thanks Halfords
This are the details of the (Febi Bilstein) DISA value I bought:
As mentioned, neither seemed to improve the situation.
Over the weekend I had the idea of seeing how the car would be with the MAF unplugged. I'd been suspicious about the MAF since the first Check Engine light came after the airbox change. I'd used a decent amount of MAF cleaner on it a while back but it didn't make any difference.
Anyway, MAF unplugged and the car started very cleanly. Idle stable. No pulsing idle when coming to standstill. Basically car was running as I would expect it to.
With the MAF unplugged, I understand the car defaults to preset fuelling maps but will typically run rich. Thought I'd drive it for a few days and see what would happen. The car ran fine and the Check Engine light never came on. This suggested to me that the problem indeed more than likely lay with the MAF.
I read the codes:
Cooling map activation - thermostat as discussed previously.
MAF signal - as expected given it was unplugged.
When the MAF was plugged back in, within a day or so got the same Trim Bank codes and Check Engine light again.
Decided to crack on and get a new MAF. Plenty of cheap crap on eBay for £20. OE BMW is Siemens. I ended up going for an alternative (read slightly cheaper) OEM - Hella.
When I previously installed the MAF (when replacing the boots/DISA), I was never 100% happy with the alignment. Now with the new MAF I decided to dismantle everything and start again.
I came across a thread (on E46fanatics) that suggested most people don't put the lower boot on properly as they don't line up the tab in the specific gap.
I was very careful to orientate the hose in the correct place. I also changed the location of the jubilee clip. Ended up putting it towards the back facing up as you can see here:
In order to access this I bought a special flexible extension fitted with a 6mm socket. First time I tightened it, the socket got stuck and fell off the end (luckily through the gaps and onto the floor) Decided to gaffer tape it to the end to stop that happening again.
Worked really well in the end and got the hose sited properly. Reinstalled everything else. I found some of this stuff really helped to get the hoses on easily
With the lower intake boot in the correct orientation, everything come together much better. New MAF was installed.
Car started and the idle was perfect. Took it for a drive by the end of which I'd expect it to give the 'Trim Bank' codes. Now all I get is:
Car drives great, pulls very well all the way to the red line. It actually now feels faster than my E36 328.
Anyone else feel the temptation to keep old parts...'just in case'.
Fingers crossed this situation is sorted! Luckily I had my motivational mug to keep me going.
Quickly just to go back re some points in the previous post.
Sorted a new vacuum line to replace the cracked bit. Thanks Halfords
This are the details of the (Febi Bilstein) DISA value I bought:
As mentioned, neither seemed to improve the situation.
Over the weekend I had the idea of seeing how the car would be with the MAF unplugged. I'd been suspicious about the MAF since the first Check Engine light came after the airbox change. I'd used a decent amount of MAF cleaner on it a while back but it didn't make any difference.
Anyway, MAF unplugged and the car started very cleanly. Idle stable. No pulsing idle when coming to standstill. Basically car was running as I would expect it to.
With the MAF unplugged, I understand the car defaults to preset fuelling maps but will typically run rich. Thought I'd drive it for a few days and see what would happen. The car ran fine and the Check Engine light never came on. This suggested to me that the problem indeed more than likely lay with the MAF.
I read the codes:
Cooling map activation - thermostat as discussed previously.
MAF signal - as expected given it was unplugged.
When the MAF was plugged back in, within a day or so got the same Trim Bank codes and Check Engine light again.
Decided to crack on and get a new MAF. Plenty of cheap crap on eBay for £20. OE BMW is Siemens. I ended up going for an alternative (read slightly cheaper) OEM - Hella.
When I previously installed the MAF (when replacing the boots/DISA), I was never 100% happy with the alignment. Now with the new MAF I decided to dismantle everything and start again.
I came across a thread (on E46fanatics) that suggested most people don't put the lower boot on properly as they don't line up the tab in the specific gap.
I was very careful to orientate the hose in the correct place. I also changed the location of the jubilee clip. Ended up putting it towards the back facing up as you can see here:
In order to access this I bought a special flexible extension fitted with a 6mm socket. First time I tightened it, the socket got stuck and fell off the end (luckily through the gaps and onto the floor) Decided to gaffer tape it to the end to stop that happening again.
Worked really well in the end and got the hose sited properly. Reinstalled everything else. I found some of this stuff really helped to get the hoses on easily
With the lower intake boot in the correct orientation, everything come together much better. New MAF was installed.
Car started and the idle was perfect. Took it for a drive by the end of which I'd expect it to give the 'Trim Bank' codes. Now all I get is:
Car drives great, pulls very well all the way to the red line. It actually now feels faster than my E36 328.
Anyone else feel the temptation to keep old parts...'just in case'.
Fingers crossed this situation is sorted! Luckily I had my motivational mug to keep me going.
Another thing sorted today.
Ever since I got this car, the parking sensors didn't work. When putting the car into reverse, it'd just do one long beep.
Code reader didn't seem to indicate which sensor(s) was the problem.
Read online about testing the sensors:
- Put the into reverse with the ignition in position 2.
- If working sensors should emit a clicking sound with your ear up against.
On doing this I found that sensor 1&3 didn't work so went about ordering a couple of new ones from eBay.
Luckily to access the sensors on the non Sport coupe is quite straightforward. You just remove the black trim strip (flat blade crew driver to undo the clips) and it pops out.
New eBay specials installed:
When installed, all 4 sensors clicked and there was no long sensor tone when putting into reverse. In fact, there was no tone whatsoever.
Helix402 advised that in fact eBay cheapo sensors don't often work. Taking his advice, bought a couple of second hand OEM BMW items:
Installed:
Success, parking sensors now work fine. Those with OCD will have noticed I now have 2 round sensors and two rectangular ones...but I can live with that
Ever since I got this car, the parking sensors didn't work. When putting the car into reverse, it'd just do one long beep.
Code reader didn't seem to indicate which sensor(s) was the problem.
Read online about testing the sensors:
- Put the into reverse with the ignition in position 2.
- If working sensors should emit a clicking sound with your ear up against.
On doing this I found that sensor 1&3 didn't work so went about ordering a couple of new ones from eBay.
Luckily to access the sensors on the non Sport coupe is quite straightforward. You just remove the black trim strip (flat blade crew driver to undo the clips) and it pops out.
New eBay specials installed:
When installed, all 4 sensors clicked and there was no long sensor tone when putting into reverse. In fact, there was no tone whatsoever.
Helix402 advised that in fact eBay cheapo sensors don't often work. Taking his advice, bought a couple of second hand OEM BMW items:
Installed:
Success, parking sensors now work fine. Those with OCD will have noticed I now have 2 round sensors and two rectangular ones...but I can live with that
Edited by g3org3y on Thursday 23 January 13:23
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