Bloody pin seized in caliper..
Discussion
When attempting what should have been a quick job changing my brake pads earlier, one of the caliper pins wouldn't budge..using various ham fisted techniques I have now rounded off the head.
I'm picking up a new pin tomorrow but I still have the offending pin stuck in the caliper.
Any ideas of how to get it out? It's a 1998 Honda 600 hornet with the 2 pot nissin calipers.
I thought I may end up having to drill it out but I don't want to ruin the caliper. I also have some screw-outs/easyouts but have never used them before ?
Thanks for any help 😊
I'm picking up a new pin tomorrow but I still have the offending pin stuck in the caliper.
Any ideas of how to get it out? It's a 1998 Honda 600 hornet with the 2 pot nissin calipers.
I thought I may end up having to drill it out but I don't want to ruin the caliper. I also have some screw-outs/easyouts but have never used them before ?
Thanks for any help 😊
Speed addicted said:
Assuming it's an allen headed pin, hammer a torx bit into it and turn it. They're like easy outs for shallow holes!
Otherwise, mole grips from the inside like they said.
I tried the torx bit but it just rounded off the bolt. Will try the mole grips in the morning. Otherwise, mole grips from the inside like they said.
Cheers
Vincefox said:
small gas canister blowtorch. Essential bit of kit. Alternate between this and plusgas. Also, impact helps. If you have a centre punch or similar and a hefty hammer, hitting the head of the pin repeatedly, then heat, then plusgas. Rinse and repeat. It really is a patience game i'm afraid. If you have easy-outs I'd consider them if you're confident.
Thanks again Vince Looks like a trip to stax or screwfix in the morning. I have easy outs but have never used them before so I'll use them as a last resort.
End game will be caliper ripped off and chucked against the garage wall
bgunn said:
Do NOT consider an easy out. They are anything but - the force you'll be applying to drive the easy out makes the thread grip harder, then they shatter being very hard, then you need to spark erode them out.
If the thread is thoroughly mullered and the pin not removable, drilling out the pin with the caliper on the bench and helicoil is definitely the right way to fix.
cheersIf the thread is thoroughly mullered and the pin not removable, drilling out the pin with the caliper on the bench and helicoil is definitely the right way to fix.
"off to google what helicoil is"
So I bought a blow torch and various other tools put the shelf with the plusgas on was empty...typical
I've heated it many times, used mole grips and wd40 for what it's worth and hammered in torx bits, but nothing was working. I then decided to use a small drill to try and break it down and eventually the bottom half of the pin broke off releasing the pads.
But..the screw part was still jammed in the caliper. So I used a bigger 5mm drill bit and then a 6mm. The pictures below are what I'm left with.
Shall I just use a 7mm bit and drill the rest out or is there a chance that I can remove it and save the thread??
I've heated it many times, used mole grips and wd40 for what it's worth and hammered in torx bits, but nothing was working. I then decided to use a small drill to try and break it down and eventually the bottom half of the pin broke off releasing the pads.
But..the screw part was still jammed in the caliper. So I used a bigger 5mm drill bit and then a 6mm. The pictures below are what I'm left with.
Shall I just use a 7mm bit and drill the rest out or is there a chance that I can remove it and save the thread??
PurpleTurtle said:
Of course, you don't *need* to rebuild it, I was just saying that, faced with this problem in the past, I've taken the opportunity of the caliper being off the bike, brake lines disconnected etc to go 'full monty' (given the relative low cost of rebuild kits etc).
Obviously if the pistons are moving freely and the OP is happy to wang it straight on the bike then that's fine to do. In my experience the quality of used calipers can vary greatly, I was just highlighting an option if it turns up and isn't as great as expected.
Thanks for the advice Obviously if the pistons are moving freely and the OP is happy to wang it straight on the bike then that's fine to do. In my experience the quality of used calipers can vary greatly, I was just highlighting an option if it turns up and isn't as great as expected.
I'll be taking both sides off and giving them a good clean up. I did have a look at the link you kindly put up but as I'll be upgrading the bike soon I'll only replace the seals if I really have to. All this is good experience though as I've never even bled brakes before, changing pads was as far as I've gone, anything else and I'd just take it to someone more competent ...
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