Sagaris Project returns to the UK
Discussion
I’ve had this now for a couple of months and it’s progressing well although a lot slower than I had hoped. But I’m in no rush as it will be a keeper when finished, always loved the Sag and even tried buying one a few years ago also a cat C but repaired (to a point). Never thought I would have a chance again as the prices are far too much for my meagre pockets.
The story of the car is as follows I’m sure some of you will remember it. The car originally belonged to JERRYCO and while he was driving down the M62 in Dec 2009 he lost control on black ice and ended up pinned under part of the armco barrier. It was reported that the car rolled but after speaking with Mark and TrackVroad who did the insurance estimate and seeing the car I’m 100% positive that it didn’t. Anyway the car was sold via Copart and ended up in Belgium after some repair work was carried out at the front (needs a lot of work to get this right) the roof damage was not touched and the drivers outrigger is also slightly damaged but the rest of the chassis is sound.
After being stood in an old factory for the last 8 years the owner realised that he was never going to finish it so advertised it for sale. I was lucky enough to be the first to contact him and after a bit of a conversation and some more details we agreed the sale. So off to Belgium we went a couple of weeks later.
There were a few missing ecu’s but the car did come with a few spares inc lights full suspension bush kit new windscreen etc new bonnet and door skin for the drivers door but no fixings. I decided the bonnet would take too much work to convert to a one piece hinged one and the door was not in the best condition so a new door and bonnet is on order from Brendon at Concept Performance. Interior needs a lot of work as the leather dash was torn by the smashed windscreen front carpets also need replacing but the seats doorcrda and rear carpets are good. The car had not been run since its accident and the air box had been cracked.
I removed all the plugs but a bore scope down to make sure there was no debris in the cylinders sprayed some oil down to lubricate the bores which looked great changed the oil and filter drained the tank of fuel bypassed the immobiliser as I didn’t get the fob turned it over a few times with the plug out as soon as the plugs were back in it fired up first time sounded like thunder in my little garage. The clutch was also free which I was sure would have been stuck on.
So on with the repair to the roof. Managed to get a front roll cage and roof skin and fitted and bonded it all back together
That’s pretty much as far as I have got spent the last few weekends getting the front nose up to spec and still needs plenty more work.
I am happy to update this if people are interested so please let me know
Chris
I’ve been spending quite a bit of time on the front end which was repaired before I got the car. Unfortunately it’s just not been done well the quality of the actual panel is really bad with loads of air pockets and after much consideration I have decided to do the job right it really needs cutting off and starting again. Luckily it’s not the full front end inner wings inner wheel arches radiator tray are all original and Undamaged. David Hillis is making me a new front which should be ready in a couple of weeks. May do the body off first and get the chassis down to Richard Thorpe but haven’t decided yet. Will now take me bit longer but when it’s finished it will be as good as new rather than a bodged mess.
Chris
Chris
Well the body is off and chassis in my other garage ready to strip down and go off for the damaged drivers outrigger and checking to make sure it’s all straight.
Does anyone know if the engine and box can be dropped through the chassis as it would make it much easier for me as I have just about run out of space now.
Many thanks it looked as though it would but worth checking. Removed the fuel tank but absolutely no chance of getting the two bolts out that hold the mounting bracket into the chassis. They are an M10 button Allan head that takes a 6mm allan key. You can’t get a socket in so have to use a standard Allan key. Tried heat penatrating oil etc etc. Any ideas?
Thanks Ian at least with the body off I could get some heat on it but still they won’t move. May have to cut them off as you did and retap them. I considered just leaving them as is but that would mean if I ever wanted to get the fuel tank out again I would be back to square one.
A picture of the damage before the previous owner had the repair done. Wish they hadn’t bothered. In all fairness though the repair is strong and solid and in the right place it’s just the quality of the actual panel is very poor.
A picture of the damage before the previous owner had the repair done. Wish they hadn’t bothered. In all fairness though the repair is strong and solid and in the right place it’s just the quality of the actual panel is very poor.
Well that’s the front suspension and steering rack out. Loads of bolts that were welded in place but will rebuild with copper slip on to avoid this happening again in the furure. Steering rack was a bit tricky to get out and reinstalling it without scratching the new powder coat will be interesting.
If I get a bit of time tomorrow I will start on the rear then dropping the engine and box.
Chris
Thanks guys the chassis is just about stripped now. Just the diff and a few bits and bats. Engine is laying on a small dolly and gearbox just held up with wood. One engine mounting was completely free of its rubber and the same for one gearbox mount. A few more bolts were seized in place so had to be cut off but no major dramas. Chassis will just lift over the engine now. Not sure why the pictures on its side and can’t seem to get it right way round.
[url]Chassis fully stripped down and off to RT for its outrigger sorting.
Engine cleaned up a bit ready to go back in.
I need a little help with the steering rack. When I pulled off the passenger boot off it was full of fluid so I presume the seal has gone. It was the passenger side that was leaking so pretty sure it’s not related to the accident. I removed the steering arm and the plastic spacer which reveals a circlip which I also removed revealing a seal located behind a spacer/washer. It looks a bit tricky to get out. Has anyone done this? Any tips or suggestions appreciated.
Chris
Well not much has been going on at the moment as the chassis is still away and won’t be back for at least a couple of weeks. So just been gathering everything ready for the rebuild. Today I decided to check the Valve clearances so whipped of the rocker cover all the inlets were within tolerance clearances of between 5 and 6 thou and all the exhaust were out, they were between 14 and 16 thou So had to re-shim them all. A fiddly little job even with the engine out. All done now and all exhaust are now between 10 and 11 thou
Well it seems like an age ago that the chassis went away for the outrigger repairing but got it back a couple of weeks ago and dropped it of at my local powder coaters and picked it up today. Must say the job Richard has done at RT is second to none it’s now basically a brand new chassis. The powder coating is also immaculate and now having a Zinc primer will it will outlast me. All wishbones and roll bars were also blasted zinc primed and powder coated so the rebuild can now start. Looking forward to this part of the project.
Edited by chris52 on Monday 13th May 20:48
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