Brake bleed nipples

[TT Tim]

Okay, it's official, my car hates me!

I'm replacing the flexi-hoses on my car, and obviously have to remove the calipers to fit the new hoses.

Well, the bleed nipples are welded solid in the calipers, 2 have sheared so far on one caliper with very little effort!

So, my question is how best to remove the offending nipples, do AP Racing offer a rebuild service, and if so how much? I'm going to so much effort with all of this I think I'm looking at getting all 4 rebuilt and nipples replaced.

Getting Peed off with this Everything else is going so smoothly

Tim

Edited by TT Tim on Sunday 17th February 14:42

[TT Tim]

Ta Windsor and Mike,

What thread is the nipple?

I did see a different type of bleed nipple a while back, with a kind of snap connector, but I can't find it now

Tim

[TT Tim]

Okay, so why is the M10 x 1 Recoil kit so expensive?

Have gone for that size so I can use s/s bleed screws, no more rust!

In for a Penny, in for a Pound. I guess.

Tim

[TT Tim]

julian64 said:

Blowtorch, and pipefreeze, never fails.

Julian, I only applied the minimal torque and the just sheered off.

Even the one I heated to red hot and then sprayed with WD40

So, only option now is to drill and rethread.

I'm doing all 8 so i know they're done. With s/s inserts I can safely use s/s bleed screws.

Tim

[TT Tim]

julian64 said:

Is the caliper in a state where you can bring it to me?

2 nipples on the front n/s have sheered, the o/s front is okay as these were changed 2 yrs ago, as Austec broke one and they were spark eroded. The rear o/s has one sheered. It was at this point I started to weep and though it best to find another job to do before I broke something else. The nipples are so sort they're like plastacine.

As for retapping, my idea is top replace with s/s nipples, so didn't want s/s and alloy, and thought s/s insert and s/s nipple was a better idea.

Would love to bring up the rear calipers to witness your 'technique' for future ref.

You haven't got a large pillar drill as well have you? Mine is small and i may have to 'improvise' when drilling out the broken nipples!

Thanks again

Tim

[TT Tim]

Julian,

If the new bleed nipples have turned up, can I pop over on Thursday PM please>

Would welcome your help.

Tim

[TT Tim]

julian64 said:

TT Tim said:

Julian,

If the new bleed nipples have turned up, can I pop over on Thursday PM please>

Would welcome your help.

Tim

Yep, anytime after midday.

Thanks, the bleed nipples have just turned up in today's post, so I'll see you Thursday afternoon.

Tim

[TT Tim]

Julian,

Thanks very much for your help, and sorry for taking up your whole afternoon off!.

I'm still tied between helicoiling and not. I used to be indicisive, now I'm not too sure.

Will get a tap and see how I get on.

Tim

[TT Tim]

So, a follow up.

Thanks to Julian's help we removed the old bleed screws that were intact using his heat and freeze method, and yes it works a treat. Wish I'd tried that before breaking three of the buggers!

Here's a pic of a very rusty bleed screw:



We're guessing that it's got that much rust due to brake fluid being hydrascopic and therefore holding water. We may be wrong but I couldn't see any other explanation.

It was my intention to helicoil the holes, but Julian did such a good job of drilling them that I don't think I'm going to need to.

I have ordered a seal kit, new bleed screws and fluid from AP racing so hopefully it'll all go back together early next week.

I have ordered new bleed screws as I had purchased some stainless ones, but they turned out to be completely wrong. A lesson there for everyone, even though the thread was correct (M10 x 1) the screw was too short, and the vital angle at the base was wrong so it wouldn't have sat flush with the internal face of the hole in the caliper. So, if you buy new bleed screws, check them against the old ones, carefully!

More picies here: http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/thumbnails.php?alb...

Tim

Edited by TT Tim on Friday 22 February 13:32

[TT Tim]

Getting there, calipers cleaned and ready to be rebuilt:



Fluid, bleed screws and new seals arrived today, so fingers crossed they'll be back working by the weekend.

Threads seem okay, now that they've been chased with a No.2 tap.



Tim

[TT Tim]

Not painting them Julian, have given them a quick blow over with spirit resisting lacquer.

I meant a 2nd tap, so, as you recommended a blind tap.

Easy to get them that clean, you've no excuse you've got the glass beads and the cabinet.

One thread 'rocks' slightly but does tighten up, my only worry is when bleeding them, but we'll see.

Thanks again

Tim

[TT Tim]

julian64 said:

You could always cheat by zinc plating a nipple thread

Now there's an idea worth trying!

Will give it a go.

Tim

[TT Tim]

No, these were cleaned with glass beads in my blast cabinet.

No point using Deox C on the calipers, in fact you shouldn't, as they are alloy and Deox C only works on ferrous metals.

I was very impressed with the results I've had from Deox C, but tbh most of the bits I've cleaned have been blasted.

Tim

[TT Tim]

caduceus said:

Was the blast cabinet expensive?
Where's the best place to get them? Machine Mart?

Cheers

Funnily enough I was chatting to a friend today about blast cabinets...

I use a pressure vessel, one of these: http://www.acegrit.co.uk/acegrit/gritblaster/page3...

The cabinet I made myself from 15mm ply. It's not very 'clean' when you're blasting using media such as sg or really dirty stuff. I wear a decent 3M mask as black snot is not funny!

Whereas you could buy: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...

Which is everything you'd need, it's totally contained and clean!

HTH

Tim

[TT Tim]

odyssey2200 said:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5pcs-Screw-Stud-Bolt-Extract...

I have used these in the past to remove snapped off bleed nipples.

Not always sucessful but worth a try.
They are effectively a LH threaded bit which grips as you screw it in to whats left of your nipple.
IYKWIM

Ta, but we've got them out. Having used EziOuts for various jobs over the years, with little success I've given up on them, they invariably break adding to the problems.

I'm convinced that it wouldn't be any different in this case. However Julian's method of heat and cold does work and I would recommend it.

Tim

PS The best and only extractors I've ever had had 100% success with is the Irwin ones, such as: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/browse.j...

Tim

[TT Tim]

Holy Thread resurrection Batman!

T