Front Diff Bushes - Lock Nuts
Discussion
d to get to! If you think getting a spanner on them is tough wait till you round them and have to get a dremel on them! Good luckManaged to remove the passenger side front diff plate by gradually turning the upper bolt clockwise then anticlockwise repeatedly over about two hours.
As luck would have it the rubber bush in the passenger side plate seems to be in perfect condition.
Unfortunately this has not worked with the drivers side bolt, it simply refuses to move at all, but it is obvious that the bush in this plate has completely failed, allowing the diff to move about easily.
I am trying to think through methods of removing the bolt destructively, perhaps by cutting through the plate itself, but nothing is really proving obvious.
Any suggestions welcome.
As luck would have it the rubber bush in the passenger side plate seems to be in perfect condition.
Unfortunately this has not worked with the drivers side bolt, it simply refuses to move at all, but it is obvious that the bush in this plate has completely failed, allowing the diff to move about easily.
I am trying to think through methods of removing the bolt destructively, perhaps by cutting through the plate itself, but nothing is really proving obvious.
Any suggestions welcome.
portzi said:
It's just the situation l am in and yours is probably different?
If you don't have to work weekends and have time on your hands thats great. I would rather work a full day Saturday and half day Sunday , than being stuck under my car and not getting anywhere with the car, and loosing out on a day and a half's pay at time and a half, and double time on a Sunday morning.
2 - 3 hours labour l reckon for a decent TVR Garage, and of course the VAT on top.
Just found myself watching Fifth Gear recently aired 15/06/17 on Quest, watching an item on a Tamora which mentions failed rear diff bushes - "Budget for £500"If you don't have to work weekends and have time on your hands thats great. I would rather work a full day Saturday and half day Sunday , than being stuck under my car and not getting anywhere with the car, and loosing out on a day and a half's pay at time and a half, and double time on a Sunday morning.
2 - 3 hours labour l reckon for a decent TVR Garage, and of course the VAT on top.
Edited by portzi on Sunday 2nd July 19:30
If I had paid someone else for all the work I've done on my car over the last five years (including two twin head gasket replacements, three T5WC repairs, suspension rebuilds, clutch repairs, cooling system overhauls, several valve shim fixes, brake caliper repairs, plus many other less memorable jobs) then I would be bankrupt several times over by now.
Sure, my car has a slightly harder life than most, because it mainly does DN events, but that is why I bought it.
Edited by ukkid35 on Sunday 2nd July 19:46
The economic theory of Specialisation suggests that I should concentrate on my day job, because that is where I'm most productive and efficient, and pay someone else to do things that I suck at.
However, I have always thought that was very simplistic, because it doesn't take in to account the fact that I can take much more time over car stuff, and perhaps even do parts of that project more effectively than someone who has a ratecard/quote to adhere to.
More importantly I means I am in control of costs incurred, which is rarely the case when you hand over your car to someone else.
If you really want to see how that works, try comparing buying a house using a solicitor/conveyancer with doing the conveyancing yourself.
However, I have always thought that was very simplistic, because it doesn't take in to account the fact that I can take much more time over car stuff, and perhaps even do parts of that project more effectively than someone who has a ratecard/quote to adhere to.
More importantly I means I am in control of costs incurred, which is rarely the case when you hand over your car to someone else.
If you really want to see how that works, try comparing buying a house using a solicitor/conveyancer with doing the conveyancing yourself.
Edited by ukkid35 on Sunday 2nd July 22:44
aide said:
Paul, if you need a hand I'm free any evening this week except Thursday.
Aide
Aide - that's very kind of you!Aide
However, I've given up on this for now as I absolutely have to finish getting the car ready for a trip to Germany next week.
Should have it back on the ground by midnight tonight, unfortunately not many opportunities for a shakedown before leaving on Tuesday next week.
Looking forward to seeing how the freshly rebuilt T5WC performs, I'm expecting it to be a little noisy at first. The change (when static/engine off) is very firm but precise, which must be due to the new springs/pads etc.
FarmyardPants said:
Don't forget the oil 
Thankfully it's usually the PS fluid that I forget, but this time it was nearly the PS return hose clip that I forgot.It's still on axle stands, but in my defence I have done a full brake pad change (front and rear) and bled the brakes with the help of my GF who is the best at this. She will always report pedal feel perfectly, whichever car, whether brake or clutch - awesome!
Thanks Alex - much appreciated!
Last night I noticed that the diff output flanges seem to be wider than the chassis rails.
If that is the case then presumably the diff has to be tilted sideways in order to extract it from the car.
That I find worrying, because I can't hardly pick up the spare diff I have, it is just too heavy for me.
Can anyone confirm whether the diff will drop straight through, or does it need to be guided out?
Last night I noticed that the diff output flanges seem to be wider than the chassis rails.
If that is the case then presumably the diff has to be tilted sideways in order to extract it from the car.
That I find worrying, because I can't hardly pick up the spare diff I have, it is just too heavy for me.
Can anyone confirm whether the diff will drop straight through, or does it need to be guided out?
Last night I managed to remove the remaining obstinate lock nut
With the prop-shaft removed, I used a 19mm Stubby pointing up vertically, and then used a selection of three foot levers to break the nut free
Prior to that I had tried using my Clarke electric impact wrench on the bolt using forward/reverse to break it free, but with no luck
I have even managed to find the other two nylon bushes that I bought when changing the rear bush - result!
However, I can't decide whether to use them, or to use proper rubber bushes for improved refinement (less vibration, more shock resistance, etc)
Any thoughts?
With the prop-shaft removed, I used a 19mm Stubby pointing up vertically, and then used a selection of three foot levers to break the nut free
Prior to that I had tried using my Clarke electric impact wrench on the bolt using forward/reverse to break it free, but with no luck
I have even managed to find the other two nylon bushes that I bought when changing the rear bush - result!
However, I can't decide whether to use them, or to use proper rubber bushes for improved refinement (less vibration, more shock resistance, etc)
Any thoughts?
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff