Concentric Clutch Slave

[BoostedChim]

Is anyone using a concentric slave on their T5 box? I've got my T5 out at the moment and I'm thinking of giving it a try. Burton do a kit for the cossies which I'm guessing looks like it'll fit.
http://www.burtonpower.com/hydraulic-clutch-cylind...

Retro Ford doing something very similar and they also offer a version with the radiused relase bearing which I think is what I'll probably go for.
http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/content/t5-coswor...

Both of those Ford kits look like they are using Mondeo slave cylinders. RPI are also offering a similar solution but with what looks like a Saab slave. I did enquiry about selling only the slave and mounting adaptor but they weren't keen.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Borg-Warner-BW-T5-5-Spee...

I've dropped both Burton and Retro Ford asking if they know any reason why it won't work.

[BoostedChim]

I know my brother's LS uses one and its a lot lighter than mine, I quite like the linear feel to it as well. I'm hoping for something similar.

[BoostedChim]

I did find some guys using the Tilton kit on kit cars. They use the 61-612 adapter to replace the bearing retainer and the design looks good with the threaded tube.
http://www.competitionsupplies.com/clutches-flywhe...

[BoostedChim]

I quite like the RWD one, I don't really want to replace the front bearing retainer. I like the idea of it fitting over the steel bearing retainer. Depending on your clutch you might need this version if you've got straight clutch fingers. http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/borg-warner-t5-hydrau... I haven't checked the size of the bearing though. My current one is 52mm but as the RWD one needs the guide tube removing theres a good chance the zetec slave is a smaller diameter.

The other option I found was the Reyland one http://www.reyland.co.uk/clutchtransmission/ Heres a better picture


This still uses the steel bearing retainer but does require some machining to it. I'm guessing its shortening or removing the guide tube like the RWD. The Reyland one also looks like it uses the Omega V6 slave, which from the auction below says its got a 35mm bore which would work great with the standard retainer as its 1.37" (34.8mm)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161891841302?_trksid=p20...

At the moment I'm planning on making a similar adaptor and use a Omega slave cylinder, I want to make it so that I can still remove the gearbox without the bellhousing, thats a must. From some of the cossie pictures I've seen its looks like they remove the box and bellhousing together due to the hoses. I'm hoping I can use some sort of retainer bolt to hold the adapter to the retainer that can be released to slide the gearbox out.

[BoostedChim]

That looks really good installed Pupp. If you can get to the three mounting bolts of the slave from the access hole then you can slide the gearbox out without the bell housing. Fiddly, but doen't look impossible. Its not a question of strength to remove the box and bellhousing togehter its theres not enough room on mine, the bellhousing hits the bulkhead before the input shaft is clear of the driveplate.

I think I might of found an adaptor for the bleed.
Earls Adapter

[BoostedChim]

So have you got to pull the flat bearing off and then use your master to press the radius bearing on?

[BoostedChim]

That sounds like a clever solution. Burton told me you can't change the bearing without damaging the piston seal so I wondered how they did it. If you get a chance would you mind measuring the rough ID & OD of your new release bearing. I like the idea of using a smaller diameter bearing so you get more leverage on the fingers. I'll bolt my clutch up tonight and check I've got the same 46mm.

[BoostedChim]

Thanks for that Gary, the radiused nose looks spot on. Do you think you're going to need any of the spacers to bring your slave closer to the clutch?

[BoostedChim]

Yeah I was looking at the Merlin ones too. If its not the same bolt pattern I guessed it would be close, maybe a bit of drilling and filing. How does the secondary seal work, does that need to seal against the aluminium adapator to be fluid tight?

[BoostedChim]

What about 3 of these if you're not already using some? 9mm will just mean the piston is 2mm further out and allow a bit more for a worn clutch. Just to be sure you could get a short ali tube to locate into the adapter and help allign the spacers.

http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/content/clutch-re...

[BoostedChim]

Keep us posted Gary, especially regarding the master cylinder mounting. That 0.5 master should be very light.

[BoostedChim]

Looking good, the radius nose is taller than I thought it would be but I guess that helps reduce the height of the spacer and makes it easier to hold whilst in the lathe. I really like the spacer that looks perfect for the job, far better than stacked up spacers. Could you post a link to your master cylinder please. I couldn't find a 0.5 on Merlins site. I think I'd be tempted to make or modify my existing fibreglass cover too and keep the reservoir in the footwell, I just like a tidy engine bay.

[BoostedChim]

Thanks for posting that Gary, that's a shame the 0.5 didn't work. But really useful for everyone else.