New owner - TVR Chimaera 500
Discussion
Hi all,
I’ve just acquired a Starmist Blue 1996 TVR Chimaera 500. It’s my first TVR and V8, and I’m rather excited by it all!
It’s been fitted with the ACT carbon plenum with twin throttle bodies. I think it may have been chipped (possibly Tornado) but I need to check this out to confirm.
It was running pretty poorly when I got it - it wouldn’t idle on it’s own and needed input from the throttle to keep it going. It was also running incredibly rich (I think it might still be) and kangarooing, only one fan was working and the temp gauge wasn’t working. The stepper motor had been blanked off as well.
I browsed the forums for help (I wasn’t able to post due to a forum lockdown on new members) and have done the following up to now:
Changed ECU coolant sensor.
Ditched the TVR temp sender and bought a new LR one, and using the resistor method got the gauge working.
Cleaned the stepper motor and reconnected.
New oil, oil filter, spark plugs, air filter.
All of the above dramatically improved the running! It is now able to idle on it’s own, running at least less rich than it was, and the kangarooing has almost subsided completely. I’ve also got both fans working.
Here’s a quick picture - I’ll update with more when I get the chance (I’ve a busy day ahead prepping for the MOT, new rear discs and pads plus new upper ball joints on the front).
I’ve got a few problems/questions that I’ll list:
1.When starting the car it idles at around 1000rpm, but as the car warms up this rises to 16-1800rpm. I’ve read that this could be the stepper motor not working correctly, or perhaps the base idle needs adjusting? I’m not sure how to do this on the ACT set up. Is anyone able to offer some help on this?
2.The 100A fuse underneath the car has been bypassed and the cables just linked up. Should I be re-fitting a 100A fuse?
3.The battery doesn’t seem to hold charge. It’s less than a year old and seems to be a robust AGM type (Exide EP450 Dual AGM (Maxxima MAX900DC)) that should cope easily I believe. I’ve been using a Ctek AGM charger overnight - it then performs fine but if the car is used during the day it gets to a point where it won’t turn the car over and needs charging again.
I’m not entirely sure yet if something is draining the battery or the battery is knackered…my next steps were to try disconnecting it for a couple of days and then trying to use it - does this seem sensible?
If it is the battery, it should still be under warranty so I should be able to get a replacement, hopefully.
4. At the risk of starting a huge debate again, I need 4 new tyres. The car has raceline RL-7 alloys, all of which are 17” and 8J et30. It’s currently got 215/40/17 on the front and 245/40/17 on the back. Are these sizes correct for the alloys? The 215 looks a little stretched but I’d imagine any bigger may well rub at the front?
Uniroyal RainSport 3 seem to come recommended - I don’t intend on taking the car out in the wet, and probably not any track days at this stage, is this still a good tyre to go for?
For those sizes the fronts would be 87Y XL tyres and the rears 91Y (not XL). Would these match OK? If you change the size at the rear to 235/45/17 you can have 94Y or 97Y XL.
That’s already looking like a lot of questions so I apologise and I’ll stop there!
Any help is much appreciated, and I look forward to being part of the community going forward
Cheers,
Gareth
I’ve just acquired a Starmist Blue 1996 TVR Chimaera 500. It’s my first TVR and V8, and I’m rather excited by it all!
It’s been fitted with the ACT carbon plenum with twin throttle bodies. I think it may have been chipped (possibly Tornado) but I need to check this out to confirm.
It was running pretty poorly when I got it - it wouldn’t idle on it’s own and needed input from the throttle to keep it going. It was also running incredibly rich (I think it might still be) and kangarooing, only one fan was working and the temp gauge wasn’t working. The stepper motor had been blanked off as well.
I browsed the forums for help (I wasn’t able to post due to a forum lockdown on new members) and have done the following up to now:
Changed ECU coolant sensor.
Ditched the TVR temp sender and bought a new LR one, and using the resistor method got the gauge working.
Cleaned the stepper motor and reconnected.
New oil, oil filter, spark plugs, air filter.
All of the above dramatically improved the running! It is now able to idle on it’s own, running at least less rich than it was, and the kangarooing has almost subsided completely. I’ve also got both fans working.
Here’s a quick picture - I’ll update with more when I get the chance (I’ve a busy day ahead prepping for the MOT, new rear discs and pads plus new upper ball joints on the front).
I’ve got a few problems/questions that I’ll list:
1.When starting the car it idles at around 1000rpm, but as the car warms up this rises to 16-1800rpm. I’ve read that this could be the stepper motor not working correctly, or perhaps the base idle needs adjusting? I’m not sure how to do this on the ACT set up. Is anyone able to offer some help on this?
2.The 100A fuse underneath the car has been bypassed and the cables just linked up. Should I be re-fitting a 100A fuse?
3.The battery doesn’t seem to hold charge. It’s less than a year old and seems to be a robust AGM type (Exide EP450 Dual AGM (Maxxima MAX900DC)) that should cope easily I believe. I’ve been using a Ctek AGM charger overnight - it then performs fine but if the car is used during the day it gets to a point where it won’t turn the car over and needs charging again.
I’m not entirely sure yet if something is draining the battery or the battery is knackered…my next steps were to try disconnecting it for a couple of days and then trying to use it - does this seem sensible?
If it is the battery, it should still be under warranty so I should be able to get a replacement, hopefully.
4. At the risk of starting a huge debate again, I need 4 new tyres. The car has raceline RL-7 alloys, all of which are 17” and 8J et30. It’s currently got 215/40/17 on the front and 245/40/17 on the back. Are these sizes correct for the alloys? The 215 looks a little stretched but I’d imagine any bigger may well rub at the front?
Uniroyal RainSport 3 seem to come recommended - I don’t intend on taking the car out in the wet, and probably not any track days at this stage, is this still a good tyre to go for?
For those sizes the fronts would be 87Y XL tyres and the rears 91Y (not XL). Would these match OK? If you change the size at the rear to 235/45/17 you can have 94Y or 97Y XL.
That’s already looking like a lot of questions so I apologise and I’ll stop there!
Any help is much appreciated, and I look forward to being part of the community going forward
Cheers,
Gareth
Brithunter said:
I would suggest that you have the alternator checke out and replace that fuse. It sounds to me like the regulator in the alternator at least is faulty possibly the alternator itself. If the alternator is over charging then it would blow the fuse I am thinking and seeign as how it's been bypassed it has now cooked that expensive battery. Hopefully somone far more familar with the TVR's will come along and point you in the right direction. But having the alternator tested would be my first thing to do.
Thanks, I'll look into this. I think it can be done at home with a multimeter? I'll have a search. I did test the voltage of the battery with the engine off and running, it was only a quick one and I can't actually remember the results but I know there was a higher voltage when the car was running.
andy43 said:
Nice looking car
1 - idle - the ACT plenum could possibly be leaking air in from worn spindles. Might be worth approaching Tim at ACT - he's very helpful - re a base idle setting, and whether the throttle pot is standard Lucas - this needs to be set right to tell the ecu it's supposed to be idling. Rovergauge or ecu mate are useful tools to see what's what - see the classifieds for the rovergauge lead.
2 - yes, get another 100A fuse - only a couple of quid on ebay or tvr parts (discount for tvrcc members)
3 - battery could be alternator as already said
4 - tyres - I have toyos but the rainsports get a good rep and I'm tempted to try them next. Your raceline wheels are very rare now
Thank you! I'll get in touch with Tim. 1 - idle - the ACT plenum could possibly be leaking air in from worn spindles. Might be worth approaching Tim at ACT - he's very helpful - re a base idle setting, and whether the throttle pot is standard Lucas - this needs to be set right to tell the ecu it's supposed to be idling. Rovergauge or ecu mate are useful tools to see what's what - see the classifieds for the rovergauge lead.
2 - yes, get another 100A fuse - only a couple of quid on ebay or tvr parts (discount for tvrcc members)
3 - battery could be alternator as already said
4 - tyres - I have toyos but the rainsports get a good rep and I'm tempted to try them next. Your raceline wheels are very rare now
Yes I'm quite happy with the alloys! Just the tyres that are a pain ha! I'm pretty set on the rainsports now, just need to finalise the sizes...
s p a c e m a n said:
The best wheels 
Get yourself a 100amp midi fuse and holder if there's nothing there, much more reliable than the old style. I would suggest that either an air leak or your battery problems could be the reason for the weird idle and running issues, I'd sort the battery problems before searching for other reasons.
Get yourself a copy of rovergauge and a lead, helps heaps when trying to find problems
I'll agree with the best wheels! Get yourself a 100amp midi fuse and holder if there's nothing there, much more reliable than the old style. I would suggest that either an air leak or your battery problems could be the reason for the weird idle and running issues, I'd sort the battery problems before searching for other reasons.
Get yourself a copy of rovergauge and a lead, helps heaps when trying to find problems
Will do on the midi fuse, they look good. Worth sticking to 100A? I've seen some people mention 125A before.
Will try and get to the bottom of the battery!
Agreed - will tidy up the cabling as well!
Small update on the battery front - I tested the battery after a charge (12.8V) then disconnected it and left it for 24 hours before testing again (12.8V) so doesn't appear to be an issue there.
I then started the car and tested again (14.2V) so this would tell me the alternator is working?
Whilst my head was deep in the passenger footwell I noticed (amongst a variety of other random cables and connectors) a couple of audio leads plugged into the battery. I know from my young(er) big loud subwoofer days that sometimes amps can drain a battery quickly. So i hunted around and found two amps (still don't know why you'd want to do this in a TVR but anyway) behind each seat, neatly tucked behind the carpet I must say.
As a quick measure I removed the fuse from both amps. I've not had any issues with the battery since, albeit over a short time, and the battery was still reading 12.8V at the end of the day with everything connected.
Solved? Maybe (hopefully!) - I'll keep my eye on it.
Whilst I was in the footwell I checked to make sure I had a connector for a Rovergauge (I did, and am now ordering one) and also decided to take a look at the ECU. This is what I found:
Looks like I do have a Tornado chip, then!
Small update on the battery front - I tested the battery after a charge (12.8V) then disconnected it and left it for 24 hours before testing again (12.8V) so doesn't appear to be an issue there.
I then started the car and tested again (14.2V) so this would tell me the alternator is working?
Whilst my head was deep in the passenger footwell I noticed (amongst a variety of other random cables and connectors) a couple of audio leads plugged into the battery. I know from my young(er) big loud subwoofer days that sometimes amps can drain a battery quickly. So i hunted around and found two amps (still don't know why you'd want to do this in a TVR but anyway) behind each seat, neatly tucked behind the carpet I must say.
As a quick measure I removed the fuse from both amps. I've not had any issues with the battery since, albeit over a short time, and the battery was still reading 12.8V at the end of the day with everything connected.
Solved? Maybe (hopefully!) - I'll keep my eye on it.
Whilst I was in the footwell I checked to make sure I had a connector for a Rovergauge (I did, and am now ordering one) and also decided to take a look at the ECU. This is what I found:
Looks like I do have a Tornado chip, then!
Ok - I'm about to pull the trigger on buying some new tyres...
I'm going for the Uniroyal RainSport 3's
Front size - 215/40/17 87Y XL
Rears...it's between 2. Currently the car has 245/40/17 - the rainsports come in this size but not extra load (XL). But you can go 235/45 to get XL. So here are the two choices:
1. 245/40/17 91Y
2. 235/45/17 97Y XL
What should I go with?
I'm going for the Uniroyal RainSport 3's
Front size - 215/40/17 87Y XL
Rears...it's between 2. Currently the car has 245/40/17 - the rainsports come in this size but not extra load (XL). But you can go 235/45 to get XL. So here are the two choices:
1. 245/40/17 91Y
2. 235/45/17 97Y XL
What should I go with?
Yes, you're right - they have a 94Y in 235/45/17 as well.
Problem is, you can only get XL in 215/40/17 which is what I believe I'd need on the front - narrower won't fit and wider or higher profile will/may rub?
In my head I ideally don't want to be mixing XL and non-XL tyres, but in honesty I probably don't understand matching up tyres well enough to be sure!
Problem is, you can only get XL in 215/40/17 which is what I believe I'd need on the front - narrower won't fit and wider or higher profile will/may rub?
In my head I ideally don't want to be mixing XL and non-XL tyres, but in honesty I probably don't understand matching up tyres well enough to be sure!
s3c chris said:
I think you will find that "Classic Chimaera" is running 215/45x17 on the front of his car with no real problems.
There is a thread on here you might want to read.
It's called "tyres and sidewall heights" I think. My inability with computers means I don't know how to post a link, sorry!
Regards Chris.
Funnily enough I'm just working my way through that thread now - hopefully it'll clear things up and help me make a decision.There is a thread on here you might want to read.
It's called "tyres and sidewall heights" I think. My inability with computers means I don't know how to post a link, sorry!
Regards Chris.
For reference, here's the thread: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
ClassicChimaera said:
Hi, yes it's correct I'm running Rainsport3
215/45/17 87Y
235/45/17 94Y
If your running the correct ride height at around 150f 155-160r you shouldn't get any rubbing.
I'm on 17 x 7.5 rims allround
I'm very happy with my set up, I've raised my ride height at the rear to compensate the larger dia front tyre to keep the castor angle correct but that's about it. It doesn't make a great deal of difference so not necessary anyway.
Thank you!215/45/17 87Y
235/45/17 94Y
If your running the correct ride height at around 150f 155-160r you shouldn't get any rubbing.
I'm on 17 x 7.5 rims allround
I'm very happy with my set up, I've raised my ride height at the rear to compensate the larger dia front tyre to keep the castor angle correct but that's about it. It doesn't make a great deal of difference so not necessary anyway.
I've got 17 x 8 rims all around, with a et30 offset. You probably know more about what that means for me than I do
So I'll go with:
Front: 215/45/17 87Y
Rear: 235/45/17 94Y
Are we all in agreement? Suppose I could try 245/45/17 95Y
So according to that website, I believe going from 215/40/17 to 215/45/17 on the fronts will just make the tyre taller by 21.5mm - about 3.5%.
The rears from 245/40/17 to 235/45/17 will increase the tyre diameter by 15.5mm - about 2.5%.
I don't think I'll have any issues with that?
Out of interest, going up to a 245/45/17 will increase tyre diameter by 24.5mm - a little under 4%, so would probably keep things more similar to how they are now (and in relation to the original tyres, I believe), although it's probably pretty negligible, and I'm still not sure it would actually fit.
I think choosing tyres is the most complicated thing to do on these cars!!
The rears from 245/40/17 to 235/45/17 will increase the tyre diameter by 15.5mm - about 2.5%.
I don't think I'll have any issues with that?
Out of interest, going up to a 245/45/17 will increase tyre diameter by 24.5mm - a little under 4%, so would probably keep things more similar to how they are now (and in relation to the original tyres, I believe), although it's probably pretty negligible, and I'm still not sure it would actually fit.
I think choosing tyres is the most complicated thing to do on these cars!!
Thanks for the comprehensive reply!
I will get measuring tomorrow, I'm quietly confident that the new sizes will be ok given what's already on there, but will double check!
I'm now sold on the 215/45/17 fronts and 235/45/17 rears so will bite the bullet once I've done the measuring.
Looking forward to the grip!
I will get measuring tomorrow, I'm quietly confident that the new sizes will be ok given what's already on there, but will double check!
I'm now sold on the 215/45/17 fronts and 235/45/17 rears so will bite the bullet once I've done the measuring.
Looking forward to the grip!
Had my first visit from the RAC yesterday.
Booting it around some country lanes, pulled in behind some cars to let someone pass, then foot on the clutch and...lost the clutch.
Long story short, leaking slave cylinder and there was nothing left in the master cylinder!
Full credit to the RAC, the guy refilled and bled the system and it was fine to get me home.
Ordering a new slave cylinder today, can't see any leaks or issues with the master cylinder so going to leave that.
Isn't TVR ownership fun
Booting it around some country lanes, pulled in behind some cars to let someone pass, then foot on the clutch and...lost the clutch.
Long story short, leaking slave cylinder and there was nothing left in the master cylinder!
Full credit to the RAC, the guy refilled and bled the system and it was fine to get me home.
Ordering a new slave cylinder today, can't see any leaks or issues with the master cylinder so going to leave that.
Isn't TVR ownership fun
Haha yes, the RAC man did seem a bit baffled when I said he'll need a knife to get to the reservoir!
Ok so I've found another issue...the infamous "hot start" (or whatever else you want to call it - let's just say after a drive, turning the key powers the fuel pump but then nothing at all. About an hour later it works no problem) problem.
First port of call was out of interest, really, to see whether anyone had tried to do anything in the past.
So I took a look in the footwell at the wiring and...wow, what a mess! Are they all like this?
Can anyone spot anything odd/interesting/etc (not necessarily just relating to the issue above) from this photo? I have a few electrical issues with the car (wipers, mirrors, fan blower, courtesy light to name a few...) so any information would be very gratefully received.
Thanks
Ok so I've found another issue...the infamous "hot start" (or whatever else you want to call it - let's just say after a drive, turning the key powers the fuel pump but then nothing at all. About an hour later it works no problem) problem.
First port of call was out of interest, really, to see whether anyone had tried to do anything in the past.
So I took a look in the footwell at the wiring and...wow, what a mess! Are they all like this?
Can anyone spot anything odd/interesting/etc (not necessarily just relating to the issue above) from this photo? I have a few electrical issues with the car (wipers, mirrors, fan blower, courtesy light to name a few...) so any information would be very gratefully received.
Thanks
Steve_D said:
From that picture I'm not spotting anything out of the ordinary (they all look like that Sir).
I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
That's good to hear then, funny how it can be the norm but still!I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
Thanks for the info, sounds like I need to get a relay and wire it in. Is there a diagram available somewhere showing how to fit?
I'll probably also take apart the starter motor and clean/regrease, then. Sounds like a bit of heat insulation/shield may help also?
Gareth
Penelope Stopit said:
This is taken from an earlier topic I started and works a treat
The below circuit achieves 3 objectives and is very simple yet so effective
1 - Car can't possibly be cranked when engine is running, this could save a starter pinion or two
2 - Solves any problems caused by volt drops from ignition switch to starter motor solenoid, more reliable crank voltage
3 - Increases the Alternators Rotor excitation during cranking and this lowers the Alternator cut-in speed
You can wire this into your vehicle as is or wire it through the immobiliser
if you wish to wire it through the immobiliser you will only need to remove the crank wire from the starter motor and extend it back to the relay used in my diagram, it is your choice where you fit the relay
Fantastic, thank you very much. I shall get this sorted and report back.The below circuit achieves 3 objectives and is very simple yet so effective
1 - Car can't possibly be cranked when engine is running, this could save a starter pinion or two
2 - Solves any problems caused by volt drops from ignition switch to starter motor solenoid, more reliable crank voltage
3 - Increases the Alternators Rotor excitation during cranking and this lowers the Alternator cut-in speed
You can wire this into your vehicle as is or wire it through the immobiliser
if you wish to wire it through the immobiliser you will only need to remove the crank wire from the starter motor and extend it back to the relay used in my diagram, it is your choice where you fit the relay
shake n bake said:
Hard to tell from the picture but the fuel pump relay in the foreground of the picture appears to be corroded on the casing?
I'll check it next time I stick my head down there!Hedgehopper said:
When you straighten those wires out it will look something like this...with any luck!
Haha, thanks - fingers crossed! I'll compare mine to that and highlight any discrepancies. GR_TVR said:
Steve_D said:
From that picture I'm not spotting anything out of the ordinary (they all look like that Sir).
I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
That's good to hear then, funny how it can be the norm but still!I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
Thanks for the info, sounds like I need to get a relay and wire it in. Is there a diagram available somewhere showing how to fit?
I'll probably also take apart the starter motor and clean/regrease, then. Sounds like a bit of heat insulation/shield may help also?
Gareth
I then also wrapped the unit in heat wrap, before covering the side exposed to the engine/manifolds with some sheet aluminium.
I'm pleased to say I haven't had any issues since - I can pop to the shops and the petrol station without having to take an hour long walk!
I'll still do the wiring upgrade, but happy that this helped things.
Now my car is running and idling much better, I thought I'd post a rovergauge screenshot so those more in the know can check everything looks alright.
The only criticism I really have of the way it runs is when you do stop it takes a good 5 seconds or so for the revs to drop into idle.
The only criticism I really have of the way it runs is when you do stop it takes a good 5 seconds or so for the revs to drop into idle.
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