Cerbera Manual - Valve clearance procedure

[Wolvesboy]

Hi All,
Having measured my 4.5's valves I definitely need to rub down/ replace some shims.

1) Please correct me if I'm wrong: the above Cerbera manual uses the cam timing on pages 19+ irrespective of TDC?

2) Why bother manually getting TDC (ie bubble method) if the cam is moved to the front overlap lobe position ---- again to check the rear lobes ---- then again for the "Safe" position?

3) What is this "safe" position? I'm presuming all of the lobes will be away from the buckets and therefore the cam can be easily placed back into position?

4) Upon replacing the cam it seems there is no reference point to use as the sprocket has been moved 1.5 teeth along!

5) I'm worried the chain will fall off the lower sprocket if the tensioner goes a little too far as well.

Talk about a faff! Unbelievable messing about.

[Wolvesboy]

Thanks fellas.

So --- am I correct that I get TDC for piston 1, mark up, then set the cam timing off the front lobes (ideally even)?

Get the rear cam lobes at even, then rotate the cam sprocket 1.5 teeth to get the "safe' position?

Anybody have any photos of measuring the cam lobe positions please? I've never used a DTi and the manual uses a solid bar!

Cheers.

[Wolvesboy]

So just as good/tricky marking up and removing cam using TDC position without going to "safe" position? I think another bar across the cam to stop it springing up may be used.

Any photos anyone of tool used to check lobe for 1.5 gap or even positions?

Thanks

[Wolvesboy]

Thanks.

So easy to check level lobes then? - I didn't want to say just a visual as too easy to be shot down!

I have 6 inlet valves showing lees than optimal positions:

1 - 0.17mm 2 - 0.1mm. All the exhaust valves are 0.30mm!
3 - 0.2mm. 4 - 0.2mm
5 - 0.08mm 6 - 0.25mm ok
7 - closed/zero. 8 - 0.25mm ok

Obviously inlets 5 + 7 are pretty bad and could be easily contributing to my poor running/ chugging under load etc. I hope I can grind the shims down but no.7 is a worry as I don't want to mess about with valve stems etc.

Exhaust presently being crack repaired and I'm going to use ACT exhaust gaskets to ensure a proper seal.

Weather is picking up nicely here (sorry!) and cannot wait to see the results of all this plus my decats. Flames out of the exhaust please!

[Wolvesboy]

I’m sure I’ve read somewhere that the shims are through hardened?

[Wolvesboy]

I think Ive got a problem or two. The exhausts are all good at 0.3 everywhere.

The shims for my inlets are already pretty thin:

Actual clearance (mm) Shim thickness (mm)
1 0.17 1.75

3 0.2 1.91

5 0.08 1.51

7 closed 1.53

2 0.17 1.52

4 0.2 2.54

6 0.25 okay

8 0.25 okay

I'm wondering what to do now. Does this mean new valves are needed?

[Wolvesboy]

Aw jeez, I didn't want that. FFS really frustrated now.
I'm thinking this must be a trait for every Cerb that has any decent miles as the valves WILL stretch to the point where shims can no longer be adjusted. MIne has about 104k miles (not sure as the mileometer stopped a while ago on 99k!).

[Wolvesboy]

1998

[Wolvesboy]

Aw jeez, I didn't want that. FFS really frustrated now.
I'm thinking this must be a trait for every Cerb that has any decent miles as the valves WILL stretch to the point where shims can no longer be adjusted. MIne has about 104k miles (not sure as the mileometer stopped a while ago on 99k!).

[Wolvesboy]

Just an observation really and I’m pretty disappointed with yet another item beyond expectation needing repair. I don’t need to have been in the Cerbera scene for 20 years to feel that way!

[Wolvesboy]

Just an observation really and I’m pretty disappointed with yet another item beyond expectation needing repair. I don’t need to have been in the Cerbera scene for 20 years to feel that way!