MAF - Running issues?
Discussion
Hi all,
With thanks to the site and the great members my previous issue of charging and cause for breaking down has cured.
But, alas, I still have a running problem, the car struggles to rev over 2k, I initially thought this was part of my first problem but it seem not.
Trying to identify the problem I have disconnected the MAF and driven the car around the block and then re connected and done the same, there is not a lot of difference. Is this what you would expect or does it point to a faulty MAF.
I had a faulty MAF on an Audi TT and It ran better without the faulty MAF connected.
Any advice gratefully received.
Cheers
Frank
With thanks to the site and the great members my previous issue of charging and cause for breaking down has cured.
But, alas, I still have a running problem, the car struggles to rev over 2k, I initially thought this was part of my first problem but it seem not.
Trying to identify the problem I have disconnected the MAF and driven the car around the block and then re connected and done the same, there is not a lot of difference. Is this what you would expect or does it point to a faulty MAF.
I had a faulty MAF on an Audi TT and It ran better without the faulty MAF connected.
Any advice gratefully received.
Cheers
Frank
Hi,
What a great bit of kit the rovergauge is!
The car seems to be running ok again, I think taking the MAF sensor connector on and off has made a better connection. The faults codes showing where 12, 18 & 19, AFM and 2 throttle pot, Hi and Low. The Air flow is 34-35% so seems like the fault has gone.
I have cleared the codes and been out for a spin, so far so good, will go for a longer run at the weekend and see if any of the fault codes re-appear.
Thanks for your help.
Frank
What a great bit of kit the rovergauge is!
The car seems to be running ok again, I think taking the MAF sensor connector on and off has made a better connection. The faults codes showing where 12, 18 & 19, AFM and 2 throttle pot, Hi and Low. The Air flow is 34-35% so seems like the fault has gone.
I have cleared the codes and been out for a spin, so far so good, will go for a longer run at the weekend and see if any of the fault codes re-appear.
Thanks for your help.
Frank
Here we go again!
Took the car out Saturday morning, all seemed good, 5 Miles up the road the misfire issue starts again. I managed to limp it home and parked up.
I went to read the fault codes on the Rovergauge I had a starting issue, the engine carried on cranking, even with the key removed, I managed to disconnect the battery to stop this. I then re connected the battery and tried to start the car again, nothing! pump priming and ignition lights but wont crank. Looking under the bonnet it seems that I have burnt out the "hot start kit" wiring, I am guessing this was due to a sticking relay causing the starter to continue to crank, and the no cranking issue due to the original hot starting issue as the car started ok this morning. Does that sound right?
Anyhow, of course disconnecting the battery cleared any fault codes so no idea what codes would have been there after getting home. This morning I have move the car and it idles ok but will not rev over 2K again. I ran it up to temperature and used the Rovergauge again.
Its was showing fault - Resister tune out of range
This is the first time I have seen this code, and after clearing has not come back while car is idling.
All Rovergauge readings seem ok apart from the lambda fuel trim which shows on longterm, odd, -26% even, -91%. should these be so far apart? and would this be due to or the cause of the error code?
As always I would really appreciate any advice.
Many thanks
Kind regards
Frank
Took the car out Saturday morning, all seemed good, 5 Miles up the road the misfire issue starts again. I managed to limp it home and parked up.
I went to read the fault codes on the Rovergauge I had a starting issue, the engine carried on cranking, even with the key removed, I managed to disconnect the battery to stop this. I then re connected the battery and tried to start the car again, nothing! pump priming and ignition lights but wont crank. Looking under the bonnet it seems that I have burnt out the "hot start kit" wiring, I am guessing this was due to a sticking relay causing the starter to continue to crank, and the no cranking issue due to the original hot starting issue as the car started ok this morning. Does that sound right?
Anyhow, of course disconnecting the battery cleared any fault codes so no idea what codes would have been there after getting home. This morning I have move the car and it idles ok but will not rev over 2K again. I ran it up to temperature and used the Rovergauge again.
Its was showing fault - Resister tune out of range
This is the first time I have seen this code, and after clearing has not come back while car is idling.
All Rovergauge readings seem ok apart from the lambda fuel trim which shows on longterm, odd, -26% even, -91%. should these be so far apart? and would this be due to or the cause of the error code?
As always I would really appreciate any advice.
Many thanks
Kind regards
Frank
Hi.
A shot in the dark, started the car, still misfireing at 2k. Took it for a run and then checked the fault codes, none!
Whilst removing the fried hot start wiring I noticed some insulation tape flapping about. This was holding an inline lucas rd953066 resistor, I removed it, car won't start, replace it and it starts.
Having removed it and put it back a couple of times, it's either my imagination or the problem is now at 3k.
Am I grasping at straws or could this little fella be the problem.
If so, where can I get one, Googled it and can't find a stockist.
I WILL get to the bottom of this!
Cheers
Frank
Should have added, tested the tps on a hot engine bay and all good, 7% - 96% with no glitches.
A shot in the dark, started the car, still misfireing at 2k. Took it for a run and then checked the fault codes, none!
Whilst removing the fried hot start wiring I noticed some insulation tape flapping about. This was holding an inline lucas rd953066 resistor, I removed it, car won't start, replace it and it starts.
Having removed it and put it back a couple of times, it's either my imagination or the problem is now at 3k.
Am I grasping at straws or could this little fella be the problem.
If so, where can I get one, Googled it and can't find a stockist.
I WILL get to the bottom of this!
Cheers
Frank
Should have added, tested the tps on a hot engine bay and all good, 7% - 96% with no glitches.
Edited by Franky boy on Tuesday 29th August 17:24
Hi,
Loosing the will!
I have now changed plugs, leads, coil, rotor arm. Removed plug extenders, all good on rovergauge and still badly missing at 2k.
The plugs I removed where really sooty, so running rich, all of them the same.
I have tried removing the lead from each plug to see if I actually have a mis fire at idle but can't really tell, and it gets so hot it becomes painfull! Is there another way of checking?
I'm just wondering what the next step is, ignition module?, do the ecu's have a history of failing?
Would a faulty lambda cause over fueling and a missfire? In my mind no but open to other opinions.
As always, help, advice, thoughts and opinion gratefully recieved.
Frank
Loosing the will!
I have now changed plugs, leads, coil, rotor arm. Removed plug extenders, all good on rovergauge and still badly missing at 2k.
The plugs I removed where really sooty, so running rich, all of them the same.
I have tried removing the lead from each plug to see if I actually have a mis fire at idle but can't really tell, and it gets so hot it becomes painfull! Is there another way of checking?
I'm just wondering what the next step is, ignition module?, do the ecu's have a history of failing?
Would a faulty lambda cause over fueling and a missfire? In my mind no but open to other opinions.
As always, help, advice, thoughts and opinion gratefully recieved.
Frank
Pass the Valium!
Ok, as said last visit, I have changed a load of bits, still misfiring, read the comments here and go to the garage to carry out the manifold heat checks as advised.
Now the car cranks, a good speed as always, but wont start. Fuel pump priming so checked for spark.
No spark at No1 plug, so pull coil lead from distributer cap, no spark here either!
Could this be the final straw.
Cheers
Frank
Had a coffee, and went back to the garage, no spark from distributer end of coil HT lead, check and 12v at coil with ignition on, so not ignition module?
Disconnected battery and changed the coil back to the old one, and it started! knackered new coil or ECU re set?
Anyway, idling nicely, doesn't seem to be missing at idle, went for a rev and hey presto, it revs cleanly!
Let it idle up to temperature, rev it, cough splutter, cut out, never done that before.
Re start, idles ok, connected rovergauge just in case, and now revs cleanly again. let it idle and a few revs every now and again, all seems good, fan cutting in and out ok, rover gauge now showing -100% on both lambdas, that's also new.
Read in Marks post about sticking bob weights, disconnected the vac pipe distributer to plenum no difference at idle, now for my next question. the vac pipe in question has a one-way valve, as I understand it, the plenum provides negative pressure when revving (vacuum) and this helps advance the timing, by "sucking" through the pipe. now if I blow down this pipe from the plenum end, it blows towards distributer, but not the other way round, although possibly not part of the problem, is this the wrong way round?
On idle or when revving the engine (no load) I can not feel any suction at distributer end of pipe.
Getting close to meltdown, I mean pub time!
Cheers
Frank
Ok, as said last visit, I have changed a load of bits, still misfiring, read the comments here and go to the garage to carry out the manifold heat checks as advised.
Now the car cranks, a good speed as always, but wont start. Fuel pump priming so checked for spark.
No spark at No1 plug, so pull coil lead from distributer cap, no spark here either!
Could this be the final straw.
Cheers
Frank
Had a coffee, and went back to the garage, no spark from distributer end of coil HT lead, check and 12v at coil with ignition on, so not ignition module?
Disconnected battery and changed the coil back to the old one, and it started! knackered new coil or ECU re set?
Anyway, idling nicely, doesn't seem to be missing at idle, went for a rev and hey presto, it revs cleanly!
Let it idle up to temperature, rev it, cough splutter, cut out, never done that before.
Re start, idles ok, connected rovergauge just in case, and now revs cleanly again. let it idle and a few revs every now and again, all seems good, fan cutting in and out ok, rover gauge now showing -100% on both lambdas, that's also new.
Read in Marks post about sticking bob weights, disconnected the vac pipe distributer to plenum no difference at idle, now for my next question. the vac pipe in question has a one-way valve, as I understand it, the plenum provides negative pressure when revving (vacuum) and this helps advance the timing, by "sucking" through the pipe. now if I blow down this pipe from the plenum end, it blows towards distributer, but not the other way round, although possibly not part of the problem, is this the wrong way round?
On idle or when revving the engine (no load) I can not feel any suction at distributer end of pipe.
Getting close to meltdown, I mean pub time!
Cheers
Frank
Edited by Franky boy on Sunday 3rd September 15:13
Thanks for the help, borrowed a temp gun and located a loose plug lead.
I've now changed or checked so many things I can't actually remember the order but the car started to behave itself and start running OK, drove to a wedding with the gf on sat, parked up, Sunday morning different story.
Now the car will not start at all, the AA membership is certainly paying for itself.
The current situation is, live at coil, but no spark, live at injectors but not switching/firing. Cranking over healthily.
The AA chap thinks it could be a distributer based problem.
I'm not having much luck with the car at the moment!
Your thoughts and comments welcomed.
Cheers
Frank
I've now changed or checked so many things I can't actually remember the order but the car started to behave itself and start running OK, drove to a wedding with the gf on sat, parked up, Sunday morning different story.
Now the car will not start at all, the AA membership is certainly paying for itself.
The current situation is, live at coil, but no spark, live at injectors but not switching/firing. Cranking over healthily.
The AA chap thinks it could be a distributer based problem.
I'm not having much luck with the car at the moment!
Your thoughts and comments welcomed.
Cheers
Frank
Hi, thanks for the info.
Does the distributor/ignition module control the switching of the injectors, the AA guy used a tester and told me that they weren't switching but had power.
Having spent so long trying, without success, to get the car running nicely, would now be the time to say enoughs enough and go aftermarket ECU?
I have been looking at Megasquirt, I see there are a few places that provide a complete kit, I am more than capable of installing one. Would it make the car nicer to drive and more reliable? I am happy to spend the cash if it is beneficial and doesn't de-value the car.
Just a thought.
Cheers
Frank
Does the distributor/ignition module control the switching of the injectors, the AA guy used a tester and told me that they weren't switching but had power.
Having spent so long trying, without success, to get the car running nicely, would now be the time to say enoughs enough and go aftermarket ECU?
I have been looking at Megasquirt, I see there are a few places that provide a complete kit, I am more than capable of installing one. Would it make the car nicer to drive and more reliable? I am happy to spend the cash if it is beneficial and doesn't de-value the car.
Just a thought.
Cheers
Frank
Hi, thanks for the offer, if I'm still in the same situation I might take you up on it, although think that megasaquirt might be the best option.
ExtraEFI is the company I saw the kit from, need to find out if it has a base map included and how/what to do with the distributor as I'm pre serp and I understand this runs the oil pump.
Will call them tomorrow
ExtraEFI is the company I saw the kit from, need to find out if it has a base map included and how/what to do with the distributor as I'm pre serp and I understand this runs the oil pump.
Will call them tomorrow
Hi Mark,thanks for the info.
Am I right to assume that there will still be live leaving the amp going to tacho feed/ ecu even if amp is stuffed.
Have tried starting with fuel pump permantly on using RG made no difference.
Would a multi meter pick up pulses if amp ok?
Which ever way I go it would be good to get to the bottom of it and besides, what an education, learning loads.
Cheers
Frank
Am I right to assume that there will still be live leaving the amp going to tacho feed/ ecu even if amp is stuffed.
Have tried starting with fuel pump permantly on using RG made no difference.
Would a multi meter pick up pulses if amp ok?
Which ever way I go it would be good to get to the bottom of it and besides, what an education, learning loads.
Cheers
Frank
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