Injector Swap 2008 325i se - Am I being ripped off?
Discussion
bmwmike said:
If all six need changing and if you are paying £217 per injector, then yes, £100 labour assuming it includes coding of each injector isn't bad at all i'd have thought. I'd chuck a new set of plugs and coilpacks in too.
Depends if all six need changing or not, or if the misfire is caused by an injector or a coilpack, or plug, or something else.
All six new injectors is pricey though Thought they were a bit cheaper than £217 though,
Thanks, been told it's just the one (cylinder 1) but since they tend to fail a lot, I might end up in the same position soon , unless I deal with all six of them.Depends if all six need changing or not, or if the misfire is caused by an injector or a coilpack, or plug, or something else.
All six new injectors is pricey though Thought they were a bit cheaper than £217 though,
I could ask for them to fix just that one and sell the car, but that would mean problems for the next owner.
Not sure what to do really.
ReverendCounter said:
Happy to be corrected, OP's getting somewhere now if they want to save £1500.
I AM getting somewhere, thank you everyone! I have done some digging and thanks to you all I now have some understanding of how this stuff works and what I will need to do. Yes, me 1) These injectors just fail, look for index 11 ones
2) Check what is currently installed
3) Probably swap the whole bank since they would all need to be the same index (per bank).
Planning on getting my hands dirty:
1) Read the code and confirm it's injector 1
2) Swap injectors 1 and 2 and check the code again - is it 10 NM on the 10mm screws that hold the rail?
3) Replace injectors 1, 2 and 3 (find a good deal first!)
4) Aaand done. Just sit and wait for bank 2 to fail
Right, did some measurements (connected voltimeter - one pin from the injector power plug and one to the positive on the battery and I am getting around 11V on both injector one and two.
Now I would like to measure the actual output on that plug, someone has mentioned 250V DC, can you confirm which mode should I put the voltimeter to? 200ma or 10A? Don't want to blow the thing!
Thanks in advance.
Now I would like to measure the actual output on that plug, someone has mentioned 250V DC, can you confirm which mode should I put the voltimeter to? 200ma or 10A? Don't want to blow the thing!
Thanks in advance.
Not sure if anyone's following this still, I will re-post and re-focus on my next issue if so...
I need to perform some MOSFET tests (I do know how to btw) I just need some pointers on how to get to this box / get it out.
From top left - Do I disconnect the White, Pink, Blue and Black connectors to make it easier to access it?
Can I do that? Or will it cause issues later on?
I assume the black bit in the middle is some sort of bracket-connector and can be detached from the metal control box?
I have traced all injector power supply cables back into this box, so this has to be the place?
Need to check continuity on all of those injector power leads (green circle) and if all is good - proceed with the MOSFET testing bit.
I would appreciate your input guys, I made it this far, I really don't want to quit yet..
I need to perform some MOSFET tests (I do know how to btw) I just need some pointers on how to get to this box / get it out.
From top left - Do I disconnect the White, Pink, Blue and Black connectors to make it easier to access it?
Can I do that? Or will it cause issues later on?
I assume the black bit in the middle is some sort of bracket-connector and can be detached from the metal control box?
I have traced all injector power supply cables back into this box, so this has to be the place?
Need to check continuity on all of those injector power leads (green circle) and if all is good - proceed with the MOSFET testing bit.
I would appreciate your input guys, I made it this far, I really don't want to quit yet..
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