2008 BMW X5 3.0sd E70
Discussion
This is my wife car, so this thread shouldn't be that active - watch that statement come to bite me in 6 months...
A couple of years ago, her front spring perch rusted through, pinning the spring to the tyre.
Recently, the rear subframe rusted through at the rear lower arm mounting, setting the rear lower arm free.
Fixed it all up, but it was new car time.
Despite never liking any of my cars before, she took a shine to my 335d - an automatic, some gadgets, larger engine. But it was too low and a little too small.
We settled on an SUV (I know Pistonheads isn't a fan, no hate please!) - a "full size" one was much bigger than we needed, but anything smaller either had a weedy engine or was really poor value.
The X3 was a sensible choice, but the E83 is a generation older and not much cheaper, and the F25 is much much more unless you want the N47 2.0 - and they are cheap for a reason.
Looking for an X5 at this end of the market was... unpleasant. Every single private example and/or seller looked super dodgy.
Found one at a dealer and thought it was worth a look, wasn't much more than a private sale but wasn't jumping out at me.
High mileage at 170k, but condition was better than my lower mileage car.
I though it was the "regular" 3.0 engine, but it's the 3.0sd, which is the same 280HP twin-turbo 3l diesel as in my 335d.
£16k of optional extras - inc HUD, soft close doors, sunroof, "adaptive drive" (electronically adjustable damping & antiroll bars).
A very short test drive later (thanks to 10 miles of fuel in the tank!) and we took it - either a very good example, or a very big mistake!
First impressions on the way home were:
It's very big,
Some wobble from the brakes under braking,
CCC SatNav is really rubbish,
£145 for a tank of fuel was a shock,
It doesn't feel anywhere near as quick as my 335d - but it's difficult to tell if it just hides it really well,
The third row of seats (7 seater) has a surprisingly complicated mechanism and is useless for anyone who has legs,
HUD is awesome.
A couple of years ago, her front spring perch rusted through, pinning the spring to the tyre.
Recently, the rear subframe rusted through at the rear lower arm mounting, setting the rear lower arm free.
Fixed it all up, but it was new car time.
Despite never liking any of my cars before, she took a shine to my 335d - an automatic, some gadgets, larger engine. But it was too low and a little too small.
We settled on an SUV (I know Pistonheads isn't a fan, no hate please!) - a "full size" one was much bigger than we needed, but anything smaller either had a weedy engine or was really poor value.
The X3 was a sensible choice, but the E83 is a generation older and not much cheaper, and the F25 is much much more unless you want the N47 2.0 - and they are cheap for a reason.
Looking for an X5 at this end of the market was... unpleasant. Every single private example and/or seller looked super dodgy.
Found one at a dealer and thought it was worth a look, wasn't much more than a private sale but wasn't jumping out at me.
High mileage at 170k, but condition was better than my lower mileage car.
I though it was the "regular" 3.0 engine, but it's the 3.0sd, which is the same 280HP twin-turbo 3l diesel as in my 335d.
£16k of optional extras - inc HUD, soft close doors, sunroof, "adaptive drive" (electronically adjustable damping & antiroll bars).
A very short test drive later (thanks to 10 miles of fuel in the tank!) and we took it - either a very good example, or a very big mistake!
First impressions on the way home were:
It's very big,
Some wobble from the brakes under braking,
CCC SatNav is really rubbish,
£145 for a tank of fuel was a shock,
It doesn't feel anywhere near as quick as my 335d - but it's difficult to tell if it just hides it really well,
The third row of seats (7 seater) has a surprisingly complicated mechanism and is useless for anyone who has legs,
HUD is awesome.
Edited by Jakg on Friday 16th September 23:28
Boring bits, phone holder, charger & dash cam fitted
The armrest cubby (like everything else on the car) is ginormous, but has one of the outdated snap-in phone holders taking up all the space.
Took it out and put a blank in it's place - the genuine BMW blank is like £100 so while this £8 3D printed one isn't perfect, it'll do.
Also fitted a budget bluetooth setup - a 3.5mm bluetooth receiver into the aux-in in the glovebox, and wired up some USB ports to power it. It's obviously not as functional as the CIC+Combox in my 335d, but it'll do for now.
The armrest cubby (like everything else on the car) is ginormous, but has one of the outdated snap-in phone holders taking up all the space.
Took it out and put a blank in it's place - the genuine BMW blank is like £100 so while this £8 3D printed one isn't perfect, it'll do.
Also fitted a budget bluetooth setup - a 3.5mm bluetooth receiver into the aux-in in the glovebox, and wired up some USB ports to power it. It's obviously not as functional as the CIC+Combox in my 335d, but it'll do for now.
Scan for faults and spot a DPF error - had the same on my 335d where the thermostat(s) fail, the engine doesn't ever warm up so the DPF doesn't regen.
On my 335d it was very clear as it never got past 60° C, but here it was getting up to 84° C - but still a little short of the 90° C it should get to.
They aren't expensive, and the coolant was due anyway so I changed them (there's two - one for the EGR cooler, one for the engine itself)
With the rad fan, cross-member and EGR cooler out a lot more room
Both thermostats were original, but the EGR one had a crack in the casing
And the main one had some nasty looking sealant around it
New thermostat bolts, and the EGR Thermostat got a new O-Ring (common failure point - as I found out on my 335d when I didn't swap it...)
Unfortunately once together, it became apparent the new EGR thermostat had a hairline crack in the housing that would leak only when under pressure, so had to use the old one again until a new-new one turned up
Still, warms up to 90-ish° C now and the DPF error has gone.
Hopefully it'll help the economy as well, although that's a bit of a lost cause...
On my 335d it was very clear as it never got past 60° C, but here it was getting up to 84° C - but still a little short of the 90° C it should get to.
They aren't expensive, and the coolant was due anyway so I changed them (there's two - one for the EGR cooler, one for the engine itself)
With the rad fan, cross-member and EGR cooler out a lot more room
Both thermostats were original, but the EGR one had a crack in the casing
And the main one had some nasty looking sealant around it
New thermostat bolts, and the EGR Thermostat got a new O-Ring (common failure point - as I found out on my 335d when I didn't swap it...)
Unfortunately once together, it became apparent the new EGR thermostat had a hairline crack in the housing that would leak only when under pressure, so had to use the old one again until a new-new one turned up
Still, warms up to 90-ish° C now and the DPF error has gone.
Hopefully it'll help the economy as well, although that's a bit of a lost cause...
Brake fluid was due for replacement and my tester was detecting water, so I got some new fluid.
I was organised enough to get some new stainless nipples to make it easier for next time, but for some reason the front calipers require extra long ones so I couldn't use them all
Getting all four wheels off the ground wasn't fun, either.
I have a lovely garage - but it's too big to fit in there.
I've never had a problem with my jack / axle stand heights, but max height on this barely gets the wheels off the ground.
Reminds me why I hate working on gravel!
To say thankyou for the preventative maintenance, one of the nipples immediately sheared
I'm 50% I could get it out without damaging the caliper, but I don't want to risk it without a spare in my hand.
Early 3.0sd's had a 365mm front brake setup, but later X5's seemed to switch to 348mm so they aren't no-brainer cheap.
I also think a disk is warped so I need to think some more about what I want to do... the G-series 4-pot calipers are supposed to be a straight swap...
I was organised enough to get some new stainless nipples to make it easier for next time, but for some reason the front calipers require extra long ones so I couldn't use them all
Getting all four wheels off the ground wasn't fun, either.
I have a lovely garage - but it's too big to fit in there.
I've never had a problem with my jack / axle stand heights, but max height on this barely gets the wheels off the ground.
Reminds me why I hate working on gravel!
To say thankyou for the preventative maintenance, one of the nipples immediately sheared
I'm 50% I could get it out without damaging the caliper, but I don't want to risk it without a spare in my hand.
Early 3.0sd's had a 365mm front brake setup, but later X5's seemed to switch to 348mm so they aren't no-brainer cheap.
I also think a disk is warped so I need to think some more about what I want to do... the G-series 4-pot calipers are supposed to be a straight swap...
Windscreen washers are rubbish.
I ultrasonically cleaned the jets but it didn't make a difference, so the next thing to check was the filter in the washer bottle.
Frustratingly, you can't get to the pumps with the front wing in situ (the bottle is behind the front wheel, inside the front wing), and you need to remove the side skirt to get the wing off.
So having removed the wheel, and then most of the wing bolts, and partially removing the sill trim gives you enough room to move everything out a bit to get at it all.
As expected, the pump filter was completely full of grunge
Unfortunatley it's not improved things much, though.
And when I put it back together, I've had to adjust the wing several times to get all the panel gaps kind of right so it doesn't look like it's had a massive shunt.
Most of the fixings are single use, and quite a lot were missing on this side only, so I don't think I'm the first person to investigate this.
Trim clip graveyard
I ultrasonically cleaned the jets but it didn't make a difference, so the next thing to check was the filter in the washer bottle.
Frustratingly, you can't get to the pumps with the front wing in situ (the bottle is behind the front wheel, inside the front wing), and you need to remove the side skirt to get the wing off.
So having removed the wheel, and then most of the wing bolts, and partially removing the sill trim gives you enough room to move everything out a bit to get at it all.
As expected, the pump filter was completely full of grunge
Unfortunatley it's not improved things much, though.
And when I put it back together, I've had to adjust the wing several times to get all the panel gaps kind of right so it doesn't look like it's had a massive shunt.
Most of the fixings are single use, and quite a lot were missing on this side only, so I don't think I'm the first person to investigate this.
Trim clip graveyard
Pica-Pica said:
A cracking example of why to use correct washer fluid mixture!
Luke. said:
Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but you have to use BMW's branded washer fluid.
I don't think the problem is non-genuine BMW screenwash, I think it's mixture of different types of screenwash that causes the gelling.TonyRPH said:
I had the exact same issue with my 325i (E46) - I cleaned the filter, put it back and tried the washers again - only to find the filter was once again clogged.
I had to remove the washer bottle and give it a thorough clean - but in my case the screen jets were completely gunged up as well - and I had to clean those too.
I've flushed the bottle so there's nothing solid left in there so hopefully won't happen again.I had to remove the washer bottle and give it a thorough clean - but in my case the screen jets were completely gunged up as well - and I had to clean those too.
New pump arrived today, tried it in the garage this time - the front half fits nicely at least.
You can see how everything comes out a bit at the front
Giving some room
New pump goes on
But the washers still suck, so I guess the jets are the problem.
Not all a waste of time though, turns out the rear washer pump is dead so could swap the old one onto there while it was apart, and back together with new clips.
Car has fancy auto dimming mirrors - but the magic fluid in one was making a bid for freedom and distorting the reflection.
Being an optional extra, the glass wasn't easy to find - £300 from the dealer - ended up finding a pair from China for £25.
Engine cover had some broken clips so a bag were ordered.
The car has xenon headlights, but the angel eyes are illuminated by a halogen bulb so are yellow - my E91 has white angel eyes and looks much better for it (I presume someone else fitted LEDs) so I fitted an LED kit from SMD Automotive. Pictures make it look blue but in reality it's a nice pure white.
Being an optional extra, the glass wasn't easy to find - £300 from the dealer - ended up finding a pair from China for £25.
Engine cover had some broken clips so a bag were ordered.
The car has xenon headlights, but the angel eyes are illuminated by a halogen bulb so are yellow - my E91 has white angel eyes and looks much better for it (I presume someone else fitted LEDs) so I fitted an LED kit from SMD Automotive. Pictures make it look blue but in reality it's a nice pure white.
Jakg said:
But the washers still suck, so I guess the jets are the problem.
New jets aren't cheap - they are a unique fitment to the pre-LCI model I think - so I ended up with a £20 AliExpress set. Finally I have decent washers!
Jakg said:
Some wobble from the brakes under braking
Jakg said:
Early 3.0sd's had a 365mm front brake setup, but later X5's seemed to switch to 348mm so they aren't no-brainer cheap.
I also think a disk is warped so I need to think some more about what I want to do... the G-series 4-pot calipers are supposed to be a straight swap...
Unfortunately missed out on a set of the G-series calipers, so standard it is I also think a disk is warped so I need to think some more about what I want to do... the G-series 4-pot calipers are supposed to be a straight swap...
Car has a wobble under braking, feels like a warped disc.
I'm aware discs aren't meant to warp, but if it's pad deposits, no amount of abuse was clearing it up, and I didn't see anything obviously wrong with any suspension components.
I was thinking maybe it was cheap discs or just overheating from hard stopping a >2 ton car and then holding it on the brakes at lights or something.
Discs off, backplate was loose so some repair washers put on:
2 pot sliding calipers is a new one on me
I replaced the slide bushes, discs and pads - the calipers themselves seemed fine, pistons pushed back ok etc. I was wondering if it could've been a bad caliper causing excess wear / heat.
The pads and discs were only about a third worn and were decent brands too (mintex pads, brembo discs), so that blew my "cheap parts" theory.
Slide pins were a bit crusty, so out comes my high precision lathe, which is totally not a socket in a drill with a clamp on the trigger
Came up ok though
All back together (not really much to see!)
Wobble seems to have gone - which suggests that the discs were the problem. But the real test will be if it comes back to find out the real root cause.
Jakg said:
To say thankyou for the preventative maintenance, one of the nipples immediately sheared
Tried some slightly more aggressive techniques, left handed drill bit and then an easyout, but no joy. Also tried tapping round with a chisel.I ended up hammering an (impact) torx bit in the hole and getting my impact gun on it... and the torx bit snapped.
So clearly it's in there very tight and has no intention of coming out - new caliper in the post.
I can't shake the feeling it doesn't feel very quick compared to my 335d with the same engine.
A common 335d problem is a leaking boost hose caused by failed o-rings. I've not heard this mentioned for the X5 but at least half the hose is shared with the 335d so I thought I'd try it anyway.
On my 335d it's done entirely from below, drop the undertray, intercooler and it's accessible.
I tried that here but all I got was some crossmembers and an antiroll bar, so I had to do it from above.
Inlet tract, upper crossmember, rad fan and coolant hose removed
Gives some access to the red boost hose
Removal was a bit of a pain - the car has the "dynamic drive" option with active antirollbars, which means they are massive and have a big actuator on them - and they are right behind the boost hose / intercooler connection, where the clip comes off.
Eventually got it out
On my 335d I replaced the hose itself with an aftermarket one, but no such product here - so just new BMW o-rings instead.
Re-installed with silicone lube but it's a pain to get it seated fully, but essential for the clip to actually hold it together, luckily I've had plenty of failed attempts on my 335d so I could work out what I was doing
Back together I can't say I notice any difference though...
Jakg said:
£145 for a tank of fuel was a shock
Last tank of fuel averaged 24.5 MPG which is... not great. Hence the drive to make sure the drivetrain is working properly.Edited by Jakg on Saturday 5th November 21:49
Jakg said:
So clearly it's in there very tight and has no intention of coming out - new caliper in the post..
New caliper fitted:
With the old caliper off the car I could get even more aggressive and got a larger easyout in the bleed nipple. Clamped the easy out in a vice and started turning the caliper and...
The arm of the vice cracked instead!
Good excuse to get something a little stronger - 1/2" ratchet for scale...
I've mentioned before the car has the "dynamic drive" option with active anti-roll bars - I realised these are hydraulic, using the power steering fluid.
I couldn't find a mention of the total system capacity, so using the turkey-baster method I swapped just over a litre of fluid out.
Left is new from the bottle (green), centre is what I pulled out after round 1 and right is after round 2 - it's definitely cleaning up but probably could do with another go.
Jakg said:
Last tank of fuel averaged 24.5 MPG which is... not great. Hence the drive to make sure the drivetrain is working properly.
Subsequent two tanks averaged 25.9 MPG so I'd like to think a slight improvement there.six wheels said:
How’s the X5 doing OP?
DPF warning flashed up on the dash, tried clearing the fault codes and it came back again.
I think it wasn't regenning due to the thermostats, hoping that a combo of DPF cleaner and clearing fault codes while on a long run will sort it.
One of the other fault codes was for the fuel pre-heater - some kind of heater attached to the fuel filter.
I don't know what problem it causes, it seems fine with it broken and nothing came up online but I found a second hand one - it'd been removed from the donor car by cutting the hoses, so when I tried to remove the hose from the unit itself, the barb on the unit just snapped off.
Annoying I've broken the new part, but it made me reconsider swapping the unit, as if I break the part on the car it's going to be very difficult to get it off the fuel line on the car!
Got a gearbox service kit to do at some point, I've done it on my 335d before, but I did it on the driveway in December and hated it. Even though I've got a garage, as it doesn't fit i'll have to do it with the door open and I don't fancy that in -5° C or whatever
Postman obliterated the mirror
Gave it a quick clean before it was swapped for a courtesy car
Cliched but both we both preferred the X5, which is good as a first generation XC60 D5 was on the original shortlist.
The new car is obviously quieter, more economical and the entertainment setup is several generations newer, but I just didn't gel with it. It was clearly a car designed for someone who doesn't really care about driving, which is fine if it does everything else really well - but if it doesn't it makes it way more obvious.
six wheels said:
Thank you for the update. I’m not sure if that’s swaying into, or out of considering on of these.
Yeah I did wonder if it might come across badly...So far we are really happy with the car.
Touch wood, no major faults and only some semi-preventative maintenance.
Fuel economy is pretty poor but we knew that going in.
I still think we made the right choice compared to the other choices on the market (i.e. mid or full size SUVs).
Jakg said:
DPF warning flashed up on the dash, tried clearing the fault codes and it came back again.
I think it wasn't regenning due to the thermostats, hoping that a combo of DPF cleaner and clearing fault codes while on a long run will sort it.
Seems to have sorted it out.I think it wasn't regenning due to the thermostats, hoping that a combo of DPF cleaner and clearing fault codes while on a long run will sort it.
Jakg said:
Got a gearbox service kit to do at some point, I've done it on my 335d before, but I did it on the driveway in December and hated it. Even though I've got a garage, as it doesn't fit i'll have to do it with the door open and I don't fancy that in -5° C or whatever
Got a chance to do this.The adaptations on the gearbox are fine (suggesting no wear issues), but it seemed hesitant to change up gears sometimes. My 335d has the same engine / gearbox and driving back to back it's immediately obvious. There's nothing in the service history to suggest it's been changed.
Plan was a service kit (i.e. oil, sump & mechatronic sleeve) + bridge & tube seals. Same as I did on my on my 335d - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I've measured my garage at 4.6m deep and Parkers has the length of an X5 at 4.85m, so i always thought it was too big.
I don't have a problem working on gravel, I did it for years, but this car is just too big to do that properly, you need to get the jack at basically full lift to get the wheels off the ground really at all.
I was nervous about doing it in the garage with the door open (or unable to be closed) because if something went wrong, I'd have an immobile 2 ton car stopping the garage door from being closed and secured with all my stuff on show.
So I did a lot of shunting around and somehow got it in...
It's tight - maybe 5cm at each end - but the door closes
I think my measurements were between the internal walls - but the door is flush with the external walls and much thinner than a brick wall, so you end up with a little more space on the inside.
Get to the sump to spot it's dated 2015 - so clearly it's already been changed. Wish I'd known that earlier, but I think it's the seals that are the problem anyway.
The rear sump bolts are obscured by a crossmember that the transfer case attaches to.
Using a cut down bit in a spanner I was able to get them out without removing anything.
Sump off
Mechatronic unit removed
Removed all the old seals from the transmission
The mechatronic sleeve was dated 2015 as well, so it's had a service before, but the bridge seal was dated 2007 so original. Tip on replacing the sleeve is to use a cable tie in a loop to "hook" around the top of the connectors' tab to help pull it down without damaging anything.
The tube seals were rock-solid, the new ones are squidgy and sit slightly proud to properly seal.
Bridge seal mating face had flattened off as well.
Really struggled to get the sump back on due to the crossmember - eventually found a trick where you can remove one bolt while supporting the transfer case with a jack and lift slightly to get more clearance and then it was a breeze. Would've saved hours if I'd done that from the start. The crossmember is only held on with a couple of bolts so in hindsight should've just removed it completely instead.
Put in about 3.5 litres of oil, then did the warm up process before final fill.
You can't monitor transmission temperature on the E70 using INPA for some reason, and the measurements from my IR thermometer were suspiciously low (like 25° C after nearly an hour), but luckily I'd kept a record from last time that from a similar ambient temperature, the gearbox was at 40° C when the coolant was at 65° C, so based it on that. Don't underestimate how long a car takes to warm up when it's just idling!
Another 3 litres of oil went in, so 6.5 litres total - last time I had a couple of litres spare, probably because I didn't swap the sump and it's integral oil filter. Hard work with the hand pump though.
Took it for a spin and it seems better. Changes are smooth (although not an issue before) and seems to hold the gears less. Still feels a bit slower to change up than my 335d though, but I'm guessing that's the gearbox managing an engine with the same torque, but with more weight and driveline losses to counteract.
Probably took me about 6 hours, which I know is very slow. But a lot of time spent trying to get the car jacked up properly, getting to the sump bolts and waiting for it to warm up to top up.
Overall - happy I've done it.
Edited by Jakg on Thursday 29th December 14:54
Jakg said:
Postman obliterated the mirror
Unbelievably a Transit tried to do the same thing to the mirror that's barely a month old. This time the X5 came off without a scratch!Had a *horrible* noise while driving, sounded like the exhaust had fallen off or something.
Checked underneath, nothing hanging off, springs all looked ok, but it sounded bad.
Got it in the garage
With the wheel off I could investigate properly
https://youtu.be/E2jP-_etEiI
Some poking around later and one small stone removed from between the disc and backplate and all fixed
New fuel filter - not terribly complicated but several large underbody panels to remove.
Finally got proper power in the garage to encourage me to use some decent task lighting.
Looks like that service existed on paper only...
Finally got proper power in the garage to encourage me to use some decent task lighting.
Jakg said:
The service book said it had last been serviced 3k miles / 3 years ago.
Something tells me this 2015-dated air filter has done more than 3k miles...
This was supposedly changed at the same time in (in 2019).Something tells me this 2015-dated air filter has done more than 3k miles...
Looks like that service existed on paper only...
Bought a second hand climbing frame - "buyer dismantles and collects".
No longer have access to a trailer so I took the passenger seat out etc to convert the car into a bit more of a van. It was quite big so I was worried I'd never be able to do it all in one trip.
Ended up easily fitting in the car, but only because taking the seat out had given me the length required
Home and reassembled (admittedly with some repairs) for a happy toddler
Unfortunately the car wasn't so lucky - when I put the passenger seat in, the whole seat was skewed such that you couldn't get the bolt holes lined up.
I tried moving the seats forwards backwards on the motor to see if it'd straighten up, but instead there was a grinding noise and this happened...
The seats have a motor on a cradle under the seat to move it forwards and backwards, and this connects to a mechanism in each seat rail via a pair of flexible driveshafts, which are stranded crimped into a square drive. The end on one had disintegrated.
The passenger electric seat has always been temperamental - it only moved a little very slowly before stopping, and then a few seconds later you could try again and slowly inch it back. I think someone had had it out before, misaligned the rails and then used brute force to bolt it back into the car - and the drive cables were the thing that broke first.
Unfortunately, the cables aren't available separately - BMW class them as part of the seat frame. Luckily I was able to find a second hand motor and cradle, which included the drive shaft I needed
With the cradle out, aligned the rails by eye, manually operating the mechanism on either side. Then fitted the new driveshaft, reassembled.
Not only did the seat bolt in fine, but it now moves backwards and forwards normally too - so overall another job off the list.
To celebrate, a wash. Step ladder unfortunately required to clean the roof!
No longer have access to a trailer so I took the passenger seat out etc to convert the car into a bit more of a van. It was quite big so I was worried I'd never be able to do it all in one trip.
Ended up easily fitting in the car, but only because taking the seat out had given me the length required
Home and reassembled (admittedly with some repairs) for a happy toddler
Unfortunately the car wasn't so lucky - when I put the passenger seat in, the whole seat was skewed such that you couldn't get the bolt holes lined up.
I tried moving the seats forwards backwards on the motor to see if it'd straighten up, but instead there was a grinding noise and this happened...
The seats have a motor on a cradle under the seat to move it forwards and backwards, and this connects to a mechanism in each seat rail via a pair of flexible driveshafts, which are stranded crimped into a square drive. The end on one had disintegrated.
The passenger electric seat has always been temperamental - it only moved a little very slowly before stopping, and then a few seconds later you could try again and slowly inch it back. I think someone had had it out before, misaligned the rails and then used brute force to bolt it back into the car - and the drive cables were the thing that broke first.
Unfortunately, the cables aren't available separately - BMW class them as part of the seat frame. Luckily I was able to find a second hand motor and cradle, which included the drive shaft I needed
With the cradle out, aligned the rails by eye, manually operating the mechanism on either side. Then fitted the new driveshaft, reassembled.
Not only did the seat bolt in fine, but it now moves backwards and forwards normally too - so overall another job off the list.
To celebrate, a wash. Step ladder unfortunately required to clean the roof!
It's possible, but highly not recommended, to fit 2x 2.7x0.6m boards in the car.
Got some time to take the inlet manifold off
Air filter housing out of the way
Fuel line looking a bit crusty...
Inlet manifold off
Luckily BMW got a new fuel line same day
New glow plugs (one was dead)
With the inlet manifold off, can see someones already removed the swirl flaps - personally I would've kept them.
Unfortunately you can see from the oil that they are leaking
Amazon got me a set of proper metal blanks for £9 - the old swirl flaps had been cut down and then a nut & bolt put through to blank off the spindle.
Cleaned, reassembled and new gaskets
With the inlet manifold off, swapped some of the inaccessible vacuum lines - condition wasn't great
Got some time to take the inlet manifold off
Air filter housing out of the way
Fuel line looking a bit crusty...
Inlet manifold off
Luckily BMW got a new fuel line same day
New glow plugs (one was dead)
With the inlet manifold off, can see someones already removed the swirl flaps - personally I would've kept them.
Unfortunately you can see from the oil that they are leaking
Amazon got me a set of proper metal blanks for £9 - the old swirl flaps had been cut down and then a nut & bolt put through to blank off the spindle.
Cleaned, reassembled and new gaskets
With the inlet manifold off, swapped some of the inaccessible vacuum lines - condition wasn't great
Bobupndown said:
Jakg said:
Bobupndown said:
What was the original car with the snapped rear suspension?
Kia C'eed
Edited by Jakg on Tuesday 8th August 09:40
Original bonnet badge delaminated
Replaced with a cheap one off eBay
Poor personal planning means it needs an oil change, but the immobile X6 is still hogging the garage, so it was back to working on the gravel, in the rain, in the dark. Not as bad as I thought it'd be.
Replaced with a cheap one off eBay
Poor personal planning means it needs an oil change, but the immobile X6 is still hogging the garage, so it was back to working on the gravel, in the rain, in the dark. Not as bad as I thought it'd be.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff