2006 Mazda MX-5 NC 2.0 Sport
Discussion
I sold the Porsche and shopped for a Mazda?! The reason was simple: we're buying a house next year. I didn't want something that was expensive to run whilst saving for a deposit. The difference with keeping or selling was a two bed house or a three bed with a garage. We both benefit from that, so it had to go.
Bye Beefy:
And truth be told, I miss having a small Japanese car. The car I owned before the Boxster S was a Toyota Celica T-Sport, and I regret selling it. Reliable, cheap, fun on the road. I've also wanted a car that I can get onto the track with, and start to build a fast road/track car. So I went shopping for a two-seater Japanese sports car, rear wheel drive for around £3,000.
It had to be the MX-5. I've never been a fan of the NA and NB cars (expecting a slap), and always had a soft spot for the NC. Plus with the rust issues of the NA and NB cars, for the money I was going to spend it was a no brainer. I had driven an NC about four years ago, a year after I bought the Boxster S and instantly thought I'd made a mistake in buying it after I drove an MX-5. I still remember what it drove like and wanted one since.
The criteria for my search was:
- Not silver (just a preference)
- NC 2.0 Sport
- No retractable hard top (harder to fit a roll bar for the track)
- As little rust as possible
- Around £3,000
Cars of this price had around 90,000 miles. I didn't mind mileage, but soon realised that mileage on the 5's had quite a correspondance with rust. I saw one the day before yesterday that had around 100,000 miles, and I managed to put my hand through the sill. Not good. That made me nervous with finding one for around £3,000.
But yesterday I bought one!
That's my dad eyeing up my purchase. He's been an absolute star and has always been with me to buy my previous cars.
It's a 2006 MX-5 NC 2.0 Sport in Black. It's got good and bad points, but the good outweigh the bad monumentally.
I'll start with the good:
And now for the bad.
First thing first, I had to fix the high suspension at the front:
I saw this when viewing the car. I also saw that in September last year the car was treated to four brand new Sachs shocks. Putting 2 and 2 together here, I'd imagine the suspension wasn't pre-loaded whilst tightening the bolts. I was a little worried about it sitting at this height for almost a year, putting stress on the wishbone bushes, but it all turned out fine.
I jacked the car up, removed the wheels, and loosened both wishbone bolts and the bottom shock bolt. Then jacked the ball joint up until the car lifted off the axle stands and was under normal load. At this point, I tightened the bolts, replaced the wheels and lowered the car.
Before:
After:
Far better. A lot less stress on the wishbone bushes too. I gave them a quick inspection and they 'looked' fine.
A few snaps of the car in its current state:
The leather is unmarked, which was a lovely sight to see.
Good to see genuine mats in here.
So in short, the car has a lot going for it, but I need to spend a weekend restoring it to its former glory with a full 2-stage paint correction and an interior detail.
Here's the worst parts of the car:
That's from the boot rack. It's scuffed the paint, and will need machining (as will the rest of the body).
Rear discs aren't that great.
This is the only mark in the whole interior, including the scratch-prone piano black dashboard (which is remarkably unmarked). I'll see if I can rub this back and spray it, failing that it'll be a second hand one off ebay.
Mould. The roof is in need of a deep clean (but is in great condition).
That may well be a fail on the MOT as the passenger seatbelt doesn't retract when loose. If someone's sitting in the chair, it retracts fine and holds the passenger, but any less than that and it just sits there. I'll see if I can grease the belt mechanism.
I do like the sight of a dusty engine when buying a car, as (to me) it shows it hasn't been fiddled with.
However...
An odd yellow cable. Tracing this back, I've found the source.
A Kenwood subwoofer. It doesn't even work. And what's worse, they've cut the cubby holder out to put this in (which was given to me).
It also has this daft little remote:
It doesn't work at all, so I'll be removing this asap and finding out why the radio has a constant hiss. Most likely the head unit is amplifying the signal, as well as the Bose amp, but I've not worked on an MX-5 ICE yet. However, the fact that the previous owner has already run an iPhone cable helps me a bit. I'll be removing this and will fit a USB port into the hole that they've drilled to neaten things up a little.
The previous owner gave me a box of goodies though:
This includes the cut-off cubby holder (which I may glue back after the removal of the sub woofer), the original Bose head unit, the original cup holders (replaced with a large cubby holder area instead), the Pioneer head unit fittings, a belt seat fixing (not sure why this is here), lots of service history and the original manuals.
Which leads us to now. Aside from the suspension fix, I haven't done anything to the car yet. I haven't even washed it (for me that's quite surprising). What I did do though, is drive it.
What a car. How does it compare to the Boxster S? Well, the S was exceptionally capable. The flat-6 was responsive and pulled like a train, and there was no knocking how the car handled. But for me, I felt a bit disconnected. It could well have been my confidence with the car. I never felt like I was controlling the car, but rather making inputs whilst the car was driving me. It felt quite heavy and I never pushed the car to its limit. This was a problem in itself though, as it did 72mph in second gear.
The main thing with the two cars is that, I can use more of what the MX-5 is built for, than what the Boxster was built for. You have to be doing something illegal to have a thrill in the Boxster, but the 5 is fun in every sense of the word. Driving the two back to back, I actually prefer the Mazda, and if I had realised this car was up for sale whilst I still had the Boxster (and had driven it), I would have sold the Porsche for it. It's that good. If you haven't driven one yet, go and do it.
I've been on the track a few times, several in a Formula Ford single seater in Silverstone. This is what the MX-5 reminds me of. Beautiful low driving position, gearstick shaking under your hand with the transmission vibrations traveling through it, lots of feedback through the wheel, and a perfect weight balance making you feel like you're sitting dead center in the pivot point of the car. I felt I could put the car exactly where I wanted it to be, something which I felt I couldn't do with the Boxster.
So it's cheap, reliable and is a dream to drive, even compared to the likes of cars far more capable than this. I've driven a lot of cars, and this is up there with one of the sweetest handling cars, if not the best. The future plans are to tighten up the suspension with lowered springs to start and coilover suspension in the future, uprated brakes, air filter, light weight wheels, and one or two little bits and bobs, whilst keeping it comfortable on the road and sticking to Mazda's ethos. Think 911 GT3 compared to a standard 911. Once I start getting on the track, I'll start implementing a roll bar and/or better seats, but again this won't be anything that compromises its day to day use.
I've already got a to-do list for this car, but at the moment it's mainly to get it back to standard condition and to tidy up its in-car entertainment. I'm going to enjoy it standard for what it is for a while, and see why everyone else in the world loves the MX-5. I'm already starting to see why.
More to follow.
Bye Beefy:
And truth be told, I miss having a small Japanese car. The car I owned before the Boxster S was a Toyota Celica T-Sport, and I regret selling it. Reliable, cheap, fun on the road. I've also wanted a car that I can get onto the track with, and start to build a fast road/track car. So I went shopping for a two-seater Japanese sports car, rear wheel drive for around £3,000.
It had to be the MX-5. I've never been a fan of the NA and NB cars (expecting a slap), and always had a soft spot for the NC. Plus with the rust issues of the NA and NB cars, for the money I was going to spend it was a no brainer. I had driven an NC about four years ago, a year after I bought the Boxster S and instantly thought I'd made a mistake in buying it after I drove an MX-5. I still remember what it drove like and wanted one since.
The criteria for my search was:
- Not silver (just a preference)
- NC 2.0 Sport
- No retractable hard top (harder to fit a roll bar for the track)
- As little rust as possible
- Around £3,000
Cars of this price had around 90,000 miles. I didn't mind mileage, but soon realised that mileage on the 5's had quite a correspondance with rust. I saw one the day before yesterday that had around 100,000 miles, and I managed to put my hand through the sill. Not good. That made me nervous with finding one for around £3,000.
But yesterday I bought one!
That's my dad eyeing up my purchase. He's been an absolute star and has always been with me to buy my previous cars.
It's a 2006 MX-5 NC 2.0 Sport in Black. It's got good and bad points, but the good outweigh the bad monumentally.
I'll start with the good:
- No (serious) rust. It's got some subframe surface corrosion, not even enough to be an advisory on an MOT. But that's it. There's no mention of rust on the MOT's, and the only thing its failed on are tyres, brake pads, and a shock absorber. The sills are absolutely solid for two reasons. The first is that the owner regularly ensured the water runs were clean with a trombone cleaner. The second is the next good point:
- It's only on 43,000 miles! I was surprised at the mileage, but the MOT history checks out.
- New shock absorbers all round. This isn't just good because it has fresh suspension, it's good because it's not the Bilstein shocks that come with the Sport model. It's got Sachs shocks. That's good as I want to eventually get rid of the 4x4 look with some lowering springs (to start, coilovers later), but lowering the Bilstein shocks on the Sport model has proven troublesome from my research with a numb feeling ride. The fact it's a Sport with Sachs shocks means I get the benefit of a Sport (6-speed gearbox, heated leather seats, Bose, etc) but with suspension I can lower cost effectively.
- It's been looked after mechanically. A lot of service history with some nice products used, from Micheline tyres to Bosche wipers. That's a small thing I know, but it says a lot about an owner who doesn't hold back on looking after a car mechanically.
- Bose system, but with an upgraded £350 head unit to include Apple CarPlay.
- It was £3,500. Originally £3,800, but the seller and I agreed a price. A lovely guy who still wanted something fun, but a little higher to get in and out of.
And now for the bad.
- Paint work is horrible condition, but nothing a machine polish couldn't do. It's unloved, but well used. It also has scratches from a previous boot rack. Luckily there's no deep scratches anywhere, but the paintwork has clearly been neglected. There's swirl marks, scuff marks, matted paint, etc. It needs a 2-stage correction. The headlights and exhaust are also in need of wet sanding. Here's a walk around of the car showing how bad the paint is: https://youtu.be/iU82VXktGzY
- Rear discs aren't in great condition. These may be an advisory on the MOT in January.
- Whilst the head unit is good, one of the previous owners hasn't wired it in correctly. The rear speakers between the seats are almost silent, and there's a constant hiss.
- It has a subwoofer, which is pointless, and doesn't work.
- The suspension is very, very high at the front.
- Chrome indicator bulbs at the front. They look great when off, but barely light up, so these need to go
First thing first, I had to fix the high suspension at the front:
I saw this when viewing the car. I also saw that in September last year the car was treated to four brand new Sachs shocks. Putting 2 and 2 together here, I'd imagine the suspension wasn't pre-loaded whilst tightening the bolts. I was a little worried about it sitting at this height for almost a year, putting stress on the wishbone bushes, but it all turned out fine.
I jacked the car up, removed the wheels, and loosened both wishbone bolts and the bottom shock bolt. Then jacked the ball joint up until the car lifted off the axle stands and was under normal load. At this point, I tightened the bolts, replaced the wheels and lowered the car.
Before:
After:
Far better. A lot less stress on the wishbone bushes too. I gave them a quick inspection and they 'looked' fine.
A few snaps of the car in its current state:
The leather is unmarked, which was a lovely sight to see.
Good to see genuine mats in here.
So in short, the car has a lot going for it, but I need to spend a weekend restoring it to its former glory with a full 2-stage paint correction and an interior detail.
Here's the worst parts of the car:
That's from the boot rack. It's scuffed the paint, and will need machining (as will the rest of the body).
Rear discs aren't that great.
This is the only mark in the whole interior, including the scratch-prone piano black dashboard (which is remarkably unmarked). I'll see if I can rub this back and spray it, failing that it'll be a second hand one off ebay.
Mould. The roof is in need of a deep clean (but is in great condition).
That may well be a fail on the MOT as the passenger seatbelt doesn't retract when loose. If someone's sitting in the chair, it retracts fine and holds the passenger, but any less than that and it just sits there. I'll see if I can grease the belt mechanism.
I do like the sight of a dusty engine when buying a car, as (to me) it shows it hasn't been fiddled with.
However...
An odd yellow cable. Tracing this back, I've found the source.
A Kenwood subwoofer. It doesn't even work. And what's worse, they've cut the cubby holder out to put this in (which was given to me).
It also has this daft little remote:
It doesn't work at all, so I'll be removing this asap and finding out why the radio has a constant hiss. Most likely the head unit is amplifying the signal, as well as the Bose amp, but I've not worked on an MX-5 ICE yet. However, the fact that the previous owner has already run an iPhone cable helps me a bit. I'll be removing this and will fit a USB port into the hole that they've drilled to neaten things up a little.
The previous owner gave me a box of goodies though:
This includes the cut-off cubby holder (which I may glue back after the removal of the sub woofer), the original Bose head unit, the original cup holders (replaced with a large cubby holder area instead), the Pioneer head unit fittings, a belt seat fixing (not sure why this is here), lots of service history and the original manuals.
Which leads us to now. Aside from the suspension fix, I haven't done anything to the car yet. I haven't even washed it (for me that's quite surprising). What I did do though, is drive it.
What a car. How does it compare to the Boxster S? Well, the S was exceptionally capable. The flat-6 was responsive and pulled like a train, and there was no knocking how the car handled. But for me, I felt a bit disconnected. It could well have been my confidence with the car. I never felt like I was controlling the car, but rather making inputs whilst the car was driving me. It felt quite heavy and I never pushed the car to its limit. This was a problem in itself though, as it did 72mph in second gear.
The main thing with the two cars is that, I can use more of what the MX-5 is built for, than what the Boxster was built for. You have to be doing something illegal to have a thrill in the Boxster, but the 5 is fun in every sense of the word. Driving the two back to back, I actually prefer the Mazda, and if I had realised this car was up for sale whilst I still had the Boxster (and had driven it), I would have sold the Porsche for it. It's that good. If you haven't driven one yet, go and do it.
I've been on the track a few times, several in a Formula Ford single seater in Silverstone. This is what the MX-5 reminds me of. Beautiful low driving position, gearstick shaking under your hand with the transmission vibrations traveling through it, lots of feedback through the wheel, and a perfect weight balance making you feel like you're sitting dead center in the pivot point of the car. I felt I could put the car exactly where I wanted it to be, something which I felt I couldn't do with the Boxster.
So it's cheap, reliable and is a dream to drive, even compared to the likes of cars far more capable than this. I've driven a lot of cars, and this is up there with one of the sweetest handling cars, if not the best. The future plans are to tighten up the suspension with lowered springs to start and coilover suspension in the future, uprated brakes, air filter, light weight wheels, and one or two little bits and bobs, whilst keeping it comfortable on the road and sticking to Mazda's ethos. Think 911 GT3 compared to a standard 911. Once I start getting on the track, I'll start implementing a roll bar and/or better seats, but again this won't be anything that compromises its day to day use.
I've already got a to-do list for this car, but at the moment it's mainly to get it back to standard condition and to tidy up its in-car entertainment. I'm going to enjoy it standard for what it is for a while, and see why everyone else in the world loves the MX-5. I'm already starting to see why.
More to follow.
Edited by geraintthomas on Monday 17th August 23:31
Edited by geraintthomas on Monday 17th August 23:32
Edited by geraintthomas on Monday 17th August 23:50
TheDukeGTi said:
Nice, if this goes anything like your Boxster did, it'll be the cleanest out there soon.
I originally thought "I don't mind if it's got a few dings and marks as it'll be a track car", but I'm getting quite precious over it. I think I'll do it up like the Boxster first, then start to improve it for the track. Pretty much as I did with my previous Celica.Accelebrate said:
Looks great! They’re such great value. I think you’ve bought well.
Is the rear disc cracked near the hub? Luckily rear discs are very reasonably pricey. I’d clean and grease the slider pins whilst you’re there too.
The seatbelts shouldn’t fail an MOT, cleaning them with soapy water and a brush and leaving them fully extended to dry seems to help.
Thanks! Ah I see how you've thought that, it's actually a lip that's casting a shadow. Not great either way. The front discs look like MTEC discs, so I may put the same on the rear, or just replace all four to get fresh new brakes on the go. Reading your thread and the troubles you had with your calipers reminded me of my Celica, and it's been a while since I had a sporty car with floating calipers so I'll definitely be keeping an eye on the pins.Is the rear disc cracked near the hub? Luckily rear discs are very reasonably pricey. I’d clean and grease the slider pins whilst you’re there too.
The seatbelts shouldn’t fail an MOT, cleaning them with soapy water and a brush and leaving them fully extended to dry seems to help.
Great tip with the seat belt, I'll add that to my to-do list.
Bowen86 said:
After your Porsche and Focus threads, I am looking forward to this.
Looks like an honest example and as you say the good far out ways the bad.
Absolutely. It's nothing I can't fix, as the main thing was that it didn't have any rust. That and a smooth engine sealed the deal really.Looks like an honest example and as you say the good far out ways the bad.
Rsdop said:
Looks great! I wouldn’t worry about the seatbelts, mines the same and the seller put it through an MOT pre sale and not an issue. I wonder if it’s to do with the mileage and lack of use as mines only done 34k and does seem to be improving with use. Agree about how good they are to drive, mines on the standard Bilsteins at the moment and it’s a bit wobbly on entry but you can tell it has an amazing chassis. Coilovers going on as soon as MeisterR get some stock in!
Got real lucky with mine, wasn’t even advertised for sale. Massive history, one owner until 2018 and second owner who I bought it from. And no rust!
Great to know about the seatbelts in that case. I think the only thing may be the discs when it comes to the MOT. I'm hoping they fail as it'll give me an excuse to buy some tasty new brakes all round.Got real lucky with mine, wasn’t even advertised for sale. Massive history, one owner until 2018 and second owner who I bought it from. And no rust!
34k? That's outstanding, and I love the colour so looks like you've bought a cracker there. It's interesting to hear peoples thoughts on the Bilsteins, I'm not sure if many people are actually happy with them. I'll be lowering the car with some springs soon as it's cheap/cheerful, but will be going down the same route as you. However, I've found some TEIN Advanced Z Coilovers with adjustable height and damping for £468, which is an outstanding price (https://bofiracing.co.uk/tein-street-advance-z-coilovers-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/). It's quite nice to be out of the Porsche world in terms of pricing.
I'll be heading down the alignment center today to get a 4-wheel hunter alignment done on the car. Seeing as the new suspension wasn't fitted correctly, I'm struggling to see how it would have gone amiss on a proper alignment machine, so I'm guessing it's never been aligned since. I'll let you all know when I get there later today.
Johnnybee said:
My seatbelts were terrible on my old mx5 and as mentioned above a good wash will improve them. I placed a bucket of hot soapy water on the seat, fully extended the belts (use a peg to hold them out) and gave them a good dunking and scrub. The improvement afterwards was amazing.
That's great to know, will try it in the week.Rsdop said:
I think with the Bilsteins its mainly the springs that’s the problem. They just sit too high so you get a wobble before it settles into a corner and it pitches about under braking. Once it’s settled into a corner it’s fine but definitely not ideal!
I was tempted to just get some springs and a proper alignment, but that’s £4-500 all in (I don’t have the time to fit myself currently), so figured might as well put that towards a proper setup. The MeisterR’s get amazing reviews. Was meant to be going into Blink Motorsport in a couple of weeks but been delayed because they can’t get the kits, I’m guessing because of Covid.
Please do report back after you’ve had it aligned, I’m curious as apparently even from the factory they weren’t setup great.
That's not too bad at all, I need to look into the MeisterR's as, coming from owning the Porsche, I'd never thought of changing suspension due to it costing too much. With it being more affordable on this though, it's definitely something I'm going to research more into, rather than just springs.I was tempted to just get some springs and a proper alignment, but that’s £4-500 all in (I don’t have the time to fit myself currently), so figured might as well put that towards a proper setup. The MeisterR’s get amazing reviews. Was meant to be going into Blink Motorsport in a couple of weeks but been delayed because they can’t get the kits, I’m guessing because of Covid.
Please do report back after you’ve had it aligned, I’m curious as apparently even from the factory they weren’t setup great.
Evoluzione said:
That looks like a good buy, one thing though and that is mileage and rust are not linked whatsoever. Buying a low mileage one does mean it is highly unlikely to be an oil burner though and you can look after it carefully to ensure it doesn't become a problem in the future.
Looking forward to reading how you get on with it, don't forget to do the scuttle grommets this Summer unless they've already been done, i'd also look into some underbody treatment/cavity wax injection before Winter. Personally i'd sort those two out before anything else.
Leather seats too
I always do fellow PHers a good deal on Meisters.
I'll certainly be looking after it as I've always done with my cars! With my previous Celica, knowing their reputation with oil issues, I used to use nothing other than Millers oil. Pricey, but once a year and it's worth it. On second thoughts, I may just use Mobil1 with this and change it twice a year instead. Same cost, and I suppose more oil changes are better than less, no matter what the brand.Looking forward to reading how you get on with it, don't forget to do the scuttle grommets this Summer unless they've already been done, i'd also look into some underbody treatment/cavity wax injection before Winter. Personally i'd sort those two out before anything else.
Leather seats too
I always do fellow PHers a good deal on Meisters.
Edited by Evoluzione on Tuesday 18th August 10:53
The underbody treatment is definitely the high on the to-do list, and I may do it in January with the MOT as the garage can do it at the same time. When you say scuttle grommets, what are you referring to? Not heard of this before.
robf1uk said:
They do clean-up nicely and are a lot of fun if looked after - I've had mine for two years now and have done most of the common mods (HU, Springs, ARBs etc)
A Stormy Blue facelift, literally my perfect choice. Quite envious! I'm a sucker for yellow calipers and always thought they'd go well with blue. By 'HU' do you mean 'Head Unit' or something else? How do you find the ARB's, and are they from an RX8 or Whiteline?Geordietom said:
Hi Geraint, great choice! I also have an NC MX-5, mine is the 2.0 Option Pack, so the 5spd version of yours. Interested to see what you do as I have the original Sachs shocks and springs which were replaced 10k ago. My car is on 94k. The seatbelts, don’t worry, they all do it. As noted, soapy water and or WD40 work well. Brake callipers are a known weak point too.
I’m also turning mine into a track car, so will follow with interest!
That's brilliant, the 5 speed is apparently very good to the point where I didn't know which to choose. Thanks for the tips, I'll be keeping an eye on the calipers. I can hear one scoring a little when I pull off on low speeds, and when the wheel was off yesterday it wasn't as free as I'd liked it to be, so further investigation is needed. However, all four were cold after a spirited drive, so nothing to worry about yet.I’m also turning mine into a track car, so will follow with interest!
Fantastic idea! Do you have a thread?
Today was wheel alignment day, and I've been looking forward to it since bringing the car home on Sunday. The car felt a little 'skippy' over jumps and had a tendency to jump to the side a little. It says a lot about the car when the alignment is causing this, but it still handles well. My Dad drove it home part of the way whilst I drove my car, which gave me a chance to look at the suspension movement and travel when we were side by side. The first thing I noticed was the positive camber on the front wheels whilst he was behind. I assumed this was purely down to the suspension not being pre-loaded.
With the suspension not fitted correctly previously and what looks like no alignment done since, it's a wonder how any previous owners could have left it this long.
Arrived at A&A Tyres in Cardiff. I've been here many times and thoroughly recommend the place. While I was here, it gave me a good chance to look at the condition of the paintwork under lamps.
It doesn't look too b--
...nevermind. It's dreadful. I cannot wait to get stuck into this paintwork, it's going to be incredibly satisfying. The only annoying aspect of it is that the front bumper has to come off to polish the headlights.
Speaking of headlights...
What's that glue/cracked area? It's the same on both lamps.
Anyway, back to the alignment.
The technician said "Is that genuine mileage? That's outstanding", which gave me a smile. We looked underneath and, aside from some slight surface corrosion on the rear subframe, there's no rust. The sills are solid, and that's made me incredibly happy.
The rear wheels were aligned, but the fronts out. The camber was the worst as there was quite a bit of positive camber on the front, as suspected from the feel and the look of the car.
The N/S front after an alignment:
The O/S front before:
You can literally see it. That should make a difference.
And it did. My word, what a beautiful handling car. After a good drive, it no longer finds ruts in the road or has an urgency to jump to the side over uneven surfaces/bumps. Very poised and precise. I'd recommend anyone with one of these to get one done. If it's correct, they don't charge you. If it's incorrect, they'll correct it and you know you'll have a good handling car. Either way, it's a win win.
I've ordered the following bits:
- Meguiars 105 & 205
- Mazda keyring (essential purchase)
- Replacement keyfob (buttons are worn)
- USB extension port for the cubby holder
- AutoFinesse Eradicate engine degreaser
- Front indicator bulbs (to replace the chrome ones)
- AutoGlym soft top renovator kit (had outstanding results before)
Once the Meguiars, AutoFinesse and AutoGlym products arrive, and once I have a spare weekend, the car will be undergoing a bit of a transformation.
With the suspension not fitted correctly previously and what looks like no alignment done since, it's a wonder how any previous owners could have left it this long.
Arrived at A&A Tyres in Cardiff. I've been here many times and thoroughly recommend the place. While I was here, it gave me a good chance to look at the condition of the paintwork under lamps.
It doesn't look too b--
...nevermind. It's dreadful. I cannot wait to get stuck into this paintwork, it's going to be incredibly satisfying. The only annoying aspect of it is that the front bumper has to come off to polish the headlights.
Speaking of headlights...
What's that glue/cracked area? It's the same on both lamps.
Anyway, back to the alignment.
The technician said "Is that genuine mileage? That's outstanding", which gave me a smile. We looked underneath and, aside from some slight surface corrosion on the rear subframe, there's no rust. The sills are solid, and that's made me incredibly happy.
The rear wheels were aligned, but the fronts out. The camber was the worst as there was quite a bit of positive camber on the front, as suspected from the feel and the look of the car.
The N/S front after an alignment:
The O/S front before:
You can literally see it. That should make a difference.
And it did. My word, what a beautiful handling car. After a good drive, it no longer finds ruts in the road or has an urgency to jump to the side over uneven surfaces/bumps. Very poised and precise. I'd recommend anyone with one of these to get one done. If it's correct, they don't charge you. If it's incorrect, they'll correct it and you know you'll have a good handling car. Either way, it's a win win.
I've ordered the following bits:
- Meguiars 105 & 205
- Mazda keyring (essential purchase)
- Replacement keyfob (buttons are worn)
- USB extension port for the cubby holder
- AutoFinesse Eradicate engine degreaser
- Front indicator bulbs (to replace the chrome ones)
- AutoGlym soft top renovator kit (had outstanding results before)
Once the Meguiars, AutoFinesse and AutoGlym products arrive, and once I have a spare weekend, the car will be undergoing a bit of a transformation.
Evoluzione said:
Scuttle grommets are one of the most common faults, so common it's outlined here: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?p=52
You'll find no end of mentions elsewhere online too.
The problem with doing any work on the underside in Winter is it'll already be soaked, coated in salt and rusting so not a great start for the process.
Just read up on it. Thanks for the heads up, that's an outstanding article too. Very good point with the winter/underseal, I'll get in touch with the garage to price it up. How much do you think it'll be roughly?You'll find no end of mentions elsewhere online too.
The problem with doing any work on the underside in Winter is it'll already be soaked, coated in salt and rusting so not a great start for the process.
robf1uk said:
Looks Stormy Blue in the picture (due to the processing and the light), but it's actually Metro Grey. I have the Eibach Pro springs fitted (35mm) alongside the IL Motorsport ARB's which are much thicker than standard (and the RX8 bars too I believe) - with a fast road goemetry I find it will corner mostly flat now when pressing on but you do get a bit of extra bounce from the shorter spring over ridges.. Yes, by HU I do mean Headunit - I have a Pioneer units fitted.
Oh! Apologies. That setup sounds lovely, would be great to drive an MX-5 with a similar setup to feel the difference.tr7v8 said:
Same history as me Boxster S owner which I chopped to get a 2010 SPort Tech. Lack of luggage space over the Boxster is a PITA.
The MX5 is much more useable performance. Have had ours 4+ years now and pre COVID toured with it every year. Did 3000Miles in 2017 with it all across europe.
Mine is on Billies & handles pretty well. Might if we keep it put RX8 ARBs on it but don't want to lower it. The roads are bad enough around here. The Bose package is OK, not great, the BlueTooth HF is dire. Cruise is good especially when touring, massively improves the economy. Did 44MPG whilst in Europe when the petrol strike was on.
Mine has had standard servicing via an indy every year. Around £200 inc. an MOT. Last year was the first none service fail when an EML came on. Turned out to be EGR valve. A pig of a job & around £500 all in.
Your hood needs a good clean & a Fabsil Gold session. One thing worth doing is swapping the wiper stalk for one from an RX8. This gives variable speed intermittent which is useful & takes 20 mins & costs £25 or so.
Good to see another Boxster to MX-5 owner! Lovely to see how much you're enjoying it over the years.The MX5 is much more useable performance. Have had ours 4+ years now and pre COVID toured with it every year. Did 3000Miles in 2017 with it all across europe.
Mine is on Billies & handles pretty well. Might if we keep it put RX8 ARBs on it but don't want to lower it. The roads are bad enough around here. The Bose package is OK, not great, the BlueTooth HF is dire. Cruise is good especially when touring, massively improves the economy. Did 44MPG whilst in Europe when the petrol strike was on.
Mine has had standard servicing via an indy every year. Around £200 inc. an MOT. Last year was the first none service fail when an EML came on. Turned out to be EGR valve. A pig of a job & around £500 all in.
Your hood needs a good clean & a Fabsil Gold session. One thing worth doing is swapping the wiper stalk for one from an RX8. This gives variable speed intermittent which is useful & takes 20 mins & costs £25 or so.
Hold on, cruise? These came with cruise? I wonder if it's retrofittable. The RX-8 stalk swap is definitely on my list to do.
snotrag said:
Cruise is retrofittable, easy on the facelift, bit harder on the early cars, requires the wheel buttons, plus if i recall a brake and clutch switch and some wires re-pinning into the ECU.
As for common jobs, some initial things I can think of that are 'standard' for first time NC owners:
Scuttle Grommets as mentioned.
Blocked hood drains.
Corrosion on underside of boot lid/reg plate light
Panic about fusebox being on fire when you spot the di-electric grease on the multi-plug
Geo as mentioned
Fit some seat lowering brackets!
Check for stuck calipers, strip and regrease all the pins (NOT with copper slip!).
Please please please book on a trackday ASAP,. and do not fall down the trap of thinking you must upgraded brakes, buy a roll bar, buy bucket seats etc.
I know so many people who are 'building a track car' and 'gonna do this' and 'gonna do that'.
You don't need it. Book a track day. Top the oil up. Check the tyre pressures. Send it. It will be fine. They are strong,and good to drive.
I'd much, much rather be driving my mildly modded (if that) NC on track a few times a year than have a 'track car' project stuck in the garage indefinitely.
Sorry, there may be a bit of a mis-communication to what I plan to do with the car. As mentioned in the first post, I'll be keeping it standard for a while and will appreciate it for what it is, but that includes going to the track as standard too. The uprated brake pads/discs, roll bars and so on are things I've done to previous cars to improve their handling on the road, and it's something I quite enjoy. I've absolutely no doubt that it'll be fantastic to drive straight out the box and after driving it I'm confident this will be a complete hoot on the track as it is. But yes you're right in tracking it standard first. The future will bring uprated bits and bobs, as and when, if needed.As for common jobs, some initial things I can think of that are 'standard' for first time NC owners:
Scuttle Grommets as mentioned.
Blocked hood drains.
Corrosion on underside of boot lid/reg plate light
Panic about fusebox being on fire when you spot the di-electric grease on the multi-plug
Geo as mentioned
Fit some seat lowering brackets!
Check for stuck calipers, strip and regrease all the pins (NOT with copper slip!).
Please please please book on a trackday ASAP,. and do not fall down the trap of thinking you must upgraded brakes, buy a roll bar, buy bucket seats etc.
I know so many people who are 'building a track car' and 'gonna do this' and 'gonna do that'.
You don't need it. Book a track day. Top the oil up. Check the tyre pressures. Send it. It will be fine. They are strong,and good to drive.
I'd much, much rather be driving my mildly modded (if that) NC on track a few times a year than have a 'track car' project stuck in the garage indefinitely.
Those tips are golden, many thanks! Although I probably won't be lowering the seat any time soon. I'm 5'8" and my driving position is spot on.
snotrag said:
Enjoy 
ETA - Black ones look absolutely ace when the Paintwork has had a good seeing too - its very easy to work with to, even given the massive amount of swirls in your pictures you'll be impressed how good you can get it looking with a few hours or cutting and polishing.
That's relieving to know! Porsche paint is so soft that it was a nightmare to work with.ETA - Black ones look absolutely ace when the Paintwork has had a good seeing too - its very easy to work with to, even given the massive amount of swirls in your pictures you'll be impressed how good you can get it looking with a few hours or cutting and polishing.
Edited by snotrag on Tuesday 18th August 12:40
Accelebrate said:
Good plan! I've enjoyed seeing how each change has altered the way the car behaves on track, I think it's much more rewarding then throwing all the bits the internet tells you you need at it and having nothing to compare it to.
Absolutely. Really looking forward to that. How did you find it on the track when standard? Accelebrate said:
The body-roll was amusing...
...but it was still heaps of fun, even with road pads and two different tyre brands. I'd done relatively little driving on track at that point, the driver was very much the limiting factor rather than the car. That's probably still the case, I was well and truly put in my place recently by a Supercup driver at Cadwell who was having some fun in an NC he'd recently bought for £1400, standard apart from some semi-slicks borrowed from his racecar.
I think it'll be the same when I get on track. I'll see if I can get an instructor with me too. I would think that driver tuition would be far more rewarding than any upgrade on the car....but it was still heaps of fun, even with road pads and two different tyre brands. I'd done relatively little driving on track at that point, the driver was very much the limiting factor rather than the car. That's probably still the case, I was well and truly put in my place recently by a Supercup driver at Cadwell who was having some fun in an NC he'd recently bought for £1400, standard apart from some semi-slicks borrowed from his racecar.
Volcanic said:
Beautiful car, with lots of potential.
Have plans of finding myself one once I've finished rebuilding my grandsons dirt bike.
Try Pledge on the seatbelt webbing. Had a similar issue with my car after it sat on the drive for five years (Another story).
Can't wait to see how the paint comes back
You'll have to tell me that story...Have plans of finding myself one once I've finished rebuilding my grandsons dirt bike.
Try Pledge on the seatbelt webbing. Had a similar issue with my car after it sat on the drive for five years (Another story).
Can't wait to see how the paint comes back
toby-w8jtf said:
I was hoping to do the opposite and progress from my 2010 2.0 Sport Tech to an early 2000s Boxster S..... I love the MX5 but I only bought it as a stop gap and some cheap motoring after owning a a right lemon of a Golf R (blown engine and DSG box) that cost me thousands in repairs.
Really have the urge now for more power but after all the drama i had with my modified Golf I just don't think I could risk forced induction etc.
Do you think I'd regret the move to a Porker?
Initially, you won't regret it. The sound and the power will be enough to keep you going for a while. But then you'll realise the maintenance costs (even doing everything yourself), and the fact you have to be so damn careful of which parts you buy. Plus there's Porsche paranoia. It was a beautiful car but I couldn't have as much fun as I could in my Celica, was constantly worrying.Really have the urge now for more power but after all the drama i had with my modified Golf I just don't think I could risk forced induction etc.
Do you think I'd regret the move to a Porker?
The MX-5 is a dream to handle in comparison. Don't switch, give your 5 more power.
Had my first big problem in the car last night, and was wondering when it would happen.
You guessed it.
Binding caliper!
Front left was so hot that it started to wobble the car and slow it down. This was midnight last night on the motoroway, and I thought I had a flat tyre. After sitting at the side of the road and letting it cool, we tried driving normally and braking normally again. Nope, same thing when using the brakes a little, they stuck on. We stopped again, let it cool, and I pulled off and drove for a while without touching the brake, then came to a rolling stop. The brake/wheel was cold, so I drove home without using my brakes utilising engine braking and a little bit of handbrake. No traffic luckily, and where there was I used hazards. Anyway, we got home safe, but annoyed.
I'm more than accustom to sticking floating calipers, having had the same problems with my old Celica. They were exactly the same, the weakest point of the car. That's the one good thing about having fixed calipers on the Porsche. No sliders.
So it could be sticking/rusty sliders, or it could be a rusted piston. It could be a collapsed line, but I'll look at the caliper first.
I've got four options:
- Remove, sand, clean and grease the sliding pins - £0
- Purchase new sliding pins - £8
- Purchase a caliper rebuild kit - £19
- Purchase a new caliper - £80
I've not rebuilt a caliper yet, but I do most mechanical stuff myself so I'm happy to give it a go if needed.
Is there an easy or simple way to tell if it's the piston or sliders? I wouldn't want to go cleaning/replacing the sliders, only for this to happen on the motorway again! On the same hand, I don't want to throw £80 at a new caliper when cleaning or replacing pins would fix it.
Annoying as I have a sticking caliper on my Focus too.
You guessed it.
Binding caliper!
Front left was so hot that it started to wobble the car and slow it down. This was midnight last night on the motoroway, and I thought I had a flat tyre. After sitting at the side of the road and letting it cool, we tried driving normally and braking normally again. Nope, same thing when using the brakes a little, they stuck on. We stopped again, let it cool, and I pulled off and drove for a while without touching the brake, then came to a rolling stop. The brake/wheel was cold, so I drove home without using my brakes utilising engine braking and a little bit of handbrake. No traffic luckily, and where there was I used hazards. Anyway, we got home safe, but annoyed.
I'm more than accustom to sticking floating calipers, having had the same problems with my old Celica. They were exactly the same, the weakest point of the car. That's the one good thing about having fixed calipers on the Porsche. No sliders.
So it could be sticking/rusty sliders, or it could be a rusted piston. It could be a collapsed line, but I'll look at the caliper first.
I've got four options:
- Remove, sand, clean and grease the sliding pins - £0
- Purchase new sliding pins - £8
- Purchase a caliper rebuild kit - £19
- Purchase a new caliper - £80
I've not rebuilt a caliper yet, but I do most mechanical stuff myself so I'm happy to give it a go if needed.
Is there an easy or simple way to tell if it's the piston or sliders? I wouldn't want to go cleaning/replacing the sliders, only for this to happen on the motorway again! On the same hand, I don't want to throw £80 at a new caliper when cleaning or replacing pins would fix it.
Annoying as I have a sticking caliper on my Focus too.
Edited by geraintthomas on Wednesday 19th August 11:45
£35? I can't find one for under £80. For £35 I'd do it. It's £80 on ebay, or a hell of a lot more expensive on EuroCarParts for a Pagid. Where did you find it?
I do see what you mean. At the moment, it's the difference between £18 for new seals, boots and a brand new piston, or £80 for a recon (if it is indeed £80). I have a flap wheel for my dremel, wire brushes and sandpaper which would clean out and polish the internals of the piston chamber, ready for a new one. This with new boots should technically last.
But... I really do see the sense in just buying a new caliper and calling a day, especially if you say they're improved. You're probably right with how it's the best option to go down, but I wouldn't mind attempting a rebuild first. Mainly for the satisfaction and challenge as I've not done one before and always want to learn new things with mechanics, secondly for the very low price (£18 vs £80). If it doesn't last then I know I'll need new calipers in the future if/when the others go, and it's only cost £18 for an attempt.
I think for the price and the experience of doing it, it's worth a try at least once. Then when it fails you can say you told me so...
I do see what you mean. At the moment, it's the difference between £18 for new seals, boots and a brand new piston, or £80 for a recon (if it is indeed £80). I have a flap wheel for my dremel, wire brushes and sandpaper which would clean out and polish the internals of the piston chamber, ready for a new one. This with new boots should technically last.
But... I really do see the sense in just buying a new caliper and calling a day, especially if you say they're improved. You're probably right with how it's the best option to go down, but I wouldn't mind attempting a rebuild first. Mainly for the satisfaction and challenge as I've not done one before and always want to learn new things with mechanics, secondly for the very low price (£18 vs £80). If it doesn't last then I know I'll need new calipers in the future if/when the others go, and it's only cost £18 for an attempt.
I think for the price and the experience of doing it, it's worth a try at least once. Then when it fails you can say you told me so...
Edited by geraintthomas on Wednesday 19th August 12:31
Great to hear, gives me a sense of relief that new calipers last. I'm going to assume that all of mine will eventually need replacing and I'll most likely replace the whole caliper for a shiny new one as previously mentioned by others.
For now though, I've ordered the rebuild kit. Been wanting to tackle a caliper rebuild for a while and this seems to be a perfect opportunity. If it goes tits up, I'll get a new caliper and will then on for any other brakes on the MX-5 that fail. But for now, I fancy tackling a the rebuild. The plan is to strip the caliper, remove the old seals and piston, tackle the inside of the piston pot with a mini wire brush and sand paper, along with a flap wheel on the dremel for any other stubborn parts. I'll use a tube/pipe wire brush for the slider holes, ensuring they're rust free and smooth. Once everything's clean, I'll use the new piston, seals and grease to build the caliper back up.
It could last years, or it may not get through the winter. Either way, it's a nice learning experience.
For now though, I've ordered the rebuild kit. Been wanting to tackle a caliper rebuild for a while and this seems to be a perfect opportunity. If it goes tits up, I'll get a new caliper and will then on for any other brakes on the MX-5 that fail. But for now, I fancy tackling a the rebuild. The plan is to strip the caliper, remove the old seals and piston, tackle the inside of the piston pot with a mini wire brush and sand paper, along with a flap wheel on the dremel for any other stubborn parts. I'll use a tube/pipe wire brush for the slider holes, ensuring they're rust free and smooth. Once everything's clean, I'll use the new piston, seals and grease to build the caliper back up.
It could last years, or it may not get through the winter. Either way, it's a nice learning experience.
Podie said:
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses... sticky calliper is a disappointment so soon - but looks like a lot of promise!
It is a little bit, but not towards the car itself, only towards the fact I can't drive it until the kit comes. It's understandable though, it's an original Mazda caliper which is 14 years old, and most likely not driven that hard in a long time. I say this as I tried to drive it hard with the high front end and the un-aligned setup, and it was quite scary. At least pushing the car has shown any weak points, and a sticky caliper isn't a big one.Trollied said:
Great thread so far! 
Always had an interest in these and yours looks like a good example. Currently own an E46, but I think either this, or an EP3 will be next. Will be following with interest.
Thank you, it's certainly getting there, even though I can't drive it at the moment with the brakes. If you want to mix both of those, get an S2000. I've yet to drive one but it's a bucket list thing for me!Always had an interest in these and yours looks like a good example. Currently own an E46, but I think either this, or an EP3 will be next. Will be following with interest.
Goodies!
Inside is this lot:
AutoGlym roof renovator, Meguiars 105, indicator bulbs, USB socket, a Ford Focus caliper (my other thread), and the MX-5 caliper sliders and re-build kit with piston.
There's something about brand new machined metal parts with rubber. I don't know why, just makes me very happy...
The other thing that arrived was a new keyfob and keyring.
That's it currently, I keep forgetting which is lock and unlock.
That's it now
And a keyring. Just in case I forget what car I'm driving.
Whilst I was moving the Mazda off the driveway to work on the Focus, I thought I'd quickly tackle this mess:
Managed to get the subwoofer remote out. Such a huge lead. I'll take the rest of the subwoofer out when I get round to removing the power line that goes to the battery too.
Lifting up the center console revealed the USB socket that I thought was close by.
So this could be plugged into it
Looks lovely and flush. However, there's a problem. That's with the center console lifted slightly. I can't lower it due to wires being in the way inside.
Those. Lifting the console again reveals the following box that they're plugged in:
What is that? Either way, it's held down by two (what looks like) 10mm bolts. If I take one bolt out, I could swivel it on an angle, and there should be enough room for my USB socket. I'm not sure what this is though, so before I start fiddling, could someone tell me what it is?
Inside is this lot:
AutoGlym roof renovator, Meguiars 105, indicator bulbs, USB socket, a Ford Focus caliper (my other thread), and the MX-5 caliper sliders and re-build kit with piston.
There's something about brand new machined metal parts with rubber. I don't know why, just makes me very happy...
The other thing that arrived was a new keyfob and keyring.
That's it currently, I keep forgetting which is lock and unlock.
That's it now
And a keyring. Just in case I forget what car I'm driving.
Whilst I was moving the Mazda off the driveway to work on the Focus, I thought I'd quickly tackle this mess:
Managed to get the subwoofer remote out. Such a huge lead. I'll take the rest of the subwoofer out when I get round to removing the power line that goes to the battery too.
Lifting up the center console revealed the USB socket that I thought was close by.
So this could be plugged into it
Looks lovely and flush. However, there's a problem. That's with the center console lifted slightly. I can't lower it due to wires being in the way inside.
Those. Lifting the console again reveals the following box that they're plugged in:
What is that? Either way, it's held down by two (what looks like) 10mm bolts. If I take one bolt out, I could swivel it on an angle, and there should be enough room for my USB socket. I'm not sure what this is though, so before I start fiddling, could someone tell me what it is?
Edited by geraintthomas on Thursday 20th August 18:21
TheJimi said:
Buy some decent coffee man!
We have a real coffee machine with ground coffee, but that's for any coffee we need to make quick or for when we can't be bothered to steam any milk!JoeMk1 said:
It's the yaw rate sensor for the stability control.
I see. Think it would still work if it was pointed to the left or right slightly?So I took a close inspection of the caliper today.
First things first, I removed the bolts for the sliders, and I could slide the sliding pins by hand freely. One was a little stiff (the one with the rubber boot), but I could still move it by hand. The other slider was completely free.
After removing the carrier bolts, the caliper itself was stuck to the disc. This instantly made me think that it's the piston.
One slider looks like this:
The other looks like this (the stiffer one but still moveable by hand):
I got the caliper off, and pumped the pedal a few times to get the piston out a little. Pulling back the rubber showed this:
I thought that was quite clean, but could be mistaken. Now the way it acted with the caliper stuck to the brake disc made me think it's the piston, but that's telling me otherwise.
The carrier itself isn't in great condition, and the pads were very stuck in the carrier. I had to give them a good knock to get them out of the carrier.
So what's the general consensus before I start pulling the caliper apart?
First things first, I removed the bolts for the sliders, and I could slide the sliding pins by hand freely. One was a little stiff (the one with the rubber boot), but I could still move it by hand. The other slider was completely free.
After removing the carrier bolts, the caliper itself was stuck to the disc. This instantly made me think that it's the piston.
One slider looks like this:
The other looks like this (the stiffer one but still moveable by hand):
I got the caliper off, and pumped the pedal a few times to get the piston out a little. Pulling back the rubber showed this:
I thought that was quite clean, but could be mistaken. Now the way it acted with the caliper stuck to the brake disc made me think it's the piston, but that's telling me otherwise.
The carrier itself isn't in great condition, and the pads were very stuck in the carrier. I had to give them a good knock to get them out of the carrier.
So what's the general consensus before I start pulling the caliper apart?
BEN99W said:
I have an NB mx5 so I've no knowledge of the NC brakes, but in my experience, the first thing to cause sticking brakes is the pads jamming in the carrier which the pic and your account appears to support. Clean the pads, clean the stainless clips and the carriers and apply some copper grease. Make sure that the pads move freely.
Ben
Interesting. The caliper was stuck so much that I struggled to then the wheel when in the air. Would the pads being stuck in the carrier cause it to be that bad? Great news if so as it's an easy fix for me!Ben
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