Rover V8 rebuild
Discussion
I've just finished stripping a Rover V8 ready for rebulding and I'v got some unusual ( I think ) wear on the main bearing shells:-
Anybody care to comment on this? I don't think the engine has done many miles since the crank was re-ground, but does this wear mean it need doing again?
Also , the reason I got the engine cheap was that it had seized up, turns out the head gasket had blown and a couple of the bores had been full of water causing the rings to rust to the bores. The bores have cleaned up OK but I cant get a couple of the rings out of the pistons.
Any help appreciated.
Andy
Anybody care to comment on this? I don't think the engine has done many miles since the crank was re-ground, but does this wear mean it need doing again?
Also , the reason I got the engine cheap was that it had seized up, turns out the head gasket had blown and a couple of the bores had been full of water causing the rings to rust to the bores. The bores have cleaned up OK but I cant get a couple of the rings out of the pistons.
Any help appreciated.
Andy
OK here's the story on this engine. I was looking for a cheap V8 to strip and rebuild as a bit of practice for a V8 engine I'm planning to build to put in my Range Rover. I saw this advertised in the local free ads for £50, I went over to look at it and the bloke told me that he had bought it as a runner that had just been re-built. As it had been sat in his garden for over a year it looked a little worse for wear and would not turn over, so I offered him £40 as it was perfect for what I wanted it for. Plus it was a high compression type and it even had the later stiff block, at £40 I couldn't walk away!
As I stripped it down I discovered that the reason it would not turn over is that the head gasket looked like it had blown and one of the bores was full of water, causing the rings to rust to the bore. The rest of the engine was in remarkabley good condition, the valley is a nice light gold colour, no sludge, no visable wear on the cam or tappets, the rocker gear is clean and unmarked, the pistons look like new and are on the first oversize, a new set of rings and they will be fine, and honing marks still visable on all bores. I've cleaned the rust off of the bore and taken the block to a local engine shop for an acid bath and a hone, and they have assured me the remaining marks will hone out.
This is where I'm up to, I'm wondering if the crank was re-ground, badly, when it was rebored and this is what is causing the unusual wear. The engine shop have quoted me £85 to re-grind the crank, so I might just get it done to be on the safe side and put it all back together.
Will keep you posted.
Andy
As I stripped it down I discovered that the reason it would not turn over is that the head gasket looked like it had blown and one of the bores was full of water, causing the rings to rust to the bore. The rest of the engine was in remarkabley good condition, the valley is a nice light gold colour, no sludge, no visable wear on the cam or tappets, the rocker gear is clean and unmarked, the pistons look like new and are on the first oversize, a new set of rings and they will be fine, and honing marks still visable on all bores. I've cleaned the rust off of the bore and taken the block to a local engine shop for an acid bath and a hone, and they have assured me the remaining marks will hone out.
This is where I'm up to, I'm wondering if the crank was re-ground, badly, when it was rebored and this is what is causing the unusual wear. The engine shop have quoted me £85 to re-grind the crank, so I might just get it done to be on the safe side and put it all back together.
Will keep you posted.
Andy
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff