Clutch torque capacity

[Niponeoff]

Is there a safety factor built into the clutch torque rating?

I have a NA engine producing 245 lb/ft, max 8500rpm.

I've been recommend two clutches

260 lb/ft organic
317 lb/ft ceremetallic puk

Both have a sprung centre. I'm thinking I'll for the organic as it will feel better on the road, but its a bit close to my max capacity.

Engine is a series 1 millington gooig on an escort, predominantly for the road.

[Niponeoff]

stevieturbo said:

Niponeoff said:

Is there a safety factor built into the clutch torque rating?

I have a NA engine producing 245 lb/ft, max 8500rpm.

I've been recommend two clutches

260 lb/ft organic
317 lb/ft ceremetallic puk

Both have a sprung centre. I'm thinking I'll for the organic as it will feel better on the road, but its a bit close to my max capacity.

Engine is a series 1 millington gooig on an escort, predominantly for the road.

How long is a piece of string ?

It all varies with the vehicle, usage, power delivery, application...etc etc etc and of course clutch manufacturer.

If it is genuinely for road use and will be driven, no hard launches etc then definitely organic. Whilst paddle clutches can of course be driven, and most very well....they are never ever as nice as an organic plate no matter what anyone tries to tell you.

Do they offer a stronger cover ?

TTV make a lot of nice stuff, and could easily offer a much higher rating than that with an organic disc. Really in terms of clutches these days, even 260lbft is pretty low when that's very bog standard mainstream cars that can make that sort of torque, and diesels a lot more.
So it should be very easy to achieve more in a "performance" application.

Well I did say how long the piece of string was. I also said it was a millington. You sound like you've never heard of one?

I had a 270hp duratec that made 176 ft/lbs of torque, that was quick.

The millington makes 245, that's huge for an NA 4 pot. It's an all out race engine.

I have a 485hp cosworth in the same car and a millington escort would make it look pedestrian in anything other than a straight line, which is why I'm changing it (after much thought!)

I have a strong cover on another car and I don't like it, so I don't want a heavy clutch.

The way millingtons make power I'm worried I might be too close to the capacity. BUT, as you say, for a road car, I want the best mannered clutch I can get away with.

Does anyone know if there is a safety factor. You know, slips at 300, so state 260 as a specification?

[Niponeoff]

I think I'll go for the organic, road use. I can change the plate out if it gets eaten!

I know you think your being funny with the pedestrian torque comments, but comparing a diesel to a millington is laughable.

I have a built 4.0 in my 996T pushing over 1000hp, it's also got a 997 GT2 gearbox so I lost the accumulated clutch of the turbo, coupled with the beefier clutch, makes for a considerably heavier pedal. Todd Knighton has a dual clutch setup which works like stock so I think I might change it for that, but that means more disassembly. I just want to get it right this time.

My Porsche wouldn't see which way a millington escort went, even with a paltry 245ft/lbs...

[Niponeoff]

CrutyRammers said:

A couple of years ago I changed a slipping organic (ACT) to a Competition Clutch hybrid thing - it's ceramic pucs but not on paddles, more like a normal clutch plate but with ceramic pucs in place of the normal material. Was fully expecting it to be a bit heavy, fierce or otherwise nasty but....it's just normal. Surprised me after all the horror stories tbh.

I actually got a few part numbers and downloaded the catalogue, it's a helix 7.25"

The organic is actually using a slightly stronger plate (360 kg) as opposed to the metallic at 345 kg, so will be a stiffer pedal on the organic.

Seeing as they are both sprung and the metallic is 4 puk, I've decided to about turn and go for the metallic!

I hate heavy pedals, even though I know its not a huge difference, I just prefer less effort to press the clutch.

Plus it gives me some headroom for burnouts!

[Niponeoff]

stevieturbo said:

small diameter and paddle clutch, will do nothing for driveability, light pedal or not.

7.25" is more of the ilk of actual competition clutches for those who seek the lightest MOI of clutches.

For anything road, I would not be opting for that sort of thing ( unless the vehicle was mega mega light too....like a motorbike lol )

A millington escort is already a compromised car, the fact its a sprung plate with more puks and the lowest pressure plate weight is the best I can do. I think the sprung plate will be the biggest improvement over the alternatives.

I was swinging towards the organic, but I think it will be spinning the wheels fairly easily as someone reminded me.

It's well stripped though, even the bumper brackets are alloy, carbon boot, bonnet, etc. More to come out too when I go canbus loom and a bit of perspex for the fixed windows.

[Niponeoff]

Looks nice!

[Niponeoff]

stevieturbo said:

paddle or organic ?

With a twin, could definitely go organic for nice driving. Looks a nice sturdy cover.

Paddle 6, sprung, metallic with the lower clamping force plate. Sprung organic was my first choice but it was just too close to the maximum rating unfortunately. None of the twins were sprung.

Hardest bit has been finding the correct lug bolts. They're 5/16 UNF. Just waiting for some longer ones after getting sent UNC by mistake and buying M8x1.0. Think I've spent £30 on bolts so far!

[Niponeoff]

PaulKemp said:

Here’s a thought… Talk to Millington they’ll put you right

They direct you to their distributors, MST now. Then it's dependent on who their suppliers are. I was going to go with AP but they don't supply sprung plates, but MST will make you a custom one.

Helix offer a sprung clutch in the correct size and fitment but not though MST.

Millington help and direct you, but not with specifics as its so wide and varied is up the each person to spec to their intended use, but then that's part of the fun right.

They told me to use an Ark starter motor but Frank Kelly uses wosp. Competition supplies are near me and very helpful so I went with wosp

[Niponeoff]

Evoluzione said:

To describe anything or anyone as 'nice' is an insult unless it or they are anything other than.
Also, since when has something described as 'nice' means it performs adequately?

You don't like the look of shiny new car parts?

Here's some more:

The socks are just for storage, but they're on 50 dco webers.





HD concentric slave, waiting for some spacers to get the correct stroke:



I didn't actually know what the thread size was in the flywheel so spent a few quid getting the correct HT bolts. So I've invested in some thread gauges going forward. They were 5/8 UNF. I thought they would be metric M8x1.0.

What do people think of schnorr washers?

[Niponeoff]

It's only going to be a road car, so not just nice, it'll be blimmin lovely. I've had a few projects over the years but this is one I plan taking my time with.

It's actually a genuine RS2000 too, so not just a converted popular plus.

One thing I'll be doing is swapping out the rose joints for bushes. But the whole car will be stripped back to bare metal. Not planning to win any races.