Braided Clutch Hose - Anyone Using One?
Discussion
Hi guys,
With my clutch replacement and S-10 tail housing job fast approaching I'm now exploring every last little way to ensure the project is the very best success it can be.
So as per the title......
"Has anyone switched from the solid copper/cunifer clutch pipe to a braided flxi clutch hose?"
I'm very aware (in terms of compressibility) there is nothing better than a solid pipe, but there are also a number of potential benefits in switching to a braided hose.
Namely:
1. A braided rubber flexi will be way less thermally conductive than the standard copper/cunifer pipe
2. A braided rubber flexi allows for a shorter straighter run as there is no requirement for the anti vibration loops essential to stop stress fractures in a solid copper/cunifer pipe
3. A braided rubber flexi may also slightly increase the fluid capacity of the system which currently suffers from the very small old school Girling type integrated egg cup capacity reservoir
The biggest potential benefit to me in switching from a solid clutch pipe to braided flexi is the thermal conductive improvements it offers and it's possible this advantage alone could out way the zero compressability benefit of a solid pipe.
There is very little to beat copper as a conductor of heat, the thin wall copper clutch pipe in the high temperature TVR engine bay environment is definitely transferring a significant amount of that heat to the fluid because I've removed the master cylinder lid & felt it.
Indeed if you get under the car and feel the clutch pipe itself after an hour or so of driving the pipe gets very hot to the touch indeed, the subsequent transfer of heat to the clutch fluid being very undesirable.
I appreciate it's a little detail but in my experience lots of little well chosen details can all add up to a big improvement, I'm thinking if I'm going to move to a braided hose I may as well do it now as part of my comprehensive package of upcoming clutch and gear shift mods.
"So has anyone switched from the solid copper/cunifer clutch pipe to a braided flxi clutch hose, and if so what were your findings (if any) from the switch?"
With my clutch replacement and S-10 tail housing job fast approaching I'm now exploring every last little way to ensure the project is the very best success it can be.
So as per the title......
"Has anyone switched from the solid copper/cunifer clutch pipe to a braided flxi clutch hose?"
I'm very aware (in terms of compressibility) there is nothing better than a solid pipe, but there are also a number of potential benefits in switching to a braided hose.
Namely:
1. A braided rubber flexi will be way less thermally conductive than the standard copper/cunifer pipe
2. A braided rubber flexi allows for a shorter straighter run as there is no requirement for the anti vibration loops essential to stop stress fractures in a solid copper/cunifer pipe
3. A braided rubber flexi may also slightly increase the fluid capacity of the system which currently suffers from the very small old school Girling type integrated egg cup capacity reservoir
The biggest potential benefit to me in switching from a solid clutch pipe to braided flexi is the thermal conductive improvements it offers and it's possible this advantage alone could out way the zero compressability benefit of a solid pipe.
There is very little to beat copper as a conductor of heat, the thin wall copper clutch pipe in the high temperature TVR engine bay environment is definitely transferring a significant amount of that heat to the fluid because I've removed the master cylinder lid & felt it.
Indeed if you get under the car and feel the clutch pipe itself after an hour or so of driving the pipe gets very hot to the touch indeed, the subsequent transfer of heat to the clutch fluid being very undesirable.
I appreciate it's a little detail but in my experience lots of little well chosen details can all add up to a big improvement, I'm thinking if I'm going to move to a braided hose I may as well do it now as part of my comprehensive package of upcoming clutch and gear shift mods.
"So has anyone switched from the solid copper/cunifer clutch pipe to a braided flxi clutch hose, and if so what were your findings (if any) from the switch?"
carsy said:
Hi Dave, yes i`ve fitted a braided flexi hose. I just wasnt too keen on the rigid original, plus mine had seen better days.
Have i seen an improvement in clutch performance ! If i`m honest i wouldnt really know as i replaced mine when i did my body off restoration and i hadnt really used the car much before that so havent really anything to compare it to. One thing it used to do on the old pipe was after a long journey, it didnt want to come out of gear when changing gear. Shortly after this tho my master cylinder gave up. So possibly this was the culprit for that, who knows.
It does look nice though.
One thing it has helped with is bleeding the clutch. When i first got the car i had terrible problems getting all the air out of the slave. Tried everything nose of the car high up etc. still struggled to get a decent pedal. Now i just take the slave off and with the flexi pipe i can have the bleed nipple and flexi pipe facing directly upwards and just manually push the cylinder in a few times and the bubbles escape through the master cylinder. Piece of cake and each time i`ve done it a perfect pedal.
For the sake of £15 which was what mine was i`d say do it.
An excellent and very honest answer there Ian, even if there are no other benefits the bleeding advantage alone seems well worth the switch especially as you're saying its only £15.Have i seen an improvement in clutch performance ! If i`m honest i wouldnt really know as i replaced mine when i did my body off restoration and i hadnt really used the car much before that so havent really anything to compare it to. One thing it used to do on the old pipe was after a long journey, it didnt want to come out of gear when changing gear. Shortly after this tho my master cylinder gave up. So possibly this was the culprit for that, who knows.
It does look nice though.
One thing it has helped with is bleeding the clutch. When i first got the car i had terrible problems getting all the air out of the slave. Tried everything nose of the car high up etc. still struggled to get a decent pedal. Now i just take the slave off and with the flexi pipe i can have the bleed nipple and flexi pipe facing directly upwards and just manually push the cylinder in a few times and the bubbles escape through the master cylinder. Piece of cake and each time i`ve done it a perfect pedal.
For the sake of £15 which was what mine was i`d say do it.
Can you link me to the £15 braided clutch hose with the correct ends please, is it being sold by a TVR parts specialist?
It definitely makes sense to change by clutch fluid when my new clutch goes in, so assuming there are no downsides it also makes sense to move to the braided clutch hose at the same time.
Further to my S-10 tail housing post I am totally committed to doing absolutely everything I can to ensure my clutch is super light and progressive, and that my T5 gear shift is as slick, direct and precise as it can be.
To this end I know Lloyd Specialist Developments will be checking, lubricating and adjusting everything to make 100% sure we are getting the very best result from the modifications we're making. I firmly believe I either have clutch drag or a fractionally warped driven plate which is causing the sticky gear engagement issues when hot.
But perhaps my lightened standard cast flywheel is at fault too? Perhaps the TVR gear shift linkage that I know got slightly bent (then supposedly corrected) when the Helix clutch went in is adding to the problem? Perhaps it's just an adjustment thing or consequence of the clutch fluid getting too hot combined with the overly heavy Helix clutch that makes first & second gears sticky when the car gets heat soaked?
Perhaps it's a little bit of all the above
What ever the reason I'm now totally determined (with the help of my friends at Lloyds) to completely resolving this annoying trait and making the gear shift and clutch operation what I know it should be, and maybe amongst it all we might even achieve something better than when the car left Bristol Avenue way back in 1996?
I'm making a whole host of changes to try and achieve my goal, some small and in the case of the S-10 tail housing some not so small. I expect some of what I've got planned will make a good improvement and some will prove completely unnecessary, but I'm not taking any chances this time so it's getting the lot!
The braided clutch flexi may not make a massive improvement to clutch feel and the dragging issue (if any), but like you say Ian for £15 it's a no-brainer.
Please let me know where I can buy one
Many thanks for your feedback, Dave
carsy said:
Sorry Dave, i cant link you to anything, i just got it made up at my local hydraulics place.
No problem mate.Can you remind me of the fittings at the master and slave cylinder ends please, perhaps you can also give me an indication of the length of hose you had made up?
I know I have the original pipe so it should be all standard fitting wise, once I have all of the above info I'll nip down to Pirtek and have one made up.
Thanks in advance, Dave.
What you're trying to do here is stop the heat being transferred to the fluid in the first place, so what you need is good insulation!The bare pipe is just that, bare, so has zero insulation against heat, it's also made from Kunifer which is a nickel/copper alloy so will conduct heat from adjacent hot components (exhaust manifold) absolutely brilliantly, being a copper alloy it will then transfer that heat to the fluid extremely effectively.
A braided hose on the other hand is really a rubber hose with steel braiding over it, rubber is of course a brilliant insulator and the stainless braiding over it will help reflect some of the heat in the first place.
Seriously, a braided rubber hose will offer far superior heat insulation than a bare Kunifer pipe and your flud will stay cooler
If it didn't work like that they wouldn't sell many oven gloves would they, and copper bottomed saucepans wouldn't be very popular either 
Sardonicus said:
A braided hose is PTFE pipe (same as oil capillary pipe on old school Fords etc) wrapped in a stainless steel braid
Fair correction Simon, but PTFE is still a good insulator isn't it.You don't get many copper over gloves, and PTFE saucepan bottoms never really caught on
Brilliant Gareth, that's super helpful for those considering going to a flexi, I've been running mine for a year or so now and it works perfectly
But I have to say the clutch hydraulic system on our cars does have one key weakness no hose could ever hope to solve, the issue being air in the system...... which in my experience is a perennial problem all Chimaeras suffer with annoying regularity, a problem that directly relates to the fact TVR chose a Girling master cylinder (common to many British cars from the 1960's & 70's), this type of master cylinder was specifically designed to be mounted in a horizontal position.
The Girling unit is a Non-residual Pressure Master Cylinder, this type of master cylinder contains the pressure chamber and an end fluid reservoir, the piston operates in the pressure chamber whereas the reservoir permits additional fluid to enter into or return from the system to maintain a constant volume during temperature changes and any seepage of fluid in the system.
Reservoir volume is extremely important, even when mounted correctly a Girling master cylinder reservoir capacity is minuscule, holding a header of just 45ml of fluid. Actually only 35ml sits above the port so even mounted horizontally there's very little safety margin, make no mistake if that little port you can see at the bottom of the reservoir ever gets revealed, and the cylinder isn't already completely at the end of it's stroke, the system will no longer draw fluid..... it'll draw air instead!
Air being the enemy of any hydraulic system, because unlike a fluid..... air is compressible!
Study the effect on reservoir volume when you fail to correctly mount the cylinder horizontally as the Girling designers intended, incorrectly mount it at an angle as TVR did and your already tiny 35ml header of fluid in the reservoir suddenly becomes just 22ml because you simply can't fill it with any more fluid before it spills over the lowest edge of the reservoir top
Now consider what happens when you operate your clutch, as you press down on the pedal the fluid inside your master cylinder is forced under huge pressure into the slave cylinder which extends to act on your clutch release arm. Very quickly the fluid in your master cylinder is all used up as it fills the extending slave cylinder, so the master cylinder will always need a supply of additional fluid that is greater than the volume of the master cylinder itself, this is why we need a reservoir.
EXAMPLE 1 (Correct Horizontal Installation)
The figures used in my two examples are just that, examples. But as we can see example one tells us the volume of reserve fluid above port when both cylinders are fully stroked in a horizontally mounted master cylinder will be a safe 18ml, however in example two where the master cylinder is mounted at an angle we will only have a tiny 3ml of fluid above the port when both cylinders are fully stroked. Now consider what would happen if you've leaked just 4ml of fluid over time, which is super common because lets face it Girling master & slave cylinders aren't the best
Suddenly the calculation looks like this: 5 + 20 - 4ml leakage - 22 = -1ml reserve fluid above port
If your reserve fluid falls below the port (-1ml) the system will be drawing a tiny amount of air every time you operate the clutch, over an extended period all those tiny pockets of air all line up to create one larger and very easily compressible bubble. The outcome being even when you push your clutch pedal right to the floor the slave will never be quite 100% extended, so the clutch will not actually be fully disengaged. Like this the driven plate will be very slightly dragging making gear selection feel baulky, if the problem is slight the resistance may not be felt when changing gear on the move but you sure as hell will have trouble popping the car into first when you're sat stationary at the lights and preparing to pull away.
Actually I've discovered on my Chimaera I can get away with a bit of air in the system, but obviously like this the clutch bite point gets closer to the floor but you can still get all gears, I suspect if you analysed the clutch hydraulics of 100 Chimaeras 95 of them would have some air present. But the truth is they are right on the edge of clutch drag, all you need is a bit more air or something else to change and you'll be in trouble. That something else comes in the form of heat, while the fliud can get hot and the slave cylinder can get overheated from heat transfer from the engine block this is only part of the issue, what also happens is the pressure plate becomes heat soaked making it expand.
It's one of those situations where a single issue on its own is not enough to cause a problem, but an accumulation of multiple issues can be enough to push what is already a compromised and marginal setup outside of operational tolerance, the straw that breaks the camel's back is usually heat because heat rises with use, and after a number of hours of driving the transmission tunnel and all the components in that area can become very heat soaked on a Chimaera.
At this point things can add up to a critical mass situation that normally manifests itself as a baulky gear box in stop start driving on a hot day after the car has been driven for over an hour or so, this on a Chimaera that had lovey gear selection when started from cold and for the first hour of driving.
A small amount of air + a hot slave cylinder + heated clutch fluid + a hot pressure plate = poor gear selection when stationary
Keep in mind if you've checked your clutch fluid recently and found it was even a few ml off brimmed... you've almost certainly got some air in your system. Topping the reservoir up to the brim again does not get rid of that air, it only stops more air being introduced.
Only bleeding the system will resolve the issue, but bleeding a Chimaera clutch system can be problematic in itself, clearly you need to replenish the reservoir 'up top' at the same rate as you're releasing fluid at the slave 'down below' when you open the bleed nipple. Because with the master cylinder fitted at an angle there's so little reserve fluid above port it's super easy you reveal the port and introduce air if you're not topping up quickly enough.
It is therefore absolutely imperative to have an assistant up top filling the reservoir when bleeding a Chimaera's clutch hydraulics.
Actually the small capacity offered by an integral reservoir Girling master cylinder is a well know issue outside of TVR circles, even on a car where the master cylinder is correctly horizontally mounted because the 35ml capacity is right on the very limit of being adequate, so mounting the master cylinder at an angle as TVR did was asking for trouble. People running Girling master cylinders on a competition car will often use one that has a remote reservoir, this can then be made as big as you like and as long as it's mounted higher than the master cylinder it will work extremely well and solve the problem.
For those like us who struggle with space and cannot find a location above the master cylinder for a larger remote reservoir, a reservoir extension was developed, this simply screws on where your reservoir cap goes and hey presto you've instantly doubled your fluid capacity
At £26.00 a pop these reservoir extenders are expensive for what they are, and then you've got the added issue of modifying your TVR fiberglass clutch master cylinder cover, but I still think it would be a great addition to any Chimaera for the reasons I've covered above. To that end I've just bought one, I'll try to fit it this weekend as my cluch hydraulics need bleeding and I'll let you all now how I get on.
For anyone interested in all this, you can buy this reservoir extender here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Master-Cylinder...
Dave.
But I have to say the clutch hydraulic system on our cars does have one key weakness no hose could ever hope to solve, the issue being air in the system...... which in my experience is a perennial problem all Chimaeras suffer with annoying regularity, a problem that directly relates to the fact TVR chose a Girling master cylinder (common to many British cars from the 1960's & 70's), this type of master cylinder was specifically designed to be mounted in a horizontal position.
The Girling unit is a Non-residual Pressure Master Cylinder, this type of master cylinder contains the pressure chamber and an end fluid reservoir, the piston operates in the pressure chamber whereas the reservoir permits additional fluid to enter into or return from the system to maintain a constant volume during temperature changes and any seepage of fluid in the system.
Reservoir volume is extremely important, even when mounted correctly a Girling master cylinder reservoir capacity is minuscule, holding a header of just 45ml of fluid. Actually only 35ml sits above the port so even mounted horizontally there's very little safety margin, make no mistake if that little port you can see at the bottom of the reservoir ever gets revealed, and the cylinder isn't already completely at the end of it's stroke, the system will no longer draw fluid..... it'll draw air instead!
Air being the enemy of any hydraulic system, because unlike a fluid..... air is compressible!
Study the effect on reservoir volume when you fail to correctly mount the cylinder horizontally as the Girling designers intended, incorrectly mount it at an angle as TVR did and your already tiny 35ml header of fluid in the reservoir suddenly becomes just 22ml because you simply can't fill it with any more fluid before it spills over the lowest edge of the reservoir top
Now consider what happens when you operate your clutch, as you press down on the pedal the fluid inside your master cylinder is forced under huge pressure into the slave cylinder which extends to act on your clutch release arm. Very quickly the fluid in your master cylinder is all used up as it fills the extending slave cylinder, so the master cylinder will always need a supply of additional fluid that is greater than the volume of the master cylinder itself, this is why we need a reservoir.
EXAMPLE 1 (Correct Horizontal Installation)
- Volume of fluid held within the master cylinder = 5ml
- Volume of additional fluid held within the mater cylinder reservoir when mounted horizontally = 35ml
- Volume of fluid occupied by the fully extended slave cylinder = 22ml
- So with the Girling master cylinder mounted horizontally the calculation looks like this: 5 + 35 - 22 = 18ml reserve fluid above port
- Volume of fluid held within the master cylinder = 5ml (this does not change)
- Volume of additional fluid held within the mater cylinder reservoir when mounted at an angle = 20ml
- Volume of fluid occupied by the fully extended slave cylinder = 28ml (this does not change)
- So with the Girling master cylinder mounted at an angle the calculation looks like this: 5 + 20 - 22 = 3ml reserve fluid above port
The figures used in my two examples are just that, examples. But as we can see example one tells us the volume of reserve fluid above port when both cylinders are fully stroked in a horizontally mounted master cylinder will be a safe 18ml, however in example two where the master cylinder is mounted at an angle we will only have a tiny 3ml of fluid above the port when both cylinders are fully stroked. Now consider what would happen if you've leaked just 4ml of fluid over time, which is super common because lets face it Girling master & slave cylinders aren't the best
Suddenly the calculation looks like this: 5 + 20 - 4ml leakage - 22 = -1ml reserve fluid above port
If your reserve fluid falls below the port (-1ml) the system will be drawing a tiny amount of air every time you operate the clutch, over an extended period all those tiny pockets of air all line up to create one larger and very easily compressible bubble. The outcome being even when you push your clutch pedal right to the floor the slave will never be quite 100% extended, so the clutch will not actually be fully disengaged. Like this the driven plate will be very slightly dragging making gear selection feel baulky, if the problem is slight the resistance may not be felt when changing gear on the move but you sure as hell will have trouble popping the car into first when you're sat stationary at the lights and preparing to pull away.
Actually I've discovered on my Chimaera I can get away with a bit of air in the system, but obviously like this the clutch bite point gets closer to the floor but you can still get all gears, I suspect if you analysed the clutch hydraulics of 100 Chimaeras 95 of them would have some air present. But the truth is they are right on the edge of clutch drag, all you need is a bit more air or something else to change and you'll be in trouble. That something else comes in the form of heat, while the fliud can get hot and the slave cylinder can get overheated from heat transfer from the engine block this is only part of the issue, what also happens is the pressure plate becomes heat soaked making it expand.
It's one of those situations where a single issue on its own is not enough to cause a problem, but an accumulation of multiple issues can be enough to push what is already a compromised and marginal setup outside of operational tolerance, the straw that breaks the camel's back is usually heat because heat rises with use, and after a number of hours of driving the transmission tunnel and all the components in that area can become very heat soaked on a Chimaera.
At this point things can add up to a critical mass situation that normally manifests itself as a baulky gear box in stop start driving on a hot day after the car has been driven for over an hour or so, this on a Chimaera that had lovey gear selection when started from cold and for the first hour of driving.
A small amount of air + a hot slave cylinder + heated clutch fluid + a hot pressure plate = poor gear selection when stationary
Keep in mind if you've checked your clutch fluid recently and found it was even a few ml off brimmed... you've almost certainly got some air in your system. Topping the reservoir up to the brim again does not get rid of that air, it only stops more air being introduced.
Only bleeding the system will resolve the issue, but bleeding a Chimaera clutch system can be problematic in itself, clearly you need to replenish the reservoir 'up top' at the same rate as you're releasing fluid at the slave 'down below' when you open the bleed nipple. Because with the master cylinder fitted at an angle there's so little reserve fluid above port it's super easy you reveal the port and introduce air if you're not topping up quickly enough.
It is therefore absolutely imperative to have an assistant up top filling the reservoir when bleeding a Chimaera's clutch hydraulics.
Actually the small capacity offered by an integral reservoir Girling master cylinder is a well know issue outside of TVR circles, even on a car where the master cylinder is correctly horizontally mounted because the 35ml capacity is right on the very limit of being adequate, so mounting the master cylinder at an angle as TVR did was asking for trouble. People running Girling master cylinders on a competition car will often use one that has a remote reservoir, this can then be made as big as you like and as long as it's mounted higher than the master cylinder it will work extremely well and solve the problem.
For those like us who struggle with space and cannot find a location above the master cylinder for a larger remote reservoir, a reservoir extension was developed, this simply screws on where your reservoir cap goes and hey presto you've instantly doubled your fluid capacity
At £26.00 a pop these reservoir extenders are expensive for what they are, and then you've got the added issue of modifying your TVR fiberglass clutch master cylinder cover, but I still think it would be a great addition to any Chimaera for the reasons I've covered above. To that end I've just bought one, I'll try to fit it this weekend as my cluch hydraulics need bleeding and I'll let you all now how I get on.
For anyone interested in all this, you can buy this reservoir extender here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Master-Cylinder...
Dave.
GR_TVR said:
I suppose with the extension you could cut a hole in the middle of the cover to allow the reservoir to poke through, and then just seal around it...or something to that effect. May prove to be the best way forward!
Yep, that's the plan 
1. Remove the fiberglass cover
2. Fit the reservoir extender to the master cylinder
2. Cut a hole in the fiberglass cover
3. Fit a suitable size rubber grommet to the hole cut in the fiberglass cover so it seals the reservoir extender
4. Use Sugru to create a rubber bead around the edge of the hole in the inner wing
5. When the Sugru has gone off put the modified cover over the reservoir extender and screw it firmly home
6. Bleed the system
7. Refit the cap and test
I still want to be able to remove the cover so I can occasionally check the reservoir extender is sealing properly, but with my above proposed setup, and the clear reservoir extender poking through the top of the cover, a visual level check and or top up becomes a much easier and faster process.
The master cylinder angle and the limited reserves of fluid held in the standard reservoir are genuine issues on a Chimaera. It's also worth remembering the fluid will be moving around quite a bit when heavily cornering, accelerating and braking. If the fluid is already a bit low, you're driving aggressively, and you're on & off the clutch rowing through the gears.... I'd speculate this can be when you're most likely to introduce air.
I'll keep you all posted on this one
Dave.
As I understand these concentric type hydraulic release bearing/slave assemblies can be far more susceptible to head soak than an old school external slave and release arm arrangement.
This would make sense as this type of slave slips over the gearbox first motion shaft which transfers heat directly from the transmission very well indeed, the metal bodied slave also directly abuts and acts on the release bearing, and as we all know....bearings make heat!
Then the other end the first motion shaft sits in another bearing (or bush) which is pressed into the hot crank, finally the whole lot is nicely surrounded by a bell housing where the heat is very effectively contained due to extremely limited air flow, compare this with an external slave that sits out in open airflow and it's not hard to see which of the two systems would run hotter.
In summary, to blame the little pipe or hose that links the Cerbera master cylinder to its concentric type hydraulic release bearing/slave assembly that's sat inside the bell housing drawing heat from the transmission, clutch and engine..... may be a bit off the mark I'd say
This would make sense as this type of slave slips over the gearbox first motion shaft which transfers heat directly from the transmission very well indeed, the metal bodied slave also directly abuts and acts on the release bearing, and as we all know....bearings make heat!
Then the other end the first motion shaft sits in another bearing (or bush) which is pressed into the hot crank, finally the whole lot is nicely surrounded by a bell housing where the heat is very effectively contained due to extremely limited air flow, compare this with an external slave that sits out in open airflow and it's not hard to see which of the two systems would run hotter.
In summary, to blame the little pipe or hose that links the Cerbera master cylinder to its concentric type hydraulic release bearing/slave assembly that's sat inside the bell housing drawing heat from the transmission, clutch and engine..... may be a bit off the mark I'd say
Belle427 said:
Got the hose made up, wallet now £55 lighter 
Made it long enough to go down the back of the engine first and then back around avoiding most of the heat.
Fittings were 7/16 UNF at the slave end and M12 X 1.0 at the bulkhead manifold block.
Made it long enough to go down the back of the engine first and then back around avoiding most of the heat.
Fittings were 7/16 UNF at the slave end and M12 X 1.0 at the bulkhead manifold block.
I've been happy with my braided hose, what I've never been impressed with is the way TVR mounted the mater cylinder and how little fluid you have in reserve before the port is exposed and the system starts sucking in air
My reservoir extender should arrive today
phillpot said:
ChimpOnGas said:
My reservoir extender should arrive today
Bought a pair of these reservoir extenders a while back off Ebay, they were from a Lotus of some sort?This one is on my S3 the other is on the Griff, a modified cover is "work in progress"
Any feedback mate
Steve_D said:
Has anyone got a link to those extenders?
The only ones I have found were plastic but the ali ones look good.
Steve
I just ordered the plastic one as that's all that seems to be available. I've searched for the ally since it was revealed here, but no luck.The only ones I have found were plastic but the ali ones look good.
Steve
My concern is will it leak, ally or plastic both look like they double the fluid capacity so if these reservoir extenders don't seal perfectly that's quite a bit of brake fluid going in the footwell.
The way I see it the extender is still well worth a try as I'm convinced the sucking air issue is more common that people realise, certainly on my car I find my self bleeding the clutch annually which always makes it feel nicer, for a while at least.
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