Discussion
Background:
8 years running about in an econobox Toyota IQ having sworn not to waste money on cars again, I'm given a loan of a new range rover sport by a friend who had one spare for a few months. After I handed the keys back recently it took me a day back in the IQ to crack and give in to the desire for a bit more power. Close to biting the bullet on a high mile Mercedes sl or newer shape xkr, but sensibility won out in the end and I decided on a comfort barge.
The Car:
I found that the new shape skoda superbs have now depreciated a lot, making them a great used buy. They're 20-47k new depending on spec.
I spotted a rare model (1% of UK superb sales) where they have the 280hp version of the VAG 2.0 TFSI fitted, with DSG wet clutch 6spd and haldex 4x4
It's the same MQB chassis and drivetrain found on the MK7 Golf R.
This one was n a 66 plate with 50k miles, I get it via the approved used skoda dealer network with a 2yr warranty for... £11k with a 2 year warranty, and it's got almost every possible option, specced when new with an OTR cost of £37k.
It has metallic paint, led DRLs, electric opening and closing boot, the £1600 columbus satnav option. umbrellas hidden in the edges of the front doors, an ice scraper hidden in the fuel filler lid, one of the boot lights doubles as a removable torch, controls in the boot to drop the rear seats, auto lights and wipers, headlight washers, lights that turn when you turn the wheel, keyless everything, adaptive cruise control, heated Alcantara memory electric seats, expensive dynamic chassis control option where you can set the ride firmness etc, flappy paddle DSG, more rear passenger leg room than a long wheelbase s class, the led plus factory option that has loads of cool colour changeable led interior lighting (strips on doors, dash, footwell lighting etc etc) loads of boot space, its really hard to fault it.
Picked up some accessories from the dealership, boot nets, ipad mounts, first aid kit, warning triangle since there are cavities in the boot to hold them, I reckon they should be there.
I have no problem with the skoda brand myself although I'm old enough to remember the playground jokes. But I ain't gonna let the snooty rich neighbours around me look down their nose at me, so...
Day 1, before I land it on the drive I have it debadged and get a private plate on. I had some badges made up to fill the badge void, using a skoda logo from 1905 when they were called laurin and klement. Noone will recognise that.
Day 3, I have it taken to stage 1, from 289bhp to 350. Its lively now, although of coarse a bit boaty when it gets to the corners as expected for a barge.
Day 5, dechrome around the windows and have rear tints done.
Future Plans:
Replacement dechromed honeycomb grille is already bought and on the way from Czech. Nightmare 4hr to change front grille.
I've already bought 2020 spec full led rear lights with the funky dynamic turn signals I'm currently deep in wiring diagrams figuring how to making a bespoke conversion wiring harness so I can do the retrofit, which isn't a documented thing and involves some grief, especially if like me, you don't want to go chopping into the existing wiring.
OEM safety triangle kit DONE
OEM first aid kit DONE
Stage 1 remap DONE
Debadge DONE
Custom L&K badges for front, back, wheel centre caps and steering wheel DONE
reversing camera retrofit kit DONE
19" or 20" lightweight rims DONE
Vcds or obd eleven programming tool DONE
Code it to keep start top always off DONE
Code it to keep exhaust flaps always open DONE
Code the engine to think it's in an audi DONE
Code the throttle response to be linear DONE
Honeycomb front grille DONE
Update MIB2 software DONE
boot net programme DONE
oem rear centre mount for ipad DONE
code video in motion using vcp DONE
alu pedals and footrest from a Golf R DONE
replace plates with legally spaced ones DONE
Facelift LED tail lights retrofit
Yet to do:
Bootlid lip spoiler
Roof spoiler
diffuser
Heated flat bottom sportline steering wheel retrofit
Passat headrests
Pilot sport 4S all round
Eibach or KW or H&r lowering springs
Front and back sway bar upgrade
Haldex remap
gearbox remap
Reiger sideskirts
black (sportline) front bumper lower strip to replace chrome
Mib2 to Mib2.5 upgrade
Racingline r600 intake
Peron intercooler
downpipe
Virtual cockpit retrofit
virtual pedal retrofit
Wing mirror turn signal upgrade to dynamic animated.
Maybe retrofit OE optional "canton" amp and sub.
Dragy box
haldex filter clean (which skoda claim isn't needed..)
heated windscreen retrofit
tv tuner retrofit
Upgrade lots of little interior bulbs to led
Maybe those cool carbags.com travel bags that custom fit your boot.
make right any little dents or scuffs around the body
8 years running about in an econobox Toyota IQ having sworn not to waste money on cars again, I'm given a loan of a new range rover sport by a friend who had one spare for a few months. After I handed the keys back recently it took me a day back in the IQ to crack and give in to the desire for a bit more power. Close to biting the bullet on a high mile Mercedes sl or newer shape xkr, but sensibility won out in the end and I decided on a comfort barge.
The Car:
I found that the new shape skoda superbs have now depreciated a lot, making them a great used buy. They're 20-47k new depending on spec.
I spotted a rare model (1% of UK superb sales) where they have the 280hp version of the VAG 2.0 TFSI fitted, with DSG wet clutch 6spd and haldex 4x4
It's the same MQB chassis and drivetrain found on the MK7 Golf R.
This one was n a 66 plate with 50k miles, I get it via the approved used skoda dealer network with a 2yr warranty for... £11k with a 2 year warranty, and it's got almost every possible option, specced when new with an OTR cost of £37k.
It has metallic paint, led DRLs, electric opening and closing boot, the £1600 columbus satnav option. umbrellas hidden in the edges of the front doors, an ice scraper hidden in the fuel filler lid, one of the boot lights doubles as a removable torch, controls in the boot to drop the rear seats, auto lights and wipers, headlight washers, lights that turn when you turn the wheel, keyless everything, adaptive cruise control, heated Alcantara memory electric seats, expensive dynamic chassis control option where you can set the ride firmness etc, flappy paddle DSG, more rear passenger leg room than a long wheelbase s class, the led plus factory option that has loads of cool colour changeable led interior lighting (strips on doors, dash, footwell lighting etc etc) loads of boot space, its really hard to fault it.
Picked up some accessories from the dealership, boot nets, ipad mounts, first aid kit, warning triangle since there are cavities in the boot to hold them, I reckon they should be there.
I have no problem with the skoda brand myself although I'm old enough to remember the playground jokes. But I ain't gonna let the snooty rich neighbours around me look down their nose at me, so...
Day 1, before I land it on the drive I have it debadged and get a private plate on. I had some badges made up to fill the badge void, using a skoda logo from 1905 when they were called laurin and klement. Noone will recognise that.
Day 3, I have it taken to stage 1, from 289bhp to 350. Its lively now, although of coarse a bit boaty when it gets to the corners as expected for a barge.
Day 5, dechrome around the windows and have rear tints done.
Future Plans:
Replacement dechromed honeycomb grille is already bought and on the way from Czech. Nightmare 4hr to change front grille.
I've already bought 2020 spec full led rear lights with the funky dynamic turn signals I'm currently deep in wiring diagrams figuring how to making a bespoke conversion wiring harness so I can do the retrofit, which isn't a documented thing and involves some grief, especially if like me, you don't want to go chopping into the existing wiring.
OEM safety triangle kit DONE
OEM first aid kit DONE
Stage 1 remap DONE
Debadge DONE
Custom L&K badges for front, back, wheel centre caps and steering wheel DONE
reversing camera retrofit kit DONE
19" or 20" lightweight rims DONE
Vcds or obd eleven programming tool DONE
Code it to keep start top always off DONE
Code it to keep exhaust flaps always open DONE
Code the engine to think it's in an audi DONE
Code the throttle response to be linear DONE
Honeycomb front grille DONE
Update MIB2 software DONE
boot net programme DONE
oem rear centre mount for ipad DONE
code video in motion using vcp DONE
alu pedals and footrest from a Golf R DONE
replace plates with legally spaced ones DONE
Facelift LED tail lights retrofit
Yet to do:
Bootlid lip spoiler
Roof spoiler
diffuser
Heated flat bottom sportline steering wheel retrofit
Passat headrests
Pilot sport 4S all round
Eibach or KW or H&r lowering springs
Front and back sway bar upgrade
Haldex remap
gearbox remap
Reiger sideskirts
black (sportline) front bumper lower strip to replace chrome
Mib2 to Mib2.5 upgrade
Racingline r600 intake
Peron intercooler
downpipe
Virtual cockpit retrofit
virtual pedal retrofit
Wing mirror turn signal upgrade to dynamic animated.
Maybe retrofit OE optional "canton" amp and sub.
Dragy box
haldex filter clean (which skoda claim isn't needed..)
heated windscreen retrofit
tv tuner retrofit
Upgrade lots of little interior bulbs to led
Maybe those cool carbags.com travel bags that custom fit your boot.
make right any little dents or scuffs around the body
Edited by AlVal on Saturday 27th March 08:48
In the back of my mind I know there's def some truth to the whole q car element being undone by the plate, but heck, I've bought it now, ain't going back. I may put the spacing right as suggested, probably the best compromise.
Bought a Ross tech VCDS kit today, so will be able to do all sorts of coding on it that I want once it arrives:
Clear the fault code that I've updated MIB2 firmware
Keep exhaust flaps open always
Allow electric boot close from remote and interior button
Increased sensitivity of the throttle (audi mode)
Enabling DRL control from the MIB2 headunit
Heated seat level memory
Fog lights as coming home lights
Disable tailgate beep
Automatically change the clock to summertime
Ignition on/off button heartbeat pulse
Once I do the facelift taillight retrofit, will need to code it in.
Bought a Ross tech VCDS kit today, so will be able to do all sorts of coding on it that I want once it arrives:
Clear the fault code that I've updated MIB2 firmware
Keep exhaust flaps open always
Allow electric boot close from remote and interior button
Increased sensitivity of the throttle (audi mode)
Enabling DRL control from the MIB2 headunit
Heated seat level memory
Fog lights as coming home lights
Disable tailgate beep
Automatically change the clock to summertime
Ignition on/off button heartbeat pulse
Once I do the facelift taillight retrofit, will need to code it in.
Well £11500 to be exact. I do still think it was a great price on it, and especially via the skoda approved used dealer network, I normally steer well clear of dealers and do the best private deal I can for the best bargains. So far only 2 things I found were
a) a slightly above average number of little scuffs and scratches for its age,
b) it looks like someone (presumably the dealer?) sprayed the hubs silver to make them look good, I guess for sale, but it looks like they sprayed the rear brake discs along with the hub, and just let the brake pad cut through the paint back to the disc. I'm no expert but this sounds all shades of wrong to me, and here's the kicker - the dealer said that they changed front and rear discs for me on the morning I was picking it up. I can't imagine an official skoda dealership putting new discs on, then spraying paint on them...?
a) a slightly above average number of little scuffs and scratches for its age,
b) it looks like someone (presumably the dealer?) sprayed the hubs silver to make them look good, I guess for sale, but it looks like they sprayed the rear brake discs along with the hub, and just let the brake pad cut through the paint back to the disc. I'm no expert but this sounds all shades of wrong to me, and here's the kicker - the dealer said that they changed front and rear discs for me on the morning I was picking it up. I can't imagine an official skoda dealership putting new discs on, then spraying paint on them...?
Ah, thanks, so it's not a completely mental thing to do.
In other news, I bought a Ross tech Vcds hex-net v2
Programmer and started doing some coding on the car., so now
Exhaust flaps stay open
Tell the engine it's in an audi and not a skoda (there's a setting in the coding for that) and hilariously the throttle response dramatically changes, it's transformed the pedal feel
No more beeping from the electric tailgate.
In other news, I bought a Ross tech Vcds hex-net v2
Programmer and started doing some coding on the car., so now
Exhaust flaps stay open
Tell the engine it's in an audi and not a skoda (there's a setting in the coding for that) and hilariously the throttle response dramatically changes, it's transformed the pedal feel
No more beeping from the electric tailgate.
I struck gold finding these 20" rims from a BMW i8: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-I8-wheels-and-tyres...
So the seller didn't know the rim width, but from my early research it seemed maybe 7J or 7.5J, possibly even staggered 7 at the front and 7.5 at the back. Either way is unusually narrow for a 20", but perfect for what I'm thinking - that narrower width will keep the weight down, probably looking to save every gram on an electric car. the standard superb rims are 8j at 18" and I think 8.5J at 19"
PCD 5x112.. good!
Centre bore 66.5 so some some plastic spigot rings to adapt - no problem.
Where I read that they're 7J, the offset is quoted as ET36, so that's pretty much a perfect width/offset combination
So I win the auction and went to pick them up today. As I'm collecting them, I'm picking them up, thinking...."these are light... _real_ light..hmm OMG could they be forged?!! The i8 is a high end car, I guess it's possible..."
So I get them home, turns out the summer setup for the i8 is staggered 7j/7.5j and the winter setup is 7.5J all round (et40) - this is a set of 4x 7.5Js - bingo!
further research... they are indeed forged!!
I paid £280 for an almost immaculate (couple of minor scuffs) forged 20" rims that will be way lighter than my current 18"s. I'll get appropriate size tyres on them, sell off the wrong size nearly new bridgestone potenzas on them, and do a weight comparison when doing the switchover including rims and tyres. I found the spec for the wheels, and in 7J the rim itself is 10kg, and in 7.5J it's 13.6kg. my skoda 18" "zeniths" are according to skoda https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheel-zeni... 13.7kg each, and would be carrying more rubber weight too.
I reckon no-one's looking at i8 wheels on the used market, as its not a fitment that would work for most likely contender bmws, and most of the vag group folk wouldn't have thought of it, so there's my secret trick for today!
check out what the retail on them is... https://www.leebmann24.de/bmw-winterkomplettraeder...
Looking forward to getting them fitted
So the seller didn't know the rim width, but from my early research it seemed maybe 7J or 7.5J, possibly even staggered 7 at the front and 7.5 at the back. Either way is unusually narrow for a 20", but perfect for what I'm thinking - that narrower width will keep the weight down, probably looking to save every gram on an electric car. the standard superb rims are 8j at 18" and I think 8.5J at 19"
PCD 5x112.. good!
Centre bore 66.5 so some some plastic spigot rings to adapt - no problem.
Where I read that they're 7J, the offset is quoted as ET36, so that's pretty much a perfect width/offset combination
So I win the auction and went to pick them up today. As I'm collecting them, I'm picking them up, thinking...."these are light... _real_ light..hmm OMG could they be forged?!! The i8 is a high end car, I guess it's possible..."
So I get them home, turns out the summer setup for the i8 is staggered 7j/7.5j and the winter setup is 7.5J all round (et40) - this is a set of 4x 7.5Js - bingo!
further research... they are indeed forged!!
I paid £280 for an almost immaculate (couple of minor scuffs) forged 20" rims that will be way lighter than my current 18"s. I'll get appropriate size tyres on them, sell off the wrong size nearly new bridgestone potenzas on them, and do a weight comparison when doing the switchover including rims and tyres. I found the spec for the wheels, and in 7J the rim itself is 10kg, and in 7.5J it's 13.6kg. my skoda 18" "zeniths" are according to skoda https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheel-zeni... 13.7kg each, and would be carrying more rubber weight too.
I reckon no-one's looking at i8 wheels on the used market, as its not a fitment that would work for most likely contender bmws, and most of the vag group folk wouldn't have thought of it, so there's my secret trick for today!
check out what the retail on them is... https://www.leebmann24.de/bmw-winterkomplettraeder...
Looking forward to getting them fitted
Edited by AlVal on Friday 26th February 22:06
Edited by AlVal on Saturday 27th February 09:01
Max M4X WW said:
Wow, this seems to have escalated quickly.
I've read your whole post and I'm a bit confused by the badging, mainly because your car is not an L&K model but each to their own! I had thought my Superb 280 was 'the cheapest in the UK' Hoovie style but I've now been proven wrong (though mine is an L&K).
Interested to see progress on this, they are great cars!
All great leaders attract criticism.. I've read your whole post and I'm a bit confused by the badging, mainly because your car is not an L&K model but each to their own! I had thought my Superb 280 was 'the cheapest in the UK' Hoovie style but I've now been proven wrong (though mine is an L&K).
Interested to see progress on this, they are great cars!
Re: the badging, L&K was the company name before skoda, named after the founders Victor Laurin and Victor Klement, and this is the Skoda badge from about the year 1905. Its for those reasons I see it as a valid choice, its not intended to refer L&k as a trim level, which in more modern times is done with a calligraphy font.
Black honeycomb grille fitted, I plastic welded plastic mesh to the back of it, as out of the box it seemed way too open for stones to hit the rad.
I also retrofitted the rear view camera factory option, coded it to the MIB2 columbus head unit. Removing all the interior trim to run the wiring was a fair old job, but ultimately I was rewarded, as dealer price for retrofitting is best part of a grand. I got the part from aliexpress for £50 and with some of my own effort it's all good including the steering lines, calibration, no errors etc.
I also retrofitted the rear view camera factory option, coded it to the MIB2 columbus head unit. Removing all the interior trim to run the wiring was a fair old job, but ultimately I was rewarded, as dealer price for retrofitting is best part of a grand. I got the part from aliexpress for £50 and with some of my own effort it's all good including the steering lines, calibration, no errors etc.
dunc69 said:
Great effort with the reversing camera!
ajb88 said:
Great effort with the camera, I've wanted to retrofit camera's to my MK2 Leon, MK3 Leon and 981 Caymans S but never been brave enough.
Thanks folks - I like to exercise caution when removing trim, I trust myself more than many professional garages and even skoda dealers to take the required care, properly consult the workshop manual etc. before yanking at any trim - I make sure I know where all the clips and screws are, and tackle it patiently and methodically. Never chopping into wires either (knowing how to remove and add pins to the TE connectors inside the quadlock connector on the back of the MIB2 headunit is important, was mightily impressed that the aliexpress part from china came with all required pins and connectors to do a proper OEM splicing job where needed - very proper and clean install. If you want any guidance or help tackling a similar reverse camera retrofit, happy to help guide you
The only thing I'm annoyed at myself for not doing is using the right tape along the wire run, it was secured to the existing wire run with electrical tape, whereas to be 100% 'proper', I believe I should have been using that special automotive wiring fabric tape that they wrap around harnesses - not sure what it's called, or exactly why they use that fabric tape (I'm guessing as it's unlikely to ever rattle?), but I'll be diving back in to run wires for the next retrofit ("virtual pedal/easy open system") which lets you pop the boot by waving your foot under the bumper.
The Alu pedals and footrest from a golf r mk7 are perfect fit.
Takes little time, just soaked the accelerator one in hot water to make the rubber more flexible to squeeze on.
My example is RHD
Skoda dealer told me there was a skoda option for RHD, quoted me £120 for pedals and footrest, then gave me a set of pedals without footrest for a superb mk2 after waiting weeks...
AliExpress 30-something quid including postage and customs taxes which are prepaid upfront, job done. V happy.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLER5ix
Takes little time, just soaked the accelerator one in hot water to make the rubber more flexible to squeeze on.
My example is RHD
Skoda dealer told me there was a skoda option for RHD, quoted me £120 for pedals and footrest, then gave me a set of pedals without footrest for a superb mk2 after waiting weeks...
AliExpress 30-something quid including postage and customs taxes which are prepaid upfront, job done. V happy.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLER5ix
Facelift LED taillights fitted. Well that was a job and a half in terms of wiring etc.
https://youtu.be/ybRPBTotKMw
https://youtu.be/ybRPBTotKMw
Max M4X WW said:
AlVal said:
Facelift LED taillights fitted. Well that was a job and a half in terms of wiring etc.
https://youtu.be/ybRPBTotKMw
Wow, looks great! Does the chrome part stick on top of the lights then? (I hate it but can't see it on yours).https://youtu.be/ybRPBTotKMw
I'm halfway there with mine, as I tinted the clear bits but would be very interested if you would offer the installation service? Also, where did you get the lights and what was the cost?
Ill drop you a pm with all the details
Thanks
Edited by AlVal on Saturday 27th March 22:13
Currently retrofitting the £600 oem flat-bottom sport heated steering wheel which I found a great ebay bargain on, looks good, feels GREAT to drive with, and importantly contains the 'view' multifunction wheel button that I need to do the 'virtual cockpit' retrofit in future
but.. the existing clock spring only has the main connector which allows for airbag and multifunction buttons, it doesn't have the secondary connector needed to power the heated wheel
luckily I've found the required version at a german breakers, and it should be here soon..
So I sit scratching my head looking at the wiring diagrams to figure out how to rewire the car to accept this replacement clock spring (annoyingly, the heated wheel version clockspring has 14 pins instead of 16, and it's a different connector, pins moved around etc. Typical!)
Meanwhile making a start on the tv tuner retrofit, well at least the easy bits of it, and taking some photos as I go to help guide any future retrofitters
but.. the existing clock spring only has the main connector which allows for airbag and multifunction buttons, it doesn't have the secondary connector needed to power the heated wheel
luckily I've found the required version at a german breakers, and it should be here soon..
So I sit scratching my head looking at the wiring diagrams to figure out how to rewire the car to accept this replacement clock spring (annoyingly, the heated wheel version clockspring has 14 pins instead of 16, and it's a different connector, pins moved around etc. Typical!)
Meanwhile making a start on the tv tuner retrofit, well at least the easy bits of it, and taking some photos as I go to help guide any future retrofitters
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