Which way to jump engine mods 5.7 LS1?

Which way to jump engine mods 5.7 LS1?

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nosubstitute

Original Poster:

750 posts

183 months

Monday 26th April 2010
quotequote all
I have been saving up to sort the Monaro out powerwise for some time now and I am rapidly approaching the point where I can seriously start to think about actually committing.

I am just not sure which way to jump and whichever way I go it’s going to cost so I need to make sure I do the right thing by me.

I’d like some opinions as to what would be best (NA v FI) for me and my circumstances. I’m not interested in stirring up an argument about which is best per se.

I will never forge the internals and I am not interested competing with the car over the quarter mile or 1 mile or achieve ultimate top speed. I will do the odd track day so being able to show a clean pair of heels to other quick cars on corner exit or on a drag down a straight is the motivation for seeking more power as well as being able to translate this to road driving. General usage is dry weekend only, early in the morning or whenever the roads are quiet so no sitting in traffic jams. Reliability is key, I don’t want a car that breaks.

So, the choice is NA – heads and cam or FI. What do all you wise people suggest? I’d be interested in specifics too regards type of charger/boost or heads cam spec etc

nosubstitute

Original Poster:

750 posts

183 months

Monday 26th April 2010
quotequote all
I have had the 3.9:1 diff fitted as I like to drive the car up to the red line and taking it to 3rd on the road would have been ban inducing territory and is now much more lively on the road. So I guess I like to 'rev'!

Power requirements are based on comparisons with cars in the back of EVO i.e flywheel. I'd like to match an Aston Martin V12 Vantage (which has a similar kerb weight) at 520 flywheel so allowing for transmission losses say 415/420 at the wheels. I am happy to take the cam if that were the direction I was to take as extreme as possible while being able to pass emissions. Rev band 2000rpm to 6000rpm with a similar torque curve as I have now but just elevated.

I'd also like to make it sounds a little more 'heavy weight' so thinking cam would do this.

Budget is £6000 tops. I will never justify anymore expense on the engine so whatever I do now will be it.

Oh and what does 'Service Transmission' mean in the display on the dash? It has just appeared.

nosubstitute

Original Poster:

750 posts

183 months

Monday 26th April 2010
quotequote all
Ringram in a separate post you mentioned Compcams LSR CAMS. I've had a look and there are several to choose from. I calculated the overlap by adding the durations together, dividing by 4 and then taking off the LCA and doubling. Is this correct?

How do you know if a cam will pass emissions? I was under the impression it was linked to the overlap but on some you get a negative figure and some a positive figure and some pretty much zero. Is there a band which the overlap must fall into in order to pass emissions?

Can you assess a cam's ability to pass emissions on the cam spec alone or would it be affected by the spec of the heads used with it?


nosubstitute

Original Poster:

750 posts

183 months

Monday 26th April 2010
quotequote all
ARAF, totally agree, mine has been almost fully Pedderised by Monkfish. Just the ARBs to go.

Ringram, thanks for that.

Basically I would want to go as far as I can with a cam. You mention the 219/227-112 LSR Comp cam. How would that compare with something like this:-
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?...

nosubstitute

Original Poster:

750 posts

183 months

Monday 26th April 2010
quotequote all
Thanks TerryS. Might well mail you.

Throwing this out to you all:

How about this for a combo?

http://www.partsworldperformance.com/cnc-ported_ls...

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?...

Incidentally what does this mean?

LSR™ Cathedral Port (Small Displacement or Max Torque, 4.8L-5.3L)