A small development in my Monaro misery
Discussion
Any mechanically or technically minded people please please please rack your brains to see if you can think of anything that would cause this.
I know I’ve been moaning about my Monaro stalling/cutting out all the time – so far with no luck from Vauxhall or independent garages. (Sorry to keep going on about it!)
However, through trial and error I’ve finally noticed it’s a lot worse when the car/engine bay is hot. When it was really sunny the other day it was doing it all day, then last night I had it sat idling on the drive getting really warm and it did it 4 times in a row.
Essentially – my question is this..
What would cause the immobilser to cut off the fuel when the car/engine bay got hot?
If it's a dodgy wire/connector - where should I be looking? Tried some general poking and wiggling of most of the connectors in the bay.
(btw there’s no hi temp warnings or anything – it’s just normal hot v8 engine temp that’s making it worse) The only fault codes are P1632 NP: IMMOBILSER FUEL DISABLE SIGNAL RECEIVE so what (with the addition of heat) could be causing it.
ANY ideas are very gladly received
I know I’ve been moaning about my Monaro stalling/cutting out all the time – so far with no luck from Vauxhall or independent garages. (Sorry to keep going on about it!)
However, through trial and error I’ve finally noticed it’s a lot worse when the car/engine bay is hot. When it was really sunny the other day it was doing it all day, then last night I had it sat idling on the drive getting really warm and it did it 4 times in a row.
Essentially – my question is this..
What would cause the immobilser to cut off the fuel when the car/engine bay got hot?
If it's a dodgy wire/connector - where should I be looking? Tried some general poking and wiggling of most of the connectors in the bay.
(btw there’s no hi temp warnings or anything – it’s just normal hot v8 engine temp that’s making it worse) The only fault codes are P1632 NP: IMMOBILSER FUEL DISABLE SIGNAL RECEIVE so what (with the addition of heat) could be causing it.
ANY ideas are very gladly received
Another development!
Had a good long chat with Chris at Picador who's been speaking to the tech guys who had one in doing the same a few years ago.. turned out when they replaced the ECU it solved it.
I'm going have a look at it this evening and check/clean all the connections, but don't want to mess around with it too much. Has anyone removed those 3 huge connectors on the heat sink? Is it ok to pull them off and put them back?
Had a good long chat with Chris at Picador who's been speaking to the tech guys who had one in doing the same a few years ago.. turned out when they replaced the ECU it solved it.
I'm going have a look at it this evening and check/clean all the connections, but don't want to mess around with it too much. Has anyone removed those 3 huge connectors on the heat sink? Is it ok to pull them off and put them back?
SimonV8ster said:
Have you given Monkfish a ring ?
Spoke to them a few days ago and they said they'd have to have it in for a while to investigate.. but because the problem is so bad it's not ideal to drive it all the way from Leeds to MK when it's cutting out on the motorway.
I'm going to have to book it in anyway if these ideas don't sort it over the weekend. I'll get them to fit a new ECU and code it all up for me and hopefully that'll fix it.
Checked all the ECU connections last night and it's all like brand new so that's not the problem. Wiggled every cable I can see in the engine and that's not doing it either. I've been searching online for a list of all the LS2 sensors and where they're located but can't find anything yet. As a last ditch attempt before I just put it in the garage for a few weeks before Monkfish can fit me in, can anyone think of any sensors that could be dodgy and would get worse with heat?
2woody said:
don't rush off and buy an ECU....
Mine did exactly the same - cured by a new crank position sensor.
as the sensor ages, the internal winding resistance breaks down, causing an entirely random engine stopping, related to engine temperature. other web forums are alight with tales of pouring cold water over the sensor at which point it comes back to life. Also related is heat damage to the wiring that leads to the sensor, as it passes the exhaust manifold.
cured by a new sensor for about 30 quid as far as I remember. Mind you, it's a sod to fit as it's above the starter - mine took a good couple of hours to do.
Just to double-check. The failure mode on mine was that the vehicle would occasionally stop when driving - just cutting out, sometimes twice a day, but sometimes every other week. Once left for 20 minutes, it would come back to life and run as normal. Never happens when cold, and happens more often if the car is (ahem) excercised. Mo "mill" light illumination.
Mine did exactly the same - cured by a new crank position sensor.
as the sensor ages, the internal winding resistance breaks down, causing an entirely random engine stopping, related to engine temperature. other web forums are alight with tales of pouring cold water over the sensor at which point it comes back to life. Also related is heat damage to the wiring that leads to the sensor, as it passes the exhaust manifold.
cured by a new sensor for about 30 quid as far as I remember. Mind you, it's a sod to fit as it's above the starter - mine took a good couple of hours to do.
Just to double-check. The failure mode on mine was that the vehicle would occasionally stop when driving - just cutting out, sometimes twice a day, but sometimes every other week. Once left for 20 minutes, it would come back to life and run as normal. Never happens when cold, and happens more often if the car is (ahem) excercised. Mo "mill" light illumination.
Edited by 2woody on Friday 28th May 11:25
I'll have a look at that this evening.. any chance you can describe exactly where this is located, as I'm not mega-tech minded. The only thing is it always re-starts instantly - you don;t have to wait any length of time - just turn the key back and forth and it starts fine again.. if it was a dodgy sensor would I have to wait for a while before it re-started?
ringram said:
Does it throw a code?
Sometimes there will be codes in there without a MIL as mentioned.
Best to get it somewhere with a scan tool etc.
Sometimes there will be codes in there without a MIL as mentioned.
Best to get it somewhere with a scan tool etc.
Only codes are to do with the immobilser cutting the fuel supply so it's probably not the crank sensor to be honest.. (although these could be old codes..) just thought it would be worth checking as people with the same problem have said this has cured it.
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