Engine overheated and died. Possible to un-seize?

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Is it possible to unseize this?

The story-

Was heading back from a round trip to Manchester from Leicester.
I was on the A50 heading toward Uttoxeter (on the way back to Leicester) when the car decided to die.
I managed to make it to a layby.
Pulled the hood and there was steam coming from the engine.
The engine temp gauge was on the red and the coolant tank was empty! the oil light was also on even though the oil level was between min and max. maybe a faulty oil pump?
The coolant tank was empty!
Called out the RAC who trailered the car back to Leicester.

Tried starting the car the next day and all I got was a clunk.

I once owned a Vauxhall Zafira MK1 that went into limp mode because of a lack of engine oil!!

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GreenV8S said:

You pressing on until you reached a layby probably killed the engine, even if it wasn't terminally damaged before that. Didn't you stop to think how much damage you were doing when the temperature went into the red and the oil pressure warning lamp came on?

Engine switched off before coasting to the layby.
The only thing I was keeping an eye on before the engine conked out was the speedo. I hadn't noticed the temp gauge or low oil light until after popping the hood. I would've thought the computer would've kicked in to prevent damage. It didn't.

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bearman68 said:

Depends on the value of the engine. What is it?

V12 Ferrari, a rebuild is on the cards. A 1.2 Corsa.....? Well, I'll let you guess.

It's a Chrysler Voyager (Startech) 2.4 CRD

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Boosted LS1 said:

The oil light's the killer. If you can't rotate the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft then it's probably toast. I once drove 9 miles in a saab with a burst top hose before the temp guage went off the clock alerting me to an issue. Next day I replaced the hose, filled with water and that was 5 years ago.

Just tried it. it won't budge. definitely toast at the moment!

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kambites said:

When it "died" did it lock up (which would have locked the driven wheels) or just stop running but still turn over?

It didn't lock up. It coasted in gear until I took it out of gear.

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What's the science behind taking out the injectors and putting a spoon full of diesel down each barrel? How does it get past the rings?
I've googled but can't find any answers.

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Hammer67 said:

Where did the coolant go?

The spout the arrow's pointing at.

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It seems the engine is not a seized as I once thought.
Long story short- Tried jumping it with my other car. Positive terminal has oxidation on it. Turned the key and the engine turned around a half revolution and then heard the sound a starter motor makes when a battery is flat, and the speed and rev counter needles went up and down. Not enough juice from the jump car?

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xjay1337 said:

Please go to a mechanic or provide enough information to accurately (as much as you can!) diagnose over the internet.

It's so frustrating from the side of the "technically knowledgeable" when people randomly post information which is not really helpful.

If it's broken, get a new engine. For it to seize due to over heating it means it's been driven at length and is fked even if when it's cooled it might re-start.

A new/ish engine would cost how many k to have done at a garage?

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stevieturbo said:

How long is a piece of string ? And can you find a competent technician to measure that string ?

Or how much is a good working car of the same type actually worth ?

I'd say that piece of string is quite short.
It's a rare car with an even rarer 2.4 engine. I don't think i'd ever find another car of that model.

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stevieturbo said:

What's an accord got to do with a Chrysler ?

Really....it sounds like an old vehicle, probably real world limited value. And if he really thinks it's rare....possibly a known good engine will also be rare ( albeit it's probably not that rare )

Sadly all too often threads like this where someone needs an engine replaced by a garage almost always go the same way.
Either the replacement engine is fked, or the garage fks things up, or the engine was sold as the same and was different and everyone involved gets screwed.

Unless you have a known trustworthy and reputable mechanic...which by the fact you're asking silly things here seems unlikely...give up on it. Someone may want it for parts to help cut your losses.
And learn from it and don't drive on next time til everything is destroyed.

It is an old Voyager Startech (04) 2.4 CRD. I don't think they put the 2.4 in the other Voyagers.
I can't find a 2.4 anywhere for this car. I think my only option would be to have the pistons and sleeves replaced.

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HustleRussell said:

Yes because that would completely fix the engine

You know what I mean!

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PistonAFC said:

what did the RAC man tell you?

The RAC man knew nothing about cars. His only job is transport from point A to point B.

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The Spruce Goose said:

According to wiki there never was a 2.4 CRD, it was 2.5.

There are loads of engines on ebay, but in honesty i would just scrap it get another minivan. They aren't know for reliability.

225
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-Chrysler-Voyager-2...

It looks like you may be right!

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I know general consensus is to scrap it and buy another cheap 7 seater, but what problems would the replacement have? Has anyone, in the history of buying used cars, ever bought one with no problems?

I won't take it to a garage. I'm actually planning on fixing it myself!

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sunbeam alpine said:

Why not? Your original post suggests you're from Leicester, so you won't be going anywhere for a while!

Very good!!

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It now turns one full revolution per one and a half seconds.

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dhutch said:

Currently it's gaining 40rpm a month, at that rate it only needs another 120 or so months, ten years. I wonder if the rate of self repair will be linear?

i've tried starting it four times so far!

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toast boy said:

I can't believe this is still going on!

OP - when you said you were going to fix it yourself, did you mean swapping for another engine or rebuilding the one you have? Have you done the maths?

I know you said you weren't keen on getting another car as it may have problems but you can mitigate a lot of that by thoroughly checking it over and doing a bit of research. There's no guarantee that you fix the engine on your current car and it doesn't break somewhere else...

I'm still undecided on what to do. I'd like to save it from the scrap yard but i'm not going to pay out loads on it.
I'm thinking the oil pump isn't faulty and the engine never fully locked. If the oil pump was faulty, surely the pistons would've been destroyed and there would be no compression when I attempt to start it?
I would rebuild it myself but it's due its MOT on the 11 of August. Time is running out.

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Boosted LS1 said:

All it needs is some vaseline, tlc and maybe some copperslip to free it up. After it's been run for maybe 20 mins a fresh oil change and filter should see it sorted. Run it in around the block a few times and increase distance gradually. Top up coolants etc. Then do some higher speeds on local dual carriageways but stay close to home. Jobs a goodun.

I was thinking;

Refit charged battery and turn engine and see if there's any more improvement.
Take out injectors and remove fuel pump fuse and pour down some diesel and turn engine and see if there's any improvement.
Leave it to sit for a few days and pray.