2001 Jaguar XJ8 Project
Discussion
I thought I would share this car as my other thread for my Mk1 Mx5 has slowed a little, and this car is now getting a little attention.
My intention was never to do any work on this car, as it was meant to be a short term acquisition. I bought this with the intention of using it in the run up to my wedding, and as a honeymoon car to swan around in, then sell. I got married in September last year, and then I was going to put it up for sale.
I put this off until November so I could get a slightly saggy headliner sorted, and then again put off selling as Christmas is a terrible time to sell cars! I then almost got around to trying to seriously sell it, and then the world stopped... Even when some manner of normal has returned (whatever that may look like), I suspect the market for fairly expensive 4.0 Jags will be small. So I decided the only thing to do would be to bring it right up to standard over the summer!
So on to the car. I bought it as it was one of the cleanest I had seen, and being a late model avoided many of the issues that earlier cars can suffer with. Though very clean, I did need to spend a little on it straight away, but was expecting this so wasn't too surprised; the AC didn't work, and though the seller assured me that in 99% of cases a mere re-gas is required, somehow I wasn't entirely shocked to find it actually needed a new condenser!
This all done, it has driven well and not let me down at all. So here are a few inexpert pictures:
20200506_154739 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
20200506_162456 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
20200506_164246 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
It is generally in really nice condition inside and out. There are a few blemishes, but not much at all. In all, these XJs are still very cheap I think. I did look at similar age BMW 7 series as an alternative as I have previously had a number of Jags and fancied a change (and E38s look great) but they commanded much more money and seemed just as rust prone!
IMG_20191001_132044 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
IMG_20191001_132031 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The following are somewhat sad pictures (at least in the opinion of my wife!), but illustrate how clean this car is.
IMG_20191001_130535 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And the saddest pic yet:
IMG_20191002_113834 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
This isn't up to date on where I am with the car yet, but will do for a first post. Hopefully of interest to some at least.
My intention was never to do any work on this car, as it was meant to be a short term acquisition. I bought this with the intention of using it in the run up to my wedding, and as a honeymoon car to swan around in, then sell. I got married in September last year, and then I was going to put it up for sale.
I put this off until November so I could get a slightly saggy headliner sorted, and then again put off selling as Christmas is a terrible time to sell cars! I then almost got around to trying to seriously sell it, and then the world stopped... Even when some manner of normal has returned (whatever that may look like), I suspect the market for fairly expensive 4.0 Jags will be small. So I decided the only thing to do would be to bring it right up to standard over the summer!
So on to the car. I bought it as it was one of the cleanest I had seen, and being a late model avoided many of the issues that earlier cars can suffer with. Though very clean, I did need to spend a little on it straight away, but was expecting this so wasn't too surprised; the AC didn't work, and though the seller assured me that in 99% of cases a mere re-gas is required, somehow I wasn't entirely shocked to find it actually needed a new condenser!
This all done, it has driven well and not let me down at all. So here are a few inexpert pictures:
20200506_154739 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr20200506_162456 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr20200506_164246 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIt is generally in really nice condition inside and out. There are a few blemishes, but not much at all. In all, these XJs are still very cheap I think. I did look at similar age BMW 7 series as an alternative as I have previously had a number of Jags and fancied a change (and E38s look great) but they commanded much more money and seemed just as rust prone!
IMG_20191001_132044 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIMG_20191001_132031 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThe following are somewhat sad pictures (at least in the opinion of my wife!), but illustrate how clean this car is.
IMG_20191001_130535 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd the saddest pic yet:
IMG_20191002_113834 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThis isn't up to date on where I am with the car yet, but will do for a first post. Hopefully of interest to some at least.
A little bit more about the car.
I bought it on about 57000 miles, but in the last 6 or so years it had only done a maximum of 1000 miles annually. Given that quite often cars don't appreciate such low usage I was expecting a few issues to surface. But aside from the AC which I was expecting, it wasn't bad at all.
Despite have Pirelli tyres all round with a decent amount of tread, I had to put new tyres on all round as age was catching up to them and they were beginning to perish. On the advice of a trusted Jag specialist, I didn't put Pirellis back on as he said in his experience they suffered from weak sidewalls and it wasn't unheard of for them to go 'out of round'. So it has Yokohamas on it now.
The only other thing apart from a good service was rear shock bushes, which are very common failure points on these.
I bought it on about 57000 miles, but in the last 6 or so years it had only done a maximum of 1000 miles annually. Given that quite often cars don't appreciate such low usage I was expecting a few issues to surface. But aside from the AC which I was expecting, it wasn't bad at all.
Despite have Pirelli tyres all round with a decent amount of tread, I had to put new tyres on all round as age was catching up to them and they were beginning to perish. On the advice of a trusted Jag specialist, I didn't put Pirellis back on as he said in his experience they suffered from weak sidewalls and it wasn't unheard of for them to go 'out of round'. So it has Yokohamas on it now.
The only other thing apart from a good service was rear shock bushes, which are very common failure points on these.
Welsh Pirate said:
That looks like a really nice example, especially the interior which looks in mint condition!
How's the corrosion underneath on it? I understand that the sills can be an issue?
I hope you continue to enjoy it and please keep us updated!
Thanks, it is a very nice place to be, particularly on long journeys. How's the corrosion underneath on it? I understand that the sills can be an issue?
I hope you continue to enjoy it and please keep us updated!
In terms of corrosion, these can be quite bad. Anecdotally no worse than other cars it's age (thinking of the 7 series I looked at), but they do have a bit of a reputation.
My car has a fair bit of surface rust underneath (this plays into the 'project' part of the thread title!), but the only rot was the driver's side front inner sill. More on that shortly...
Edited by Lewis's Friend on Thursday 7th May 14:21
Starting to bring this thread up to date… As alluded to earlier, the little brownish stains on the sills had not gone unnoticed, and I had thought this might be where I bring my new welder to its first practical job. However, when I finally got the car up in the air, I found that the inner sill was further gone than I had realised and was way beyond my very meagre welding skills.
20200416_161446 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And on the inner side:
20200416_161436 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Delightful. Wisely I think, I decided to leave this to the professionals… This is the only rot on the car, though as can be seen there is surface rust to be dealt with. But holes need to be filled properly first, with metal rather than mastic (as was found in there somewhere, along with two self-tappers, from a previous ‘repair’).
I therefore left the car with said professionals, and they were good enough to take some photos throughout the repair.
IMG_9979 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
IMG_9989 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
They were so impressed with the previous repair in this area they kept the random assortment of materials they cut out to show me. It was truly rubbish!
IMG_9992 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
IMG_9990 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
IMG_9993 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
IMG_9995 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
IMG-20200505-WA0000 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Paint still required at this point, but a nice repair. Happily the other side once cleaned back was solid, so merely needed stonechip put back on it.
So now I have a solid car (that I have now been over underneath with a fine comb) and it is all solid, and it’s ready to embark on stage two of rust prevention. My aim with this car is now to take what is a very nice example and deal with the few bits that are lacking to make it perfect (or almost – its still going to be used and I’m not going for concours at all!). I think it should end up as one of the best out there, if only because they aren’t classic enough yet for most to be bothered with; hence many mouldering shed examples. That may be unrealistic, but I suppose we’ll see!
20200416_161446 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd on the inner side:
20200416_161436 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrDelightful. Wisely I think, I decided to leave this to the professionals… This is the only rot on the car, though as can be seen there is surface rust to be dealt with. But holes need to be filled properly first, with metal rather than mastic (as was found in there somewhere, along with two self-tappers, from a previous ‘repair’).
I therefore left the car with said professionals, and they were good enough to take some photos throughout the repair.
IMG_9979 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIMG_9989 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThey were so impressed with the previous repair in this area they kept the random assortment of materials they cut out to show me. It was truly rubbish!
IMG_9992 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIMG_9990 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIMG_9993 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIMG_9995 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIMG-20200505-WA0000 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrPaint still required at this point, but a nice repair. Happily the other side once cleaned back was solid, so merely needed stonechip put back on it.
So now I have a solid car (that I have now been over underneath with a fine comb) and it is all solid, and it’s ready to embark on stage two of rust prevention. My aim with this car is now to take what is a very nice example and deal with the few bits that are lacking to make it perfect (or almost – its still going to be used and I’m not going for concours at all!). I think it should end up as one of the best out there, if only because they aren’t classic enough yet for most to be bothered with; hence many mouldering shed examples. That may be unrealistic, but I suppose we’ll see!
Paul S4 said:
Really nice car and a good read.
A friend is into his Jags, and has a similar year 3L V6 (?) diesel also in silver ( IMO that is the best colour!)
His had a few miles on it when he bought it, but he uses a local Jag indy to keep it running, using S/H parts where possible. I think he had a few issues with the air suspension but that was sorted.
He regularly takes it down to SW France ( in normal times ) and gets quite amazing mpg for such a big car.
IIRC his is an aluminium one (?) but not well up on these cars.....!!
They are beautiful cars and modern Jags just don't have the appeal.
Keep the photos etc and updates.
Cheers for that.A friend is into his Jags, and has a similar year 3L V6 (?) diesel also in silver ( IMO that is the best colour!)
His had a few miles on it when he bought it, but he uses a local Jag indy to keep it running, using S/H parts where possible. I think he had a few issues with the air suspension but that was sorted.
He regularly takes it down to SW France ( in normal times ) and gets quite amazing mpg for such a big car.
IIRC his is an aluminium one (?) but not well up on these cars.....!!
They are beautiful cars and modern Jags just don't have the appeal.
Keep the photos etc and updates.
Your friends model would be the one later than this (X350) which was aluminium bodied. I had one for a couple of years a while ago also in 3.0 flavour but petrol. I loved that car! It was a Sovereign so came with many toys (I think all it missed was rear TVs and a cooler in the rear arm rest). The air suspension was fine, and I bought it on 108000 and too it up to 130000 miles. All it needed in that time was a clockspring in the steering wheel and a new radiator as the old started weeping. That said, air shocks were a fortune if they went (though that was fairly rare)...
Jaguar steve said:
The XJ 308s are great cars.
I'm on my second one and I haven't even the slightest clue what to replace it with when it eventually dies.
They are quite old school. The x350 was a much more modern car, though still looked ancient...!I'm on my second one and I haven't even the slightest clue what to replace it with when it eventually dies.
I would definitely consider an x350 as a replacement though. Just don't expect them to be the same as what you have now, but I very much enjoyed it in its own right.
I have been doing a few small jobs on this - just correcting niggles really before I undertake the proper strip down.
This one was the sport mode button that liked to stay illuminated even when sport wasn't engaged. Not a big problem, but while I have time on my side I thought I'd fix it.
This is the offending button (right hand one), with the gear shifter surround already loosened.
20200509_151108 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Disassembly was nice and easy.
20200509_151114 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
20200509_151743 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The button then just releases from the surround, and can be pulled apart. The red LED active light is normally closed, but when the sport button is pressed in (sport deactivated) two little plastic spikes push the contacts apart. Over time, the contact had bent a little so that even with the button depressed the contact was made. Bent the contact back and all is well!
This was a very quick fix, and writing it up has taken longer than the fix itself...!
Buttons lit:
20200509_154315 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And the area cleaned and trim refitted.
20200509_154323 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Not a thriller, but little steps...
This one was the sport mode button that liked to stay illuminated even when sport wasn't engaged. Not a big problem, but while I have time on my side I thought I'd fix it.
This is the offending button (right hand one), with the gear shifter surround already loosened.
20200509_151108 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrDisassembly was nice and easy.
20200509_151114 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr20200509_151743 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThe button then just releases from the surround, and can be pulled apart. The red LED active light is normally closed, but when the sport button is pressed in (sport deactivated) two little plastic spikes push the contacts apart. Over time, the contact had bent a little so that even with the button depressed the contact was made. Bent the contact back and all is well!
This was a very quick fix, and writing it up has taken longer than the fix itself...!
Buttons lit:
20200509_154315 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd the area cleaned and trim refitted.
20200509_154323 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrNot a thriller, but little steps...
Another small update on this project.
Firstly, the sills have been painted and look good. I certainly wouldn’t know any welding had been done, so I’m happy!
20200523_125104 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The next thing to try and fix was a tiny thing, but has annoyed me since I bought the car… On the drivers door, the window winder switch block had been pushed into the door card thus:
20200512_155745 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Most annoying, and as there is now time on my side, I thought I’d fix it. So door card removed, and I found the fix was just that one of the screws fixing the switch block in place had somehow got under the fixing tab such that the screw head was actually spacing it away from where it should have been. Easy fix!
All fixed and door back together.
20200602_101417 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I have also begun the greater work underneath the car. Slow progress but I’ve begun!
20200601_091808 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Firstly, the sills have been painted and look good. I certainly wouldn’t know any welding had been done, so I’m happy!
20200523_125104 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThe next thing to try and fix was a tiny thing, but has annoyed me since I bought the car… On the drivers door, the window winder switch block had been pushed into the door card thus:
20200512_155745 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrMost annoying, and as there is now time on my side, I thought I’d fix it. So door card removed, and I found the fix was just that one of the screws fixing the switch block in place had somehow got under the fixing tab such that the screw head was actually spacing it away from where it should have been. Easy fix!
All fixed and door back together.
20200602_101417 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI have also begun the greater work underneath the car. Slow progress but I’ve begun!
20200601_091808 by Jon Fellows, on Flickrstickleback123 said:
These are such great looking cars, the 4 litre V8 and 5 speed automatic gave them the performance they needed over the rather dated AJ16 so you don't feel at all short changed for performance when you get out of a modern car.
Have you taken a look at the secondary timing chain tensioners, or got anything in the history to suggest they've been changed? Your car is late enough that it won't have the original ones that fall to pieces but I've read that some of the revised versions were problematic too.
Previously I had another 4.0 XJ8 and a friend had a XJR x300 and they felt about the same in a straight line (though not round corners). I preferred mine really! Although post of that was helping him change the throttle body on his car, which remains one of the worst jobs I've ever done on a car!Have you taken a look at the secondary timing chain tensioners, or got anything in the history to suggest they've been changed? Your car is late enough that it won't have the original ones that fall to pieces but I've read that some of the revised versions were problematic too.
In terms of the tensioners, mine should have the later ones fitted as it is a late model. I believe a further revision was done which were better again. It may be something for the future, but so far there is no rattle at start up etc so I don't think it's an issue as yet.
Jaguar steve said:
Here you are.
I took these out of my 2001 XJ8 about 10 years ago and at something like 35k miles from new.
See the tiny crack just starting by the AF lettering on one of the bodies? That's the mechanism of failure, the crack will eventually open up far enough to allow the piston and sleeve inside the body to twist far enough for the chain to catch on the end of the slipper either breaking the chain or allowing the exhaust timing to jump and retard leading to valve/piston contact.
This can happen with the 2 gen tensioners like these without any prior warning rattle.
Thanks for all that good information. Looks like another job to add to the list!I took these out of my 2001 XJ8 about 10 years ago and at something like 35k miles from new.
See the tiny crack just starting by the AF lettering on one of the bodies? That's the mechanism of failure, the crack will eventually open up far enough to allow the piston and sleeve inside the body to twist far enough for the chain to catch on the end of the slipper either breaking the chain or allowing the exhaust timing to jump and retard leading to valve/piston contact.
This can happen with the 2 gen tensioners like these without any prior warning rattle.
This is such a nice car, I want to keep it as good as possible; the downside of that being trying to sell it for a reasonable price when you can still pick them up for shed money (albeit proper grotty horrors!)... Ah well, have to keep it then!
Cheers for all the nice comments. It is a lovely car, and particularly great for long distance.
I would love to think these are about to skyrocket in value, but I'm not relying on that. I would say good ones are gradually increasing in value (pre-pandemic anyway; who knows what happens now?).
Rust treatment aside, much of the work I'm about to do isn't really needed. The car drives and works fine, but this should get it to the next level and also satisfies my need to tinker with something!
I would love to think these are about to skyrocket in value, but I'm not relying on that. I would say good ones are gradually increasing in value (pre-pandemic anyway; who knows what happens now?).
Rust treatment aside, much of the work I'm about to do isn't really needed. The car drives and works fine, but this should get it to the next level and also satisfies my need to tinker with something!
Jaguar steve said:
Thing is 'tho absolutely nothing else in the Jaguar range appeals so I have no idea what I'd replace it with.
I've owned a fair few jags now, but I'm not really a jag fanboy (though I do like them of course). However, when I look at buying another car nothing else seems to offer the value and experience combined. As I said previously, I looked at e38 7 series and I very much like them, particularly later ones, but for the same money I was looking at shabby rotters with rust on every panel!
So everytime I look to move away from a jag, it never works!
It's an interesting one - what more modern cars have that kind of ride quality? Having not driven many, I couldn't really say but by all accounts a lot of more modern cars are quite stiffly sprung and with the larger alloys.
Are there any moderately priced cars that put comfort over sportiness? As for my daily I like comfort! The Mx5 is for rattling my teeth.
Are there any moderately priced cars that put comfort over sportiness? As for my daily I like comfort! The Mx5 is for rattling my teeth.
Jaguar steve said:
There's very little difference in comfort and ride quality between my daily Skoda Roomster and my XJ8 however I prefer the cloth seats in the Skoda over the slippery leather ones in the XJ as they're more secure and supportive and the Skoda also copes a little better with badly rutted and potholed road surfaces than the XJ does.
French cars always do comfort particularly well and if you've ever driven anything stiffly sprung on rural French D roads you'll know why that is so.
I've had several Citroen and Renault cars and vans as daily drivers and would say they've all either matched or bettered the ride quality and comfort of all the Jaguars I've owned at the same time but my vote for the best car I've ever experienced has to go to the Peugeot 508 our village taxi lady drives.
Her Space Shuttle mileage Pug rides beautifully and is superbly comfortable and absolutely beats the pants off any Jaguar I've ever been in or driven.
That's interesting - my only french car was a Clio 172 which probably isn't the best comparison.French cars always do comfort particularly well and if you've ever driven anything stiffly sprung on rural French D roads you'll know why that is so.
I've had several Citroen and Renault cars and vans as daily drivers and would say they've all either matched or bettered the ride quality and comfort of all the Jaguars I've owned at the same time but my vote for the best car I've ever experienced has to go to the Peugeot 508 our village taxi lady drives.
Her Space Shuttle mileage Pug rides beautifully and is superbly comfortable and absolutely beats the pants off any Jaguar I've ever been in or driven.
Every so often I find myself looking at Citroen C6s, much to the mockery of those around me!
Jaguar steve said:
Get a good one and tale care of it and they're actually pretty reliable. Although the VED is comparatively high 26-28 MPG and zero depreciation isn't really that ruinous in the overall scheme of things but I mitigate the cost of running my XJ by doing all my own servicing and maintenance and only taxing it through the summer months because I also have a cheap diesel shed for most of my annual miles that's also virtually zero depreciation and that'll nudge 70MPG with a bit of care and costs buttons to tax and insure.
Back of a fag packet maths says if you're doing 20k miles or more like I do each year and buy the right ones running two cars works out overall cheaper than one. It's a win win
I would agree. Using one as your only car if you do a lot of miles could be ruinous, but as a second car or if you don't need to drive much the fuel isn't much of an issue. Back of a fag packet maths says if you're doing 20k miles or more like I do each year and buy the right ones running two cars works out overall cheaper than one. It's a win win
A good one as said are pretty reliable. I've spent some on this car, but the only thing that was necessary was rear shock bushes. Everything else had been because I'm a tart! And they shouldn't lose money (though I'm not sure I'm optimistic enough to say they'll make money)...
After some messing about, I have finally begun the rust treatment/bush refresh work that I have been planning for a little while. I'm starting with the front end, so was working out how I could drop the front subframe safely on my driveway. I ended up deciding I needed and engine beam to take the engines weight while the subframe was removed, but then something to support the engine's weight from underneath so I could remove the beam again so enabling me to close the bonnet.
I ended up deciding to take the weight from the engine mount brackets, as these are clearly designed to take the load. However, no axle strands in my possession get anywhere near high enough, so the first thing to do was modify a set. A little metal purchace and I made these:
20200616_102541 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
These are actually taller than I needed and haven't been cut to size in this photo. I wouldn't get under a car being held up by them, but a pair taking the weight of the front of an engine is fine.
I then made sure every bolt holding the subframe on was loose (and bought a couple of 29mm sockets to help - why 29mm!?), and removed the steering rack. The UJ did not want to come of the rack's spline but eventually it gave wa (though incidentally, the UJ needs replacing - anyone know where they can be bought as it seems you have to buy the whole lower steering column which seems daft).
Yesterday was the big day, and first the engine beam went on.
20200623_091431 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I then unbolted the engine mounts from the subframe and, using a complex system involving three jacks, I supported the subframe weight.
20200623_093905 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I then unbolted the top V-mounts (rubber mounts between the subframe and chassis legs) but kept the rear large bolts in so the whole assembly would swing downwards.
Mid lowering:
20200623_093855 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I then used my big jack to support the centre of the subframe, removed the large rear bolts and brought the whole lot down (not crashing down, just down).
20200623_094845 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I could then drag the assembly out in one go.
20200623_100035 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
I then had to drill my axle stand shafts to suit and put them in place supporting the engine, so I could remove the engine beam and close the bonnet.
All in place:
20200623_122244 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
20200623_122259 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
It all went suprisingly well, and I was done by lunch! I'd taken the day off of work for the great project, so I finished up by cutting the front garden hedge too!
I ended up deciding to take the weight from the engine mount brackets, as these are clearly designed to take the load. However, no axle strands in my possession get anywhere near high enough, so the first thing to do was modify a set. A little metal purchace and I made these:
20200616_102541 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThese are actually taller than I needed and haven't been cut to size in this photo. I wouldn't get under a car being held up by them, but a pair taking the weight of the front of an engine is fine.
I then made sure every bolt holding the subframe on was loose (and bought a couple of 29mm sockets to help - why 29mm!?), and removed the steering rack. The UJ did not want to come of the rack's spline but eventually it gave wa (though incidentally, the UJ needs replacing - anyone know where they can be bought as it seems you have to buy the whole lower steering column which seems daft).
Yesterday was the big day, and first the engine beam went on.
20200623_091431 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI then unbolted the engine mounts from the subframe and, using a complex system involving three jacks, I supported the subframe weight.
20200623_093905 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI then unbolted the top V-mounts (rubber mounts between the subframe and chassis legs) but kept the rear large bolts in so the whole assembly would swing downwards.
Mid lowering:
20200623_093855 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI then used my big jack to support the centre of the subframe, removed the large rear bolts and brought the whole lot down (not crashing down, just down).
20200623_094845 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI could then drag the assembly out in one go.
20200623_100035 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrI then had to drill my axle stand shafts to suit and put them in place supporting the engine, so I could remove the engine beam and close the bonnet.
All in place:
20200623_122244 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr20200623_122259 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrIt all went suprisingly well, and I was done by lunch! I'd taken the day off of work for the great project, so I finished up by cutting the front garden hedge too!
The next thing to try and get done was the spring removal. This promised to be a pain, as I find these springs vaguely terrifying to work on and having looked on various forums about how people have got these springs off at home I decided to leave it to the professionals. Normal spring compressors are difficult to fit, and are also normally too short to allow the spring to be safely decompressed after removal.
I therefore asked the local Jag specialist if they could do the job while I waited if I brought the subframe assembly round to them. They agreed, so when the time came I phoned to see when they were free and so try and arrange for a friend with a ute to come and grab it for me. However, on phoning the garage they ended up just lending me the proper Jaguar spring compressor and then refused to accept any money for the loan. I was naturally highly delighted, and they will definitely be getting any business that I have coming up.
So, spring compressor installed and ready to go
20200623_153752 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
And springs safely off the subframe. Much relief!
20200623_160310 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
The rest of the strip down will commence soon...
I therefore asked the local Jag specialist if they could do the job while I waited if I brought the subframe assembly round to them. They agreed, so when the time came I phoned to see when they were free and so try and arrange for a friend with a ute to come and grab it for me. However, on phoning the garage they ended up just lending me the proper Jaguar spring compressor and then refused to accept any money for the loan. I was naturally highly delighted, and they will definitely be getting any business that I have coming up.
So, spring compressor installed and ready to go
20200623_153752 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrAnd springs safely off the subframe. Much relief!
20200623_160310 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrThe rest of the strip down will commence soon...
mercedeslimos said:
When I was younger I always wondered why manufacturers had their own spring compressors. Until I took a set out of my diesel Passat with my biggest and strongest compressors. Got to the very end of the compressor and the spring still had 6" in it. Nobody was hurt but I was glad that a set of coilovers was going in and that I didn't have to try to get those back on the strut!
They must be about 30" tall
They are quite a size! I was definitely pleased to be using something well made and not ropey for the job. They must be about 30" tall
Some of the home brew methods I've seen online for removing and more particularly refitting the springs make me cringe...!
A very small update, but just to show some progress is being made.
Having dropped the subframe assembly, the next stage was to remove all the suspension from it. This went pretty smoothly and only required one bolt to be cut (happily not the £100 one!).
So now I have a pile of bits which need bushes and ball joints pressing out (which I have no doubt will not go as smoothly)...
20200629_115956 by Jon Fellows, on Flickr
Having dropped the subframe assembly, the next stage was to remove all the suspension from it. This went pretty smoothly and only required one bolt to be cut (happily not the £100 one!).
So now I have a pile of bits which need bushes and ball joints pressing out (which I have no doubt will not go as smoothly)...
20200629_115956 by Jon Fellows, on FlickrGassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff