V12V Summer gremlins...Help!!!
Discussion
I went to start my p&j today to take it for a nice run as I’ve not been in it for a few weeks.
For the first time ever, it wouldn’t start. So I assumed the battery had gone flat, (but I’m generally diligent at keeping her periodically charged) so I put the charger on and returned within the hour and found all lights on green, so ready to go I thought.
I again tried to start the engine which again completely refused to turn over, but this time there was a horrendous clicking noise under the dash or in the engine bay that refused to stop at all until a few seconds after completely removing the key. (ECU thingy)
The noise is best described as a starter solenoid sticking, so I put it in gear and rocked the car gently to see if the starter was somehow suck, but this made no difference. After a few more attempts to start the car, the clicking stopped, but the engine still refuses to turn over. Another clicking noise then caught my attention, which turned out to be the hands on the clock rapidly scrolling around 24 hours before coming to rest at the correct time!
The solenoidy clicking noise has not returned, which is also a worry. (Something burned out now?)
Strange messages started to flash up: 1. ‘EMISSION SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED’ and 2. ‘BRAKE FAILURE, STOP SAFELY’
I checked the brake pedal. It feels extremely (possibly unusually) firm. I would expect it to be a lot softer as the engine isn’t running and therefore there’s no servo assistance. The brake pedal feels as I would expect it would if the engine was running with the servo assistance.
I again rocked to car to ensure all wheels are free which they are..(so maybe this is a red herring.)
I checked the battery voltage. 12.75v at the terminals and 12.45v in the engine bay itself.
Engine bay, boot fuses, underside of the car carefully checked for rodent damage or evidence with a torch, thankfully none found. (Fingers firmly crossed on that one…)
My car is kept in a lofted car port with a sealed roller shutter door, and I’m wondering if somehow the summer heat has affected it. (Although I have from time to time opened the door on some of the hotter days to lower the temp.)
Good people out there. Any suggestions? Has anyone encountered similar problems?
I anxiously await your responses….. And many thanks in advance.
For the first time ever, it wouldn’t start. So I assumed the battery had gone flat, (but I’m generally diligent at keeping her periodically charged) so I put the charger on and returned within the hour and found all lights on green, so ready to go I thought.
I again tried to start the engine which again completely refused to turn over, but this time there was a horrendous clicking noise under the dash or in the engine bay that refused to stop at all until a few seconds after completely removing the key. (ECU thingy)
The noise is best described as a starter solenoid sticking, so I put it in gear and rocked the car gently to see if the starter was somehow suck, but this made no difference. After a few more attempts to start the car, the clicking stopped, but the engine still refuses to turn over. Another clicking noise then caught my attention, which turned out to be the hands on the clock rapidly scrolling around 24 hours before coming to rest at the correct time!
The solenoidy clicking noise has not returned, which is also a worry. (Something burned out now?)
Strange messages started to flash up: 1. ‘EMISSION SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED’ and 2. ‘BRAKE FAILURE, STOP SAFELY’
I checked the brake pedal. It feels extremely (possibly unusually) firm. I would expect it to be a lot softer as the engine isn’t running and therefore there’s no servo assistance. The brake pedal feels as I would expect it would if the engine was running with the servo assistance.
I again rocked to car to ensure all wheels are free which they are..(so maybe this is a red herring.)
I checked the battery voltage. 12.75v at the terminals and 12.45v in the engine bay itself.
Engine bay, boot fuses, underside of the car carefully checked for rodent damage or evidence with a torch, thankfully none found. (Fingers firmly crossed on that one…)
My car is kept in a lofted car port with a sealed roller shutter door, and I’m wondering if somehow the summer heat has affected it. (Although I have from time to time opened the door on some of the hotter days to lower the temp.)
Good people out there. Any suggestions? Has anyone encountered similar problems?
I anxiously await your responses….. And many thanks in advance.
Thanks Minglar,
Yes, the car is 2010MY and I’m sure it’s the original battery. I checked and topped up the cell levels back in June this year.
I guess it’s time to get hot and sweaty exchanging the batts!! Are there any dramas involved in doing this. Anything I should look out for?
Maybe I’ll try to jump start from another car, just to see if the motor cranks over and starts with the extra boost. Any thoughts? Any dangers? If it starts and runs ok, then this should put the matter to bed. New battery definitely required!
Yes, the car is 2010MY and I’m sure it’s the original battery. I checked and topped up the cell levels back in June this year.
I guess it’s time to get hot and sweaty exchanging the batts!! Are there any dramas involved in doing this. Anything I should look out for?
Maybe I’ll try to jump start from another car, just to see if the motor cranks over and starts with the extra boost. Any thoughts? Any dangers? If it starts and runs ok, then this should put the matter to bed. New battery definitely required!
That clock thing was so weird!! 
Thanks for that on the the brake pedal. I can’t guarantee that I’d noticed how firm the pedal was before the strange brake safety message flashed up.
I’ve left my Optimate charger and conditioner on all night as the last chance saloon for the battery and will be checking soon.
Thanks for that on the the brake pedal. I can’t guarantee that I’d noticed how firm the pedal was before the strange brake safety message flashed up.
I’ve left my Optimate charger and conditioner on all night as the last chance saloon for the battery and will be checking soon.
Simpo Two said:
My Optimate conditioner goes through charging and discharging cycles to recondition batteries. It has proved very effective in the past, but sadly has not been successful with my V12V this time.
Any recommendations for a replacement?
After my unsuccessful Optimate charge and condition attempt, the battery now shows 16.4v in the engine bay and 17.6v at the battery terminals! A new one on me!!
The engine now starts and runs ok, but the Emission service warning remains.
Even after a nice long drive, the battery voltage remains high, so I’ll still be replacing it.
The engine now starts and runs ok, but the Emission service warning remains.
Even after a nice long drive, the battery voltage remains high, so I’ll still be replacing it.
Have decided to disconnect and remove the battery. Hell, what a job. Carbon seats also make it so much harder as they don’t tilt fully etc. Top tips:
1. Remove wristwatch
2. Protect drivers seat (I used patio chair cushion on seat base)
3. Protect areas between the seats. (Old towels)
4. Disconnect terminals.
5. Remove alloy strip trim
6. Undo rear securing band (torx)
7. Pull forward carpet trim to reveal front of battery NOTE : this panel must come free of the lower left corner!! It will almost click off an inch or so to allow left side panel (as you face rear of car) to be pulled and eased away for the two securing slides to be slide out and off the battery. .if the front panel isn’t eased off the lower corner, you will have the mother of all jobs getting the two sliders off.
8 loosen and slide out the securing slides. (Sounds easy doesn’t it?)
Remove the front band bolt between the slider. Torx 30 (and this must be done before slides removal
9 lift and remove battery between the seats if you have lightweights like me. Lower the battery onto your protected drivers seat befor lifting free from the vehicle.
Hope that helps someone else. That tip about pulling free the lower corner of the carpeted front panel where it meets the lower corner makes all the difference!
1. Remove wristwatch
2. Protect drivers seat (I used patio chair cushion on seat base)
3. Protect areas between the seats. (Old towels)
4. Disconnect terminals.
5. Remove alloy strip trim
6. Undo rear securing band (torx)
7. Pull forward carpet trim to reveal front of battery NOTE : this panel must come free of the lower left corner!! It will almost click off an inch or so to allow left side panel (as you face rear of car) to be pulled and eased away for the two securing slides to be slide out and off the battery. .if the front panel isn’t eased off the lower corner, you will have the mother of all jobs getting the two sliders off.
8 loosen and slide out the securing slides. (Sounds easy doesn’t it?)
Remove the front band bolt between the slider. Torx 30 (and this must be done before slides removal
9 lift and remove battery between the seats if you have lightweights like me. Lower the battery onto your protected drivers seat befor lifting free from the vehicle.
Hope that helps someone else. That tip about pulling free the lower corner of the carpeted front panel where it meets the lower corner makes all the difference!
The car is fine thanks, apart from the emissions service warning that is permanently illuminated now. I’m assuming that it’s time for an O2 sensor or similar??
I was anxious to remove the battery as it was well overcharged and I certainly didn’t want it to harm my electrics. It’s the first time I’ve ever encountered a battery giving off 17 volts. Research shows that this is a possibility and it’s not good for 12v circuitry.
Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
I was anxious to remove the battery as it was well overcharged and I certainly didn’t want it to harm my electrics. It’s the first time I’ve ever encountered a battery giving off 17 volts. Research shows that this is a possibility and it’s not good for 12v circuitry.
Im wondering if it’s entirely necessary to replace with such a massive battery, or are there better alternatives available thesedays?
Simpo Two said:
For battery or charger? I'm sure your charger is fine; for batteries I go to Halfords, mostly for their fitting service. Then it's up to them to get it going again if there are any problems!
And is your car OK now?
Just a note on this. Having now experienced what’s involved removing the battery from a Vantage, (and as a person with 40yrs of mechanics behind me) I’m not sure that I’d ever want to trust this job to the guys at Halfords, who most likely wouldn’t take the time or care to minimise the damage to leather or carbon that I did. No disrespect intended, but a great deal of care is needed to minimise the risk of scratches, damage etc!And is your car OK now?
New battery installed and the p&j is up and running again!
Many thanks to leman600 who suggested that the volts reading on my multimeter may be incorrect. This was indeed the case. For some weird reason the reading was over 3.5 volts over. That explains the head scratching when my initial readings were all over 12v and the engine wouldn’t even consider cranking, so I’m guessing the true voltage was actually under 9v at the time. A shame because my meter was a top of the range Clarke model, so I naturally thought it to be reliable.
Every day’s a school day!! Don’t always trust your meter!
Many thanks to all for the kind advice once again.
Many thanks to leman600 who suggested that the volts reading on my multimeter may be incorrect. This was indeed the case. For some weird reason the reading was over 3.5 volts over. That explains the head scratching when my initial readings were all over 12v and the engine wouldn’t even consider cranking, so I’m guessing the true voltage was actually under 9v at the time. A shame because my meter was a top of the range Clarke model, so I naturally thought it to be reliable.
Every day’s a school day!! Don’t always trust your meter!
Many thanks to all for the kind advice once again.
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