Alternator issues & inlet manifolds sealing?
Discussion
4.5 (Apologies for the long post)
1) Alternator: battery light very faint on idle, brightness increases with revs. Still charges, checked voltage at idle & 2k revs - all good. Changed big fuse. Visibly checked wiring and belt, still the same issue.
Removed alt - right royal pita! I’ve now bench tested the alt. and it charges battery with switch from B+ working also. Seems the black wire from car to B+ was broken and held on by the rubber seal as the plug end was left on the alt with very little hold upon removal - could this be the issue???
2) inlet manifolds: had to remove anyway (along with fuel rail and A/C module, brackets coil, leads etc). Used a cut down Allen key as access limited without this. Cleaned inlet body and surface as terrible condition. I’m thinking a very small line of gasket sealant is the way to go as the o rings look good but don’t really seem to protrude very far at all. I’m thinking this may also stop my throttle pot readings from bouncing all over the place with a guaranteed air tight seal. Interesting no spacers needed anywhere and not present!
The valley where the alt. sits was absolutely full of gunk. The whole area is filthy and it is a subject of derision from my mates as why would anyone put an alternator there in the first place (heat, access, gunk etc etc)!?
Any ideas or thoughts? Input appreciated.
1) Alternator: battery light very faint on idle, brightness increases with revs. Still charges, checked voltage at idle & 2k revs - all good. Changed big fuse. Visibly checked wiring and belt, still the same issue.
Removed alt - right royal pita! I’ve now bench tested the alt. and it charges battery with switch from B+ working also. Seems the black wire from car to B+ was broken and held on by the rubber seal as the plug end was left on the alt with very little hold upon removal - could this be the issue???
2) inlet manifolds: had to remove anyway (along with fuel rail and A/C module, brackets coil, leads etc). Used a cut down Allen key as access limited without this. Cleaned inlet body and surface as terrible condition. I’m thinking a very small line of gasket sealant is the way to go as the o rings look good but don’t really seem to protrude very far at all. I’m thinking this may also stop my throttle pot readings from bouncing all over the place with a guaranteed air tight seal. Interesting no spacers needed anywhere and not present!
The valley where the alt. sits was absolutely full of gunk. The whole area is filthy and it is a subject of derision from my mates as why would anyone put an alternator there in the first place (heat, access, gunk etc etc)!?
Any ideas or thoughts? Input appreciated.
Thanks for the input fellas.
The throttle bodies are completely in the way of the outside bolts - an amended Allen key was the only way for me. God awful design throughout.
I’ve sealed the inlet body to the “gasket” and then that to the head - I cannot see it being a good seal otherwise even though my O rings were in very good knick. As a test I only did this to my odd bank. I’m looking forward to the results.
Access to the alternator is a joke too. Engineering mates who also tinker cannot believe the location/ set up (heat, changing belt access etc is laughable). Personally, I recommend anyone attempting to remove the alternator, removes the A/C body and bracket then the driver’s side inlet manifold at the very least. I ended up removing the alternator bracket AND the fuel rail as they are completely in the way.
The idea of removing both inlet manifolds with the fuel rail intact is a great idea BUT with the outward pressure of the injectors on the inlet manifolds I can see getting them back on would be very difficult - esp with those outside bolts as mentioned earlier. I stand to be corrected though!
I ended up re routing the top fuel line as well and had to double check everything else (leads, belts, connections etc) as easily dislodged during the process.
Fingers crossed it all works ok this morning.
Phew, I need a strong cup of tea!
The throttle bodies are completely in the way of the outside bolts - an amended Allen key was the only way for me. God awful design throughout.
I’ve sealed the inlet body to the “gasket” and then that to the head - I cannot see it being a good seal otherwise even though my O rings were in very good knick. As a test I only did this to my odd bank. I’m looking forward to the results.
Access to the alternator is a joke too. Engineering mates who also tinker cannot believe the location/ set up (heat, changing belt access etc is laughable). Personally, I recommend anyone attempting to remove the alternator, removes the A/C body and bracket then the driver’s side inlet manifold at the very least. I ended up removing the alternator bracket AND the fuel rail as they are completely in the way.
The idea of removing both inlet manifolds with the fuel rail intact is a great idea BUT with the outward pressure of the injectors on the inlet manifolds I can see getting them back on would be very difficult - esp with those outside bolts as mentioned earlier. I stand to be corrected though!
I ended up re routing the top fuel line as well and had to double check everything else (leads, belts, connections etc) as easily dislodged during the process.
Fingers crossed it all works ok this morning.
Phew, I need a strong cup of tea!
Turned it over - BANG backfire - #2 & #4 leads needed swapping!
Checked all of the lines and no leaks, perfect.
However, mu initial problem with my alternator persists. The battery light is still faint on idle & glows brighter with increasing revs. I’m going to recheck my black wire again as I crimped it rather than soldering it.
Other than that I’m stuck!
Checked all of the lines and no leaks, perfect.
However, mu initial problem with my alternator persists. The battery light is still faint on idle & glows brighter with increasing revs. I’m going to recheck my black wire again as I crimped it rather than soldering it.
Other than that I’m stuck!
Soldered the black wire....... battery light still doing it’s thing.
Really, REALLY pissed off now. My even bank is playing up once more - the throttle pot will not adjust below +15 so running rich again. Engine running like a dog with no adjustment possible. I cannot believe the lambda sensor could have been fouled so much by 5 mins of driving trying to get it up temps. Then my doors wouldn’t open. Then the passenger side rear is now whining.
REALLY sick of this pos now. I think I’ve actually only driven it about 10 times in the last 6 months because something always goes wrong each time I drive it. Absolute pos.
Really, REALLY pissed off now. My even bank is playing up once more - the throttle pot will not adjust below +15 so running rich again. Engine running like a dog with no adjustment possible. I cannot believe the lambda sensor could have been fouled so much by 5 mins of driving trying to get it up temps. Then my doors wouldn’t open. Then the passenger side rear is now whining.
REALLY sick of this pos now. I think I’ve actually only driven it about 10 times in the last 6 months because something always goes wrong each time I drive it. Absolute pos.
I’ve removed the alternator again - this time undoing the inlets both sides and lifting both sides with the rail attached up & away.
Seems a pretty good way of removing stuff BUT getting it back on in reverse will be a shocker as access is poor. Then attaching the leads etc through the fuel rail will be a pita.
I’m taking the alt to get it properly tested tomorrow - fingers crossed as I hope this is the issue as I don’t fancy tracing wires all over the place.
Seems a pretty good way of removing stuff BUT getting it back on in reverse will be a shocker as access is poor. Then attaching the leads etc through the fuel rail will be a pita.
I’m taking the alt to get it properly tested tomorrow - fingers crossed as I hope this is the issue as I don’t fancy tracing wires all over the place.
Ok, alternator diodes and voltage regulator stuffed. Quoted $100 for each part plus labour with a new one coming in at $400 minimum.
My mates got a Griffith 500 alternator (same numbers A1271 100A) and having adjusted a 24mm to get the spindle off, it fits perfectly.
I’ve re fitted the fuel rail assembly as one - my initial concerns about it not fitting were overcome with gentle moving and aligning each bolt and tightening slightly. Ensuring every bolt was screwed in enabled me to tighten up. Worked a treat with no messing about trying to squeeze injectors on.
She now runs sweet having warmed up and adjusted again.
Cheers fellas.
My mates got a Griffith 500 alternator (same numbers A1271 100A) and having adjusted a 24mm to get the spindle off, it fits perfectly.
I’ve re fitted the fuel rail assembly as one - my initial concerns about it not fitting were overcome with gentle moving and aligning each bolt and tightening slightly. Ensuring every bolt was screwed in enabled me to tighten up. Worked a treat with no messing about trying to squeeze injectors on.
She now runs sweet having warmed up and adjusted again.
Cheers fellas.
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