Need help naming these parts in engine bay

[cornflakes2]

I need help naming these parts in engine bay.

[cornflakes2]

AW111 said:

What is the car?

VW Scirocco R. I think one of them is the High Pressure Fuel Pump (valve?) and the hose that goes in or out of the engine block in the black....I have no idea

[cornflakes2]

very much appreciated! Thanks to everyone!

[cornflakes2]

E-bmw said:

Have you bought another pup car?

Please don't start randomly doing stuff just in case it helps.

No, I have two cars. With no manuals in english and no one to learn from, I have only to rely on the internet and my good 'ol logic
BTW, the other car has been starting fine ever since but who knows what other pending problems will arise soon so I'm just going to
say my graces and be thankful while I can!

[cornflakes2]

thebraketester said:

First pic is the rear pcv (positive crank ventilation) hose that connects to the turbo.

Second pic is hpfp high pressure fuel pump and the plastic bit on top is the pressure sensor as said above.

Edited by thebraketester on Thursday 8th August 08:33

Yes, the PCV got it! Thanks. It appears mine is wet with some oil/fuel residue. Would this indicate there is a leak
somewhere? If so, could that be causing any driveability issues? I've noticed a bit of hesitation at low rpms and turbo
gauge seems to be reading pretty high (0.5-1.0 Bar) sometimes when I'm just pulling 1500 rpms.

I'm going to a VW-Audi specialist in a couple weeks for some general maintenance (oil change) and ask him about the
two components (PCV and HPFP) that both seem to have a bit of leaky something that's making it dark/damp around them.
Over the phone, he told me it's actually quite common for VWs or similar as my car model for these things.

[cornflakes2]

Thanks, after the visit this weekend, I'll update this and let you know what they said it was.

Another thing, not sure if it's related but the turbo boost seems to be off a little as I mentioned earlier.
A couple weeks back while I had the AC on and just sitting at a redlight, I noticed the needle in my defi boost gauge
was moving back and forth slowly and consistently every 2 seconds from -0.6 to -0.4. It's not fluttering (usually that means
something wrong with the setup) but you can hear the sound I think from the engine or exhaust going up and down lightly
along with the needle. RPM doesn't move or though...it's consistent and still when stopped. Only the turbo gauge needle was moving
back and forth. When I turned off the AC it stop moving and settled at -0.7 like it usually does and was still.

Any clue as to what symptom this could be of?

[cornflakes2]

Ok, 5 hours of driving to and from the shop, that's how long it takes me to get there. @#$% my life.

So here's the update after the visit. Turns out they said the PCV and HPFP areas that I showed you in my photos
are NO PROBLEM. They checked and said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal or natural for our cars
(VWs) to have some of that, so nothing was needed to be done for it. I trust them as they are really good with these brands of cars (that's pretty much all they work with are VW and Audi + BMW other imported cars), but I kept asking about it cuz I still thought even a little oiliness doesn't seem normal or right but what do I know.

He plugged in his VCDS obd2 scanner and found a fault code. See picture. I should
also note that no check engine light was on or ever came on recently, so why didn't it?




He said first thing to replace was the Charcoal Cannister, then in the future I should watch for the N80 (evap purge regulator). I have my own OBDII scanner: Foxwell NT201 but it didn't find any codes. What a piece of crap and waste of $50. Why didn't my OBDII scanner find the code? Maybe I need one of those 2000 dollar obdII professional scanners?

The other thing he spotted right away was that I didn't completely seal/close my dipstick. It was closed but not fully...when I pulled out the dipstick a few weeks back, I definitely forgot to push it all the way in until you hear the snap ....I think that is what was causing my engine and the turbo needle to act a little strange when the AC was turned on. I remember that if you have the car on and open the engine oil cap or even take the dipstick out while the car is on, the engine will start sounding a bit different....maybe something to do with loss of vacuum.

So $150 to change the charcoal cannister, I also did my oil + filter change, car definitely seems to drive like it did before so i think both the charcoal cannister and sealing the dipstick completely shut has helped.

Edited by cornflakes2 on Saturday 17th August 12:21

Edited by cornflakes2 on Saturday 17th August 13:01

[cornflakes2]

thebraketester said:

It will be the N80 valve he was talking about which is at the front right of the engine under the intake manifold.

Not fully seating the dipstick will make it idle like crap, similar to removing the oil filler.


I would still look at replacing the rear pcv setup to get rid of that oil misting. It should be dry.

Thanks, yep I just read about it now and found out it's called N80 (evap purge regulator) and not what I said NA8. I changed it now.
Yes, unfortunately I don't know how to do that myself and I'm probably not going back there until next year (I only go there once a year unless there is other problems). I'll keep my eye on it from time to time, unless you know of a nice DIY guide? If it's the same degree of difficulty as say replacing a cold air intake, then I can do it as I have changed cold air intakes/hoses myself no problem.

[cornflakes2]

stevieturbo said:

Why would you think a cheap code reader in the hands of someone who doesnt know how to use it, would be of any use ?

This forum is depressing at times

You need to have a broader perspective Stevie. Not everyone is a licensed mechanic or an experienced DIY car enthusiast/hobbyist on this forum. Those cheap code readers still do provide basic information even if you don't know what it means, in today's world, we have something called "google" and it's quite easy to look up the fault codes and read up on it.

My first OBD2 reader was one of those bluetooth ones and I got it for like $15. I plugged it in, downloaded the app on my phone,and wham! It was all set and ready to go. For such a cheap scanner, the layout was very clear...I could see information about all sorts of things about my car even if I didn't know what the optimal readings were supposed to be (again, easily searchable). It actually did find a fault code for me before when an electrical plug was undone and the car went into limp mode and the code was very helpful and informative for me to know what happened to the car.

I don't know why you think it's useless. It would save a lot of trouble and time if everyone has a scanner that can tell you what is wrong with your car and not spend big $$$ going mechanic to mechanic trying to test things out and figure it out while leaving you with a massive bill. All you have to do is pull a fault code, and show it to your mechanic and they'd know right away what to do.

I upgraded my obd2 scanner to a $50 Foxwell NT201 scanner but I guess I shouldn't be surprised, it's really not much better than a $15 bluetooth one. It couldn't find the fault code. The ones they have in the shops are obviously professional level and probably cost a grand or two and that one found it instantly.

Edited by cornflakes2 on Sunday 18th August 11:52