SC Power conversions
Discussion
Ive read some threads regarding Turbocharging vs Supercharging and im none the wiser, there never seems to be an outcome!
Has anyone had the Sc power kit fitted and can give some feedback on it?
Im considering going from my Chim 400 to a 500 but my car is pretty much sorted, im happy with it, and it has a solid chassis.
The debate will rage on forever about buying a more powerful car but i may be back to square one and have to worry about the chassis amongst other things.
Im interested in the SC route as id like to up the power slightly but keep the driveability as it is, im not interested in huge gains and would be happy with around 300 Bhp.
I have a budget of roughly £5k to do the mods on mine or would have £15k to try to get a 500 which may not be enough.
This may seem like madness to some but im very happy with the car but would just like to wake it up a bit!
The 500 appeals but i understand it can be a rough drive at low speeds, most of my driving is on everyday roads.
Any feedback is much appreciated.
Has anyone had the Sc power kit fitted and can give some feedback on it?
Im considering going from my Chim 400 to a 500 but my car is pretty much sorted, im happy with it, and it has a solid chassis.
The debate will rage on forever about buying a more powerful car but i may be back to square one and have to worry about the chassis amongst other things.
Im interested in the SC route as id like to up the power slightly but keep the driveability as it is, im not interested in huge gains and would be happy with around 300 Bhp.
I have a budget of roughly £5k to do the mods on mine or would have £15k to try to get a 500 which may not be enough.
This may seem like madness to some but im very happy with the car but would just like to wake it up a bit!
The 500 appeals but i understand it can be a rough drive at low speeds, most of my driving is on everyday roads.
Any feedback is much appreciated.
Supercharger kit with intercooler is £4500.
Just as a comparison
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/l...
Now my head is spinning!
Thanks for all the input so far.
Just as a comparison
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/l...
Now my head is spinning!
Thanks for all the input so far.
QBee said:
I come to South Wales regularly, normally in the daily driver. If we do decide to come in the TVR I will let you know, otherwise you will have to come to me.
If you can organise it, drive your own car, a turbo and an SC all in the same day, so as to make an informed comparison.
I am not interested in pushing you the turbo route - it suits my requirements and is mainly there to give me more torque and acceleration on track. It has nothing to do with road driving for me. It has to be your choice - it's your car and bank balance.
For the record, my turbo, installed by Eann Whalley, with variable wastegate and electronic boost control, oil cooler and intercooler, cost £3,700 ish. My Emerald ECU, including loom, wide band lambda, and Bosch Blue Knight injectors, fully mapped by Jools, cost around £3,000. Mine is a belt and braces installation, all done by experts, as I fully plan to track drive the car (next Wednesday!) and hence be generating lots of heat and up to 150 mph speeds.
Thanks for the offer.If you can organise it, drive your own car, a turbo and an SC all in the same day, so as to make an informed comparison.
I am not interested in pushing you the turbo route - it suits my requirements and is mainly there to give me more torque and acceleration on track. It has nothing to do with road driving for me. It has to be your choice - it's your car and bank balance.
For the record, my turbo, installed by Eann Whalley, with variable wastegate and electronic boost control, oil cooler and intercooler, cost £3,700 ish. My Emerald ECU, including loom, wide band lambda, and Bosch Blue Knight injectors, fully mapped by Jools, cost around £3,000. Mine is a belt and braces installation, all done by experts, as I fully plan to track drive the car (next Wednesday!) and hence be generating lots of heat and up to 150 mph speeds.
My aim isnt outright horsepower, just to get to the 500 performance but with good low speed manners.I dont track the car at all.
My last car was a Cobra replica with 280 Bhp at the flywheel, i felt that this was just about right to enjoy and not get into too much trouble!
Engineer1949 said:
not sure where you are based but if its anywhere near basingstoke my son nick would be glad to give you a taste of 4.0ltr sc fun in the orange chim i built some four years ago it is now back to a very road focused machine and a joy to drive.
john
Im a bit too far away in South Wales but thanks for the offer.john
Im leaning toward the SC route as id like to keep the exhaust note exactly as it is and i feel the 400 engine is well suited to the conversion and my driving style.
I see positives in all of the options available its just the FI route fascinates me the most!
motul1974 said:
I've seen the Turbo Kit prices at on Eann Whalley site, but I can't seem to find a kit price for the SC conversions?? - I'm only curios, so don't wish to waste any of the suppliers times by contacting them, but I'm curious as to cost comparison.
For the 400 engine its £4500 for the complete kit including intercooler, its designed to run on the existing 14cux system.Thats for a diy install.
Engineer1949 said:
sorry for the slight hijack but i will be doing a sc blower job on a 4.0ltr starting next week we are intercooling but running the 14cux with the upgraded chip supplied from sc will have it on the rollers at emerald to check everything out so may be of interest to folk.
john
Be good to hear how it runs, be nice if you report back as it may sway my decision in its favour.john
macdeb said:
Ah, well, drove supercharged demonstrator Chimaera and honestly it did nothing for me. (I'm sure it suits some, just not me).
Drove Turbo, Phuck me, I'll have some of that!
SC, limited tuning wise (sure they are good for some)
TC, infinitely adjustable to suit your requirements.
really tried hard to stay off this topic
no vested interest here either
Out of interest what didnt do it for you?Drove Turbo, Phuck me, I'll have some of that!
SC, limited tuning wise (sure they are good for some)
TC, infinitely adjustable to suit your requirements.
really tried hard to stay off this topic
no vested interest here either
Was it purely the lack of shove in the back and not enough grunt?
coco79 said:
I would be interested to know what 'drive in drive out' costs are SC vs Turbo, if anyone could share?
Its £5500 for the turbo kit, im not sure on the s/c kit as i dont see anyone offering this service. Im guessing it would be more expensive though if you factor in labour and new engine management.coco79 said:
I've been following this thread with interest, my head is telling me 'turbo' given the fact that there are well known specialists to supply and fit.. my concern is whether it would 'mute' the V8 growl. I can't seem to find any details of companies that supply and fit a supercharger..I have to say I quite like the supercharger sound though..
Anyone handy with the spanners could fit the s/c kit, it's that straightforward.Edited by coco79 on Tuesday 5th September 11:04
It would benefit you if you had aftermarket engine management first but I'm told it will happily run on the existing set up.
DonkeyApple said:
Very interesting thread.
I've spent the last few years pondering what to install in a '72 Rangie to give it the same overtaking ability as my previous 5.7 Overfinch.
The target is pretty much 330x330.
The costs seem to work out pretty much in the same ball park whether I go for the turbo, the SC Power or a 5L V8D. And they all have their merits.
I've discounted the LS route as I really wanted to keep a RV8 in the collection having always had at least one since I was 21. I just like the little old pushrod lumps.
In addition I have a criteria that is probably notably at odds to TVR requirements, I don't want the extra power below 2k rpm. I want the power for over taking but don't want to be running 10 mpg when just pottering. My Overfinch pottered around at 4.5mpg and while it was fun I see no upside in returning to that.
That ruled out traditional SC solutions and big CC NA. I was left with the turbo option but needing to have bespoke manifolds made. Then I read up about the Rotrex and decided that this would actually give me what I want.
It won't be a wear on the drivetrain in general use and will give a really good boost above 2k to about 5k (the car is an auto!). As such I don't have to worry about beefing up the drivetrain beyond high torque parts that are readily available. I've had a Disco diesel turbo radiator re-cored for better cooling so that gives the intercooler. I've refurbed a 4.0 and it's just in completely standard Rover form. Tuning is going to be via Mark Adams and an Omex piggyback as a cost effective way to get it up and running.
Sounds like a sensible plan if the engine is a fresh rebuild.I've spent the last few years pondering what to install in a '72 Rangie to give it the same overtaking ability as my previous 5.7 Overfinch.
The target is pretty much 330x330.
The costs seem to work out pretty much in the same ball park whether I go for the turbo, the SC Power or a 5L V8D. And they all have their merits.
I've discounted the LS route as I really wanted to keep a RV8 in the collection having always had at least one since I was 21. I just like the little old pushrod lumps.
In addition I have a criteria that is probably notably at odds to TVR requirements, I don't want the extra power below 2k rpm. I want the power for over taking but don't want to be running 10 mpg when just pottering. My Overfinch pottered around at 4.5mpg and while it was fun I see no upside in returning to that.
That ruled out traditional SC solutions and big CC NA. I was left with the turbo option but needing to have bespoke manifolds made. Then I read up about the Rotrex and decided that this would actually give me what I want.
It won't be a wear on the drivetrain in general use and will give a really good boost above 2k to about 5k (the car is an auto!). As such I don't have to worry about beefing up the drivetrain beyond high torque parts that are readily available. I've had a Disco diesel turbo radiator re-cored for better cooling so that gives the intercooler. I've refurbed a 4.0 and it's just in completely standard Rover form. Tuning is going to be via Mark Adams and an Omex piggyback as a cost effective way to get it up and running.
Im still 50/50 at the moment.
Just bolt on the s/c kit to a 79k mile engine or rebuild my own engine to 4.6 spec with change for nice heads, aftermarket management, and maybe even a suspension refresh if im careful.
5k is a lot to spend and id rather only do it once.
ChimpOnGas said:
I can't see how adding forced induction to a 79k mile RV8 engine is going to do anything other than put you on very borrowed time.
When things go bad you're going to be in for a engine rebuild, so that means spending £5 - £6k on the SC-Power kit just to bring you rapidly to the point of spending a similar sum on an engine rebuild, So unless you've got £12k in the kitty I'd be inclined to do the sensible thing and reverse the process, ie start with that nice 300hp V8 Developments 4.6 with decent heads.
Enjoy the 300hp V8D engine or perhaps a little less with a lower compression build designed specifically for your future plans to go forced induction, then when funds permit add some boost. The engine will be built for it and will still be nice and fresh, doing things this way ensures you'll enjoy unbroken service while spreading the costs.
Rather than boosting your way into unplanned spend that may well put you out of the game while you save up for that engine rebuild, you'll be starting the forced induction journey with the engine you'll inevitably need to build anyway.
Planning and common sense aren't as exciting as the prospect of adding forced induction to your well used lump and having a much faster TVR within weeks, but there's not a blower in the world I've ever seen improves engine longevity and when you add one to a higher mileage engine that was never designed for FI, well lets just say "Good Luck".
Im awaiting a reply from V8D regarding a drive in drive out 4.6 or 5.0 conversion.When things go bad you're going to be in for a engine rebuild, so that means spending £5 - £6k on the SC-Power kit just to bring you rapidly to the point of spending a similar sum on an engine rebuild, So unless you've got £12k in the kitty I'd be inclined to do the sensible thing and reverse the process, ie start with that nice 300hp V8 Developments 4.6 with decent heads.
Enjoy the 300hp V8D engine or perhaps a little less with a lower compression build designed specifically for your future plans to go forced induction, then when funds permit add some boost. The engine will be built for it and will still be nice and fresh, doing things this way ensures you'll enjoy unbroken service while spreading the costs.
Rather than boosting your way into unplanned spend that may well put you out of the game while you save up for that engine rebuild, you'll be starting the forced induction journey with the engine you'll inevitably need to build anyway.
Planning and common sense aren't as exciting as the prospect of adding forced induction to your well used lump and having a much faster TVR within weeks, but there's not a blower in the world I've ever seen improves engine longevity and when you add one to a higher mileage engine that was never designed for FI, well lets just say "Good Luck".
Boosted LS1 said:
It is sensible to start with a good engine and so long as it's not worn it should be fine. Turbo boost won't cause an increase in mechanical risk unless you over rev. Boost is more about heat management and especially about detonation avoidance. If your engine's a 3.5 or a 3.9 then a switch to a later engine would be a benefit but only because the designs better and the pistons are stronger.
I'd compression test your engine and see if the readings are healthy.
I would hope a 79k mile engine would show very little signs of wear on the bottom end, especially if it's been well serviced with modern lubricants.I'd compression test your engine and see if the readings are healthy.
I know the cam could be a weak link but again if the engine sounds healthy and has good compression readings is there really much else you can do?
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff