Advice - To remove rocker covers?
Discussion
I'm just embarking on the long list of tidying little things up in the engine bay, and quite fancy getting the rocker covers (AJP 4.5) powder coated, as they look severely neglected however having a quick squint at the workshop manual, it would seem it might not be so straight forward?
Is this fairly easy to do? I was hoping it was a case of just undoing the cover bolts then lifting off the covers but i see there is mention of only taking one cover off at a time... Would i be correct in thinking there is no gasket its just silicone sealant?
Any advice or words of wisdom would be appreciated.
Is this fairly easy to do? I was hoping it was a case of just undoing the cover bolts then lifting off the covers but i see there is mention of only taking one cover off at a time... Would i be correct in thinking there is no gasket its just silicone sealant?
Any advice or words of wisdom would be appreciated.
No gasket, just sealant, and no easy or obvious place to lever them off to break the seal.
The main risk in removing the covers is that you accidentally drop something down the front of the timing cover.
Once the covers are removed it would be remiss not to check the valve clearances.
Getting them blasted and coated definitely does freshen the engine bay, and it's not too expensive to do so.
The problem with powder coating is that it is difficult to know when to stop
The main risk in removing the covers is that you accidentally drop something down the front of the timing cover.
Once the covers are removed it would be remiss not to check the valve clearances.
Getting them blasted and coated definitely does freshen the engine bay, and it's not too expensive to do so.
The problem with powder coating is that it is difficult to know when to stop
I am in the middle of doing this for the first time on an AJP8, and I am a novice when it comes to mechanics but I managed to strip the top down with out any issues and taking the rocker covers off was easy also. Once you have removed all the bolts give it a few taps with a rubber mallet and they will start to move then just lift them off.
putting it all back together will be the hard bit I am thinking!
I had the fuel rail and air intakes powder coated black but the rocker covers I am having painted the same colour as the car.
putting it all back together will be the hard bit I am thinking!
I had the fuel rail and air intakes powder coated black but the rocker covers I am having painted the same colour as the car.
ukkid35 said:
No gasket, just sealant, and no easy or obvious place to lever them off to break the seal.
The main risk in removing the covers is that you accidentally drop something down the front of the timing cover.
Once the covers are removed it would be remiss not to check the valve clearances.
Getting them blasted and coated definitely does freshen the engine bay, and it's not too expensive to do so.
The problem with powder coating is that it is difficult to know when to stop
Where did you get the heat protection from for the wires etc and what size?The main risk in removing the covers is that you accidentally drop something down the front of the timing cover.
Once the covers are removed it would be remiss not to check the valve clearances.
Getting them blasted and coated definitely does freshen the engine bay, and it's not too expensive to do so.
The problem with powder coating is that it is difficult to know when to stop
Poopdog said:
Where did you get the heat protection from for the wires etc and what size?
16mm Fire Sleeve Braid Flame Heat Reflective Shieldhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251436713742
Also
Make sure you clean and oil out of the cam cover bolt boss. When the bolt goes back in it can crack the boss with hydraulic force if any oil is present. Cotton buds are usefull
Don't be surprised if a couple of threads are damaged, m6x1 & m8x 1.25 heilcoils/v coil etc are useful. Good time to replace cap head bolts with stainless fittings.
On refitting I torqued the bolts lower than stated in the manual as some rtv/silicone gets drawn onto the bolt threads and can give false torque figures.
Hth
Make sure you clean and oil out of the cam cover bolt boss. When the bolt goes back in it can crack the boss with hydraulic force if any oil is present. Cotton buds are usefull
Don't be surprised if a couple of threads are damaged, m6x1 & m8x 1.25 heilcoils/v coil etc are useful. Good time to replace cap head bolts with stainless fittings.
On refitting I torqued the bolts lower than stated in the manual as some rtv/silicone gets drawn onto the bolt threads and can give false torque figures.
Hth
Thanks for all the help
A quick couple of follow ups, does anyone have the bolt sizes and is it safe to replace them with stainless?
The second question is a bit of a odd one, I've owned the car now for six years and she's been running just fine... Yet i see on the workshop manual there should be a passive air pressure sensor pipe connected to the N/S airbox (this explains the small hole at that end i found a while back) I don't see any loose hoses in the engine bay and none of the garages over the years i've taken it to have mentioned this... Anyone else had this connection & pipe go missing?
A quick couple of follow ups, does anyone have the bolt sizes and is it safe to replace them with stainless?
The second question is a bit of a odd one, I've owned the car now for six years and she's been running just fine... Yet i see on the workshop manual there should be a passive air pressure sensor pipe connected to the N/S airbox (this explains the small hole at that end i found a while back) I don't see any loose hoses in the engine bay and none of the garages over the years i've taken it to have mentioned this... Anyone else had this connection & pipe go missing?
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