Rover V8 Rebuild

[Fish]

Right just spent the day cleaning the dimantled bits. I looked at the whole engine and it looks like the following is needed:

cam
tappets
about half the pustrods(therefore full set)
time chain
cogs

Now where I'm struggling is the rocker assembly. There is some wear on the shaft but the rockers seem not to bad with only the very, slightest of wear on the pads, the dome bits are all fine with no cracks or ridges etc.

- On this basis I'm thinking of just two new shafts but am I better buying a new full assembly.

Valve springs are they worth replacing? There seems to be little wear to the valve stems/guides so I thought I'd leave then. Would replaceing the springs upset the valve seating...

Anyhow it is only a 8.13cr 3.5l so I don't wont to keep spending on it.

Also are there any benefits to be obtained by replacing the cam with a high compression 3.5 or a 3.9 cam. I understand the low compression cams were for emisions and thus not the most efficient?????



Thoughts please people, if anyone is a V8 parts supplier I'll happily put the parts your way to ensure better quality....

[Fish]

Just got all the bits and am putting it back together. Made a cockup already, put the RH head on the Left and vice versa. I'm going to leave them that way round but is there any potential real problems I could create.

Looking forward to driving the thing now...

[Fish]

I've bought all the stuff now and decided to stick with the origional as it's never going to be a performance motor in the Landy anyhow. Will thus have nice lazy V8.

[fish]

Two questions on the rebuild, it should be fired up at the weekend

Sensors on the inlet manifold are temp sender and an otter switch what does the otter switch send to?

Early V8s circ 1980 low comp are okay on unleaded aren't they??????

[fish]

The engine is a landrover 3.5l low compression unit built in 1980. the otter switch is wired into the harness and won't control fans because it doesn't have electric fans plus choke is manual

[fish]

I've since spoken to Noble Motrosport in Chesterfield who will be doing the re needling, on a rolling road and the unleaded/leaded depends on the number on the heads. Mine is early and on checking I will be using Leaded well LRP in it......

Shame would have preferred unleaded.

[fish]

Not going to do the miles so won't bother.

[fish]

It's not the pump... its the gasket...

Take everything out tonight and rebuild. Is it worth a new pump anyway as I'm stripping it down again

[fish]

The engine stand only cost £46 from machine mart so it's hardly worth buying from me, I may as well hang onto it for the future as I may well need it again.

Water pumps are availiable for early V8s for about £35 from Paddocks and John Craddocks.

I have a slight leak from the water pump gasket. I don't really have time to take it all apart and fix it properly. If I use Radweld to stop it does it create any further problems.??????

[fish]

SO does anyone know whether it is okay to use rad weld??

[fish]

The saga continues, I spotted on Sunday the head gasket is blowing and preasurising the coolant. Dooh!!

Anyhow been speaking to some people and I may just put some new heads on rather than get the old ones skimmed and refitted.

[fish]

Update time..

Afterthrowing my teddy out the pram with the engine it's now being finished...

It was the pump so it's getting a new pump and the heads which leaked are going back on with a composite gasket after a skim.

Hopeing to have it all running for the weekend.

Does anyone know why the engine should run RICH if I've removed the restricters surely more air allowed in results in a leaner mixture before I have it reneedled.