Help Please My Crazy Heaters
Discussion
Sounds like the Heater Control Unit. Metal box about 10cm square above the passenger foot well. A known source of trouble. Mine used to give me intermittent cabin heater/fans or sometimes fans that would not turn off.
Should be easy to get to, just find it and unplug the multi-pin electrical connector. Some people on the forum suggest sending it way to have a duff connection repaired. I took mine apart and cleaned up the circuit board and removed any corrosion from the contacts (internal and external). I also found a very small piece of solder, about 1mm round, that was stuck between two contacts. It must have been rattling around shorting across various connections.
Should be easy to get to, just find it and unplug the multi-pin electrical connector. Some people on the forum suggest sending it way to have a duff connection repaired. I took mine apart and cleaned up the circuit board and removed any corrosion from the contacts (internal and external). I also found a very small piece of solder, about 1mm round, that was stuck between two contacts. It must have been rattling around shorting across various connections.
scruggs said:
Sounds like the Heater Control Unit. Metal box about 10cm square above the passenger foot well. A known source of trouble. Mine used to give me intermittent cabin heater/fans or sometimes fans that would not turn off.
Should be easy to get to, just find it and unplug the multi-pin electrical connector. Some people on the forum suggest sending it way to have a duff connection repaired. I took mine apart and cleaned up the circuit board and removed any corrosion from the contacts (internal and external). I also found a very small piece of solder, about 1mm round, that was stuck between two contacts. It must have been rattling around shorting across various connections.
Thanks mate i will give it a clean up tomorrow.TVR's do so funny things.Should be easy to get to, just find it and unplug the multi-pin electrical connector. Some people on the forum suggest sending it way to have a duff connection repaired. I took mine apart and cleaned up the circuit board and removed any corrosion from the contacts (internal and external). I also found a very small piece of solder, about 1mm round, that was stuck between two contacts. It must have been rattling around shorting across various connections.
I'm glad someone brought this up.
Does anyone know if the vents on the MK1 steering cluster should blow hot air? - Mine just blow cold.
Also noticed the Air con is much colder on left most dash vent and gets progressively weaker across to the right.
Is this common on Tuscan or does it sound like a fault?
Does anyone know if the vents on the MK1 steering cluster should blow hot air? - Mine just blow cold.
Also noticed the Air con is much colder on left most dash vent and gets progressively weaker across to the right.
Is this common on Tuscan or does it sound like a fault?
I have only had mine working for a week but the driver vents appear to be linked to the aircon.
The HCU is dismantled this way.
On the end of the unit opposite the multi pin connector undo the 4 black screws and remove the cover plate. This gives you a better view.
Half way down one side of the unit you will find a silver nut, on the opposite side is a hole through which you put your screwdriver to undo the screw attached. Catch the nut and drop the screw out of the unit (if it wants to). All this does is fasten the heat sink to the casing but a secondary effect is to secure the circuit board.
At the connector end undo the 4 black screws (not the 2 silver ones) and the circuit board should drop out.
Check that the 2 silver screws/nuts alongside the multi pin connector are done up tight, they can work loose.
A magnifying glass would be useful to check the row of several connectors on the edge of the circuit board for corrosion and bridging. On mine two connectors were intentionally 'bridged' together but any more need to be checked as loose metallic crap appears to be common place.
Clean up the board and connectors with yuor favourite abrasive, corrosion and crud promote electrical tracking.
Re-assembly needs to be via the heat sink screw first using a pair of tweezers to feed the screw through the heat sink, through the casing and secured by the nut.
Then refit the end plate screws.
Job took me 20 minutes.
The HCU is dismantled this way.
On the end of the unit opposite the multi pin connector undo the 4 black screws and remove the cover plate. This gives you a better view.
Half way down one side of the unit you will find a silver nut, on the opposite side is a hole through which you put your screwdriver to undo the screw attached. Catch the nut and drop the screw out of the unit (if it wants to). All this does is fasten the heat sink to the casing but a secondary effect is to secure the circuit board.
At the connector end undo the 4 black screws (not the 2 silver ones) and the circuit board should drop out.
Check that the 2 silver screws/nuts alongside the multi pin connector are done up tight, they can work loose.
A magnifying glass would be useful to check the row of several connectors on the edge of the circuit board for corrosion and bridging. On mine two connectors were intentionally 'bridged' together but any more need to be checked as loose metallic crap appears to be common place.
Clean up the board and connectors with yuor favourite abrasive, corrosion and crud promote electrical tracking.
Re-assembly needs to be via the heat sink screw first using a pair of tweezers to feed the screw through the heat sink, through the casing and secured by the nut.
Then refit the end plate screws.
Job took me 20 minutes.
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