Not quite HSV - VT Commodore
Discussion
I’ve just bought a VT Commodore after a few years of waiting patiently for its second owner to part with it........
The story is it was originally an unmarked car in Oz for a fairly high ranking officer. When the car was around a year old, said officer retired and bought the car from the force. At 3 years old, it was bought by my new best friends, Eddie and Margaret. It was used to take them all over Oz for a couple of years and when they decided to return to Wales they brought the car with them.
It was UK registered and MOTd for a year or two, then Eddie fell seriously Ill and the car was laid up while he recovered. Unfortunately that never really happened and, after seeing my old 24V Senator parked outside my shop 10 years ago, Eddie popped in a few weeks ago and, true to his word, offered me the car for an un-turn-downable price! Bear in mind I knew nothing of the cars past, or even what colour it was, I couldn’t say no, so 2 weeks ago I had a friend collect the car from storage and dropped it off at my barn to see what I’d bought......
So, it’s a VT with LS1 and a T56, HSV brakes and suspension and dubious looking bucket seats..... it’s thankfully not rusty, just very dusty and should be a pretty easy project to get back on the road.
When I called in on Eddie last week to sort out paperwork, he took me to his garage to get some bits and bobs for the car. First was an LS6 inlet with Holley throttle body..... win! Then a couple of lengths of stainless pipe and silicone hose.......hmmmmmm....... followed shortly by two massive turbos and all associated bits. HA!!! Result! After a loooong chat with Ed, it turns out he worked as a cam grinder for Burton for years, and was always into modifying cars from the 60s onwards. At the age of 70, back in Oz, he decided the VT wasn’t quick enough so had worked out what was needed for 800hp and started collecting...... the only piece of the puzzle I’m left to find is the engine internals to handle the power....
My question to you guys is what the consensus is on pistons, rods, crank etc to handle this kind of power? I’ve done a lot of reading and Think I’ve sussed the options but would like opinions from UK based Holden fans as to where best to source the bits. I’m not new to GM products, or modifying cars but this is my first yank engined project and the options are a bit baffling for an LS newb!
Pics for the curious......
The story is it was originally an unmarked car in Oz for a fairly high ranking officer. When the car was around a year old, said officer retired and bought the car from the force. At 3 years old, it was bought by my new best friends, Eddie and Margaret. It was used to take them all over Oz for a couple of years and when they decided to return to Wales they brought the car with them.
It was UK registered and MOTd for a year or two, then Eddie fell seriously Ill and the car was laid up while he recovered. Unfortunately that never really happened and, after seeing my old 24V Senator parked outside my shop 10 years ago, Eddie popped in a few weeks ago and, true to his word, offered me the car for an un-turn-downable price! Bear in mind I knew nothing of the cars past, or even what colour it was, I couldn’t say no, so 2 weeks ago I had a friend collect the car from storage and dropped it off at my barn to see what I’d bought......
So, it’s a VT with LS1 and a T56, HSV brakes and suspension and dubious looking bucket seats..... it’s thankfully not rusty, just very dusty and should be a pretty easy project to get back on the road.
When I called in on Eddie last week to sort out paperwork, he took me to his garage to get some bits and bobs for the car. First was an LS6 inlet with Holley throttle body..... win! Then a couple of lengths of stainless pipe and silicone hose.......hmmmmmm....... followed shortly by two massive turbos and all associated bits. HA!!! Result! After a loooong chat with Ed, it turns out he worked as a cam grinder for Burton for years, and was always into modifying cars from the 60s onwards. At the age of 70, back in Oz, he decided the VT wasn’t quick enough so had worked out what was needed for 800hp and started collecting...... the only piece of the puzzle I’m left to find is the engine internals to handle the power....
My question to you guys is what the consensus is on pistons, rods, crank etc to handle this kind of power? I’ve done a lot of reading and Think I’ve sussed the options but would like opinions from UK based Holden fans as to where best to source the bits. I’m not new to GM products, or modifying cars but this is my first yank engined project and the options are a bit baffling for an LS newb!
Pics for the curious......
Thanks for the replies chaps. Here’s a pic of the VIN plate showing the options....
I’ll get in touch with Holden and see if they can clarify exactly how it left them......
As for the turbos, the more I read, the more I think I’m inclined to do as Fred Bloggs says and try it with conservative boost first.
First off is to get it MOTd which means sorting a PS leak, finding the source of the clonk on full lock and fitting MPH clocks.
Does anyone know of a UK source who maybe an SS rear spoiler?!
I’ll get in touch with Holden and see if they can clarify exactly how it left them......
As for the turbos, the more I read, the more I think I’m inclined to do as Fred Bloggs says and try it with conservative boost first.
First off is to get it MOTd which means sorting a PS leak, finding the source of the clonk on full lock and fitting MPH clocks.
Does anyone know of a UK source who maybe an SS rear spoiler?!
Edited by entwistlecymru on Saturday 28th September 21:42
So, I’ve finally had some time to work on the car...... thankfully after putting it on my 2 poster, pulling the bumpers and skirts off there’s no rot, not even surface rust anywhere. I’ve cleaned underneath and given it a dose of Schultz and used Fertan rust killer and cavity wax in the sills and chassis members.
Mechanically I knew it needed the PS system looking at. It had a new pump a few years ago but whoever fitted it left a hose clamp loose which is why it p**sed all its fluid on my nice, clean floor! I fitted a mishimoto PS cooler an routed all the pipe work properly so it’s now ATF-tight.
The clocks were removed by the previous owner as he had plans to fit GTO clocks (they’re in MPH not KPH). In doing so he cut the original connector off and junked the clocks, and despite him working out what wires should go where, it quickly became clear the GTO unit isn’t compatible at all with the VT loom! Thankfully eBay.au came up trumps so that’s what I’m now waiting on for an MOT
I’ve identified the brakes as a Harrop kit, it’s had Koni shocks fitted, a quick shifter, alloy rad and a stainless exhaust.
A couple of questions for you guys........ I notice the LS1 doesn’t take a lot of oil so I was looking at fitting a remote filter and oil cooler to up the capacity - any recommendations on a kit?
Also, on the subject of oil, are there any tricks when changing sump gasket and F&R crank seals - it’s dripping engine oil from front and middle of the engine so I’m guessing they’ve dried up from sitting for years....
Mechanically I knew it needed the PS system looking at. It had a new pump a few years ago but whoever fitted it left a hose clamp loose which is why it p**sed all its fluid on my nice, clean floor! I fitted a mishimoto PS cooler an routed all the pipe work properly so it’s now ATF-tight.
The clocks were removed by the previous owner as he had plans to fit GTO clocks (they’re in MPH not KPH). In doing so he cut the original connector off and junked the clocks, and despite him working out what wires should go where, it quickly became clear the GTO unit isn’t compatible at all with the VT loom! Thankfully eBay.au came up trumps so that’s what I’m now waiting on for an MOT
I’ve identified the brakes as a Harrop kit, it’s had Koni shocks fitted, a quick shifter, alloy rad and a stainless exhaust.
A couple of questions for you guys........ I notice the LS1 doesn’t take a lot of oil so I was looking at fitting a remote filter and oil cooler to up the capacity - any recommendations on a kit?
Also, on the subject of oil, are there any tricks when changing sump gasket and F&R crank seals - it’s dripping engine oil from front and middle of the engine so I’m guessing they’ve dried up from sitting for years....
Edited by entwistlecymru on Sunday 23 February 22:18
Thanks motomk 
The brakes are branded HSV but appear to be made by Harrop..... is that likely?
My clocks arrived from fuscars in Oz today so I’ll be fitting them tomorrow night, and as long as they work properly I can book it for an MOT....
Speaking of clocks, does anyone have experience of programming them? It looks like it’s just calibrating the speedo to account for a change in diff ratio. It seems a snap on Solus will do it....
The brakes are branded HSV but appear to be made by Harrop..... is that likely?
My clocks arrived from fuscars in Oz today so I’ll be fitting them tomorrow night, and as long as they work properly I can book it for an MOT....
Speaking of clocks, does anyone have experience of programming them? It looks like it’s just calibrating the speedo to account for a change in diff ratio. It seems a snap on Solus will do it....
Edited by entwistlecymru on Tuesday 25th February 19:46
So I've fitted the clocks and its all working as it should. I dropped the oil last night, thankfully - it was absolutely horrible! I've chucked some cheap 5W30 in to flush it out along with a new filter and will dump it again after its MOT.
I left it running outside this afternoon for 15 minutes or so and it got quite hot. Having drained the coolant when I pulled the front end off I'm hoping it was just a small airlock - I've bled it again so will run it up to temperature tomorrow and see what happens.
Hopefully I'll get it booked in for test this week and I can drive it for the first time! Once its tested I'll get it nice and warm, get it in the air and drain the engine, gearbox and diff and replace the brake fluid too.
I left it running outside this afternoon for 15 minutes or so and it got quite hot. Having drained the coolant when I pulled the front end off I'm hoping it was just a small airlock - I've bled it again so will run it up to temperature tomorrow and see what happens.
Hopefully I'll get it booked in for test this week and I can drive it for the first time! Once its tested I'll get it nice and warm, get it in the air and drain the engine, gearbox and diff and replace the brake fluid too.
I own a motor factors so won’t be bothering with that lot 
All MOT work completed tonight ready for test this week....... that won’t be happening now!
I took it for its first drive in 10 years (my first drive in it) anyway, just to check it over - here are my initial findings....
It’s got an awful misfire at anything above tickover so I think the plugs need doing.
The S/S exhaust sounds fantastic - burbly and fairly quiet up to 3k, sounds like a proper muscle car above that.
The Harrop brakes are fantastic. Nice and progressive with more than enough power.
The Koni shocks and standard springs feel spot on for UK roads. Steering is a lot sharper than I thought it would be - possibly had a quicker rack fitted?
The short drive went well until I reversed it in to my unit....... hmmmm, why won’t you go into reverse..... the clutch pedal shouldn’t be that low, let’s check the fluid.... nothing.... look underneath....
drip, drip, drip. Looks like a new clutch and hydraulics are on the cards.
I’m guessing Rockauto are the best bet? I’m not in a rush any more!
I took it for its first drive in 10 years (my first drive in it) anyway, just to check it over - here are my initial findings....
It’s got an awful misfire at anything above tickover so I think the plugs need doing.
The S/S exhaust sounds fantastic - burbly and fairly quiet up to 3k, sounds like a proper muscle car above that.
The Harrop brakes are fantastic. Nice and progressive with more than enough power.
The Koni shocks and standard springs feel spot on for UK roads. Steering is a lot sharper than I thought it would be - possibly had a quicker rack fitted?
The short drive went well until I reversed it in to my unit....... hmmmm, why won’t you go into reverse..... the clutch pedal shouldn’t be that low, let’s check the fluid.... nothing.... look underneath....
drip, drip, drip. Looks like a new clutch and hydraulics are on the cards. I’m guessing Rockauto are the best bet? I’m not in a rush any more!
Thanks lincsls1. Looks as though rockauto win again. I really can’t believe how cheap these vehicles are to run! I’ll be ordering an LS7 3 piece kit, spigot bearing, flywheel and rear crank seal as well as new gasket for the LS6 manifold.
A few questions for the learned before I buy....
1: will I need an LS1 or LS7 slave cylinder?
2: there seem to be a lot of posts about the LS7 unit not disengaging.... is this just down to shims behind the slave as suggested by most?
3: is there anything else worth changing while I’m underneath?
A few questions for the learned before I buy....
1: will I need an LS1 or LS7 slave cylinder?
2: there seem to be a lot of posts about the LS7 unit not disengaging.... is this just down to shims behind the slave as suggested by most?
3: is there anything else worth changing while I’m underneath?
Right I have a list of bits in my basket with Rockauto, about to press the button..... LUK LSC384 slave cylinder, LUK 04905 clutch and flywheel kit, Timken100085 rear crank seal.......Am I missing anything obvious as far as my clutch swap goes? (bleed hose not available from them!)
As far as the inlet manifold gasket swap goes, I've got new gaskets and an oil pressure switch included - anything else worth changing while I'm in there too?
As far as the inlet manifold gasket swap goes, I've got new gaskets and an oil pressure switch included - anything else worth changing while I'm in there too?
Well, top marks to Rockauto. Ordered last Friday night on an economy service and it arrived on Tuesday! I thought I had everything to do the clutch swap but I’ve decided to get a braided clutch hose fitted at the same time. My question to the PH massive is..... what size fitting is on the master cylinder end of the hose? Is it an M10x1 or something imperial? I can get one made locally if I can provide more info.....
Well the Commy has a ticket for the first time in years, but unfortunately it popped its bottom rad hose off after the test, probably due to the fans not coming on........ I've never had it properly up to temperature in my ownership so that's something that needs addressing now! I'm guessing a relay or fuse but haven't got the car back to check it out. At least all the other jobs are done so a little wiring and it'll be out and about at last.
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